treasure_hunter
New member
Don't know about phone call, but if they hire another admin person to handle more phone calls then they have to raise the hourly charge to cover their wages, a tech brings in income, admins answering phones don't..
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
It isn't automatic but it is very simple. That way you can have the unit turn on in the mode you prefer and settings you desire to get started.Flbchbm said:There is a way to save your settings on the FC but it isn't automatic. There is a procedure in the owners manual on how to do it. I have never bothered to learn the procedure because it isn't that much of a bother to change the settings. Most of yhe time the default settings work just fine for me. I believe both Monte and Keith Southern have used all the detectors you mentioned and they would be the ones to give you good advice as far as getting a FC.
The FORS CoRe is a dandy detector for multi-purpose hunting and I am sorry to hear Kellyco took so long to address your repair service. Much longer than I ever would have expected from a Distributor/Service Center. I always have at least two detectors, and often three or more [size=small](as noted below in my Signature).[/size]Flbchbm said:My experience is limited to only the FC. I like mine a lot but I see the need to have another detector on hand so if one goes down I am not out of the hunt.
Richard is a good guy to do business with, and I just hope the MX Sport you are going to receive has the most recent [size=small](3rd revision)[/size] update and works well for you.Flbchbm said:Just ordered a lightly used Whites MXSport today from Richard at Backwoods and am looking forward to testing it out this week. (By the way, so far communication is excellent from Richard and he has already shipped the detector.)
Stefan, that is correct. I usually press the Down Arrow ... after the display has reset to the search setting ... then hold it for 4 to 6 seconds and press the '-' button for it to save and hold all of the display and function settings..Stoof-tabsallday said:For my relic is says to press and hols the up or down from main screen for at least 4 seconds even after the menu appears then hit the "-" button with the other button still pressed to save the settings.
Yep.Stoof-tabsallday said:If you do the same but press "+" then it restores to factory settings in case you mess up and can't get it back to normal.
Yes, you do it just the same.Stoof-tabsallday said:Same procedure?!?
Good question and the key word in your question is 'need.'Stoof-tabsallday said:So, Monte...
Considering I already have the relic is there any need to get the core?
Yes, I am also eager to get an evaluation unit, but my eagerness is complemented by the fact that Nokta isn't rushing it into production like some manufacturers have done, over many decades, just to try and keep up or try to capture some of the market because their sales were waning. I have to commend the Nokta & Makro Detector 'team' as they put a lot of time and effort into listening to the consumer base as well as working on the R&D to provide a truly finished product by the time of model release announcement. Other makers ought to sit up and take note, if they haven't already.Stoof-tabsallday said:Haha point taken Monte.
To be honest I'm waiting. Like many, for the impact.
They are 'close' in many ways, but there are discernible, subtle differences a savvy operator can learn from using them.Stoof-tabsallday said:But I don't own any makes yet. Now although the performance between Makro and Nokta are so close as far as features that many call them kissing cousins.
Adding a Racer 2 to your current detector arsenal to complement the FORS Relic might be the better option than getting the FORS CoRe, but, as I stated before, it is really a matter of personal want and not need. I really enjoy my FORS CoRe and it is a solid stay-put model in my detector battery.Stoof-tabsallday said:I have a bit of a different question for you then...
Since my relic and the racer 2 are very similar as far as features but completely different layout as far as screens and menus etc. I've already been leaning towards picking one up.
Yes, in my opinion, it would be. Both the Racer series and FORS series models can be used for Coin & Jewelry Hunting, Relic Hunting and Gold Nugget Hunting, but I tend to grab my Racer 2's more often for urban Coin & Jewelry Hunting. They just have a good 'fit' for me, in both adjustment features and audio performance.Stoof-tabsallday said:Since functionally they are very similar but ergonomically and visually they are completely different would that be more of a lateral move?
How about this .... 'Why Not??' .....Stoof-tabsallday said:I know you own both so curious to know why you have both.
For most of my relic Hunting I rely almost completely on the audio response but do occasionally glance at the numeric display in the hand-grip. That's really all I need, and if I want to know the MMI at a location I can bob the coil then glance at the side display. For more urban Coin & Jewelry Hunting I do make use of the visual display more frequently and for that the Racer series shows me all I need to knowStoof-tabsallday said:I like the idea of the screen up front, but I don't mind the layout and balance of my relic at all.
Thank you for the kind words, but I will say that nobody knows it all, and everyone should constantly be learning. I know that for over 51 years now I have used the same philosophy whenever I grab any detector, indoors or out, whether in a dealer's shop, at home, in a discussion with anyone out detecting or doing a seminar. That is this:Stoof-tabsallday said:Thanks Monte. Your point of view matters and you have a whole lot of knowledge. You have forgotten more than I will ever learn about detecting, but I'm working on it.
Again, the word 'decades' comes to mind as that is what I have done, thin-the-herd, many times over many decades, and top-end performing detectors are the ones that hang around the longest. I don't see the performance on any detector I currently own and use being overshadowed by the completion so I feel quite confident and well inventoried for a long time to come. Now it is more a matter of researching and getting onto new and better-producing sites to hunt.Stoof-tabsallday said:Eventually I'll thin out the heard a bit and keep my favs but for now I'm enjoying the variety and learning process.
No real need to rush another detector since you have a mixed bag of units now and that can confuse anyone trying to learn different model designs. Just concentrate on learning and mastering the more versatile [size=small](thus more useful)[/size] models, and maybe thin down what you have acquired. Then you will be more prepared to acquire and learn a new Racer 2.Stoof-tabsallday said:Yes I found a gent that will give me a stellar deal on a racer 2 so I'm saving for that now but not really in a rush.
Yes, it really is a matter of getting out and working one detector an ample amount and learning it well, and the FORS Relic is the best I see in your current detector arsenal, plus one other that has long been a favorite of mine. I'd suggest you concentrate on learning the them as well as the more functional search coils for them.Stoof-tabsallday said:Since about 3 wells ago and back to march I've been grabbing detectors like crazy and living every minute of it.
But now it's time to learn what I have while saving for the racer 2.
Biggest thing now is me getting it there and swinging.
A lot depends upon the type of vehicle you have and how much room it affords, not to mention a personal-use or family-use vehicle. I know folks with younger kids and they wouldn't dare leave even one detector in their car, van or pick-up for fear it would be damaged. Some have a mini or full-size van and have room to safely store a detector or two or three.Stoof-tabsallday said:I am torn between which detector(s) to bring and use so I usually change them often as well as pick the ones best suited for the area.
My Relic is the most often grabbed detector, unless I am mainly Coin Hunting most typical locations in which case I grab the Racer 2. Both are very close/similar in performance, but we can each determine subtle differences we happen to favor, and for me and my more frequented hunting environments, the Relic is tops.Stoof-tabsallday said:Definitely high on my list is putting in time with my relic. It's my nicest and most feature filled machine and I need to learn it's subtleties and language. I'm sure it will surpass all as my favorite, but I seem to grab it for the worst hunts.
Yes, I would also definitely not give up on the search for a lost and valuable ring, but Gregg's suggestion is a good one. To use a local park and Coin Hunt to get to learn and know the Relic better ... and that includes all of the search coils you have for it.Stoof-tabsallday said:Gregg suggested I grab just my relic and coils for it and only that and get to a park where there's more of a chance of finding good targets.
I unfairly have been using it on a ring specific target area where I'm beginning to think the ring isn't anymore lol. But when someone tells you there is a multi thousand dollar wedding ring that was lost there, you have to try.
The Racer 2 Pro Pack is a good investment because the round 5½" coil is a nice complement for the standard 7X11, but you already have that coil set-up for your FORS Relic. I would get a 5½X10 coil for at least one of the two, and I have been trying to get an answer from the Nokta Distributor [size=small](Kellyco)[/size] as to why they do not have the 5½X10 Concentric coil in stock.Stoof-tabsallday said:I'll take your points into consideration and most likely will be purchasing the r2 pro pack and the 5.5/10 coil as well.
I am checking, and I don't think any 'ground' is really perfect or not for different types of coils as most work reasonably well with our modern detectors, DD or Concentric. Actually most makes and models do better with a Concentric than a Do8ble-D coil, overall, but there have been too many myths spoken about DD's and "highly mineralized" ground that it seems to be a trend for people to comment as if it were 100% true, and it isn't.Stoof-tabsallday said:Still can't find that 5.5x10 concentric for my relic. :-( my ground is perfect for a concentric and that size has quickly become my favorite.
The standard 7X11 DD is fine for hunting most sparse-target types of sites like parks and schools, or other open areas like a plowed fild, but the 5½" diameter round DD is an absolute must-have, and really must-use search coil for trashy places, working in and around brush or structures, and is really just a very versatile search coil for any-day use afield. You definitely need to learn it.Stoof-tabsallday said:Still haven't had to use the smallest 5" yet. I want to just to make sure it works right, but I have 2 years until the warranty is gone.
The small 5½" DD gets the most run-time on my Relic due to the very dense iron debris where I hunt most often. The 5½X10 Concentric gets used second most often when I work the fringe areas or ghost towns and other heavily littered sites, or less challenging sites where iron nails or clipped wire are usually the only ferrous trash items around and non-ferrous junk is also minimal. The least often used 7X11 DD coil only does service in plowed land or urban settings such as sports fields, or hunting a freshwater beach and those kinds of places.Stoof-tabsallday said:Thanks for the tips Monte!!
So far for all around I do like the 5.5x10 for my relic best, but also don't mint the 7x11 for field areas.
No, not really. The only time they don't stay in the vehicle is when high and low extremes are at the point where I wouldn't want to be in there either. When we get wintry days with snow on the ground and /or when temperatures stay below freezing day and night, I take them in the house. If summer heat gets above 100° day-after-day, I usually take them in the house unless there are sites I plan to night hunt.Stoof-tabsallday said:So you aren't worried about the heat leaving detectors in your vehicle?
Most of our cars, vans and pick-ups have AM/FM radios, CD players, and even DVD players in them and we don't remove them for the summer heat. Many have electronic devices for gauges in the instrument panel in place of the old needle meters, and we don't remove them in the heat. Direct sunlight through the windows might sometimes hit some of these devices directly, but for the most part they are sheltered from direct sunlight and light-contact heating.Stoof-tabsallday said:The only reason I don't leave and in my car is the heat in the summer. Thought they would get damaged.
Just be ready to put in enough time to learn it well, and also be prepared to appreciate just how impressive the small 5½" diameter DD performs. Use it enough, especially in brushy or confined spaces or in heavily littered places, and you just might be inclined to consider using it much more often.Stoof-tabsallday said:P.s. I'll have to give that tiny 5" coils a try soon.