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Sovereign ID Chart (Most Extensive Yet)

Critterhunter

New member
I put together the latest version of my custom ID chart. I found a few other ID numbers for coins listed that I didn't have before, hence the update. All listings in bold are my own readings. Listings not in bold are what I've found on the net. Until I can confirm those myself I'm keeping them listed this way, as I've found my readings in noise band 2 differ on things like nickles, which is the band that is supposed to make the readings correct with older Sovereigns. I've also listed any coins twice in some instances where two different sources state a different number for them. Again, until I do my own testing of those coins I'm listing the numbers from both sources.

I normaly cut out the ID chart and the tips chart and tape them front and back to a piece of carboard with clear box tape to protect it in the field. It makes it handy to refresh my memory on certain numbers. More details on the pulltab and rings percentages listed can be found in my other thread called something like "Splitting Hairs On Ring VDI Numbers". It makes it handy to quickly reference these percentages of pulltabs and where rings tend to read by quickly looking at the chart while in the field.

If anybody has any numbers that differ greatly please feel free to list them.

I don't feel like trying to figure out why Findmall is screwing with the size of of the chart, I'd say just load it into paint and then use the stretch/skew function to adjust it's size to something small enough to fit in your pocket, yet not so small that it's hard to see. Probably a 35 horizontal, 35 vertical will get it to a good small size.
 
I've got a few PMs from people who couldn't figure out how to shrink the above pictures down to something they can easily carry. I'm emailing them the chart in Word format. That way they can edit it to their liking or use the print preferences to shrink it to a size they want. The regular printout size of the chart using Word should be small enough for most people, though. Mainly I need to confirm some of the double listings for certain coin IDs by my own testing so I can edit out the extra listings on it which would automaticly make it smaller. Still, it should be small enough for most people printed in word. If you would like a copy send me your email address so I can attach the file. You'd then be able to edit it down the road with various numbers more to your liking, such as common trash target numbers in your area and such.
 
I've just updated the chart with a few things. Mainly I found a silver 3 cent piece scanned in at 170 for me. Once again this differs greatly from older charts I've seen yet I'm using Noise Band 2 that is supposed to match my GT to those older Sovereigns. Somebody also sent me (thanks) a few war nickle readings since I haven't had a chance to scan those yet. The chart is still rather large due to the redundant listings (mine are in bold) from other charts until I get a chance to confirm or correct their readings. For instance, a 3 cent piece reads 170 for me while they had it listed at 166. Nickles for me are also different along with some other stuff.

I think I figured out the right way to upload this chart this time to where it should print right out at a decent size for people that isn't too big or too small. Still, if you want to re-size it just load it into Paint and use the stretch/skew function. Excuse the mental note I'm listing for myself here because I don't want to forget what I did...

Great online convertor is at...

http://createpdf.neevia.com/

Once the Wordperfect file was converted to JPEG pictures I then loaded them into paint and reduced the size to 75%.

That should keep me from having to figure all this stuff out all over again like I always do.

EDIT: Once again the site does funky things to picture sizes. I just figured out what to do, though. Load the picture into Paint and reduce stretch/skew it to 35% for both horizontal and vertical. Then print that out using paint and it should be a decent size for most people. It's still a little bulky but that will change when I delete some of these extra listings. Tape it to a piece of cardboard with clear box tape and that will protect it from mud/water in the field.
 
I've already noticed that it's indeed possible to split hairs on silver dimes having only dug two thus far. I calibrate the Minelab meter on a clad dime up to 181 and then back it down just a hair to where it now just barely reads 180. In other words, so that it's "near the top" of the 180 number like maybe 180.9. When I dug the Merc with the 15x12 coil the other day the meter was bouncing up to 181 here and there. Not only that but I could just tell this was going to be my first silver dime with the GT by it's sweeter/smoother audio which sounds a little less harsh or "bangs" less than a clad dime. Then, over the weekend, I once again came across another signal that sounded just like this, but this time it never bumped up to 181 here and there. I thought "Sure sounds like silver, maybe it's a worn dime." Called my friend over and he swept it with his 6000 Pro XL. Sure enough, he said it was reading just a hair lower than a silver dime and that he also thought it would be a worn silver. Yes, it was...1908D barber dime.

I'm well pleased with the fact that it seems I can split hairs on coins some with this machine, or at least have a good idea of what I'm about to dig up. I've also noticed the same thing for copper pennies...They will either stay at 179 or at least bounce down into that number here and there. I would also suspect that (using a clad dime to calibrate like above) clad quarters, silver quarters, large cents, and of course silver dollars and halfs might also very well hit 181 with every other sweep. I haven't air tested this yet to prove my theory but I think the above results might not show up air testing because the coins might lack that little bit of hallow to push them over the 180 threshold.

If anybody else has any information to add about how they "split hairs on coins" I'd like to hear it. I'm just shocked that the GT has such distinct audio that I can even hear the difference between a 180 clad dime and a 180 worn silver dime. Imagine what you can do with gold rings once you've practiced what they sound like compared to pulltabs and other trash.
 
unless you're talking about a silver canadian 5 cent they won't read 180. it's been a while since i've found one but the ww2 variety i believe read maybein the 160's.
 
Hmmmm....That isn't my reading but I believe (?) there is a silver 5 cent piece from back in the 1800s that they are probably refering to? It's not the war nickles with less silver. Now I'll have to check my coin book to see. Just always assumed that.
 
that would be the half dime. i checked the chart to see if it was on there because i've never found one, its listed down in the zinc range. wish i could find some places to find some. most of mine don't even go back to late seated time.
 
I dug a half dime from the 1800s years ago. Really shocked me that I found that. I've also dug a silver 3 cent piece which is VERY tiny as well. Yes, I'm aware of half dimes but I wouldn't think they'd read as high as 180 either. I could have swore there was a silver 5 cent piece much larger than a half dime being produced for a small amount of time in the 1800s? Maybe I am confusing that with a Canadian coin, but like I said that reading is off a chart I found on the web. That's why those targets are not listed in bold because I just don't trust them having seen other things read higher for me.
 
This is mostly a re-post from the 15x12 thread but I want to start posting various target respone info in this thread to go along with this chart as a general reference guide...

The other day I'm hunting around when I hit a "penny" signal of 176. It sounds smooth and perfectly IDs from any direction. I dig down 4 or 5" and I see the edge of a silver dime in the plug. Turned out it was a 1917D merc. I was curious why it read 4 digits lower than 180 so I stick my ProPointer in the hole and sure enough I get another signal. Out pops a Buffalo! It appears the low conductivity nickle drew the silver 180 signal down a bit. I've found in my mask testing of low conductivity targets such as iron, pull tabs, or nickles with a silver dime that I'll either get a perfect 180 signal or a slightly averaged signal around 176 like the above. It largely depends on how the two are laying in relation with each other.

Another five or so feet away I get yet another good signal, but his one is climbing to 180 and then dropping like a house of cards, only to begin steadily climbing to 180 again and then collapsing like a house of cards again. The signal sounded good and smooth despite the falling numbers over and over again as it reached it's peak at 180 and then fell. I think it was either dropping down to like 174 or maybe 10 or 20 digits below 180 (can't remember) but the audio stays high and smooth. I don't think the audio falls with the numbers. Also, the falling numbers are "in order" in that I don't think it drops, bounces up a little, drops some more, etc. In other words, it's not a random jumpy VDI like trash or say a screw cap that might go down/up two or three digits but not in a uniform steadily dropping and then steadily climbing progressive number pattern like this target was doing. Also, with trash or screw caps the audio is never quite there, meaning staying smooth and constant despite what the VDI says. Screw caps or other trash's audio, even if it stays high, will mix in a "warbly" sort'a sick sound that is very telling. Not this target, though...it sounded nice and smooth and good despite what the VDI was doing. Like I said, that I can remember it doesn't even drop in tone but stays at a "180" sound, though I could be wrong from memory.

Having read a lot of threads on older non-GT Sovereigns people say a real deep coin will act this way....climbing slowly as you do the Sovereign wiggle and either staying there or dropping down and then climbing back up again. This is the first time I've experienced this on the GT, as most say so long as the GT can hear the target even at the fringes of depth it will lock solidly onto the correct ID number. This target sounded deep and real soft but that also threw me off, because from my experience the GT will get softer as the target gets deeper up to about 6" or so and then will go into some kind of "amp" mode where targets get loud again past a certain depth. I can hear the amped "white noise" in the background when it does this as I do the wiggle. Since I wasn't hearing the white noise hiss and the target was somewhat soft I thought it was about six inches or so maybe.

Anyway, I go into pinpoint and find that I've got a double image, or at least two targets, because the pinpoint would sound off faintly to "two" targets 3 or 4" apart from each other. I pick one and dig down about 5" or so and pop the plug. At the bottom of the hole I see a silver dime laying about 75% on edge. Turned out it was a 1911 Barber! Then I realized two things. The double image was because the coin was on edge, as I've seen this effect on other machines too. The coin being on edge was the reason it sounded this soft (but still plenty loud enough) and also the reason why the 180 signal kept getting there and then collapsing. As I said, it does this in an orderly fashion and might be dropping into the 150's or 160's before climbing again but from memory it might have only been falling to like 176 or maybe the low 170's from any direction but would then always steadily climb to 180 before repeating the process. As I also said, the audio was smooth and I think keeping a "180" tone but in either respect it was still nice and sweet/smooth/soft, without the warbly or sick sound of screw caps or other trash, nor the jumpy uniform VDI that will bounce around as it hits 180 and doesn't seem to follow it's self steadily down or up the scale like this coin did. Keep that in mind when digging "iffy" coin signals. The VDI might rise and fall but the audio is very good, and the VDI pattern is distinctly different than jumpy trash. In my testing of coins or rings on edge I found most if not all gave perfect and proper audio and VDI numbers, but I suspect at 5 or 6" deep like this dime or deeper they might only do the above in certain specific situations.

So then yesterday I go on another silver hunt and hit a mowed grass field where we've gridded/pounded with numerous machines over the years. I was only there about an hour and decided to just cherry pick any perfect coin signals. As a result I only dug about 6 or 7 targets, and most of those I knew were trash because they weren't perfect in audio or VDI despite my intentions to be picky with targets. I was doing this because I figured the 15x12 could really prove it's doing better than other coils at either unmasking shallow coins or finding real deep ones that I knew both existed in this field. I dug a square aluminum token with some writing on it about something saying "1 Free Cake" with other writing I haven't cleaned up yet. Then I get a perfect nickle sound/vdi, which I think was either 145 or 146 with the number. I knew it was going to be a nickle, just was wondering if it was going to be a buffalo, V, or maybe my first ever shield nickle. At about 5 to 6" deep I figured it could be any of these or maybe even a clad because they sink fast here. Pop it out and it's very shinny. Knew right away what it was and sure enough- 1945 silver war nickle! Kept my silver streak alive with this coil. So far I think that makes four hunts hunting silver and these great coil has produced each time
 
If anybody has any coin traits/responses to offer information on that they've found please post it. Also, I'd like to hear about your iffy or bad coin signals that turned out to be coins and why you think they weren't perfect for you. Make sure to say which machine you were using because deep coins might respond differently on the GT than older Sovereigns. Thanks.

While we're at it, I'd like to hear about your good finds, coins or not, that gave you bad signals for one reason or another. Those sort of stories give people inspiration to dig the "junk".
 
Here's the ring VDI chart with further info that relates to the above chart and where the numbers came from for tabs and rings...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1096415,page=1
 
A few people have recently asked me where this chart was, so I figured I'd bump it up. It's still a work in progress. I have other coins to test and verify or correct the non-bold VDI number listings that I found on other charts. The stuff in bold is what I've found on my GT with Minelab DigiSearch meter, the only one being sold by anybody as the moment besides that internal meter.

Also, something of interest that I never see people point out. The fact that the Sovereign meters can be calibrated to different coils and changing ground conditions makes them probably the most precise machines on the market in terms of a reliable VDI #. What people often don't tell you about other machines and the aftermarket coils for them is that target IDs can be thrown off slightly. Not so with a Sovereign! I like to calibrate the meter a touch more when doing my buried dime test to calibrate sensitivity. Slight variations in ground content can cause numbers to drift a hair.
 
Excellent posts critterhunter, and much appreciated. I have a question. Why are there no silver rings listed on your chart, or am I missing them. Thanks loads for all your work and input on helping us understand what the meter and sounds are telling us. regards
Ed
 
Because just about all silver rings will read 180, like a silver coin. There are a few very thin ones that might only make it up to about 176 (penny), but most will hit "COIN" on any machine.
 
I am trying to make a point to post any target response data in this thread to go along with the chart. I've already started doing that a while back but have been kind'a posting this stuff in other threads. I'll try to be more organized with related info in the right threads, because this makes it much more handy as a resource when people are wanting to learn specific things.

What I'd like to relate right now is something that I've noticed before but never really heard anybody cover it. It concerns coin response at the very outter fringe of detection depth, or at least coins that are fairly deep. First, it's important to investigate any deeper/softer response you hear. For me it's much easier to identify those deeper targets by having the volume all the way down. I'm sure it differs depending on headphones but these $20 Sony Studio Phones from Walmart don't seem to give me as good of audio on targets if I blast the volume on the machine all the way up, so for right now I prefer it all the way down. The scale from shallow to deep in terms of volume seems much more pronounced for me that way, yet I can still hear the deepest of targets without any problem, though of course they are softer than more shallow targets.

The Minelab techs recommend hunting at full volume on the machine so keep that in mind, yet I have yet to find a real deep target with full volume that when I turned the volume all the way down I couldn't hear just fine. If anything, if your headphones have a volume control then it's probably best to turn the volume on the Sovereign all the way up and then lower it on your headphones to a comfortable level. Mainly, most people would probably lower it enough to where surface targets aren't louder than what is comfortable for you. A good feature on some headphones is something called a limiter circuit which reduces the volume of surface blasts, and thus can provide louder audio than what would be the norm for deeper targets. You can crank up the volume on deeper stuff to hear it better, yet the circuit will reduce the volume of anything near the surface or large so that you aren't blasted when you hear those targets.

Anyway, with that bit of info out of the way I can get to the deep target response I have noticed in the past but really paid attention to today. It's first important to cover proper coil investigation techniques for deeper targets. Try to train yourself to notice any deep/soft sound off as you hunt. When you hear something like that, don't assume it's a junk target based on it's initial response. Even if you continue to sweep over that area often the target will not produce the proper ID and audio response until you've investigated it more thoroughly. For checking out these deeper/softer targets you should abandon your normal "searching for your next target" sweep method and now go into short, medium to fast sweeps directly over the target. The width of your sweep (more like a wiggle now) should be roughly 2 to 6", probably some where in the 3 to 5" range.

Here's the thing, some times the deep target will prefer as fast and tight of a wiggle as you can humanly manage. Other times, like today for me, the Sovereign will prefer something around a medium speed of "wiggle" and not nearly as tight as you can manage. 3 to 5" wide is a good ball park, and just about a medium wiggle, perhaps leaning more on the faster side. Still, when I tried to do my normal as tight as possible and as fast as possible wiggle I found the target today would vanish or at least degrade in it's response qualities. I attribute this to the ultra dry conditions and the higher mineral content of this particular site I was hunting.

So how do you know if you should go real fast/as tight as possible, or drop down to a medium speed (maybe even a hair slower than that) and a more wide "wiggle", more like a short sweep back and fourth over the target? Let the target tell you what it wants on that particular day. Try fast/tight, then move to a wider/slower short type of sweep. Regardless of what the conditions warrant as described above, keep using that wiggle or short sweep constantly while checking the target out. Don't stop or you will lose the "intense look" type of mode that the Sovereign seems to go into when it's investigating targets at depth. I've related this before but it almost feels like the Sovereign goes into some kind of "amped" mode when it's tuning into a deeper target like this while you are doing the wiggle (or short sweep, if you want to call it that when it gets less tight). I can often hear some form of "white noise" in the background like the target is being magnified by some form of signal boost. I don't know if this is really what's happening or not, but for all practical purposes it sure sounds like it to me.

Now, when you go to wiggle over the deep target to investigate it and try to draw the best response out of it in audio and ID, it's also very important to place the coil properly. I like to slowly walk the coil towards the target as I do the above wiggle or short sweep type of deal until it seems to be giving me it's best response. Continue past that point and see if it improves anymore. If not then walk the coil back again real slow as you wiggle and pay very close attention to where it's best. Continue to walk the coil back towards you and see if it gets better, but more than likely it's getting worse now. Make a mental note of that spot where it gave the best response and do it all over again, noting where that spot is. What I like to do is use the tip of the coil to mark that spot when using these SEF coils. I also prefer to do the same method with the stock 10" coil but I use the tail of the coil for this. Anyway, in this case today using the 12x10 SEF coil I will walk the coil towards my feet until the target goes away, then slowly walk the coil forward until I just get the right response for it. Note that often a very deep coin on any coil might not want to give it's best response until the very center of the coil is over it. That's fine, because all you care about now is marking the targets location, since you've already confirmed it's worth checking out more with your intial investigation of it.

Now that you've marked that spot in your mind and are eyeing it on the ground, right where the target is starting to give proper ID with the tip (or tail of the 10" in that case), just notice if the target won't give you the best response until you advance the coil say another 4 or 5". If it does no matter, just begin to approach it again from far away and then make a mental note of when the target first starts give some kind of response. Now move 90 degrees in relation to that spot and approach the target again with the edge of the coil. You may want to give centered over that spot with the coil to check it out from this direction to insure it's giving a good response that way as well. Iron almost never gives a good response from two different angles, yet keep in mind that a real deep coin often will only respond good from one direction too. Regardless, once you've decided to dig this target (or even if you haven't yet) move the coil away from it again and walk it towards it doing the wiggle (or short sweep) method. Note where it gives it's best response, or at least where it seems to be sounded off but perhaps won't give it's best response unless the middle of the coil is over it. As a sidenote, I have yet to find a deep coin that the very tip of the coil couldn't see just as well as the center thanks to a double D's design. In fact, often a target will only give it's best response for me when I'm investigating it with the tip (or tail) edge of the coil. More than likely this is due to nearby iron or other trash that would otherwise be under the coil if you are using the center of the coil to investigate it. I like using the edge of the coil when checking out a target's quality doing the wiggle and walk, and I for sure prefer to pinpoint with that edge to.

OK, so you've made a mental note of where the target is from one direction, and you have done so again from a 90 degree right angle to that. Are they in the same spot? If not then re-check it's location where you stand now (the second position you checked it out with). Once found then change 90 degrees and once again walk the coil to it. Are they both in the same spot now? If not that can some times mean iron, but it could also be iron next to a coin, two coins in the ground, or even a single coin standing on end. If you can't pin down an exact location because both angles tell you it's somewhere else, then flip over to PP mode and re-check the target from both directions that way as well, walking the coil and wiggling or short sweeping just like you did before. For whatever reason some times pinpoint mode will give you an exact location, while other times you can't even hear the target in PP mode or due to the ground matrix PP sounds off over a wide or random area. Other times PP will narrow the target down when discriminate can't and vise versa. I prefer to PP in discriminate mode on targets at depth as often I can't hear them in PP mode, or nearby trash will throw me off from my intended target. That's when discriminate is deadly at picking the right one and not sounding off to trash, iron, or even ground minerals and hot rocks like PP can.

(CONTINUED IN NEXT MESSAGE)
 
Alright, now we can get to the meat of investigating deep targets like this to bring out the best ID, and how they more often than not will react and sound. As I said, coil placement is critical. There will be one exact spot usually where the target is going to give it's best ID and audio to you. Move off that spot by even a quarter to a half an inch and it destroys the quality of it. Whether that's due to nearby trash, mineral content, iron, or even just that you are hitting the target with the strongest part of the detection field, where as moving off a hair is hitting it with weaker eddy currents, is any body's guess. I just know that if you move off by even a little bit the target's quality can go way down. You need to pay close attention to where you are wiggling or short sweeping, and if you are aimed right at that "best spot" or if you are perhaps off to the left or write a bit, which will also degrade target quality. Even slight error in "aim" can mean the difference between a great sounding and IDing deep silver signal and something that sounds and ID's like a crunched up old pull tab or worse.

Now, let's get to the real point of today's tip. All the above stuff is very important and is the foundation for this next thing, concerning the type of audio one might expect from that deep potential coin. This is what really hit me today. I knew it before but never really soaked in just how it sounds. I had located a rather deep sounding coin signal and using all the above technique I was getting a a decent signal from it from two different directions. Approach it from any other variation there of and it didn't sound nearly as good. You've got to circle that target and do all the above, looking to find at least two ways it will sound good or more. When that happens the odds of it being iron goes way down, as iron often will only sound off from one way. Still, some very deep coins will null or sound bad from all directions but one too, but when you've got several directions working for you in the way of a good signal then you can start dreaming about what kind of coin it might be.

Sorry, I keep building up to the entire point and then wandering off into more tips related to it. The thing I really wanted to convey is the sound of that deep coin. As you do the wiggle or short sweep (again, either as fast and tight as you can manage on some days, but wider and slower on others), pay close attention to the audio. Most deep fringe coins will make a rather unique sound as you do all the above over them. In Explorer circles they call it a "flutey" type tone. I don't know if I would call this response on the Sovereign flutey. Well, I guess some might, but I think a more descriptive word would be "fluttery". On the Sovereign if it is indeed a deep coin as you wiggle/short sweep over it you'll hear what I would even call a "Ding, Ding, Ding" type of sound that kind of "flutters" SLIGHTLY up and down in this highest of highest tones the Sovereign makes. It almost sounds like some pinball machines when you are really racking up a lot of constant fast points. A constant "Ding, Ding, Ding" it a fluttery and perhaps you might call it "flutey" type of audio. It's unique, and I have yet to see deep iron or other trash give exactly this type of response.

It's very hard to manage on deep coins because you are already having a hard time getting them to give up the proper ID and audio for you. That's why correct coil placement and constant wiggle or short sweeping AT THE RIGHT SPEED is critical. Play with that speed and just how tight or wide the wiggle or short sweep needs to be as you creep the coil along. When you get in that "zone" where you hear the above response hold it there. Now do your 90 degree move, noting where that spot was, and see if it gives you it the other way too. If it does then you can start getting excited about what it might be. Again, I prefer using the tip of the SEF for this, noting best response as I just start to approach the target will then mean the spot to dig is right at the tip of the "V" at it's base. Like I said, I'll then move 90 degrees and look to get the same type of unique response in about the same spot, but even if the target will only do this very unique audio response from one direction I'm digging it. You'll see it's different than the "ghostly" response that iron gives, and has various other traits in both ID and audio that the two don't exactly match in respect to each other.

So how do you learn and practice this deep coin response? Well, the obvious and probably best way would be to head out to a spot where you know deeper wheats still roam a certain field in good numbers. Lacking that, you can just place a coin on the ground and then do the wiggle deal from way up in the air, slowly bring the coil closer (down) to the coin until you just start getting a response from it. Don't come closer to try to clean the signal up. You can't do that in real life. Instead, try to maneuver the coil slightly forward or back until you start to get a coin response with a high tone to break through. Position the coil precisely until it cleans up the audio and you start getting a 180 (or at least mid to high 170's) type of VDI #. Pay attention to this unique sound and it's constant "racking up" of "points" type deal almost like you are playing a pinball machine, or at least I would say. Once you hear this "fluttery" type of "Ding Ding Ding" back and fourth or "up and down" type of tone you'll know exactly how distinct it is. Even if you can only muster this response from one way on a deep target it is different from iron in several ways, both ID and audio, and so when you master what to look for you'll be digging it even if it only makes the sound in one certain spot from one certain direction.

Now, to finish up, let me just say that not all deep coins are going to do this. When they get ultra fringe, a bit beyond the edge of what the Sovereign can detect, you may only get an ID in the 140's or 150's or so, or it will make it up to 180 (or at least near that), but it will take it's good old time doing that. Not always, though. Some of the really fringe ones can't even climb. They'll linger in the 130s, 140s, or maybe the 150s or 160s, but you'll note how they constantly try to climb like real deep ones do when they can get to 180. Sure, the progression of numbers can be somewhat random, but it's far less random than say iron or other junk that is giving you a false coin hit. Also, a deep coin that keeps trying to climb in audio may in fact fall through the basement into negative numbers. They often will do this as a pattern. Climbing, perhaps getting to 180, and then suddenly it's basement city with a negative number, but the distinct climbing pattern then repeats it's self. False coin spikes from iron will visit that "basement" of negative numbers far more often than a real coin will, and as said will not progress in it's climb in as uniform of a pattern as a coin. The iron won't have as much rhyme or reason to it's "pattern" as it climbs, but you can see the more uniform progress of a coin's climb. It's not quite as random. One final note on all this. Not all deep coins will have to climb. The deep wheat I hit today would instantly ring in at like 178 to 180, and bounce back and fourth for the most part between those two numbers. Sure, it would occasional give me a lower number, but often this was accompanied by bad audio due to me drifting off the target as I did the wiggle, or short sweep in today's case that this site wanted. You MUST keep this motion going constantly to draw the best response out of it.

So I'm getting that fluttery type "ding ding ding", racking up points, or whatever you want to call this sound from two directions. If I approach this target from any other way it would not produce a coin signal, but it was good (but hard to draw out with the constant motion and work) from two other ways. I dig down and at 7.5" I pop a wheat. Now, you might be saying no big deal for the Sovereign to get that deep, but I'm talking bone dry black powdery type dirt (the kind that looks to contain tiny hot rocks) where you are lucky to get that kind of depth on any machine when it's this dry. Yet, it was easy enough to draw the signal out of this wheat. Had it been another inch or so deeper I probably would have got it. For sure if the ground had any kind of moisture content to it I bet another 2 or 3" wouldn't have been a problem. Keep in mind that this was with a rather low sensitivity level, and also keep in mind that any other machine I've used at this location would be lucky to get a wheat that deep under the best of conditions, meaning wet soil. So I'm quite happy with the Sovereign's effort on this coin, as well as the 12x10 coil thus far.
 
I've covered this before but it's worth going over again as well as giving finer details concerning it. It is possible to calibrate the meter to have silver coins give a unique ID response. Two ways can be used to go about doing this. One is to take a silver dime and place it on the ground, then sweep over it and adjust the meter very precisely to where the VDI response will hit 181 every two or three sweeps. Or, you can just set it to where it just barely gives a 181 response every sweep. The key to both is to adjust the meter to where it's just able to do that. The same method can be done with a clad dime. Adjust the meter down from 181 to where it just barely reports a constant 180 response to it. The key is that you are adjusting the meter down from 181 so that in reality the clad dime is for all intended purposes probably reading somewhere in the 180.8 or so range, had the meter had an extra m/v (1/10th of a volt) digit to show that...which the stock Digisearch Minelab meter of course does not. Calibration is critical and can be quite a pain to get set just right. Based on your calibration a clad quarter might read 181, or at least hit that here and there, which can be useful when clad hunting. However, I've adjusted it at times where a clad quarter still gives a 180 response, while a silver dime will read 181 or at least hit that number every other sweep. It's slightly higher in conductivity, and as a result any other coins (silver quarters, large cents, etc) that are at least as conductive as a silver dime or higher will read 181, or at least hit that some times while sweeping over it. It's a very informative and unique way to identify silver coins. While paying close attention to the audio or even the normal calibration of the meter does have other clues to tip you off, it's far easy to just watch for that 181 here and there. Normally when it's adjusted with this fine of precision the meter at rest when it resets off and on while sweeping will read -507. Other times it may read the normal -506, but that setting is adjusted a little on edge with the meter POT to where any increase in conductivity will tip the scales over to 181.

For all the above reasons I feel that it may in fact be possible (in theory) to use a meter with a fourth m/v number after the decimal point. Let's put it this way- In theory a volt meter (which is all these Sovereign meters are) raises by one digit when the voltage output (conductivity of a target) passes a certain threshold. You might imagine the meter's internal electronics measuring the voltage output of the Sovereign in relation to what ID (voltage) it should show. As an example, let's say a pull tab reads 152 on the meter. You sweep over that tab in various ways and based on it's shape the coil sees slightly higher conductivity values. The internal measurement of the meter is not ticking upward in numbers.... 152.5, 152.7, 152.9, and then finally you sweep over it in such a way that more of the tab is being seen by the coil, and so the meter internally finally sees 152.9 tick over to 153 and displays that number on the screen.

There must be a form of scaling in this respect that the Sovereign is putting out in at least that respect. Well, I guess one can argue that the "52" portion of 152 is the 1/10th factor, but the numbers aren't real important here. It's scaling up in voltage based on the conductivity of the target, flipping over to the next digit up once that conductivity or voltage passes a certain threshold. I've never been real good at decimal placement, but I would guess that the fourth potential digit would be 1/1000th of a volt. The "5" would be 1/10th, the "2" would be 1/100th.

Just because a volt meter has the ability to display that fourth number after the decimal doesn't mean it's got the internal resolution or precision to read and display it properly. That scaling or grading is based on tolerance levels and resolution of the meter, which is often described in the technical specs for it. It's all only a theory at this time but I would think with a very precise and capable volt meter it can sense these slight changes in voltage (conductivity) output from the Sovereign and make very well be able to show slight variations with that fourth digit in terms of target conductivity. Hence a clad dime might be 180.2, a clad quarter 180.6, and say a silver dime shows 180.9.

I plan to investigate some volt meters from electronic supply stores and see if I can find one at a reasonable price that has very precise resolution in this respect. Depending on how much scaling the Sovereign is putting out, it may be possible to use a meter with high enough resolution and precision to see these slight differences in target conductivity. I have no idea how much scaling the Sovereign is able to achieve in it's output, but I would figure it must exist in some type of level in order to change the output voltage from one digit to the other. How much is in between one number versus the next highest is the big question here. I plan to conduct some tests on the output VDI ID pin of the GT and see exactly what it's able to achieve in various near same conductivity targets. When I have something to report I'll post it.

I have an idea for an external meter in other respects that would be completely different in both how it hitches up to the Sovereign as well as lacking the need to plug the coil into it as a go between between the control box and the coil. It won't require any internal modifications to the Sovereign, yet it will provide a very different approach to the way things are connected to each other. Not like the internal cable modifications that you see for some home made meters on the web for the Sovereign. The problem with that approach is that each and every coil cable must be modified to get it to work with the meter. That's not a good idea IMO.
 
Thought I'd post a bit about finding nickels with the Sovereign. First, this machine is killer at IDing and hitting hard on nickels. I just dug another war nickle yesterday (it read 146) and I've dug more nickels with this machine than any other. So long as you know what to look for you can easily cherry pick them out of a sea of trash like tabs and foil. I have dug them that read as low as 139 on my DigiSearch meter but mainly they read around 142 to 146 for me using noise band 2 on my GT.

So how do you know it's a nickel? The ID will be much more stable, unlike oddly shaped trash that might read in that range. At the most you might see the ID change by 1 digit or perhaps 2 as you sweep over it from different angles. The audio will also sound solid and "round" and smooth. Trash will sound harsher or change more in digits as you change your position over it.

At first I had trouble with those pesky round tab tails. They mostly will read in the 130's range like up to around 136, so it's easy to avoid them. However, they can read a little higher and get into the nickle rang here and there. But watch the ID, though. The tab won't seem to settle down and will keep changing by 2 or more digits as you sweep and the audio isn't as good and will have a warble to it.

Tabs start at around 148 or 149 so it's easy enough to avoid those. Get a good sounding target in the 139 to 146 or maybe 147 range (but mostly in the 142 to 146 range) and you'll just know it's going to be a nickel.

At some sights the nickles will read a little higher or lower due to ground minerals, but it should still be in the 139 to 146 range somewhere. The more crudded up the nickle the lower it will read and depth can also lower it a bit. If I was hunting an old site not loaded with trash I might dig in the 135 or higher range to avoid missing coroaded nickles or ones at depth. I just dug a 139 jefferson nickle the other day that was in the ground a long time and was eaten up a bit, but I knew by the stable ID and good sound that it probably was going to be a nickel or perhaps a gold ring by how round and smooth it sounded.
 
I have said it before nickles have a tone all to them self for me and those I hunt with as you will see. On a war nickle I have seen them read from 143-151, but has that nickle tone to them. I even seen some get war nickles as high as 176 which I couldn't believe until they sent me the nickles and sure enough they read like a IH or a zinc penny. This has something to do with the ground in which they come from as it will leach out some of the metal of the nickle and think it was manganese or something like that i was told.
No question the Sovereign are hot on nickles and we do see a lot of them with my best day 167 of them, in fact that all there was really and feel it was a place they had a kids hunt in the park and after words it was detected out as they rejected nickles along with the trash. My first year with the Sovereign (1996) I got more nickles than new dimes as everyone just passed over them as they had the pull tab disc out.
 
Critterhunter, This is the most informative thread I have read on the GT.
Thanks Steve
 
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