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Got about 10 minutes? Excalibur Speaker choice, Which is the Best?
- Thread starter OldBeechnut
- Start date
Critterhunter
New member
Thanks for the tips. If I was going to have the Plano box in the water then I'd opt for something else then by the sound of what you are saying. Kobron2000 lets his float along side him so the lid perhaps leaking wouldn't be an issue, and since I'm mounting mine on a back shaft snap on extension out of the water, I'm not too worried about a potential leak. The box should never even kiss the water at the head height I plan to have it on the back extension. It's just going to be in that box should I get hit by a rouge wave or accidently drop the shaft for a second. In those instances it shouldn't be at risk of a leak for a split second, I hope anyway. I plan to mount the box to the extension via two pipe brackets meant to secure a pipe to a wall via two screws. I'll just seal the screws as they are screwed in with Shoe Goo to insure no leaks.
Where and why exactly did yours leak? If it's a gasket issue then perhaps smearing some flexibable silicone over the box lip might work? Grease the lid with vaseline so it won't stick to it while the stuff is drying, and then close the lid to shape a secure seal, then open the lid and let it dry like that?
I'm still debating which box to use- Kabron2000's or the one being used in the other new post? That one looks less baulky and more "meant" for the shape of the GT's box. Only concern to me is angle tight angles to bend the coil cable. I don't want any stress points near the coil connector, as that's the most prone to develop a short due to stress. For that reason I'm think Kobron's might be the way to go, as it looks longer where I could run the coil cable straight out the end of the box without any kinking?
Where and why exactly did yours leak? If it's a gasket issue then perhaps smearing some flexibable silicone over the box lip might work? Grease the lid with vaseline so it won't stick to it while the stuff is drying, and then close the lid to shape a secure seal, then open the lid and let it dry like that?
I'm still debating which box to use- Kabron2000's or the one being used in the other new post? That one looks less baulky and more "meant" for the shape of the GT's box. Only concern to me is angle tight angles to bend the coil cable. I don't want any stress points near the coil connector, as that's the most prone to develop a short due to stress. For that reason I'm think Kobron's might be the way to go, as it looks longer where I could run the coil cable straight out the end of the box without any kinking?
Sven
Well-known member
The lid itself bowed upwards on both ends just enough there was no longer an pressure on the gaskets.
Adding an additional bolt and thumb screw to put more pressure on the lid and gasket did not help. I actually did an air pressure test to find the leak.
Yes always use silicone grease meant for underwater camera housings.
My box was mount rearward, in hip deep water the box does get wet. I would not want any type of corrosive salt water entering the box in any way. By the way if you have any air leaks, good chance for condensation to form inside. Silica Gel pack and maybe a very small sponge inside to mop up any thing that enters. Salt water fries electronics and if the coil is hardwired in can get inside the search coil cable. Check any adhesives you use now and then for breakdown of adhesion that salt water might cause. Better to be safe than sorry.
Adding an additional bolt and thumb screw to put more pressure on the lid and gasket did not help. I actually did an air pressure test to find the leak.
Yes always use silicone grease meant for underwater camera housings.
My box was mount rearward, in hip deep water the box does get wet. I would not want any type of corrosive salt water entering the box in any way. By the way if you have any air leaks, good chance for condensation to form inside. Silica Gel pack and maybe a very small sponge inside to mop up any thing that enters. Salt water fries electronics and if the coil is hardwired in can get inside the search coil cable. Check any adhesives you use now and then for breakdown of adhesion that salt water might cause. Better to be safe than sorry.
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Looks Good Sven, Some fine work. And a Excellent tip, Saltwater is harsh..what kind of Adhesives have you used with success?
Sven said:
Sven
Well-known member
UV-6800 GOOP or Marine Goop, identical product.
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/uv6800_retail.htm
West Marine
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/marine.htm
Walmart's Boating Automotive depart is supposed to carry it as well.
A bit of Toluene can be used as a thinner for brushing applications
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/uv6800_retail.htm
West Marine
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/marine.htm
Walmart's Boating Automotive depart is supposed to carry it as well.
A bit of Toluene can be used as a thinner for brushing applications
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Thank You Sven!! I will check them out....I have been using 3m silicon and aquaseal....One reason I'm just doiing 10 sets of Skullies this year, I want to see how they hold up to the saltwater. I may end up buying a few sets back just to see how well they do...thanks again...joe
Critterhunter
New member
Great info on sealants. I recently fixed a bad on/off switch on a friend's Pro Pointer. The only "weak" point on the Pro Pointer is the rubber switch boot develops tears (even ones you can't see) at the edge of the double walled lip (it's grommet like), which then allows dirt and moisture to get inside the Pro Pointer and eventually jam up the switch. He hunts like mad and got one of the first Pro Pointers when they came out, so to be fair to Garrett this thing has seen a ton of use. As I suspected, with a good cleaning of non-residue contact cleaner the switch works fine now.
The switch cover just pulls out, so to prevent future problems with contamination, I re-installed the switch cover and then sealed over it with a good sealant. Didn't have my preferred sealant around (Shoe Goo), so I used a caulking tube of clear GE Premium Waterproof Silicone from the local Sprawlmart. "Silicone II". Sun/freeze/shrink proof, and won't crack or crumble. IE: Stays flexible. Had it laying around to fix a leaky windshield seal on my sister's car.
The stuff is thick so you can put it on in a thick layer to help insure no leaks. I spread it completely over the switch and then spanned it out about 1/3rd of an inch all the way around the edges out away from the switch, so that if the ends should peal up one day there's still plenty of surface area to prevent anything from working it's way to the switch boot (cleaning well with rubbing alcohol to prepare the surface of the Pro Pointer helps).
Thought the only issue might be the Pro Pointer being harder to turn on/off now, but turns out it makes it even easier to do so with more "meat" pressing down on the switch. That "how to" in the modification forum is here by the way- http://www.findmall.com/read.php?22,1833805
A word of caution and then back to the sealant- Even if the battery and end cap is removed, as it should be when cleaning out the inside via spraying into the switch cover hole to drain all the gunk out of the Pro Pointer's internals and the switch it's self, the Pro Pointer will hold a slight charge should the battery have been removed while the switch is stuck in the OFF position. Should you unjam the switch and it suddenly turns to ON, there is a risk of igniting the fumes from the contact cleaner and you could have a very bad firecracker in your hand here. If the switch is stuck in the ON position when the battery is removed, then the electrical charge should drain completely.
The non-residue cleaner I used is found at Home Depot in the electrical department. You don't want to use contact cleaners with lubricating qualities, as they will only attract more dirt in the future. Anyway, this stuff evaporates very fast in a matter of seconds, and so the fumes generated are highly flammable.
Back to the sealant- I like this stuff so much, that in the future if I have to do some heavy waterproofing I'll use this stuff, as it will save me a few bucks over smaller tubes of Shoe Goo. It doesn't seem as thick as Shoe Goo when applying it, but it does stay pretty flexible when dry. Maybe not as flexible as Shoe Goo perhaps but good none the less.
As a side note, I think Garret should give people about 3 or 4 switch covers with every new Pro Pointer and then suggest you replace them about once a year or so for preventive maintenance. They just pull right out fairly easy by starting at a corner. Seems like it would save Garrett some money in the long run on warrantied repairs. If the switch it's self ever goes in mine and can't be fixed via cleaning, I plan to replace it with a sealed self contained waterproof switch.
By the way, on that topic- OBN or anybody else...I'll be adding a remote PP switch to my water shaft like I have on my land shaft to plug the control box into. I'm in need of a good waterproof switch for the winter project. I could use any links or advice on what you guys have found worked well in various applications. One that isn't prone to wearing a leak into it's enclosure via use over time.
The switch cover just pulls out, so to prevent future problems with contamination, I re-installed the switch cover and then sealed over it with a good sealant. Didn't have my preferred sealant around (Shoe Goo), so I used a caulking tube of clear GE Premium Waterproof Silicone from the local Sprawlmart. "Silicone II". Sun/freeze/shrink proof, and won't crack or crumble. IE: Stays flexible. Had it laying around to fix a leaky windshield seal on my sister's car.
The stuff is thick so you can put it on in a thick layer to help insure no leaks. I spread it completely over the switch and then spanned it out about 1/3rd of an inch all the way around the edges out away from the switch, so that if the ends should peal up one day there's still plenty of surface area to prevent anything from working it's way to the switch boot (cleaning well with rubbing alcohol to prepare the surface of the Pro Pointer helps).
Thought the only issue might be the Pro Pointer being harder to turn on/off now, but turns out it makes it even easier to do so with more "meat" pressing down on the switch. That "how to" in the modification forum is here by the way- http://www.findmall.com/read.php?22,1833805
A word of caution and then back to the sealant- Even if the battery and end cap is removed, as it should be when cleaning out the inside via spraying into the switch cover hole to drain all the gunk out of the Pro Pointer's internals and the switch it's self, the Pro Pointer will hold a slight charge should the battery have been removed while the switch is stuck in the OFF position. Should you unjam the switch and it suddenly turns to ON, there is a risk of igniting the fumes from the contact cleaner and you could have a very bad firecracker in your hand here. If the switch is stuck in the ON position when the battery is removed, then the electrical charge should drain completely.
The non-residue cleaner I used is found at Home Depot in the electrical department. You don't want to use contact cleaners with lubricating qualities, as they will only attract more dirt in the future. Anyway, this stuff evaporates very fast in a matter of seconds, and so the fumes generated are highly flammable.
Back to the sealant- I like this stuff so much, that in the future if I have to do some heavy waterproofing I'll use this stuff, as it will save me a few bucks over smaller tubes of Shoe Goo. It doesn't seem as thick as Shoe Goo when applying it, but it does stay pretty flexible when dry. Maybe not as flexible as Shoe Goo perhaps but good none the less.
As a side note, I think Garret should give people about 3 or 4 switch covers with every new Pro Pointer and then suggest you replace them about once a year or so for preventive maintenance. They just pull right out fairly easy by starting at a corner. Seems like it would save Garrett some money in the long run on warrantied repairs. If the switch it's self ever goes in mine and can't be fixed via cleaning, I plan to replace it with a sealed self contained waterproof switch.
By the way, on that topic- OBN or anybody else...I'll be adding a remote PP switch to my water shaft like I have on my land shaft to plug the control box into. I'm in need of a good waterproof switch for the winter project. I could use any links or advice on what you guys have found worked well in various applications. One that isn't prone to wearing a leak into it's enclosure via use over time.
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Critter.off/on........used on my xs2..have others if needed..sorry did not see your question till today
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IPR1SAD2/679-1099-ND/1280165
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?FV=fff40011%2Cfff80061&k=ip67&vendor=0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV235=9
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IPR1SAD2/679-1099-ND/1280165
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?FV=fff40011%2Cfff80061&k=ip67&vendor=0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV235=9
Critterhunter
New member
Thank you sir. I'll look into those. Got to get my "winter" projects done here because thank God spring is on it's way soon.
excellent post and a huge thank you!!!!! i would like to hear in one segment how each respond to the mens gold and womans gold rings. also would like a demonstration of each in pinpoint.
as far as disc goes the ones with a fuller more bass rich audio sound much better. interesting how bad and weak the stock yellows sound.
chuck.
as far as disc goes the ones with a fuller more bass rich audio sound much better. interesting how bad and weak the stock yellows sound.
chuck.
G
G.A.P.metal
Guest
still a great help !
Gary
Gary