Was out yesterday with my GT. Not to much on the beach to speak of. Half way into the hunt I noticed that the lower portion of the shaft was loose, that the coil was rotating in both directions. I checked the cam look and it was tight, then figured out that it was the area at the very end of the shaft where the coil attaches that was loose. It slides into the lower section and must be attached with some sort of adhesive. Luckily, the machine is still under warranty. I contacted Mindlab and was told that I needed to send back the lower shaft section before they'd send a replacment. Which I'll do, but what a pain the arse, it will probaby be 2 weeks before I get it back. I haven't heard of this one before, wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.
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Sov GT Shaft Problem
- Thread starter SurfPro
- Start date
Agree with both responses. 
I've had this happen on two separate shafts, so I assume it's a common issue. Sand the inside of the tube and the outside of the fitting with some rough sandpaper (To remove the failed glue and a textured surface will hold the glue better). Gorilla glue works great, just remember that it expands and is moisture cured, so it's best to lightly dampen both surfaces and wipe the excess as it cures.
I've had this happen on two separate shafts, so I assume it's a common issue. Sand the inside of the tube and the outside of the fitting with some rough sandpaper (To remove the failed glue and a textured surface will hold the glue better). Gorilla glue works great, just remember that it expands and is moisture cured, so it's best to lightly dampen both surfaces and wipe the excess as it cures.
Buried Crap NJ
New member
I have also had this happen to some machines. I would glue it as it really has little to do with the detector. If for some reason you screw it up and it breaks again, you buy a new lower shaft. You should have lower shafts for each coil you have makes it easier to just change the lower shaft before you go hunt.
bootyhoundpa
Well-known member
i didnt have any gorilla glue... used sub floor adhesive and tooth picks....drilled 3 tiny holes thru lower shaft and coil adapter .. put sub floor adhesive on tooth pics and inserted into tiny holes also put a good bead of the stuff on the adaptor prior to inserting into the bottom of the shaft... been using it more than a year since this repair,, some use in salt and fresh water with no problems... looks like the day i fixed it.. minelab must have used water soluble glue during original manufacture.......... .
GraveDiggerMax-VaBch-Va
New member
It happens often
Anderson makes nice lowers
Anderson makes nice lowers
what ya need is this stuff.... stickyassglue
Joe of South Jersey
New member
I have also had this happen.
TO repair I used Super Glue.......make sure the coil is in the right postion before the glue dries.
Helpful hint: Do this with lower connected to detector as normal. Do NOT try this with only the lower shaft on the work bench.
TO repair I used Super Glue.......make sure the coil is in the right postion before the glue dries.
Helpful hint: Do this with lower connected to detector as normal. Do NOT try this with only the lower shaft on the work bench.
Critterhunter
New member
I use Gorilla Glue a lot in building RC planes because it's about as light as it gets thanks to the foaming action. This also causes it to expand and fill in all the little nooks and crannies, so it's great for gluing foam body parts together. It only requires a VERY small amount of water to activate. For instance, if you filled a shot glass with this glue (don't do it! It'll expand to a huge size) you'd only need perhaps about 3 to 5 eye dropper drops of water to activate it. Really the water amount isn't real critical, as extra water won't do anything. Just mix it up good and be prepared to put whatever you are fixing together quick and have tape and weights handy to hold things in place, as the expansion will try to force things apart. If I was gluing the lower coil mount in I'd for sure tape wrap tape tightly around the two parts to hold them solidly together. Otherwise this glue will force them apart or spin the coil mount in the shaft a bit. Anybody who is new to this glue should fill up a shot glass sized container about 1/4th of the way, put 3 to 5 drops of water in there, mix it up, and watch what happens over the next twenty minutes. It'll foam up a lot in size, so stick it on some junk paper in case it overflows. That should give you a good idea of how much of this stuff to use when gluing things together. The newer versions of this glue that have come out in the last couple of years foam up faster and dry much quicker. I'd say it's done foaming in perhaps 10 minutes or so and will be completely dry in under an hour, but I always let it sit longer to be sure it's rock hard. This stuff has pretty much replaced epoxy for building foam planes in RC, as it's much lighter and bonds parts together better. The only things I use CA or epoxy on now when building planes are small areas where foaming might get out of control and muck things up, such as gluing magnets to canopies and such.
A quick tip: When you are done with the Gorilla Glue squeeze the bottle until glue just starts coming out the top and then stick the cap on. You want to get rid of any air in the bottle because it's moisture content can activate the glue and make it go hard over time.
Another quick tip: Some people just apply the glue not mixed with water to one surface and then use a spray bottle to mist the other surface with water. Tape them together and it will activate. This gives you more time to apply the glue without it starting to foam on you. In the case of the coil mount, you could apply the glue to the coil mount (a very thin coat is all you'll need) and then spray some water up into the shaft before inserting it. Get things straight and then tape the heck out of it with clear box tape to hold things tight. I usually tape strongly over any escape areas where the glue will try to foam out to insure it forces it's way into all the nooks under pressure like this, but there's another handy trick to use. Instead of risking it escaping somewhere unknown and sticking to a surface area, some people will poke a hole in the tape at a strategic point. This allows excess glue to escape via the hole and yet the tape prevents it from coming into contact with parts. When it's dry just snap off the excess bulb of glue. Don't mess with the stuff until it's dry. It's much easier to clean off areas after that.
A quick tip: When you are done with the Gorilla Glue squeeze the bottle until glue just starts coming out the top and then stick the cap on. You want to get rid of any air in the bottle because it's moisture content can activate the glue and make it go hard over time.
Another quick tip: Some people just apply the glue not mixed with water to one surface and then use a spray bottle to mist the other surface with water. Tape them together and it will activate. This gives you more time to apply the glue without it starting to foam on you. In the case of the coil mount, you could apply the glue to the coil mount (a very thin coat is all you'll need) and then spray some water up into the shaft before inserting it. Get things straight and then tape the heck out of it with clear box tape to hold things tight. I usually tape strongly over any escape areas where the glue will try to foam out to insure it forces it's way into all the nooks under pressure like this, but there's another handy trick to use. Instead of risking it escaping somewhere unknown and sticking to a surface area, some people will poke a hole in the tape at a strategic point. This allows excess glue to escape via the hole and yet the tape prevents it from coming into contact with parts. When it's dry just snap off the excess bulb of glue. Don't mess with the stuff until it's dry. It's much easier to clean off areas after that.
Mel Parker
Member
and it's great and easy to use. Back when Minelab lower shafts were hard to come buy, I would use Whites lower shafts and JB weld the the Minelab coil isolator into it.
http://jbweld.net/index.php
http://jbweld.net/index.php
I too became a Gorilla Glue true believer. My lower rod coil fixture broke loose before I got in the water, the previous owner had glued it but his job failed. I ran to the store, bought the glue and now the world is good.
One side note, I bought Plugger's rod end clamp. I have converted from the S shaft to a homemade straight shaft. No worries on alignment of the parts now. No holes to line up, this device allows a full range of adjustment and holds fantastic. I like it.
One side note, I bought Plugger's rod end clamp. I have converted from the S shaft to a homemade straight shaft. No worries on alignment of the parts now. No holes to line up, this device allows a full range of adjustment and holds fantastic. I like it.