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WS6 will not power on

D

Dan'O

Active member
I've had the Deus 2 in storage for the last 10 months or so. I had everything charged a little less than full. I pulled it all out only to find the WS6 would not power on. I charged and checked it for about 11 hours with no success.
Any Ideas. Thanks.

P.S. I changed charge cables about mid way through. Both of them work on the MI6 and coil.
 
You commented on the charging cable. Does the display show that it's charging or charged when you plug the charge cable into it?
Either way, if it is out of warranty, you know the power cable is good, and you're comfortable with tinkering, you might open it up (without the charge cable connected) and disconnect the battery for a couple minutes and then reconnect it. That's what I would do before sending it for repairs.
I've never worked on the WS6 D2 master but replaced the battery in my D1 WS6 headset and it wasn't difficult. The screws for the body and battery connecter are very small so you should be equipped with a small Phillips screwdriver and needle-nose plyers for fine work.
 
Sorry to hear. Were you able to check battery voltage? Should 3.2v I believe.
If it were mine, I would unplug the battery while it's opened up and plug the charger into the charging port to see if it will power up without the battery.
I can't say if the charger will power up the WS6, but I'm sure it won't hurt to try. If it does work, it would narrow things down to the battery or charging circuit.
 
I don’t think it is a secret the battery is 3.7 v. Lithium battery so take a look to find the positive and negatives that go into the connector. Buy a 3.7 volt button battery and solder wires to it and plug into the connector. If it doesn’t come to life send it in. It’s either the battery the touch button or needs repaired with another board. That is my thoughts on it.
 
Yep, 3.7v. I should have taken the time to look instead of going off memory.
 
Dan'O said:
I've had the Deus 2 in storage for the last 10 months or so. I had everything charged a little less than full. I pulled it all out only to find the WS6 would not power on. I charged and checked it for about 11 hours with no success.
Any Ideas. Thanks.

P.S. I changed charge cables about mid way through. Both of them work on the MI6 and coil.
Click to expand...
It’s suppose to turn on when you power on the machine. Could pairing be an issue?
Tony
 
I wouldn’t believe that would effect power on since configuration and pairing can only be done after power on. Unit has to have power, switch connects power to circuitry, if the smoke stays in it might work unless there is a short then u see smoke and it starts to smell dead. Or it just gave up the ghost so to speak.
 
Prob need to do an update on it once you are able to get it “on”. Hold the plus and minus at the same time. That’s supposed to power it off, maybe that will reset it and then you can see if it will power on. Just throwing stuff out there.
 
I know that there has been a few times I have powered on the controller and my ws6 headphones do not power on like normal. I have to manually push the power on the headset to have them come on.
 
If the lithium ion battery falls below 2.5volts or 3 volts depending where the cut off voltage is . Then the charger will not recognize the battery and will not charge . You need to know the voltage of the battery if it is under the cutoff voltage 2.5 or 3 volts you need to get the battery voltage up to the cutoff voltage for the charger to recognize it or it will not charge .
Your battery probably fell below the cutoff voltage while being stored .
You also might get lucky plugging it in for a minute and unplugging it again and again every time you plug it in it charges for a few seconds raising the battery voltage till the charger recognizes it . sube
 
Soldering to a battery is not an easy task. A good amount of heat is required to solder to a battery. I think most batteries are spot welded together with a wire or metal strip. I made a temporary connection once by soldering a metal washer to wires and using a neodymium magnet to attach the wire to the battery powering up the device. A 3.7 volt high output battery.
Charged a 3.7 vdc battery with A old cell phone charger. It might work for you like it did in my instance. Good luck 👍
 
Yea a new battery will probably make it work again. It’s easy to solder to a battery without a lot of heat. Trick is to burnish it with sandpaper and add a touch of solder flux. I think Sube hit on something where things have been asleep and need some coaxing by charging a little than again till things may rejuvenate to an extent. The cutoff he mentions seems a little high- 2 to 3 volts. I don’t see detection time very long if that were the case. Lost track of my specs for those batteries, but most Lithium batteries the voltage can be drawn almost 90 percent before cutoff. My button battery suggestion was just a quick self test to check out his issue. Problems occur and we look for quick easy hopeful fixes before sending stuff off.
 
Listener said:
Yea a new battery will probably make it work again. It’s easy to solder to a battery without a lot of heat. Trick is to burnish it with sandpaper and add a touch of solder flux. I think Sube hit on something where things have been asleep and need some coaxing by charging a little than again till things may rejuvenate to an extent. The cutoff he mentions seems a little high- 2 to 3 volts. I don’t see detection time very long if that were the case. Lost track of my specs for those batteries, but most Lithium batteries the voltage can be drawn almost 90 percent before cutoff. My button battery suggestion was just a quick self test to check out his issue. Problems occur and we look for quick easy hopeful fixes before sending stuff off.
Click to expand...
The cutoff he mentions seems a little high- 2 to 3 volts. I don’t see detection time very long if that were the case.

Most tool pack batteries such as DeWalt 20 volt pack well have a cutoff voltage of 15.3 volts 5 lithium ion batteries x 4.2 volts = 21 volts as you can see each batteries only has to fall 1.2 volts (which = 3 volts ) .
But the battery before cutoff is slightly higher than 3 volts so the charger will recognize for a period of time before the battery drops below 15 volts .At this time the charger will not charge it unless you get the pack above 15 volts .
In Dano case he needs to get his battery a little pass 3 volts .
So looking at this all the power in the battery is used in that 1.2 volts 90 percent there is no or very little power left after 3 volts . You can't run from 4.2 volts down to 0 volts anything under the cutoff voltage and you start to damage the battery . sube
 
Yes, you are right about that. I boned up on the 3.7 volt batteries and previously was comparing them with a much larger capacity battery in my mind. They live quite comfortably within their range and sensitive to overcharge/ under charge and temperature change during charge conditions. His battery simply may not be recoverable. Your method might or might not temporally breathe some life into it but it probably should be replaced.
 
  • The nominal voltage range for a 3.7V lithium-ion battery is between 3.0V and 4.2V. This range is the voltage window in which the battery operates during normal usage. At what voltage should a 3.7V lithium-ion battery be fully charged? A 3.7V lithium-ion battery should be fully charged at 4.2V.
  • This may be what confuses people .
  • I have bought many tool pack batteries that were dead and brought them up to a voltage the charger recognizes them and charged .These packs have lasted for years , But if they are kept in storage at a low voltage to long the batteries capacity suffers and may go dead quickly and drop to low for the charger to recognize it . As Listener says it may be to far gone already , sube
 
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