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hunting in trash

No I don't downplay tones this is where I get my audio ID if it's there . my first pattern is FE line at 34 ferrous coin , manual sensitivity ,pitch hold , fast on ,combine ,1200HZ nickel bin 12.09 to 12.15 coin bin 12.29 to 12.50 at 1200HZ .now all I have to listen for is a high tone . Second screen 32 to 35 disc out the rest of the settings the same . User button same settings as second screen but high trash as tone profile .sube
 
Fantastic demonstration Sube.
Definitely, need to be more careful looking at the screen where there are more iron.
Thanks for great video.
 
You will dig more iron same as the nox lowering the iron bias same thing .

When you lower your Fe line above 30 it's a whole new world out there say 32 you will get rid of most nails


Ways not to dig iron if iron is high toning look at your screen do the #s travel up and down the right side of your screen say 12.47 to 12.50 that's iron high toning leave it .
Does the target repeat in the same place north and south and east and west you can also have a target repeat only north and south or only east and west or only one way say north . But they all have to repeat in the same place .
Now on the single hit say north try a slightly different angle about 2% difference is it still there if not you have iron 95%
I only run ferrous coin

Iron it seems well only high tone in a certain spot double high where it sits or a thrown high not where it is where as a coin when you turn 2% well still be there not like the iron.

Those signals that move when you pinpoint all be check with target trace bought ways to see if a coin is with iron.

You need more time on the machine God knows i dug my share of crap but it was a learning experience if you follow some of these suggestions it will cut your crap load down .sube
 
Dig-it! Great thread, Man. Learning a lot.
Had my CTX for 2 yrs now, beach hunt for 4 months/yr, and looking for Gold ring #23 (and gold teeth #4).
Ground-Coin only way to go on black sand beaches of west Florida.
For those interested, some info of this thread, (but much missing) is discussed in Sabisch's CTX 3030 handbook on target separation...on my third reading.
 
I agree, ive learned a ton from this thread!

Sube (or anyone), can you explain why FC attempts to push a target to the 12 line? I like to run FC too, because i can see multiple targets, but i guess it seems like forcing the cursor to appear on the 12 line could be misleading (shrug).

Thanks!
-Kerry
 
Ferrous coin was made to separate the iron from the coin signal . All the other modes take the two signals and combine them say giving you a 27.45 which is a blend of the two metals . Now ferrous coin will separate these signals and put one on the 12 line and one in the iron box say a dime which should give you a 12.45 however when a nail is on a dime that's a east west trace ferrous coin may give you a 12.21 to 12.35 you will have a false also at 12.40 and maybe another at 12.45 so you may get 3 target traces on the screen .

So you have 2 or 3 traces on the screen the lowest one is the one you want to pinpoint not the 12.45 or 12.40 the reason being that nail has down graded the signal to 12.21 to 12.35 . you won't get a 12.45 with a dime when there's a nail on it east west . the reason you want to dig the 12.21 to 12.35 is it well be silent if not silent and you get tone at 12.45 go by the tone .

Now the other modes only well give you a 27.45 or 29.45 and iron in the box not really separating them you can say they do but most targets dug will also have iron in the box I think this has to do with how much natural iron is in the ground or just rust flakes from nails and caps .

So the other 3 modes with iron may be anywhere from 21,45 to 29.45 look at the second # if it repeats in the same place dig if it wonders around leave it's more than likely just iron . Now silent traces with iron on the coin will read from 27.45 to 29.45 most anything above 27.45 will most likely give tone because the iron has not killed the signal . sube
 
I see most of these posts is from a long time ago, but i have owned my ctx 3030 since 2017 and i am not at all clever enough to understand how the unit works, how to set it up so that i can use it. I have been playing around on a spot near us that used to be a farm house dating back=k to the 1890, there is a mountain of trash, steel wire shotgun casings old horse shoes ext, i have managed to get one sixpence, but this was after digging a lot of junk. i try and understand the readings i get on the screen but like i said i do not understand what i am looking at. I tried to read the listings for ctx 3030 for beginners but i struggle with all the abbreviations, by the way this is my first ever detector. Is there any one that can help a dummy like me?

Cheers
 
Get Andy’s 3030 Book and goto a Bootcamp if you can.
Put in a Test Garden and try different programs and adjust your settings and see what they do
Just keep plugging away in one of the factory modes , it will all come together
BT
 
As a primary surf hunter in saltwater w my CTX, your video helps to reinforce the importance of digging all targets; since that cent at 12:35 may indeed be a gold ring at 12:27 in the presence of iron or perhaps even a pull tab! Great video and explanation.
 
Boertjie, where abouts do you live? Maybe someone with a CTX lives close to you and can give you some pointers. This being your first detector can make understanding it's settings more difficult. You can't really set it wrong per say. You can find lots of stuff with different settings. But when you have the settings adjusted to suite your ground and hunting environment, you will have an easier and more successful time with it.

The first thing you need to know so you can optimize the setting is what kind of ground are you hunting in concerning mineralization? You can bury a clad quarter at 6" and see how good the signal is both the audible signal and the display numbers. You want good repeatable tones and the display to be repeatable with little jumping around. Then you can bury the quarter at 8" and repeat. Keep going deeper and see how deep you can go before you loose the signal. You can also dig a hole about 6" and run a strong magnet around in the loose dirt in the hole and see how much stuff sticks to the magnet. If you get a fair amount of stuff attracted to the magnet and your depth for the quarter is 8" or less, you can know the your ground is heavily mineralized. If your get 10" of depth on the quarter, you have a medium ground and if you get 12" or deeper on the buried quarter, you ground is low in mineralization. Mineralization means who much natural iron your ground has in it. The more mineralized the ground is, the harder it is for your detector to see thru it and the depth will suffer. Ground conditions can change rapidly but most of the time, it will remain reasonably consistent in a local area. How deep you are finding coins is a good way to determine the ground conditions.

Also get familiar with you sensitivity settings and know how to find it in the menu and adjust it. This will help you with determining your ground mineralization and will allows you to run the CTX as hot as possible without getting too much chatter and/or falsing. There are other things that effect the sensitivity like EMI so learning to noise cancel will help you be able to run at a higher sensitivity giving you more depth.

Ground balancing can also be a help if you have a lot of mineralization so learn to ground balance and know how to get to this on the menu incase you have to use it. It is easy to do. Ground balance allows the detector to ignore the ground signal. The detector puts out a signal into the ground and receives the signal back into the coil. All ground will have produce a signal. The more mineralized the ground is, the stronger the ground signal will be. Ground balancing will allow the detector to compensate for this by being able to separate items from the ground which in turn give more accurate and stable readings and better target separation.

Iron junk in the ground is always problematic. As Iron junk deteriorates, the rusted iron particles start leaching into the ground around the iron object. This has a tendency to "blend" the iron object into the ground. This makes it hard for a detector to separate the iron object from the ground since the iron rust fades into the ground. Since there is no sharp distinction between the object and the ground due the to the rust blending the object into the ground, it can give some false signals. Having a better idea of what kind of ground you have will help to set the CTX so that you can better deal with any iron junk in the ground.

If you hunt around old home sites that have a lot of rusty nails and other iron debris, you can save yourself some troubles by buying a magnet on wheels used to pick up nails, Roofers use these a lot to pick up fallen roofing nails. A good rake can also help to remove some of the junk. Also when detecting, when you encounter a large piece of iron junk, dig it up and get it out of the way. Sometimes you have to be pro-active and purposely dig iron junk so you can get to the good stuff. You need to determine first if the home site is worth prepping first by detecting further out from the house where the junk is less concentrated and see if you can find any coins. Some old house sites are full of junk and void of coins. People didn't have much money in those times and you can't find what isn't there.

Once you determine your ground mineralization and get familiar with your sensitivity, noise cancel and your ground balance, then we can move forward with the rest of your CTX setting and working on a discrimination pattern and tone selection for your hunting environment.
 
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