Critterhunter
New member
I got my five half boots from Dixie after not being able to find them anywhere else including electronic supply stores online. He's a great guy to deal with and I'd highly recommend ordering them from him. I also hear from people he always keeps them in stock...
http://www.dixie-metal-detectors.com/dmd-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_113&products_id=492
These half boots will fit any Sovereign from what I hear and since the GT only needs 4 I've got an extra should something happen to one. Install is simple. Just remove the old nuts and then install these finger tight. I then gave them about an 8th of a turn more with a wrench to just make sure they were sealed properly. You'll want to gently force the boot over the toggle and not force it or you might rip one off the mounting nut. It's easiest to hold the switch straight up and down with needle nose pliers or something while doing this to both keep it straight and prevent enough pressure being put on the switch to force it back into the face plate, though with the solder connections they have they are pretty stiff. Also, when tightening down make sure you also hold the toggle straight up and down with some pliers to aid the boot in threading properly and the switch from turning at all inside the face plate, though again I don't think that would happen easily.
Before installing the boots I wiped down the toggles to make sure no dirt was on them that the boot might sweep off the toggle and fall down into the switch. I'd then use compressed air or at least blow into the switches while you flip them around to remove any debri that might be trapped in there that could end up gumming up the switch contacts over time. Flip the box upside down when doing this to help any dirt or sand to fall out of the switches. If you did blow into them using your mouth then let them sit for a while to avoid any moisture being trapped.
Unfortunately the extra boot I had left doesn't fit my homemade remote toggle switch. I'm willing to bet that Radio Shack can order that size boot when you pick up the switch (part # in mods forum) I used for that. Rather than go that route I plan to just use a tip I heard from somebody. Take some clear "fuel" tubing (hobby stores) (also the type used in medical IVs and such that is real flexible like rubber) and cut it just long enough to cover the threaded switch mounting shaft that sticks up from the nut (or even flex it around the nut if not enough threaded shaft is present). You want it just long enough to cover that and the base of the toggle much like one of these half boots.
Flex it over the switch and around the threaded shaft or nut. Now take a lighter and heat the other end of the tube (which is around the toggle near it's base) until it shrinks to seal it's self well to the toggle. Make sure you aren't heating up the toggle too much or you could form carbon on the switch contacts causing an open circuit.
This is also a handy way to do the GT switches should you not want to order the real thing from Dixie, but I'll say the Dixie half boots look and work well and would rather spring for those than muck up the looks of the faceplate with something homemade. I don't mind using the cheap and dirty way for my pinpoint since that's not something you can see easily anyway.
Is anybody doing anything to prevent the dials from allowing moisture in? I would figure they have a pretty tight tolerance anyway at the POT shaft to prevent that but think I've heard of people putting O-rings under the knobs to maybe do this or at least to stiffen up the dials so they don't turn as easily if bumped. I may also protect the speaker hole with something to prevent dirt or moisture getting in there, but I want to use something that isn't going to muck up the face plate down the road when I take it off. Any ideas?
http://www.dixie-metal-detectors.com/dmd-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=84_113&products_id=492
These half boots will fit any Sovereign from what I hear and since the GT only needs 4 I've got an extra should something happen to one. Install is simple. Just remove the old nuts and then install these finger tight. I then gave them about an 8th of a turn more with a wrench to just make sure they were sealed properly. You'll want to gently force the boot over the toggle and not force it or you might rip one off the mounting nut. It's easiest to hold the switch straight up and down with needle nose pliers or something while doing this to both keep it straight and prevent enough pressure being put on the switch to force it back into the face plate, though with the solder connections they have they are pretty stiff. Also, when tightening down make sure you also hold the toggle straight up and down with some pliers to aid the boot in threading properly and the switch from turning at all inside the face plate, though again I don't think that would happen easily.
Before installing the boots I wiped down the toggles to make sure no dirt was on them that the boot might sweep off the toggle and fall down into the switch. I'd then use compressed air or at least blow into the switches while you flip them around to remove any debri that might be trapped in there that could end up gumming up the switch contacts over time. Flip the box upside down when doing this to help any dirt or sand to fall out of the switches. If you did blow into them using your mouth then let them sit for a while to avoid any moisture being trapped.
Unfortunately the extra boot I had left doesn't fit my homemade remote toggle switch. I'm willing to bet that Radio Shack can order that size boot when you pick up the switch (part # in mods forum) I used for that. Rather than go that route I plan to just use a tip I heard from somebody. Take some clear "fuel" tubing (hobby stores) (also the type used in medical IVs and such that is real flexible like rubber) and cut it just long enough to cover the threaded switch mounting shaft that sticks up from the nut (or even flex it around the nut if not enough threaded shaft is present). You want it just long enough to cover that and the base of the toggle much like one of these half boots.
Flex it over the switch and around the threaded shaft or nut. Now take a lighter and heat the other end of the tube (which is around the toggle near it's base) until it shrinks to seal it's self well to the toggle. Make sure you aren't heating up the toggle too much or you could form carbon on the switch contacts causing an open circuit.
This is also a handy way to do the GT switches should you not want to order the real thing from Dixie, but I'll say the Dixie half boots look and work well and would rather spring for those than muck up the looks of the faceplate with something homemade. I don't mind using the cheap and dirty way for my pinpoint since that's not something you can see easily anyway.
Is anybody doing anything to prevent the dials from allowing moisture in? I would figure they have a pretty tight tolerance anyway at the POT shaft to prevent that but think I've heard of people putting O-rings under the knobs to maybe do this or at least to stiffen up the dials so they don't turn as easily if bumped. I may also protect the speaker hole with something to prevent dirt or moisture getting in there, but I want to use something that isn't going to muck up the face plate down the road when I take it off. Any ideas?
I'm looking forward to hearing your report on how it compares to your older Sovereigns in depth and performance for you.
Jim