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Search Modes for Learning the CTX 3030 :detecting: by harryhh
- Thread starter harryhh
- Start date
fedderdavid
New member
I used your last program or most advanced program with no discrimination or using the P2 and for the first time ever I could hear good targets among iron at the beach. I like your beginning program for finding quarters, dimes, and Wheaties and silver if there is any left where I live (Corpus Christi, Texas). The Wheaties have ranged from 1917-1950's. Just no silver yet except for one ring. Thanks again for your help.
Sincerely,
David
Sincerely,
David
I just wanted to make my first post be a BIG thank you! I just uploaded the training files to my CTX and can't wait to get out and try them. I am a newbi and have been using the stock modes, mostly looking in Golden Gate Park. It has been well-hunted, but I have managed to find some coins (mostly Lincoln pennies, one wheat, one old Jeff nickel, a couple of clad quarters - but thus far, nothing older) and my share of pull tabs and bottlecaps and junk! I have come to the conclusion that there is just no substitute for practice, practice, practice. These training modes are a great heling hand, so thank you for taking the time to develop and post them (and your directions were first rate!)
Hello mcb613,
I'm not sure if there is a question here, but here goes.
I looked at the number of machines you have listed, and you're obviously an experienced detectorist. Some people use manual sensitivity exclusively, and set it pretty high, in the upper 20's. It's a matter of choice, and many people find it works well.
But here, for the purposes of these training programs and learning the CTX, the more stable the machine is, the better. The training programs, step by step, are intended to 'stabilize' on good targets as well as I could make them. And, remove as much erroneous clutter as possible. Initially I would recommend Auto Sensitivity, then, according to your own preference and experience, you may want to try manual.
For the soil in my area, Auto Sensitivity usually starts out at around 16 -17. After detecting for 10 minutes or so, it works its way up to the lower 20's. Sometimes around 24 -25.
Harry
I'm not sure if there is a question here, but here goes.
I looked at the number of machines you have listed, and you're obviously an experienced detectorist. Some people use manual sensitivity exclusively, and set it pretty high, in the upper 20's. It's a matter of choice, and many people find it works well.
But here, for the purposes of these training programs and learning the CTX, the more stable the machine is, the better. The training programs, step by step, are intended to 'stabilize' on good targets as well as I could make them. And, remove as much erroneous clutter as possible. Initially I would recommend Auto Sensitivity, then, according to your own preference and experience, you may want to try manual.
For the soil in my area, Auto Sensitivity usually starts out at around 16 -17. After detecting for 10 minutes or so, it works its way up to the lower 20's. Sometimes around 24 -25.
Harry
Count Pierre
Member
I always run my CTX in Auto +3, 'cause I''m a lazy bugger.....just love the detector keeping it all together for me! :clsoedeyes:
Jokes aside, I find auto works a lot better for me than trying to manually adjust, in our Aussie ground.
CP
Jokes aside, I find auto works a lot better for me than trying to manually adjust, in our Aussie ground.
CP
I wonder if Auto behavior depends on what state it was switched from. Experiment: try setting Manual at 20, use it for awhile, then go to Auto and note the number that results. Now go back into Manual and set to it to 30. Use it for awhile and go to Auto. Same number as Auto before??
Moonshine53
New member
Seriously thinking about purchasing a CTX 3030 is it hard to learn I have a AT Pro .
Oh boy! Easy and hard.
Easy in that the ctx is 'almost' a turn on and go machine. It doesn't try to tell you penny, nickel, dime, etc.. I say it is almost a turn on and go machine because you have to learn where on the screen those targets fall. From left to right on the ctx screen, various nickels fall around 10-15, pennies mid 30s to mid 40s, dimes 42-44, quarters 46-47, halfs and silver dollars 45-46. This information and the quick start guide that comes with the detector is enough for you to go out and do a good job on U.S. coins. There are some things that you might want to know and would have to read the manual. You could pick out just the few things to get you operating and leave it at that.
Hard in that the ctx has lots of bells and whistles to learn. It depends on how much of that you want to learn. Turn on and go, or learn more. It also depends on the individual. Are you a person who is capable of reading the manual, understanding it, remembering it, and applying it to the machine? If you can do those things, the ctx isn't very difficult. If you are a person that gets along with the electronic, technical devices of today, you shouldn't have much of a problem.
For me that meant reading the manual a couple of times without even touching the machine. Then reading the manual and applying it to the machine, then reading parts of the manual again and applying it to the machine. At that point I was able to go out and do a good job of detecting, and felt somewhat comfortable with the machine. I wanted to learn more though so I kept reading parts of the manual and kept applying that to the machine over many outings.
The following is a TID chart that shows where U.S. coins fall on the ctx screen. Notice that coins tend to fall on the 12 line down from the top. As for left to right, the coins vary from about 10 thru 47. Click on the chart to make it bigger.
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?87,1731336,1731336#msg-1731336
Just don't let the ctx overwhelm you. Understand that it is almost a turn on and go machine. The machine is capable of finding lots of good stuff even with minimal knowledge of the detector. From there, you learn as much as you wish.
Easy in that the ctx is 'almost' a turn on and go machine. It doesn't try to tell you penny, nickel, dime, etc.. I say it is almost a turn on and go machine because you have to learn where on the screen those targets fall. From left to right on the ctx screen, various nickels fall around 10-15, pennies mid 30s to mid 40s, dimes 42-44, quarters 46-47, halfs and silver dollars 45-46. This information and the quick start guide that comes with the detector is enough for you to go out and do a good job on U.S. coins. There are some things that you might want to know and would have to read the manual. You could pick out just the few things to get you operating and leave it at that.
Hard in that the ctx has lots of bells and whistles to learn. It depends on how much of that you want to learn. Turn on and go, or learn more. It also depends on the individual. Are you a person who is capable of reading the manual, understanding it, remembering it, and applying it to the machine? If you can do those things, the ctx isn't very difficult. If you are a person that gets along with the electronic, technical devices of today, you shouldn't have much of a problem.
For me that meant reading the manual a couple of times without even touching the machine. Then reading the manual and applying it to the machine, then reading parts of the manual again and applying it to the machine. At that point I was able to go out and do a good job of detecting, and felt somewhat comfortable with the machine. I wanted to learn more though so I kept reading parts of the manual and kept applying that to the machine over many outings.
The following is a TID chart that shows where U.S. coins fall on the ctx screen. Notice that coins tend to fall on the 12 line down from the top. As for left to right, the coins vary from about 10 thru 47. Click on the chart to make it bigger.
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?87,1731336,1731336#msg-1731336
Just don't let the ctx overwhelm you. Understand that it is almost a turn on and go machine. The machine is capable of finding lots of good stuff even with minimal knowledge of the detector. From there, you learn as much as you wish.
Moonshine, I am 63 and have an AT Pro and a Safari. It is a little different but all the same coming off of a Garrett product to a Minelab.
Both are absolutely excellent machines. I just put my CTX3030 brand new in to service August 1. While I was waiting on it to come, I
downloaded and printed the manual and read it so I would know how to turn it on. I'm not a smart man but my suggestion would be to
buy the least expensive Explorer II you can and get to know it. From there, get the CTX. If I had not had my Safari first, I would not have
understood the workings of the CTX as easily as I did. It actually is very much like the AT Pro to me but if you can imagine for each adjustment
you have on the AT Pro, you have 3 fine adjustments on the CTX. The return information is 2 fold in that it will give you the iron content of what you
are seeing. Nickels have always been a nemisis for me and in fact, before the Safari, the only way I found one was by accident. With the Safari, I would
say I would get 1 in 7 holes to produce a nickel. As of 8/1 thru today (found 2 today in a 45 minute hunt), I have found as many nickels as
I have since mid February with both the other machines. It is that accurate. The machine don't lie. If it says it's silver, it's silver. If it says
it's copper, it's copper. But it's like playing Super Mario. You better watch that little b---- slipping up from that 35 line cause if you miss and
don't pay attention, you'll dig a bottle cap. I know you may not understand this right now but I had a blood red 12/39 with the target dead center
today with the top portion of the blue square sneaking up from line 35. I knew not to dig it but I wanted to see if the machine was lieing. I dug it
and it was a screw cap just like the machine was telling me. That's the great thing about this machine. You gotta learn to trust it but you gotta
pay the price. The third thing I found with mine was an 18K gold necklace. It will take me a very long time to say I know how to work the CTX.
But I can say with confidence that you can take your AT Pro, find an "iffy" signal with it today, and I can take the CTX on that same target and
tell you if it is a good signal or not. First just learn the basics of the factory modes, learn how to turn this on and that off and you will be finding
good targets right out of the box if you read the manual before it comes.
Both are absolutely excellent machines. I just put my CTX3030 brand new in to service August 1. While I was waiting on it to come, I
downloaded and printed the manual and read it so I would know how to turn it on. I'm not a smart man but my suggestion would be to
buy the least expensive Explorer II you can and get to know it. From there, get the CTX. If I had not had my Safari first, I would not have
understood the workings of the CTX as easily as I did. It actually is very much like the AT Pro to me but if you can imagine for each adjustment
you have on the AT Pro, you have 3 fine adjustments on the CTX. The return information is 2 fold in that it will give you the iron content of what you
are seeing. Nickels have always been a nemisis for me and in fact, before the Safari, the only way I found one was by accident. With the Safari, I would
say I would get 1 in 7 holes to produce a nickel. As of 8/1 thru today (found 2 today in a 45 minute hunt), I have found as many nickels as
I have since mid February with both the other machines. It is that accurate. The machine don't lie. If it says it's silver, it's silver. If it says
it's copper, it's copper. But it's like playing Super Mario. You better watch that little b---- slipping up from that 35 line cause if you miss and
don't pay attention, you'll dig a bottle cap. I know you may not understand this right now but I had a blood red 12/39 with the target dead center
today with the top portion of the blue square sneaking up from line 35. I knew not to dig it but I wanted to see if the machine was lieing. I dug it
and it was a screw cap just like the machine was telling me. That's the great thing about this machine. You gotta learn to trust it but you gotta
pay the price. The third thing I found with mine was an 18K gold necklace. It will take me a very long time to say I know how to work the CTX.
But I can say with confidence that you can take your AT Pro, find an "iffy" signal with it today, and I can take the CTX on that same target and
tell you if it is a good signal or not. First just learn the basics of the factory modes, learn how to turn this on and that off and you will be finding
good targets right out of the box if you read the manual before it comes.
Your right, its as simple as that