Sovereign GT Mods

[kered]

Changing the coil from a 15x12 to the 12x10 do you find the balance has changed or do you just extend the lower rod to counteract it

 

[w6pea]

Great Pictures of your mod.

 

[Critterhunter]

I've never had to change the length of the shaft with any of my coils. The balance feels a bit better than the 15x12 or even the stock coil. It feels like it balances right at the grip now. I should check that and see. This coil feels much lighter than the stock coil once you take off the coil cover (use spray on bed liner). I need to weight my GT again to get a final weight, as well as this coil to see how it compares to the others in the chart I made in the Sovereign forum.

 

[kered]

Thought i'd add this here as its lost in the xs2apro thread as i can't edit the heading, also keeps the GT mods together

Having Swapped my F75 for a Sovereign gt with straight rod, sunray pinpointer and SEF12x10 i was eager to give it a go, i charged up the battery on the acucell6 and it only took 220ma so it was pretty full or so i thought, I did a 5-6 hour hunt no problems but on the next outing after about 2 hours i got the uncontrolable threshold signal that the battery was giving out(strangely no battery warning) but this should not have happened after about 7 hours at most and not a good sign for the stock battery(i will run it completly flat and cycle it a few times on the acucel and see how it performs.

The XS battery mod having worked so well i decided to check out the alkaline pack that came with the detector to see if the same lipo would fit

Ok for size, width and length

Depth too

The first thing i did was take out the curves that are to stop the alkalines from moving within the pack, both lines down the middle and also at both sides of the pack near the springs
Its very important that you make sure all is smooth and nothing is left that may punture the battery

I took them out using a very sharp wood chisel and dremel.
I also had to make a groove for the wires to pass from the front bay to the battery bay(used the soldering iron)
I soldered first the male part of the dean plug to a generous piece of wire on both contacts and sealed with heatshrink, then puting the conector in place and cut the ends at the required length and soldering to the already available solder joints at either side. I did this rather than cutting into the original wire so it can be undone, also the original wires are very fine to splice and could be cut by mistake
All in place

Next i had to cut the small bit of plastic that holds the thermister and circuit board (as the alkaline pack is made in the same mould as the rechargable) so that if i decide to use alkalines or rechargables the conector will fit in the space out of the way of the cells

All that is left now is to connect the battery and check connections with a meter to make sure they are good and then put on the top

Here you can see that there is plenty of clearence between the top and the battery so as not to crush the battery in any way, at the closest spot between 1 and 2 mm gap

I think that before using this setup i will place a piece of thin high density foam in the centre of the top to act as packing and stop any movement, this together with the foam at the bottom thats under the battery orientation drawing will sufice, also maybe a thin strip of plastic across the springs at either side to prevent them from doing any damage to the ends of the battery.

As pointed out by Critterhunter i will need to find some form of covering up the terminals of the case when not in use so as not to short out if they happen to come in contact with each other via a piece of metal, ie keys in pockets, knife etc

Hope you like it

 

[Critterhunter]

Excellent mod info. Thanks for putting that here. I just checked the balance of my custom GT with the 12x10 coil. It balances right at about 2 to 3" down from the hand grip, so that's very close to ideal balance (right at the grip).

 

[Dan-Pa.]

From the original right up to the latest seen some super mods..Personally if under warranty my mods would be strictly cosmetic but your call...Ken Herre(wildherre) among others have done some super mods...Lots of info in this thread so be my guest and thanks to the Critter for starting the discussion...

 

[dbsmokey]

Critterhunter,

Did you ever get the rubber boots for the toggle switches? The link to the American listed in this post is out of business. I would like to get some for my GT and would appreciate ideas.

Thanks.

 

[Critterhunter]

Yes, I thought I put a pic and info on that in this thread? If not then search the Sovereign forum for Dixie Metal Detectors (I think that's where I got them). Also, look up the Custom Light Weight GT thread (words to that effect when searching) because I posted some updated mod info and weighs. GT with 12x10 coil now weighs 4 pounds 3.9 ounces! She's light!

 

[dbsmokey]

Thanks Critterhunter. Your custom GT is a marvel and very original. I am going to attempt some of your ideas. I will search for Dixie's. I didn't see pics of the boots in this thread.

 

[Critterhunter]

I did a thread on those in the Sovereign forum complete with pictures of them on my GT and also tips on installing them quick and easy. Search for "half boots" or "switch boots" in that forum, or maybe "Dixie Metal Detectors" or something. I love those things.

I'll be posting some detailed shaft/grip/PP hardware info for building my custom GT from start to finish. I already typed it all out a few months back in Word but wanted to review it and correct a few steps/info before posting. It'll walk you right through everything. I also should be updating the remote PP pictorial here in the next few hours to make it even simpler to follow without the need for a test light or ohm meter to figure out the proper wire colors inside the cut stereo cord. Can't make it any simpler unless I build the darn thing for somebody.

PS- Much of the GT build info is in this thread, including pics to go along with the yet un-posted build thread. The pics alone should be self explanatory to people on that sort of stuff. Really pretty simple anyway.

 

[Critterhunter]

Here ya go on the link concerning the boots, where to buy them, and pics/info on how to install them. There is a link to Dixie who is a sponsor on Find Mall and said to always stock them...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1158037,page=2

If I didn

 

[Critterhunter]

OK, here's the latest version of the pictorial along with the which wire colors from inside the listed stereo cord hitch up to the switch. Can't be any easier than that. You need no test equipment now. Just follow which wires go to what pins for the whole thing and your done. Note that the colors listed for wiring the jack up inside the GT are just the colors of some servo wire I used to do that. The colors of the cut open stereo cord and how they hook up to your remote PP is what is most important, so that the proper pins from the GT route down the proper wires inside the stereo cord to the switch. Just read the info in this pic and I'm sure everything will be self explanatory. If you have any further questions let me know.

There are numerous ways you can mount the remote PP. You could run the wire for it under the foam grip cover on the stock grip and then attach the switch near the top using a hose clamp or something. I prefer mounting it inside a bike end bar, as these being aluminum are lighter than the stock grip and so much more comfortable with the right rubber hand grip put on them. What I did was hold the end bar in my hand like I was detecting to determine how much of the overhanging length was needed to have easy access to the switch. You don't want the switch so far away that you can't reach it with your index finger. Once I figured that out I then cut the excess length off the end of the end bar that wasn't needed. I then cut a slot in the end bar because the switch I used was a little too big to figit down inside of it and then be able to flip into a drilled hole. With the slit I just mounted the switch via it's nut and then slid it down inside the end bar to where I wanted it, tightening the nut the rest of the way (don't over tighten, it'll strip real easy!). Now the switch is hanging down from the hand grip as it is on most detectors like Whites. Oh, I also had to snip down the pin contacts on the switch for final clearance in order to fit it inside the end bar. Do this before soldering your wires on it.

The remote PP plugs into a stereo jack on the back of the GT via a stereo cord. I routed the cord inside the shaft and then directly up inside the end bar for a hidden/clean install of everything. Once all was done I sealed that slit I cut in the end bar for the switch with some Shoe Goo (rubber cement), then installed the end cap back onto the end bar. When you cut the length of the end bar down make sure to take into account the width of the end cap. Provide extra length for that otherwise it will bump into the switch and not seal properly.

The pictures of all this stuff can be found previously in this thread. Sooner or later I'll be posting a complete build thread for the shaft, remote PP routing/end bar, etc. The pics are there but the instructions I've got to proof read before posting. Finished all that a while back, just never seem to get around to it.

Set your stock switches on the GT for desired function- Iron Mask ON or OFF, and then the All Metal switch to PP, Fixed, or Track. Now when you flip the remote PP it will toggle between whatever to modes you have chosen with the stock switches. The stock switches will still work properly whether the remote PP is plugged in or not. That's the beauty of it all.

Anything that seems confusing or needs clarified just let me know. Related info can be found in the Sovereign forum under these two threads...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1303737

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1164138

 

[Critterhunter]

Just a minor update to the pictorial. I took out some obsolete information since I've now provided the wire colors inside the stereo cord to wire up to the switch. You could also install a second jack near the switch for total removal of the cord when not in use. Wire the switch to this second jack as shown with the proper pin numbers, but do not connect 3 to 1 like the jack has at the control box. It isn't needed for the second jack. Since I see no reason to ever remove the cord on my land rig, I have the stereo cord wired directly to the switch. Besides, I've got the stereo cord running inside the shaft and up inside the hand grip to hide it better. When using the control box on my water rig I just unplug the stereo cord from the back of the GT, since when chest mounted for water hunting I prefer to use the stock GT switch if I want to use PP or one of the All Metal modes. The switch is much easier to reach in that case and no sense in risking a remote PP getting wet.

If anybody has any further questions feel free to ask or shoot me a PM.

 

[Critterhunter]

OK, with the final stock GT weight (rechargable pack, DigiSearch meter, stock 10" coil) of 5 pounds 8.31 oz and my light weight GT running 12x10, lipo, etc, along with the DigiSearch meter at 4 pounds 3.9 oz, that means I've saved a total of 20.41 oz or 1 pound 4.41 ounces. Just 3.59 oz short of 1 and 1/2 pounds! I'm pretty happy with that. Thanks again to everybody for weighing the stock GT and DigiSearch meter. Now I may see how much further I can push it with a carbon fiber upper shaft and shortening the coil cables. Should be able to drop it down another 4 to 8 ounces or so by doing that. That would put me at about 3 pounds 12 ounces or so. Lightest GT on the planet with the control box still mounted on the shaft.

 

[Critterhunter]

A re-post from the Sovereign forum to walk people through things as simple as possible...

Oh come on! It couldn't be any more simple in explanation unless I wire the thing up for you myself. OK, let's keep it even more basic...

Go to Radio Shack and buy the stereo jack, switch, and stereo cord I listed part #s for. The other alternative part numbers in the pictorial are for different types of switches (push button, larger, smaller, etc).

Open up GT as I covered the steps in the Mods forum. Very easy to do.

Lay the face plate in the same orientation that I show in the pictorial.

Cut the middle pin on the designated switch I indicate and bend the two ends away from each other a bit.

Figure out where you want the jack to go on the back of the GT. Note the two covers of the control box to make sure nothing will get in the way when it's put back together. You can see where I put it in some of the pics walking you through the steps. Drill a hole here and mount the jack.

Solder a wire to the bottom pin. Anywhere will do but the tip will be easiest to reach. (ALWAYS use a little flux first to clean surface for easy soldering). On the stereo jack you will see pins with numbers on them. They are NOT in order, so make sure you find the right number for 1. Run the wire from the bottom pin on the switch to pin 1. Strip enough insulation off this wire so it will also reach pin 3 as well. Solder to both points.

Solder another wire up to the top cut post on the GT switch. Run this wire to pin #2 on the jack and solder in place there too. Also, if you have trouble reading the pins on the jack the package it came in should have a lay out of the pins on it as well.

Solder another wire to the right most pin or post on the GT switch. Solder the other end of this wire to pin 5 on the jack.

I used a 3 conductor servo wire. It puts less stress on the solder joints and is a cleaner install if you use a 3 wire conductor like that. I also put a dab of rubber cement on the jack where the three wires run across it to prevent stress there while swinging the GT. You can do the same near the switch at the face plate if you feel the need to. It's just to prevent future loose connections due to constant sweeping motion where the wires might be flopping around in there. Secure them if you want as above or via a zip tie or something.

DONE! Close up your GT. Turn the machine on and you should still have full control of the DISC and All Metal switches. If not then you have a bad connection somewhere or you wired to the wrong pins on the jack.

Now let's tackle the switch. Do you want a jack at the switch end as well? If so then don't hitch pin 1 to 3 like we did for GT jack. It's not needed. Just hook up pins 1, 2, and 5 to wires to run to your switch at this end.

Most people aren't going to want a jack at the switch end, so you are going to need to cut the stereo cord's plug off one end. Measure how long you want the cord to be to reach your hand grip where the switch is going to mount. Provide yourself with 3 to 4" extra length just in case. Cut the wire and strip. You'll notice 3 wires inside...A red, a black, and a bare wire with no insulation on it.

The bare wire must go to the middle pin on the switch I listed the part # for. The red and black wires don't really matter which one of the outer pins they go to on the switch. Solder all three up.

Now set your switches on the GT for the modes you want. Plug the stereo cord into the jack on the back of the GT, and turn the machine on. Is it running in one of the discrimination modes or is it in one of the All Metal modes? Flip the remote PP the other way. Is it now running in the other mode like it should, discrimination or All Metal...The reverse of what it was when flipped the other way? Good, then you have wired it successfully. If you have any issues read the bottom of the pictorial where I give some basic troubleshooting info.

Mount your switch via a hose clamp, drilling a hole in the stock grip (run the wire under the foam grip), or best I think is to mount it inside a bike end bar. These end bars have slight left or right bends in them. Some are worse than others. A slight bend won't matter. Just position it on the shaft to where your fist is dead center down the top of the shaft. In order to mount the switch inside the end bar I used I had to first clip down the pins on the switch shorter before soldering so it would fit inside the end bar. I still couldn't flip it into a drilled hole once inside, so I had to cut a slot down the end bar to desired position so I could slide the switch down inside it already in place so to speak.

I ran the stereo cord inside the shaft and to the base of the end bar. My end bar had a slight flat spot near the base so I drilled a hole straight up inside that to run the wiring. You could drill directly through the mounting clamp of the end bar but that makes getting the wire up inside it tricky. A lot of end bars have this flat indentation right near the base that was perfect. I'll post the model # end bar I used soon. It was like $10 I think. Mainly you want the wire to run up inside the end bar in some fashion where it's not being rubbed or moved by your hand all the time. If it exits the shaft and goes right inside the end bar near it's base and dead center on the side facing you then your hand will naturally clear it. I sealed the slot I cut in the end bar and where the stereo cord enters/exits the shaft and goes into the end bar with rubber cement (Shoe Goo). This will avoid dirt or water getting inside as well as keep the stereo cord from rubbing a short into it.

Mount the switch so that when flipped to discriminate it's flipped out away from the grip, and goes into all metal when pulled towards you. This helps keep it a little more out of your way when doing most hunting and wearing gloves and such. The tricky part is deciding where you want the switch. It should be close enough handing down from inside the end bar so as to easily reach with modest movement of your index finger, yet not so close that wearing gloves in the winter or such might switch it by accident.

You should buy the stereo cord I listed the part # for otherwise the internal wire colors of it might not match and you'll need to use a test light or ohm meter to determine which wires are which contacts on the plug.

As a side note, I just realized how I might save even further weight. They do make carbon fiber end bars. That would also be less cold on your hand in the winter. Wonder how expensive they are. Will be checking into that along with a carbon fiber upper shaft.

THERE! If you want it any simpler I'll have to write it in crayon.

 

[Critterhunter]

Somebody recently contacted me with a few questions concerning doing my remote PP switch mod on the GT. As he took it apart he took some clear pictures, since I was having trouble with the focus in the ones I posted in this thread. I will get to writing a few arrows to things on them. Mainly I'll point out the switch to cut the middle terminal on to be even more clear for people. Thanks for sending me these pics, and please take credit for them. I don't like posting the names or handles of people talking to me in Emails or PMs. Many people do not like to even talk in public in the forums due to the nature of other people. I can sympathize.

 

[Critterhunter]

Two more...

 

[Critterhunter]

Here's a modified picture to show exactly what to do when soldering the needed connections from the stock switch to a stereo jack. Remember to make sure where you plan to mount the jack on the back of the GT will clear when the two halves of the control box are put back together. One half of the box might bump into it due to a depression in the plastic.

Also, make sure you are not working in an evironment that contains static electricity to avoid possible shocking of the control board's IC chips.

Any other questions just shoot me a PM.

 

[w6pea]

n/t

 

[w6pea]

good pictures