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Yellow Headphone Change for Excalibur II using Peltor 105's

You can really hear those faint signals, problem I first had was digging tiny bits of iron that does double beep. Its hard at first to tell if its a deep target vs. a bitty target! I error in digging,I just can't walk away not knowing. The big deal is getting that ocean wave noise out of the picture. For me that makes all the difference. steve
 
Nice job Kered! I have one Question for you do you have any issue's draining the water out of the head phones if you happen to get swamped by a wave etc;?

Cheers Ronnie :ausflag:
 
Yes the foam is the pressure that holds the transducers in place.The water issue has't come up yet do to it being cold. Putting a drain hole would ruin the noise blocking. but you have me thinking that a 1/4 hole with a rubber stopper would work. steve
 
Not had mine wet yet but i think they would drain through the grommet hole as its not perfect, the foam/sponge will also stop much water getting in in the few seconds that a ducking lasts
 
I just finished the mod on a set of behind the head 105's so I can still wear my big hat.THANKS guy's for all the info it made the mode a breeze
cheers Ronnie
 
i thought of that too but decided to go for the normal headband ones to help keep my hat on in the wind.
 
otlew said:
Has anyone tried drilling a hole centered on the seam where the red oval meets the black cup? Seems to me that might be the easiest way to do it. Looking at how its made (I have a pair) you would need to avoid the locking tabs on the top and bottom of the red section.

Since the red and black are separate pieces drilling is out, as you attempt to drill the two pieces will separate the drill will walk.There is a web under the red piece. I use a dremel and made half round on each piece. This worked fine. the whole project took about 1 hr. steve
 
I just finished mine I used a rotozip drywall tool put it in a vise upside down bit up turned out nice sounds good took me about 1 1\2 hrs didn't cut the wires thx for sharing a great mod everyone HH RONC
 
Sorry, but I may have a stupid question.

Just received my Peltor 105's and planned on doing the mod for my Ecalibur II, but have not figured how to get the ear pads off jammed under the red plastic pieces. From the pictures it's not clear how to do this, but looks like a flat screw driver is in the picture. But without more information, if I start prying looks like something is going to break.

Okay, reviewed the instruction from original post and will try to separate with a small screwdriver inside the red plastic part.
 
Check out page 2 in this thread there's a picture of the area to separate. Once it starts to go you'll see that it wants to go.I too was stumped at first. look at the red piece in the background that should be all you need to proceed. steve
 
Buried Crap NJ said:
Check out page 2 in this thread there's a picture of the area to separate. Once it starts to go you'll see that it wants to go.I too was stumped at first. look at the red piece in the background that should be all you need to proceed. steve

Thanks for the reply Steve.
Used a small screw driver on the seam between the red plastic and black plastic, and once I got the red plastic to move a little it pulled right apart quite easily. Don't know if I can cut and trim the transducers without a Dremel using heavy duty shears, but it would look better for sure. Looks like the rest of the mod is not difficult.

Brian
 
tomcatpl said:
i did the same thing u should get the gel pads too they cost like 40$ they are great HY80 skygeek.com

I've got some gel pads coming, haven't figured out how to get the old pads off my 105's without ripping them.

Brian
 
look at my first photo on the previous page you'll see that there is a very fine slot for a fine screwdriver, once they start to open they just pop off
 
I hope I'm not screwed now, accidentally cut the wires on one side of Koss tranducers and I don't have the equipment or know how to solder them back together. Will try a local electronic shop and see what they can do.

Finderskeeper said:
I used the Peltor Optime 98's and you have to do some modifications. They are twice the thickness of the Koss headphones and also have foam padding inside.

I cut my wires and I think your idea was a lot better. If I had to do it again, I would have slit the plastic instead of cutting the wires.

The Original Koss headphones have good speakers but the actual Koss ear cup is cheap. If you look at the first photo, you will notice that there are two slots in back of the ear cup (that are behind the headband clip mount and you cannot see them when the headphones are together) that are used to dump water out when they are submerged. But those slots make for very poor exterior sound control even if you tape over the drain holes. The Peltor ear cups are about twice as thick as the stock Koss cups and offer way better sound insulation.

I had to trim the original speakers to fit inside the Peltor and used a Dremel tool with a cutting bit. I also drilled the holes in the Peltor ear cups with a drill press......you have to run the press at least 3000 rpm in plastic for a good clean hole.

The Peltors are very comfortable.....way better than the Koss and extremely quiet.....they keep out noise really well and is a huge improvement over the stock Koss headphones. And what is nice is that the speakers are still waterproof and will work submerged.....I tried it in the bathtub and they work great! I am thinking of putting the gel pads on them also. I actually like these headphones better than the Grey Ghost's that I had in the past.

Some final notes:
Cutting the wires will void your warranty. So don't. Follow Burried's idea.

Also, the shielding wire in the Koss headphones has a red coating on it and makes it difficult to solder.

Each wire has 2 wires inside of it (4 soldering points each actual cable and there are three areas that have to be cut and soldered for a total of 12 solder joints.)

Some of the wires are very thin and require extreme care in soldering and insulating. If you want to cut the wires, then I recommend doing one wire at a time and use a small clip vise to hold the wires while soldering. Magnification is necessary because the wires are so small. A fine tip solder iron is also required.

I also recommend (if you cut the wires) using Goop to seal off the holes and wires and I also recommend getting Liquid electrical tape for insulating the solder joints along with a good electrical tape. The red coated wire is also prone to rubbing against each other and shorting out the speakers and so you have to be very careful when putting this all back together. You have to seal the cut areas really well to prevent water from wicking into the control pod. Use lots of sealant. (Goop or Liquid Seal)

But then again.....Follow Burried Crap's idea and don't cut the wires.....just notch the cups. I had nothing to do this last evening and so I wanted to cut the wires and try putting it back together. Took me twice as long as it should have but what the heck.....better than watching TV.
 
they all come off the same way


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivV0cHjgSD4
 
The 105's have section of red plastic that ear pads that the Koss'es don't have, and are attached to the top and bottom of this red plastic, not just at the top by a lip. There's no problem getting the ear pads off the Koss'es, but they are nothing like the Peltor 105's. Maybe the the Bulls Eye 7's and H7A"s can be easily done as they don't look like they have the extra piece of plastic that the ear pads are attached to. I may be wrong. but I don't believe I am. I'm open to suggestions.
Anybody able to get the gel pads on their Peltor H10A 105's?
 
I forgot to mention that I found a local electronics repair shop to fix my Koss transducer wires. My light weight Dremel is not really powerful enough to trim the plastic on transducers at one time to be able to fit into the 105's. It's either going to take a lot recharges, or I have to get a bigger one.
 
Suggestion
The Peltor Gel pads are made for the 101's , just to snap right on...you have to pull the gel pads off of the mounting piece that was made for the 101's...then cut the pads off of the 105's with a sharp razor, there is the same mounting piece on the 105's it's just a different size, and it is removable with a very small flat head screwdriver. After trimming the pad off, just stick the new gel pad onto the mounting plate of the 105's...........the 101's are the same as the 7ha
 
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