The Old SE Is Sick

[K.B.]

Awhile back the old SE that has made some nice finds, (not a fan of the 12 line) began Falsing out in the woods no matter the sens setting or changing coils and continually became worse to the point of retirement. Lately I've been looking for a fix. Some say it's a shielding problem. I have the tools, materials and aptitude to get her up and running. So if you've experienced this or can point me forward a fix, I would be quite thankful.

 

[david.di]

Awhile back the old SE that has made some nice finds, (not a fan of the 12 line) began Falsing out in the woods no matter the sens setting or changing coils and continually became worse to the point of retirement. Lately I've been looking for a fix. Some say it's a shielding problem. I have the tools, materials and aptitude to get her up and running. So if you've experienced this or can point me forward a fix, I would be quite thankful.

Hi K.B.
Do this at your own risk. I hope it helps you out.

Remove the battery.
Open the control box (look for the 4 screws that it has to keep it together).
Carefully separate by prying them from each other the PCB’s that are attached to each other by the connecting pins. Check if the gold pins are still intact.
Also re-seat by separating carefully and reconnectingh any of the control panel ribbon cables.

Highly unlikely but while you are there do a continuity test to check if the coil connector wires integrity. They are the pairs and one earth soldered to the last PCB to the coil connection point outside of the control box.

When you re assemble, take note that the screws are being wound into plastic and you should try and make sure that you try and re utilize the original thread of the screw lugs.

The control panel buttons are also a source of some problems. They are difficult to repair and other than replacing the control panel face with a new one the only thing would be to replace the defective individual buttons with momentary surface mounted ones.
I managed a few years ago to separate and re stick the control panel Mylar back on after I thought I have fixed the bent out of shape springs that are the connectors of the 3 buttons that are in there but only lasted a short time.
Ultimately I just used momentary buttons I stuck on the stock modified Explorer XS I had.

David Di

 

[Picketwire]

When my T2 got overly "sparky", I sprayed the coil contact pins with detoxit and that calmed it down.

 

[K.B.]

I've been switching 4 coils between my SE and my Etrac for quite a while. All 4 coils operate normal on my Etrac but not one of these remedy the SE falsing issue. So that rules out the coils. When my SE becomes unstable/ falsing, the cursor stays on the 00-30 line from the top down to mid-screen, like it's detecting positive hot rocks. I've tried factory reset, all different settings, noise cancel. Even falses with coil over head. More than once lately my Etrac began faIsing for no reason. I disconnected the coil cable and blew into both connections and it operated normal for the remainder of the day. The above procedure had no affect on my SE.

 

[K.B.]

Hi K.B.
Do this at your own risk. I hope it helps you out.

Remove the battery.
Open the control box (look for the 4 screws that it has to keep it together).
Carefully separate by prying them from each other the PCB’s that are attached to each other by the connecting pins. Check if the gold pins are still intact.
Also re-seat by separating carefully and reconnectingh any of the control panel ribbon cables.

Highly unlikely but while you are there do a continuity test to check if the coil connector wires integrity. They are the pairs and one earth soldered to the last PCB to the coil connection point outside of the control box.

When you re assemble, take note that the screws are being wound into plastic and you should try and make sure that you try and re utilize the original thread of the screw lugs.

The control panel buttons are also a source of some problems. They are difficult to repair and other than replacing the control panel face with a new one the only thing would be to replace the defective individual buttons with momentary surface mounted ones.
I managed a few years ago to separate and re stick the control panel Mylar back on after I thought I have fixed the bent out of shape springs that are the connectors of the 3 buttons that are in there but only lasted a short time.
Ultimately I just used momentary buttons I stuck on the stock modified Explorer XS I had.

David Di

I opened up the control box and ohmed out the 5 male connector pins and found no brakes. Before closing it up I made sure all pins and connectors were clean. I might send it off for repair.