Remote Pin Point Switch For GT

[Critterhunter]

Think I got it figured out now...

 

[Critterhunter]

[attachment 242186 IMG_6433.JPG]

[attachment 242187 IMG_6434.JPG]

 

[Critterhunter]

This one has the text drawn into it to illistrate the PP mod. What you see here is three of the lines I drew pointing to one of the three stiff wire connections coming off a switch (the middle one). You cut that connection in half then bend the two ends away a bit from each other so they don't contact each other again. Then you solder your connections wires running from your stereo jack numbered pins (as noted) to those two ends of that switch connection you just cut (again, the middle one on the switch), and also another wire from your stereo jack to the switches furthest right stiff wire connection. In other words, there are three stiff metal connections coming off this switch. You are cutting the middle one, wiring your stereo jack pins to it, and then wiring another stereo jack connection to the right most switch wire. Can't make it any clearer than that, but if anybody has further questions just ask or shoot me a PM...

Remember to make sure where you plan to mount the jack on the back of the GT will clear when the two halves of the control box are put back together. One half of the box might bump into it due to a depression in the plastic. And make sure that the circuit board has been installed back so that you know you are clearing it too above it. The circuit board has to be removed (first the coil connector) in order to gain access to the bottom screw (from memory here) to remove the face plate. I think (again, from memory) you need to do that to gain easer access to the switch on the face plate we are moddifying.

I didn't remove the circuit board to get that last face plate screw out. Instead, I just *gently* broke the plastic screw stud. The GT still went back together fine and with no slop, but I was in a rush and would recommend you remove the circuit board to gain access to that screw and do it the right way. I put some super glue on that broken screw stud when put back together to fix it just in case. It didn't mess up the face plate, just on the back where the screw threaded.

Also, make sure you are not working in an evironment that contains static electricity to avoid possible shocking of the control board's IC chips. I've never took precautions with that before messing with electronics and never fried and IC, but it can happen. Best to touch something first to ground yourself like perhaps copper plumbing in your house to be sure.

Any other questions just as or shoot me a PM.

 

[Critterhunter]

Note the black thing in the lower right corner being the headphone jack. It'd probably be real easy to change that thing to a smaller jack that a lot of headphones use. I hate using the adaptor to go to the smaller size plug my headphones use because the adaptor and the headphone plug stick way out on the machine. Don't know why they use such huge plugs on headphones these days. No need for it unless your are building military communications equipment for rough field use IMO. People can argue they are more rugged but I feel they are also more prone to being bumped in the field being bigger. Just my opinion anyway. I might change that stinking jack some day here...