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Yellow Headphone Change for Excalibur II using Peltor 105's

Buried Crap NJ

New member
I changed out my yellow Excalibur II headphone for a Peltor 105's I used these other than the Peltor 7a's
These are on Ebay for 20.99 free ship there are cheaper auction but watch shipping cost.
( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270630761440&var=570008195339&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT )
I only had the posts here to follow and CJC's book of the Mod. Neither were very helpful as the yellow Excall II headphone come apart different than the blue ones. Pretty straight forward sorry I did not take pictures as I went. But will explain .
First off just pull the soft ear pads off the yellow headphones. Take out the 4 each screws. Next with a pair of cutting pliers cut out a slot to slip the wire out without cutting wire. You are left with a pair of wired waterproof transducers. These will need to be highly trimmed. Picture of first cut,will need to be smaller.
The new set of Peltor's headphones( I used the red Black) separates right at the red black seam toward the big cup. Not the hole side. Pry with a tiny screw driver while pulling. When opened you find a whitish plastic inner cup with gray foam. The transducers need to fit inside the white cup on top of the gray foam. More precise cutting will work better here. I cut mine around the most inner ring. This proved to be too big. I ended up cutting a complete circle around the transducer leaving about and 1/8 inch of black. The new headphone need three holes for the wire's. I cut a V at the bottom of both the red section and outer black cup. I cut V section at the top each headphone again both the red section and black section. (Note the top holes are smaller wires) You will also need to make a cut on the white plastic to allow a space for the wires to exit. I then use a Dremel motor tool to round and smooth any sharp edges.
Assembly is straight forth also. Just take the transducer and place in the circle with the gray foam, direct the wire out the slots.
( I removed the knots in the wires) Take both pieces and put back together ( making a sandwich of the transducer on the inner red ring from the head set assembly) and snap together. Do the same to the other side. I used shoe goo to fill the holes and wire tied the wire to the wire portion of the head set.
The total time was about 1 hr that included searching for tools. I used a pair of diagonal pliers and shop scissors, a tiny Phillips head and flat head screw driver.
The only reason to do this was to eliminate the wind ocean noise that always bothers me. Now about the warranty unless you pull the headphone wires out of the unit I see no reason for loosing it.(they may claim a little heavier) You never cut any wires and your not changing the headphone. Their just repackaged!
 
i did the same thing u should get the gel pads too they cost like 40$ they are great HY80 skygeek.com
 
I will I will be happy for now with these. I will make the change after a few months that way its like a treat.not too many changes at once for us old guys.
 
they look great, how did they do for you??
thanks
john
 
JOHNMARKHAM said:
they look great, how did they do for you??
thanks
john[/quote
John and everybody else reading this post. It is like night and day. I hunted on the beach with 30 mph winds and gust to 45 mph. The waves were crashing
down and I had a nice low buzz. The out side noise wasn't present. One problem I encounter is, I was targeting soft tones in the threshold.thinking these were deep targets, I dug them only a few turn out to be coins, most were tiny pits of iron/steel. I have to improve my skills on these smaller targets. I need to learn which are deep and which are smaller non round targets.Its like learning over again as the lack of out side noise allows for a much much lower threshold. Which allow more target to be heard.(good and bad alike) I hope I can report soon that the gold finds have increased do to the change. steve
 
Nice Job BC, think you find that those faints are the ones everyone else is missing because they can't hear them for all the beach noise. Keep us informed on your new HP's. Were you working on a Amp? Can't remember....
 
OldBeechnut said:
Nice Job BC, think you find that those faints are the ones everyone else is missing because they can't hear them for all the beach noise. Keep us informed on your new HP's. Were you working on a Amp? Can't remember....

Ya no amp! I am so surprised with the difference.Its kinda like the first day you get the thing tune correctly for the first time. You look around to see if anyone saw you fall down. Oh that's what there talking about! If anyone is sitting the fence just DO IT!
 
I cut up a pair of cheapo $20 Sony phones that I really liked that were highly recomended by crazyman ....WHERE ARE YOU CRAZYMAN ? ........I put these headphone drivers into the same set of Peltors that you are using here ....WOW !!....Like you say ....NIGHT AND DAY difference ......Pretty incredible .....Jim
 
wait untill u get a hold of the gel pads with the 105's
 
I used the Peltor Optime 98's and you have to do some modifications. They are twice the thickness of the Koss headphones and also have foam padding inside.

I cut my wires and I think your idea was a lot better. If I had to do it again, I would have slit the plastic instead of cutting the wires.

The Original Koss headphones have good speakers but the actual Koss ear cup is cheap. If you look at the first photo, you will notice that there are two slots in back of the ear cup (that are behind the headband clip mount and you cannot see them when the headphones are together) that are used to dump water out when they are submerged. But those slots make for very poor exterior sound control even if you tape over the drain holes. The Peltor ear cups are about twice as thick as the stock Koss cups and offer way better sound insulation.

I had to trim the original speakers to fit inside the Peltor and used a Dremel tool with a cutting bit. I also drilled the holes in the Peltor ear cups with a drill press......you have to run the press at least 3000 rpm in plastic for a good clean hole.

The Peltors are very comfortable.....way better than the Koss and extremely quiet.....they keep out noise really well and is a huge improvement over the stock Koss headphones. And what is nice is that the speakers are still waterproof and will work submerged.....I tried it in the bathtub and they work great! I am thinking of putting the gel pads on them also. I actually like these headphones better than the Grey Ghost's that I had in the past.

Some final notes:
Cutting the wires will void your warranty. So don't. Follow Burried's idea.

Also, the shielding wire in the Koss headphones has a red coating on it and makes it difficult to solder.

Each wire has 2 wires inside of it (4 soldering points each actual cable and there are three areas that have to be cut and soldered for a total of 12 solder joints.)

Some of the wires are very thin and require extreme care in soldering and insulating. If you want to cut the wires, then I recommend doing one wire at a time and use a small clip vise to hold the wires while soldering. Magnification is necessary because the wires are so small. A fine tip solder iron is also required.

I also recommend (if you cut the wires) using Goop to seal off the holes and wires and I also recommend getting Liquid electrical tape for insulating the solder joints along with a good electrical tape. The red coated wire is also prone to rubbing against each other and shorting out the speakers and so you have to be very careful when putting this all back together. You have to seal the cut areas really well to prevent water from wicking into the control pod. Use lots of sealant. (Goop or Liquid Seal)

But then again.....Follow Burried Crap's idea and don't cut the wires.....just notch the cups. I had nothing to do this last evening and so I wanted to cut the wires and try putting it back together. Took me twice as long as it should have but what the heck.....better than watching TV.
 
The coating on the wires is some kind of laquer coating .....If you take an exacto knife and lightly scrape the wires, the strands will flatten out and you can scrape that Red coating off to make an easier job of soldering ......That's IF you are going to cut your wires ....Jim
 
synthnut said:
The coating on the wires is some kind of laquer coating .....If you take an exacto knife and lightly scrape the wires, the strands will flatten out and you can scrape that Red coating off to make an easier job of soldering ......That's IF you are going to cut your wires ....Jim
I also found that if you hat up the wire first, it will burn off the coating. But you have to be really careful as too much heat and you will melt the other wires.
 
Has anyone tried drilling a hole centered on the seam where the red oval meets the black cup? Seems to me that might be the easiest way to do it. Looking at how its made (I have a pair) you would need to avoid the locking tabs on the top and bottom of the red section.
 
I was surprized at how easy it was. It will be a big update on a windy rough beach....like the one I hunt. Now off to Mexico for a month and a half..

Dave
 
the way i did it was ti leave the cables uncut and cut the cups instead, then cut the new headphones to seat the existing gromets
 
The hardest thing was trimming the bit with the speaker on to the exact size, cut it slightly oversize then take your time and trim it with the sander on a dremal to get an exact fit, you will need to do the white and black bit too to seat the cable. But the end result i think is worth it.
Thanks to OBN mine turned out pretty good i think.
 
Thanks Kered, ...Looks like you did a top notch job, very clean looking..........bet you can hear those faint fringe signals now................We all can thank Mr.Gold Master for this mod, If anyone feels they can't handle the job, Phililp sells a set of the peltors already done and utilizes a new type of speaker system that produces stunning results
The peltor101 is still used and continues to provide top notch noise reduction.
, VB Max got a pair and loves them.


dssussb@YAHOO.COM


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