Mike Moutray's Explorer Setup
Due to the incredible demand from fellow Explorer owners to the settings I use, here is a listing and explanation of the different adjustments. Remember, that these settings work best for me in the particular situations I frequent - trashy parks - and although they work for nearly every other situation, you may find that a change in one or more of these settings will better suit the detector's performance for your hunting situation or personal preference.
1: First of all, I hunt in the Smart find Display... I find it infinitely more useful to provide an accurate graphic representation of the target than Digital Mode.
2: I hunt in the "Iron Mask" Function. This is nothing more than a simple discrimination pattern that provides for a very basic change in accepting or rejecting a progressive range of ferrous and non ferrous targets. I keep mine set at -10 which, in theory, accepts all non-ferrous targets. In practice it knocks out about 90% of all ferrous targets. (Ferrous refers to targets bearing Iron or Iron-alloys) Some stainless steel objects and bottle caps are accepted in this range, but they are not a nuisance to me. The reason for accepting such a broad range of targets is to allow the detector the ability to produce a steady sound on a deep target where the ID and tone may vary from the high coin range to the lower "junk" ranges. This is critical to allow the detector to pick up that first "initial hit" on the first sweep of the coil, regardless of whether it actually landed in the coin ID range or not. If you find certain areas of the accepted portion of the screen fall consistently in a particular nuisance junk target range, you can simply duplicate the Iron Mask pattern in the "Discrimination" Function, then use the "Edit" or "Learn" Display to "blacken out" or reject those nuisance targets. The resulting "Discrimination" Pattern functions exactly as the "Iron Mask" Function under detecting conditions. I prefer to not do these extra edits, as I've trained my ears and brain to block out the constant repeating "junk signals", and I often find it quite useful to have the constant drone of junk signals as a background reference when I am keying on the higher tones of desirable coin signals.
3: Sensitivity... I prefer to hunt in Manual Sensitivity setting for 2 important reasons. First, when the detector is set to Semi-auto Sensitivity, it often tends to "overcompensate" for many ground conditions, often resulting in an actual sensitivity setting at well below what I deem acceptable for getting the best depth and sensitivity performance. The detector tries to shoot for an operating condition of a fairly steady threshold, and in many ground conditions, this can only be achieved by sensitivity being set a very low value. In these instances, it is better to sacrifice a steady threshold for a little higher sensitivity value. Secondly, I prefer to have direct control over the sensitivity value depending on the depth of the targets I'm searching for. If I'm in an area with fairly shallow targets and deeper trash, such as an area of old soil over even older fill dirt, I don't want the machine to be "too hot" and pick up real deep trash. I may also want to have a better threshold present in trashy spots where it will affect the recovery and Smart find readings, giving me a better chance at separating and correctly ID'ing the good signals amongst the surrounding trash.
4: Threshold setting is simply a matter of personal preference, but I stick to the old rule of "barely audible".
MAIN MENU SELECTIONS
Display: Choice of settings here are simply which of the 4 Display Functions you are searching in... Automatically set by the dedicated "Search" button on the Control Pad. You should already be in Smart find. The other setting is screen contrast, which I have at the highest value of 10 - this makes the screen and especially the bulls eye on the Smart find function more visible... especially in high and low light conditions.
Select: This sub-menu is only for choosing Discrimination patterns. Since I hunt in "Iron Mask", I don't use this sub-menu at all.
Save: Same goes for this one.
Audio: Volume: Max Limit: This is set at 10 to allow the full volume potential of the detector to be utilized.
Gain: This is essentially a volume booster for faint audio signals from deep/weak targets. Ideally, one would want this set as high as possible to hear the faintest signals loud and clear but I run this at 6 for one important reason... I need to hear the difference between the loud shallow "clad" coin hits and the deeper "old" coin hits. When I'm in many park areas that are full of shallow pennies, I can't waste the time to stop and visually check the depth reading of every single coin hit! This would take valuable time away from my looking for the deep, faint signal that holds much more promise for a good target. My hearing is still pretty good so, with a top line pair of headphones (Gray Ghost/Timber Wolf/Thunder), I have no problem discerning faint audio signals from ambient noise.
Tone: Th. Tone: This sets how high or how low your threshold pitch is. I have this in the middle at 5, but this is strictly my preference.
Variability: This setting determines the maximum change in target tone from the lowest audio signal to the highest. Basically, the higher this value is set, the higher the tone for the high coin readings and the lower the tone for the lowest foil readings. I have this set at 8 so that the highest coin readings aren't too high, because certain junk targets like rotted iron, hot rocks, or large aluminum items sound off with a distinctive "shriek" of extremely high pitch. This allows for you to be able to not dig these telltale signals ( Be aware, coins in very wet soil - especially after a fresh rain, may produce this high "shrieky" pitch) With Variability at 10, it is too difficult to tell the highest coin readings from the high shriek of a hot rock or aforementioned junk item.
Limits: This setting control only how high the pitch is for the highest audio reading, and I keep this at 10.
Sounds: This setting determines which way the "low to high" axis of tones is represented on the Smart find Display. "Conduct" is the axis where the lowest tones are at the bottom of the screen and the highest tones are at the top of the screen. "Ferrous" is the axis where the lowest tones are at the left-hand side of the screen, and the highest tones are at the right-hand side of the screen. "Const" or Constant simply allows for no Tone variation in the target audio signal, regardless of where it hits on the Smart find Display. This never applies to any of my hunting situations as I hunt by tone, and not merely the presence of an audible signal.
Conduct and Ferrous each has its advantages and disadvantages. I hunt almost always in Conduct - where the highest tones are at the top of the screen. This can be a disadvantage for older, deeper coins that tend to read on the right edge of the screen, but lower down from the top edge and, consequently, lower in tone. Here you have to train your ears to listen for the "slightly-lower-than-coin" signal tones or you could miss out on a nice find whose tone is decreased because of being at an extreme depth. The Ferrous setting allows for the highest tones to come from targets that read on the right edge of the screen, and works best when you are searching for any REAL deep signal, where they tend to ID at the right edge of the screen. The main drawback is the tendency for certain iron targets to ID at the right edge of the screen as well as good targets. Bottle caps read off the right edge of the screen near the bottom, and can be very pesky as they sound the same as good "coin" hits. Rotted nails and other small iron also tend to hit here, some more stubbornly than others. If you are in an area lacking these nuisance Iron targets, the Ferrous setting, will best serve for hunting the real deep coins, otherwise, I stick to "Conduct".
Options: Advanced: Should always be darkened.
Noise: Displays the current value of the "Noise Cancel" function. The Noise Cancel has a dedicated button on the Control Pad. You can manually set this value here... especially when hunting in the presence of other detectors or non-constant interference sources. This essentially works as a "frequency shifter" feature that you find on other detectors, and can be used in competition hunts for fast adjustments to maintain stability when around other detectors. I haven't heard or proven that the value has any affect on detector depth, sensitivity, or operation so there is no "optimal" setting here, just where ever it is - it is.
Response: I always hunt on "Normal". I have experimented with the other settings and although they (mainly audio1) have their advantages in extremely clean ground to maximize the audio response of a target, I find them impractical in the context of most park hunting where target separation and tone representation are adversely affected.
Recover: Fast: I have this turned on most times except when I'm in very clean ground, I'll turn it off. This has the effect of making a faint audio signal "wider" in the sweep of the coil - the detector sort of grabs hold of the signal and sounds it out longer than with Fast turned on. In trashier situations you need Fast on so that the detector can process a signal to an audio and visual response on the meter faster and reset for the next signal to be processed - this is referred to as "target separation".
Deep: I always have this turned on! Never found a reason to have it off. Be careful to turn this on when you first set up your machine as this is normally off in the preset mode.
Settings: This is where you can store different detector operating values and parameters and change from one set back to the other depending on changes in your hunting situations. I never use this, as I prefer the long and tedious task of making individual changes to several values when I change hunting situations.
Other "Settings" and tricks to get the most out of your Explorer:
Coils: There are several different coils available from Minelab and other "aftermarket" companies. At this time there are 5", 8", 12", 15", and elliptical coils available.... each designed to improve the detector's performance and operation over the "stock" 10 1/2" coil. I have tested these and I personally have no huge preference for one size over another or one brand over another.
The 5" works best in the heaviest of trash, highest mineralization, or in the tightest quarters. It gets Impressive depth, although understandably less than the larger coils, and can be used at higher sensitivity settings without loss of stability.
The 8" coil is an "in between" size for when you need improved target separation in trashier areas, but maintain as much depth capability as possible. The 12" coil is more an improvement in weight of the detector than in significant performance improvement. Its lighter profile provides more comfortable detecting while still maintaining full depth capability and coverage.
The 15" coil is currently the largest coil available (there are larger coils in the works as of this writing - so goes the rumor mill). It is the one to turn to for maximum depth and ground coverage... especially for hunting beaches, or large open areas like fields.
The elliptical coil (5"X10" I believe) was developed as a hybrid... to provide coverage of a larger coil, yet the target separation of a smaller coil.
Target Probes: THIS IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST!!! Using the Explorer is made FAR easier when you have a good probe to assist in pinpointing and recovering targets. There are several handheld models available - all roughly equal in performance... each with about 1-2" sensitivity. The X-1 Probe from Sunray is a far superior pin pointer with twice the range and all the features of any coil as it is simply a second coil with a switch box. In my opinion this is the first accessory you need for your Explorer as it makes such a VAST improvement in efficiency of pinpointing and recovering targets. It is no secret that the Double-D design of the coils do not lend well to the best pinpointing job.... the X-1 probe greatly reduces the amount of digging and greatly ensures against accidental damaging of the target through careless or misguided digging.
Recovery Equipment: I've seen everything from pocket knives and dandelion diggers to pack shovels and specialized diggers and plug cutters used in recovery. Each has its merits.... the whole idea of recovery is to remove the target from the earth as quickly and efficiently as possible and with the least amount of damage to the ground as one can afford. In my hunting situation, I'm presented with many factors to consider in selecting the best recovery tool. I have to hunt in high profile areas where I am scrutinized by landowners and ignorant passersby alike. I also am in areas where anything short of a bulldozer won't raise an eyebrow from anyone. I have to deal with rock hard clay surfaces and deep floodplain soils.
Roots - large and small- rocks, cinders, manicured lawns, drained lake beds, beach sand.... the point is that there is an obvious need for different tools for the different sites. My main standby is a 14" long Bowie Knife... it is very durable, versatile, relatively cheap ($15 at the local flea market), and an excellent deterrent to unwanted personal interaction in the urban scenes - if you get my drift <img src="/metal/html/wink.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
">. It can be used to probe out surface clad from the top layer of dirt, and cut DEEP plugs to reach far below. It can pry large rocks loose from hard ground without bending or breaking, and hack through tough roots. If I hunt a more "sensitive" area, I can turn to a less imposing tool like a Lesche Digger or a "Coin Popper". In the best of manicured lawns, out comes a probe made from a 10" flat bladed screwdriver with the end rounded off a bit. In the construction zone or lake bed, out comes my pack shovel... the army surplus kind that adjusts from straight trenching shovel to the "chopping scoop" angled shovel.
Headphones: The aforementioned lines of Gray Ghost / Timber wolf/ Thunder phones are the best as far as comfort, drowning out exterior noise and sound quality. These require the purchase of the Sunray detector stand with the built in headphone jack adaptor. For hot summer hunting, a lighter phone is recommended so that your ears don't fill up with sweat. I don't have any particular brands to commend, Inquire within the forums for the best models as there are some that will not work with the Explorer.
Final Word: This is a good summary of how to prepare your Explorer for a productive trip. But remember, the machine is only as good as the person swinging it. Old bits of timeless advice apply... such as Research, Research, and Research -
The 3 "P's" (Practice, Patience, Persistence), and putting your coil over the target. How well you go out prepared for success will dictate whether you will enjoy a rewarding relationship with your Explorer or a frustrating Nightmare. If you are easily discouraged, this is not the hobby for you!!!! If you are even mildly discourage able, consider searching for clad coins or something easy that doesn't require the work and dedication that searching hunted out parks for difficult to find coins does. Remember that there is a whole world of detectorists on the forums for you to gain Information, Experience, Confidence, and Inspiration from.... use that most important tool to it's fullest! Good Luck and Happy Hunting!
Mike Moutray - St. Louis, MO.
Question: What is the lowest point on the screen that you have seen the cross hairs and it still is a silver coin? Also the same question but how far left have you seen the cross hairs and it still be a silver coin? Also would you say silver sounds fluty like several notes playing on a flute as you sweep across the coin in the ground?
Answer: Mike, if the silver dimes are deep enough or on edge they can hit anywhere along the upper or right edge of the screen. Once in a while a really worn dime can read down into the screen near zinc penny. When they are deep, they do have the multi-tone "flute" sound. HH, Mike.
Question: What would be the LOWEST setting I could use to assure myself that I would pick up dime sized targets at 6" maximum depth?
I hunt older sites with little trash, and not much moved earth, and don't want to frustrate myself trying to get 8" or 10" when I only really want to be sure I don't miss something at 6" and have the better stability of lower sensitivity.
Answer: Don't run your sensitivity too low or you'll start to miss dimes on edge. A silver dime on edge at even 5 inches can be a very hard target to find if the sensitivity is too low. I never hunt below 16 manual... when I'm hunting sledding hills in winter I'll cut it back to 12 to avoid signals from stuff buried in the ground under the snow, but they still come through, so I imagine that the change in the sensitivity setting would have to be great to see a significant change in depth. HH, Mike.
Question: Help with AIR Tests
Answer: Make sure you have "DEEP" turned on and "FAST
