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Anonymous
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If you cant shoot out his tires before he gets to Leon Springs, Kelly, I will waylay him in Comfort. No way I wont that stuff dumped around Kerrville.
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.. that kinda maybe fits into this whole scenario. Again I say "maybe" because I'm not an actual Tesoro techie/nitpicker who probably does know better -- I just play one on TV <img src="/metal/html/wink.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
">
Of course reducing your Disc to practically nothing does indeed make your detector "act" more sensitive because you're basically making your detector more depth-sensitive and therefore more prone to pick up a whole lot of other stuff you may or may not want to hear.
Anyway, the disc-sens affecting each other is something some people don't make the connection between, and it's not unreasonable that they wouldn't. It's just kinda one of the things you learn along the way. But I always believed that few if anyone really NEEDS to go setting their sens into Max Boost, and in fact, most people would benefit by setting the sens far lower than that because well, the higher you go cranking your Sens dial, the more wanky your disc settings (or the way you THINK your disc setting should act) get. Meaning you end up digging a whole bunch of junk you thought you were disc'ing out in the first place. Plus I'm of the opinion that the higher you crank your Sens, the more you're inviting in the effects of mineralization that you're trying to dial out and overcome in the first place, epecially with a manual GB detector. And unless you recognize the connection between Disc and Sens, you could very well end up wondering why your detector isn't exactly acting you and the manual think it should, even with a manual GB machine. Again, there's that blasted trade-off. Personally, I think about the only best place to crank up the Sens into Max Boost is when hunting the wet freshwater sand/shallows. By and large and *generally* speaking, I think wet freshwater sand is less prone to the problems you'd run into on dry land dirt, plus Max Boosting in that kind of wet sand/shallows **in my opinion**opens up a Tesoro to even greater remarkable depths that you get in the first place in wet sand over dry-land dirt.
IMO, I think an acceptable balance (especially for coinshooters) between those trade-offs you mentioned is if you're running your Disc very low, then crank down the Sens to somewhere between 5-8 and screw around with whatever seems to give you the best depth for your soil. If you're running your Disc on the higher end (say around pull tab level), then crank up your Disc only as high as your dirt allows your detector to remain stable in that dirt.
Scott
">Of course reducing your Disc to practically nothing does indeed make your detector "act" more sensitive because you're basically making your detector more depth-sensitive and therefore more prone to pick up a whole lot of other stuff you may or may not want to hear.
Anyway, the disc-sens affecting each other is something some people don't make the connection between, and it's not unreasonable that they wouldn't. It's just kinda one of the things you learn along the way. But I always believed that few if anyone really NEEDS to go setting their sens into Max Boost, and in fact, most people would benefit by setting the sens far lower than that because well, the higher you go cranking your Sens dial, the more wanky your disc settings (or the way you THINK your disc setting should act) get. Meaning you end up digging a whole bunch of junk you thought you were disc'ing out in the first place. Plus I'm of the opinion that the higher you crank your Sens, the more you're inviting in the effects of mineralization that you're trying to dial out and overcome in the first place, epecially with a manual GB detector. And unless you recognize the connection between Disc and Sens, you could very well end up wondering why your detector isn't exactly acting you and the manual think it should, even with a manual GB machine. Again, there's that blasted trade-off. Personally, I think about the only best place to crank up the Sens into Max Boost is when hunting the wet freshwater sand/shallows. By and large and *generally* speaking, I think wet freshwater sand is less prone to the problems you'd run into on dry land dirt, plus Max Boosting in that kind of wet sand/shallows **in my opinion**opens up a Tesoro to even greater remarkable depths that you get in the first place in wet sand over dry-land dirt.
IMO, I think an acceptable balance (especially for coinshooters) between those trade-offs you mentioned is if you're running your Disc very low, then crank down the Sens to somewhere between 5-8 and screw around with whatever seems to give you the best depth for your soil. If you're running your Disc on the higher end (say around pull tab level), then crank up your Disc only as high as your dirt allows your detector to remain stable in that dirt.
Scott
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Anonymous
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We've all seen accounts of guys finding everything from gold coins to gold jewelry at places (especially those places out in the middle of nowhere) like sports fields, parks, and the woods. But in my experience, the only place you're *most* likely to find gold in any remarkable quantity is in the wet sand/water shallows at the beach. That's the place where the percentages are most likely to play out for you, and that's pretty much why that's the only place I'd expect something I thought might be a nickel would turn out to be gold. Anywhere else beyond that, it depends on how much time I have to hunt to let me spend a lot of time digging the really low-conductive stuff, which for me has *always* turned out to be either small iron or foil. But like you and everyone else, I still welcome that one day when I spent the extra time to futz around with that iffy signal a bit below nickel but quite a bit higher than iron at low/no disc and find my first Indian-head gold -- or better, a tasty little St. Gauden's -- in a place I least expected to find something like that.
Stuff like that makes this hobby the adventure it truly is.
Scott
Stuff like that makes this hobby the adventure it truly is.
Scott
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Anonymous
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Tesoros have an ED120 style disc circuit? The Fisher 1236X2 has a preset iron reject position on the disc knob that works very well allowing you to get rid of most iron and still hear the goodies. For working the iron infested shallows of my fresh water lakes I preferred it over the Tiger Shark. I know I got to get me a Stingray II. <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="">
Tom
">Tom
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Anonymous
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Some models advertised as having an ED-120 had much more low-end range, such as the Golden
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Anonymous
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<STRONG><BIG>#3..</STRONG></BIG> Apply the <EM><STRONG>"Beep-DIG!"</STRONG></EM> approach where you're willing to recover all good sounding targets and any that produce an 'iffy', inquisitive target response.
Many gold jewelry items are very difficult to detect such as small, thin chains, or tiny pendants, baby & children's rings, etc.
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<STRONG><BIG>#2..</STRONG></BIG> Hunt with the lowest discriminate setting you can possibly tollerate.
Not only will higher settings reject many gold targets or cause more 'masking' due to nearby rejected targets, but gold jewelry spreads across a wide span of conductivity ranges due to the thickness, overall size, shape, alloy content and position in the ground. I have found gold jewelry that ran from an iron range on up to three pieces that read-out/had conductive properties similar to a penny/dime or almost a quarter reading.
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<STRONG><BIG>#1..</STRONG></BIG> <STRONG><FONT COLOR="#ff0000"><EM>LOCATION .. LOCATION .. LOCATION!</EM></FONT></STRONG>
You can't find it if it isn't there, and you are always going to have a greater chance of lucking upon some gold jewelry if you hunt the places where it is most likely to have been lost.
Naturally beaches are good, and so are any sunbathing sites, volleyball and other sports activity areas, and any site where there has been human activity.
True, gold is found in picnic areas or yards or all sorts of locations, so you have to consider all the variables, such as the best liklihood for jewelry loss, the volume of human activity at the site, and the difficulty in recovering any targets from an area.
This is definitely an 'off' year for me because I average twelve (12) gold rings per year just from the woodchip and sand-filled playgrounds. We're into the 10th month and I have only recovered 7 gold rings from the woodchips. I have also found some gold bracelets, a gold neck chain, gold pendents and such, but my ring count is way down. (Something I hope to remedy in the next two months as I hunt some areas I have avoided during our long hot summer. Besides, I have been concentrating on older places such as ghost towns where gold jewelry is less often found.
Anyway, it takes an ample amount of patience to get the gold, and in really trashy sites with an abundance of pull tabs you might not care to dig them all and only want to cruise for the higher-conductive coins.
Best of luck to you in your pursuit of the gold!
<EM>Monte
Many gold jewelry items are very difficult to detect such as small, thin chains, or tiny pendants, baby & children's rings, etc.
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<STRONG><BIG>#2..</STRONG></BIG> Hunt with the lowest discriminate setting you can possibly tollerate.
Not only will higher settings reject many gold targets or cause more 'masking' due to nearby rejected targets, but gold jewelry spreads across a wide span of conductivity ranges due to the thickness, overall size, shape, alloy content and position in the ground. I have found gold jewelry that ran from an iron range on up to three pieces that read-out/had conductive properties similar to a penny/dime or almost a quarter reading.
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<STRONG><BIG>#1..</STRONG></BIG> <STRONG><FONT COLOR="#ff0000"><EM>LOCATION .. LOCATION .. LOCATION!</EM></FONT></STRONG>
You can't find it if it isn't there, and you are always going to have a greater chance of lucking upon some gold jewelry if you hunt the places where it is most likely to have been lost.
Naturally beaches are good, and so are any sunbathing sites, volleyball and other sports activity areas, and any site where there has been human activity.
True, gold is found in picnic areas or yards or all sorts of locations, so you have to consider all the variables, such as the best liklihood for jewelry loss, the volume of human activity at the site, and the difficulty in recovering any targets from an area.
This is definitely an 'off' year for me because I average twelve (12) gold rings per year just from the woodchip and sand-filled playgrounds. We're into the 10th month and I have only recovered 7 gold rings from the woodchips. I have also found some gold bracelets, a gold neck chain, gold pendents and such, but my ring count is way down. (Something I hope to remedy in the next two months as I hunt some areas I have avoided during our long hot summer. Besides, I have been concentrating on older places such as ghost towns where gold jewelry is less often found.
Anyway, it takes an ample amount of patience to get the gold, and in really trashy sites with an abundance of pull tabs you might not care to dig them all and only want to cruise for the higher-conductive coins.
Best of luck to you in your pursuit of the gold!
<EM>Monte
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for the list of machines and notes on performance of the various models.
HH, Tom
HH, Tom
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As a park hunter, I have largely given up on digging tabs to get a gold ring as it has been pretty fruitless. I have scored a couple solid gold bands in the nickel range though, after digging tons of nickels and half tabs. Keep rolling the dice and eventually I think a ring will pop up for you. You might try digging foil signals, as greater numbers of gold rings register as foil than nickel, though they will contain less gold than the higher signals (but maybe a diamond).
Speaking of funny nickel signals, I got a solid steel bottle cap (iron) hit around 5" on my Explorer. In repeated passes from different angles it was bottle cap or foil signal, never hit higher. I wasn't getting many bottle caps so dug it anyway.
Turned out to be a silver war nickel at just over 4" and a bit tilted! The dirt seemed normal. Usually I get excellent ID on coins and objects at that depth. Nickels deeper than that usually ID better, and the silver ones a little higher yet.
Just goes to show that anomalies are a normal part of detecting.
Speaking of funny nickel signals, I got a solid steel bottle cap (iron) hit around 5" on my Explorer. In repeated passes from different angles it was bottle cap or foil signal, never hit higher. I wasn't getting many bottle caps so dug it anyway.
Turned out to be a silver war nickel at just over 4" and a bit tilted! The dirt seemed normal. Usually I get excellent ID on coins and objects at that depth. Nickels deeper than that usually ID better, and the silver ones a little higher yet.
Just goes to show that anomalies are a normal part of detecting.
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Anonymous
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the Pantera, the Bandido, the Bandido II
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Anonymous
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Not sure about black cinders don't know what they consist of.
But the coal I refer to has very similar characteristics to foil of varying grades.
The matrix is like checking I would guess in some sort of powdered foil composition if that would be possible.
It varies around here according to how thick a layer or the mix of it with dirt etc and how many chuncks of coal are mixed in it.
only thing i would do is check gb over the cinders
and bury a coin and do some checking on responses
with various settings. All metal and discriminate.
HH
Dan R.
But the coal I refer to has very similar characteristics to foil of varying grades.
The matrix is like checking I would guess in some sort of powdered foil composition if that would be possible.
It varies around here according to how thick a layer or the mix of it with dirt etc and how many chuncks of coal are mixed in it.
only thing i would do is check gb over the cinders
and bury a coin and do some checking on responses
with various settings. All metal and discriminate.
HH
Dan R.
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Anonymous
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Wow Monte, thanks for all the info. I will need to learn more about identifying negative or positive ground conditions. I see you have alot of experience with various Tesoros and know from other forums you have used a ton of other makes models as well.
I am wondering if you've spent time using a Coinstrike? It is one detector that the mfgr. specifically claims is designed for finding deep coins in mineralized ground and trash.
One thing I am hoping is for is to find sites where the deeper old coins actually outnumber the shallow coins. I think it is very possible since the bad ground around here must have discouraged detecting with the technology as it was in the 70's and 80's. I own some 80's-90's "Coinmasters" and manual GB is a royal pain with those here! The early detectorists probably took the shallow clad and shallow silver but doubt they got down to the high grade Barbers! I think those machines were passing over the coins over 4", which now are maybe 8+" or something.
I am wondering if you've spent time using a Coinstrike? It is one detector that the mfgr. specifically claims is designed for finding deep coins in mineralized ground and trash.
One thing I am hoping is for is to find sites where the deeper old coins actually outnumber the shallow coins. I think it is very possible since the bad ground around here must have discouraged detecting with the technology as it was in the 70's and 80's. I own some 80's-90's "Coinmasters" and manual GB is a royal pain with those here! The early detectorists probably took the shallow clad and shallow silver but doubt they got down to the high grade Barbers! I think those machines were passing over the coins over 4", which now are maybe 8+" or something.