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hunting in trash

Snow is finally gone Sube. Been out a few times and had nice success. Actually hunted a spot where a guy with a 3030 had hunted. Pulled a nice 1938 Walker out of some trash he missed. What I am really excited about is that I just obtained permission to hunt the original settlement of my town. Took lots of research to find the exact spot, but was worth it. Will let you know how it pans out.
 
Sounds like a great place, finding about these places sure pays off .I have another fairgrounds I been looking at started in 1867 was used 10 years then moved again and used for 15 years then moved again and been used to this day. Got the first one peg for location still working on the second one I smell old coins . sube
 
Great info-much appreciated. I will definitely check it out. Most of the time I hunt without target trace as I feel it's just more work the detector has to do. Now I will have to re-evaluate this. I also have experimented with the saltwater on for some land hunting, but haven't really noticed an improvement in sensitivity. Probably just my area. Thanks a ton for sharing your info.
 
Hi Guys,

Is their any way in modern trash to seperate a good target and a aluminium screw cap with the same vdi value with the the ctx.


Regards Below2doe.
 
below2doe no there is not but a aluminum screw cap is light and won't sink as far as a coin will. It is a round item you will just have to dig the #s are the same as coin #s . Round is very hard to get a bad reading but aluminum scraps are easier to get rid of by xing both ways .
 
By the time I learn all that I am capable of learning on the 3030 I will be to old to swing anything. I say that because I think the 3030 is a fantastic machine and like Gatekeeper said, you keep on finding something new.
 
Sube, can you be helpful to explain when hunting in gone huntings mode ,in ferrus /coin ,with Target trace on . Also using disc. On bottom half ,I will get a good hi tone ,with good vid number ,but also the iron grunt ,with the cursor at bottom right ,and one in the coin range. Now thinking that I may have a good Target next to iron ,I dig it ,and only find old roofing nail ,and or piece of nail . My question would be ,how do you read the Target trace to tell me its only iron and not a coin with it. ? I know solid red inside the curser means definatly a coin ,but what if I still get that hi chirp along with the iron grunt ? What else can I look for with the t trace ,to tell me its only iron. Now I also double check with open screen ,can hear more of iron ,but still gets that hi chirp with good vid # . Any info on how to tell that its just iron ,and not a possible good target along next too it will be grateful....
 
Anytime I get a high chirp it's usually a nail false which is a chirp , a coin has a longer and smoother sound to it . Also look at the conduct #s if there 40 to 41 this is where falses happen for me . So sweep the good sound and pinpoint it by eye on the ground then pinpoint it dose it stay where the good sound is coming from if so dig if not don't dig . As far as target trace look for the trace to stay on the 12 line that means when you scan it says 12.43 to 12.36 as you go back and forth over it , The 12.36 is what the coil is seeing with the trailing edge or leading edge and the 12.43 is what it's seeing when going over the center this being a dime signal .Falses will not change they will read 12.40 to 12.41 whatever part of the coil is seeing it because the nail or iron is giving the chirp on a (concentrated point) of the iron or nail point. Also falses will not improve going over it several times like say from 12.40 to 12.44 only a coin will get better #s being higher than the original hit falses stay at 12.40 to 12.41 and will not go lower either.:thumbup: sube
 
So,if the trace is showing lines pointing downward ,or have blotchey spots below the 12 line , with your experience ,it is basicly just iron ?? And if their is a coin next to iron ,will it still produce a solid red trace inside the curser ? I did notice when I got a chirp turning 90 degrees it would jump on the Fe # to 15 and back to 12. I figured the iron was just trying to read along with the coin ..
 
Blotchy spots all over the screen are iron with many sharp points on them rusted bottle caps that are half there or square iron with 4 points on them look like a meteorite spray on the screen . No it will not be a solid red cursor because the iron is downgrading the signal . The most important thing to remember is it has to stay on the 12 line and travels horizontally across it or close to it not up and down . As far as target trace displaying up and down behavior it all depends how you hit the iron target and what angle . What you need to do that will give you more information than I can is to lay different iron objects with coins and sweep from different angles to see what you get . Also where do your falses hit on the #s . This will tell you a lot as to what your looking at . The 6 inch coil is super easy to use in iron compared to the stock coil to separate the good from the bad . One other point is when you get a false sweep it 3 different ways and note what its telling you then dig it after 5 or 6 of these you will know what a false is . :thumbup:.sube
 
What I think is fun is when there is a zinc penny, a dime, and a quarter all in the same hole. Target trace is just a big red blob on the 12 line from 36 to 47. I have thought this to be an crunched up aluminum can originally. However, I slow down reeeeal slow and scan over the targets. The CTX will pick out each one by listening to the audio. Its amazing:clapping: Also when pinpointing it will pick out each coin.
 
Do you use the Target trace pinpoint to build the trace? I only have around 30 hours on the ctx ,coming from an at pro so I'm trying still to make heads or tails with this machine..
 
I've been hunting with my CTX now since the first part of November, so almost 6 months, coming from my first detector, an AT Pro. I have about 150 hours on my CTX now, and after some initial experimentation, and researching, I started hunting mostly in Ground Coin mode because our soil here in the NW is pretty highly mineralized. GC gives me the best target ID info. However during trial and error experimentation, scanning surface coins in my yard, and placing various ferrous items near a silver quarter, in GC mode the coil totally nulls out and I got nothing at all with a piece of iron about 2x2 1/2 inchs within 2 to 3 inches of the silver quarter. So I started experimenting more with Ferrous Coin mode. In ferrous coin I started experiencing exactly what Sube originally posted about. But in Ferrous Coin I can see two targets, while if hunting in Ground Coin I do not. I hunt quite a bit with discrimination, but also switch around to open screen a lot to help verify what I'm seeing. While hunting in FC my CTX so often shows a target in the lower right hand corner, the iron range, and another target in the mid/upper right corner in the 12:37 to 12:42 range, almost like it thinks there is always a penny underneath it while scanning. Ive been seeing this alot with the 17 inch coil too. My quest since buying this machine is to learn how to find coins mixed in with iron like so many here seem quite able and capable of doing, but my experience has been mainly digging a lot of bent nails. I have had a few finds of coins that had nails in the mix and thought I was on to something, however that has been the fluke more than the rule for me. I just can't seem to master this machine, it seems the more I learn the less I know hahahah! I love the machine though, so far I've found 13 silver coins since January of this year. They are not easy to come by here in NW Oregon! Deepest dime was at a true 9 inches and it had iron on both sides of it, I must of scanned that signal for 10 minutes because I thought it was just my normal infrequent but repetative good signal mixed in with iron signals. I was in ground coin for that one however and was more than a little surprised when out popped a 1958 rosie. It seems 9 times out of 10 when I get a repeatable, but not as frequent good target ID especially in silver range that it is just plain old iron or a nail fooling me and its become frustrating trying to learn to tell the difference but I am determined to master this thing. I'm at a loss for what to do or try at this point. I've experimented with my programs, mainly use a modified coin program in which I have lowered the amount of discrimination and lowered the ferrous line to 24. I also use another program set up in Ferrous Coin and switch between the two to help me better determine target vs iron in ground, and both programs have open screen to flip to. I've began hunting more and more with an open screen and I hunt about 50/50 now with auto +3, and manual up to around 27 max with saltwater on to help tame down the jitters as with my soil here the machine gets pretty unstable with manual settings so usually wind up falling back to auto mode.

I appreciate all the time everyone has taken posting so much great information about this detector and how to use it, I've been working hard at putting the information to good use, but still struggle to find silver, and am afraid that I am walking over good silver all the time and not hearing it because ground coin won't pick it up if there is iron near it, and Ferrous coin seems to false alot and always seems to indicate a 12:37 or so with iron just about all the time I'm scanning so it gets to the point that I just give up on it and go back to GC. I hope eventually I'll figure out what I'm doing with my detector, lord knows I've been putting in the hours on it! Thanks for all the info guys! HH
 
If you go to my vid you will notice that the screw which is almost the same size as the dime surface area wise is border line to almost masking the dime out. Look at the half it is much larger surface area than the screw. Therefor the trace is showing a lot of red almost a positive hit looking at the dime and Indian you see very little red because of the size of the screw , smaller pieces of iron will allow more red in trace confirming it's a coin with iron .As to ferrous coin mode showing 12.37 to12.41 all the time yes it does it on my machine as well but what your looking for is red in the icon the more red the better the chance of a coin with iron okay. Now when you go to pinpoint target trace and sweep over the target many times you will see the coin icon build and the iron icon will build in the lower right corner. If you remove the coin only the iron icon will build okay. So a coin and iron will both build this only happens in pinpoint trace follow. It is a lot easier to go to pinpoint trace to check targets out because they build and leave it on the screen for you to see instead of refreshing all the time in normal hunting mode. When you do find a hit like this 90 degree it and see if it sings first before going to target trace pinpoint . And yes a smaller coil works much better for this because you are hunting trash and there are a lot of signals there to contend with . If you have any ?s just ask I will try to help you out . I am still working on the next vid but with work its going to take some more time . sube
 
What a fantastic thread. I've learned so much from you folks. Wow. Every time I go out, I just get to know this machine better and better, and find more and more. :)
 
Thank you Sube! I'll go back and watch all your videos again, you are a huge help and I sure appreciate you sharing your experience!
 
http://youtu.be/FQWz2lRCwMc Okay I'm going to show you why you should overlap your coil sweeps in dense trash . This coin can be missed if you are moving your coil any farther than 1 inch at a time ahead of you . Sweep speed is slow to give the detector time to analyze the targets ,faster speeds will miss this coin do to blending of the targets . So basically your hunting with the leading edge of the coil looking for a high tone , since it's a double d coil it has a knife like field from the front to the back . But when you go to pinpoint a coin in trash , center it ,you will be pulled to the biggest signal there which is the bottle cap or other iron objects . Notice how clean the coin hits using the leading edge of the coil as you move forward the signal starts to degrade because of the bottle cap same thing when you pinpoint it pulls you to the cap and starts to degrade the coin hit . This works very well with large iron objects by going around them and working your way to them looking for a high tone . Pinpoint trace in sizing let's you see a coin right up next to it; To get a accurate pinpoint use the leading edge of the coil when you get the first sign of a trace on screen pinpoint with the leading edge of the coil , it well be centered in the front of the coil this is where you want to dig . This is how you want to hunt a very trashy spot places that don't have a lot of trash are okay to let you overlap half the coils diameter . But if you have a spot that has given you great coins and can't find anymore this is what I do . There still there just have to do something different to unlock them . Still have a bunch of videos to make they do take a long time to download and process so I will be adding to this as I get some time . One other thing I found the half today that was a edge next to a bottle cap . hope you got out sube
 
Wear can i go to find the Vidos??? Thanks All,
 
Mickfin if you go through the post you well see the videos outlined in blue click on it . Right above your last post there is a video . :thumbup: sube
 
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