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Reasonable repair time?

Don't know about phone call, but if they hire another admin person to handle more phone calls then they have to raise the hourly charge to cover their wages, a tech brings in income, admins answering phones don't..
 
Flbchbm said:
There is a way to save your settings on the FC but it isn't automatic. There is a procedure in the owners manual on how to do it. I have never bothered to learn the procedure because it isn't that much of a bother to change the settings. Most of yhe time the default settings work just fine for me. I believe both Monte and Keith Southern have used all the detectors you mentioned and they would be the ones to give you good advice as far as getting a FC.
It isn't automatic but it is very simple. That way you can have the unit turn on in the mode you prefer and settings you desire to get started.

I have several different models, even some the same, that I equip with the search coils I most want to use, and they start up in the program I feel fits the need most for that program based upon the density of trash at a site, and the type of trash, such as rusty nails and cut wire to the more annoying rusty tin, bottle caps, and similar sheet-type man made crappy ferrous stuff.. Also based on the search coil I have mounted and ready-to-go.

Also, I generally have my programs saved to be pretty 'hot' as it is easier to know if a Sensitivity/gain setting is too high and then reduce it rather than start off wimpy and gradually increase the setting. My ID Mask [size=small](Discrimination)[/size] is set pretty low, and on the FORS Relic I also keep the Iron Audio Volume at a setting of '1' or '2' the bulk of the time.


Flbchbm said:
My experience is limited to only the FC. I like mine a lot but I see the need to have another detector on hand so if one goes down I am not out of the hunt.
The FORS CoRe is a dandy detector for multi-purpose hunting and I am sorry to hear Kellyco took so long to address your repair service. Much longer than I ever would have expected from a Distributor/Service Center. I always have at least two detectors, and often three or more [size=small](as noted below in my Signature).[/size]


Flbchbm said:
Just ordered a lightly used Whites MXSport today from Richard at Backwoods and am looking forward to testing it out this week. (By the way, so far communication is excellent from Richard and he has already shipped the detector.)
Richard is a good guy to do business with, and I just hope the MX Sport you are going to receive has the most recent [size=small](3rd revision)[/size] update and works well for you.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
For my relic is says to press and hols the up or down from main screen for at least 4 seconds even after the menu appears then hit the "-" button with the other button still pressed to save the settings.
Stefan, that is correct. I usually press the Down Arrow ... after the display has reset to the search setting ... then hold it for 4 to 6 seconds and press the '-' button for it to save and hold all of the display and function settings..


Stoof-tabsallday said:
If you do the same but press "+" then it restores to factory settings in case you mess up and can't get it back to normal.
Yep.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Same procedure?!?
Yes, you do it just the same.

Monte
 
So, Monte...
Considering I already have the relic is there any need to get the core?
 
Regressive:
An adjective, meaning the opposite of Progressive, thus acquiring a device that is
less advanced, such as selecting a less developed or less featured former model.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
So, Monte...
Considering I already have the relic is there any need to get the core?
Good question and the key word in your question is 'need.'

The only person who can really determine if there is a 'need' is you, or anyone considering buying a top-quality, high-performance model that paved the way for the more featured and different frequency similar-appearing model you currently own. This decision is kind of tricky because it is a little different than buying a different brand with a different level of performance and functional adjustments.

I have enjoyed hearing and using analogies all my life to help explain or figure out these types of questions, so let me use a couple that quickly came to mind when I read your post:

Let's say someone owns a 4" bbl. revolver that has adjustable rear sights and a red or other colored insert in the front sight, and perhaps a rounded and slightly wider 'combat' trigger. Since they already have that handgun, is there any need for them to acquire a same-brand model, in the same caliber with a 4" bbl. but with a standard trigger and fixed blued sights? Only they can answer that question. In my opinion I have been there many times and the answer has almost always been 'Yes,' because MY desire at the time was really more of a 'want' than a 'need.'

Let me pick on a different detector brand for a moment and refer to someone who has a Tesoro Bandido II [size=small]micro[/size]MAX that features a manual Ground Balance control, a mode-selector switch to choose All Metal or Discriminate modes, and another toggle selector to select manual retune or auto-retune in All Metal. Would they 'need' to acquire a similar-looking and close-performing Silver Sabre µMAX [size=small](microMAX)[/size]? Only they can answer that, just as I have, because it was more of a 'want' than a 'need.' Therefore it isn't something anyone can answer for another.

"To each their own" might be an appropriate answer to fit this question. I was fortunate to first own the FORS CoRe and was able to learn it and know its capabilities and strengths, and appreciate how it performed for me. I have that same FORS CoRe and keep the 'OOR' coil mounted full-time because I hunt very iron littered sites most often. I also have three FORS Relic models, as noted below as I just acquired another Relic [size=small](Thanks, Don H.)[/size] for my detector battery so I could keep them each equipped with a different search coil.

I have my two favorite Tesoro's, two Makro Racer 2's, two Gold Racer's and trio of Relics, and still have the desire to make sure my CoRe is at-the-ready in my personal arsenal because all of these detectors work well for me and my needs and wants. So only you can determine what your own needs and wants might be.

Monte
 
Haha point taken Monte.
To be honest I'm waiting. Like many, for the impact.
But I don't own any makes yet. Now although the performance between Makro and Nokta are so close as far as features that many call them kissing cousins.

I have a bit of a different question for you then...
Since my relic and the racer 2 are very similar as far as features but completely different layout as far as screens and menus etc. I've already been leaning towards picking one up.
Since functionally they are very similar but ergonomically and visually they are completely different would that be more of a lateral move?
I know you own both so curious to know why you have both. I like the idea of the screen up front, but I don't mind the layout and balance of my relic at all.
Thanks Monte. Your point of view matters and you have a whole lot of knowledge. You have forgotten more than I will ever learn about detecting, but I'm working on it. Eventually I'll thin out the heard a bit and keep my favs but for now I'm enjoying the variety and learning process.
 
Stoof-tabsallday said:
Haha point taken Monte.
To be honest I'm waiting. Like many, for the impact.
Yes, I am also eager to get an evaluation unit, but my eagerness is complemented by the fact that Nokta isn't rushing it into production like some manufacturers have done, over many decades, just to try and keep up or try to capture some of the market because their sales were waning. I have to commend the Nokta & Makro Detector 'team' as they put a lot of time and effort into listening to the consumer base as well as working on the R&D to provide a truly finished product by the time of model release announcement. Other makers ought to sit up and take note, if they haven't already.

The Impact was a long-range plan of design and development and I feel they will have most of the bugs addressed by the time they get a few pre-production prototypes out for evaluation and final input. Will the Impact be a thought-out model with more than enough adjustment features? It sure looks that way, and that means it will not be a model to appeal to everyone, especially the average 'Hobbyist' and those who only have periodic involvement in the detecting sport.

That said, I believe the Nokta Impact will appeal to a good number of the more serious or 'Avid Detectorists' because it will provide ample functional performance for a wide range of applications. And while that will be good, it certainly won't overshadow or diminish the excellent performance we get from the Racer series or the FORS CoRe, Gold + and Relic models. They will continue to surpass most of the completion out there quite easily in a lot of serious hunting in tough, challenging sites.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
But I don't own any makes yet. Now although the performance between Makro and Nokta are so close as far as features that many call them kissing cousins.
They are 'close' in many ways, but there are discernible, subtle differences a savvy operator can learn from using them.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
I have a bit of a different question for you then...
Since my relic and the racer 2 are very similar as far as features but completely different layout as far as screens and menus etc. I've already been leaning towards picking one up.
Adding a Racer 2 to your current detector arsenal to complement the FORS Relic might be the better option than getting the FORS CoRe, but, as I stated before, it is really a matter of personal want and not need. I really enjoy my FORS CoRe and it is a solid stay-put model in my detector battery.

However, so is the Makro Racer 2, and that is due to the display position, the displayed information, and the extra adjustment features the Racer 2 has that is not found on a current Nokta model.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Since functionally they are very similar but ergonomically and visually they are completely different would that be more of a lateral move?
Yes, in my opinion, it would be. Both the Racer series and FORS series models can be used for Coin & Jewelry Hunting, Relic Hunting and Gold Nugget Hunting, but I tend to grab my Racer 2's more often for urban Coin & Jewelry Hunting. They just have a good 'fit' for me, in both adjustment features and audio performance.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
I know you own both so curious to know why you have both.
How about this .... 'Why Not??' .....

While that's likely a good answer, I have both for two reasons. One, I was provided each pre-production model to evaluate, as was Keith and others elsewhere, and Two, they both appealed to me quite impressively. Other than the proto-type units I got a factory production unit, and last week I bought another production FORS Relic from a fellow in Washington who admired what depth and performance it gave, but he is more of a Coin Hunter and didn't understand or learn how to deal with the responsiveness to more challenging ferrous trash, and that means sheet-type iron like bottle caps, rusty tin, etc.

So, since I know how well the Relic performs for me and where I mostly hunt, and to be ready-to-go at any location, I simply nabbed it so I could keep a different search coil mounted on each of them. I have done this for decades, even going back to the early '70s to late '70s when I started having two of each model to keep a smaller-than-stock and stock coil at-the-ready all the time.

As noted in my Signature below, I have a Relic w/5½" DD. the newly acquired with a 5½X10 Concentric coil mounted, and the pre-production revised unit with a 7X11 DD attached. The Racer 2's have a standard 7X11 DD for the sparse-target, wide-open parks and the like, and another with either an 'OOR' coil or 5½" round DD coil mounted and ready-to-grab for trashy conditions. They all have a place and use in my arsenal for sites I hunt, urban and rural.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
I like the idea of the screen up front, but I don't mind the layout and balance of my relic at all.
For most of my relic Hunting I rely almost completely on the audio response but do occasionally glance at the numeric display in the hand-grip. That's really all I need, and if I want to know the MMI at a location I can bob the coil then glance at the side display. For more urban Coin & Jewelry Hunting I do make use of the visual display more frequently and for that the Racer series shows me all I need to know


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Thanks Monte. Your point of view matters and you have a whole lot of knowledge. You have forgotten more than I will ever learn about detecting, but I'm working on it.
Thank you for the kind words, but I will say that nobody knows it all, and everyone should constantly be learning. I know that for over 51 years now I have used the same philosophy whenever I grab any detector, indoors or out, whether in a dealer's shop, at home, in a discussion with anyone out detecting or doing a seminar. That is this:

"There are two things I want to do whenever I turn a metal detector on:
#1, is to learn something new, or refresh my memory of things I have learned in the past.
#2, is to use the skills and techniques I have learned to enjoy the hunt, have fun, and find something of interest.
The harder I work on #1, the more enjoyable the hunt and success I can have afield with #2."


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Eventually I'll thin out the heard a bit and keep my favs but for now I'm enjoying the variety and learning process.
Again, the word 'decades' comes to mind as that is what I have done, thin-the-herd, many times over many decades, and top-end performing detectors are the ones that hang around the longest. I don't see the performance on any detector I currently own and use being overshadowed by the completion so I feel quite confident and well inventoried for a long time to come. Now it is more a matter of researching and getting onto new and better-producing sites to hunt. :)

Monte
 
Haha thanks again Monte.
Yes I found a gent that will give me a stellar deal on a racer 2 so I'm saving for that now but not really in a rush.
Since about 3 wells ago and back to march I've been grabbing detectors like crazy and living every minute of it.
But now it's time to learn what I have while saving for the racer 2.
Biggest thing now is me getting it there and swinging.
I am torn between which detector(s) to bring and use so I usually change them often as well as pick the ones best suited for the area.

Definitely high on my list is putting in time with my relic. It's my nicest and most feature filled machine and I need to learn it's subtleties and language. I'm sure it will surpass all as my favorite, but I seem to grab it for the worst hunts. Haha.
Gregg suggested I grab just my relic and coils for it and only that and get to a park where there's more of a chance of finding good targets.
I unfairly have been using it on a ring specific target area where I'm beginning to think the ring isn't anymore lol. But when someone tells you there is a multi thousand dollar wedding ring that was lost there, you have to try. Haha.

I'll take your points into consideration and most likely will be purchasing the r2 pro pack and the 5.5/10 coil as well.

Still can't find that 5.5x10 concentric for my relic. :-( my ground is perfect for a concentric and that size has quickly become my favorite.
Still haven't had to use the smallest 5" yet. I want to just to make sure it works right, but I have 2 years until the warranty is gone.
 
Stoof-tabsallday said:
Yes I found a gent that will give me a stellar deal on a racer 2 so I'm saving for that now but not really in a rush.
No real need to rush another detector since you have a mixed bag of units now and that can confuse anyone trying to learn different model designs. Just concentrate on learning and mastering the more versatile [size=small](thus more useful)[/size] models, and maybe thin down what you have acquired. Then you will be more prepared to acquire and learn a new Racer 2.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Since about 3 wells ago and back to march I've been grabbing detectors like crazy and living every minute of it.
But now it's time to learn what I have while saving for the racer 2.
Biggest thing now is me getting it there and swinging.
Yes, it really is a matter of getting out and working one detector an ample amount and learning it well, and the FORS Relic is the best I see in your current detector arsenal, plus one other that has long been a favorite of mine. I'd suggest you concentrate on learning the them as well as the more functional search coils for them.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
I am torn between which detector(s) to bring and use so I usually change them often as well as pick the ones best suited for the area.
A lot depends upon the type of vehicle you have and how much room it affords, not to mention a personal-use or family-use vehicle. I know folks with younger kids and they wouldn't dare leave even one detector in their car, van or pick-up for fear it would be damaged. Some have a mini or full-size van and have room to safely store a detector or two or three.

Many live in a more populated city and/or close to a questionable area where they fear break-in and theft, and then there are those of us who live in a more rural setting or in a small and more secure-feeling smaller town, and we're at the point we no longer have kids at home and can keep our vehicle ready-to-go most of the time, night and day. I might add an extra detector or two when I have a specific destination to hunt that calls for its use, such as when heading out for some dedicated Gold Nugget Hunting. While my FORS Relic's can handle the need, I will also add my FORS Gold + and Makro Gold Racer and have the 5½" round DD and 5½X10 DD coils ready-to-go.

If I am headed for a beach area or planning to go to a city and hunt sports fields, then I include a 7X11 DD coil for a Racer 2, Relic and CoRe. Usually I don't have a 7X11 DD coil with me because I hunt trashier or brush-confined spaces the bulk of the time and only need an 'OOR' coil [size=small](for the CoRe & Racer 2)[/size] or round 5½" DD coil [size=small](for the Relic and Racer 2)[/size], and an often-used 5½X10 Concentric [size=small](I keep mounted on a Relic)[/size] for modest trash sites.

My good friend and travel buddy, Miss Rikki, rides on the front seat of my vehicle and on the back seat of my GMC Sierra pick-up rides a FORS CoRe w/'OOR', Relic w/5½X10 DD, Relic w/5½" DD, and Racer 2 w/'OOR' or 5½" DD. That leaves room when I am off for a longer journey of more than a day when I might add a Gold Racer or Bandido II [size=small]micro[/size]MAX, all depending upon where I am going and what types of sites I plan to search.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Definitely high on my list is putting in time with my relic. It's my nicest and most feature filled machine and I need to learn it's subtleties and language. I'm sure it will surpass all as my favorite, but I seem to grab it for the worst hunts.
My Relic is the most often grabbed detector, unless I am mainly Coin Hunting most typical locations in which case I grab the Racer 2. Both are very close/similar in performance, but we can each determine subtle differences we happen to favor, and for me and my more frequented hunting environments, the Relic is tops.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Gregg suggested I grab just my relic and coils for it and only that and get to a park where there's more of a chance of finding good targets.
I unfairly have been using it on a ring specific target area where I'm beginning to think the ring isn't anymore lol. But when someone tells you there is a multi thousand dollar wedding ring that was lost there, you have to try.
Yes, I would also definitely not give up on the search for a lost and valuable ring, but Gregg's suggestion is a good one. To use a local park and Coin Hunt to get to learn and know the Relic better ... and that includes all of the search coils you have for it.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
I'll take your points into consideration and most likely will be purchasing the r2 pro pack and the 5.5/10 coil as well.
The Racer 2 Pro Pack is a good investment because the round 5½" coil is a nice complement for the standard 7X11, but you already have that coil set-up for your FORS Relic. I would get a 5½X10 coil for at least one of the two, and I have been trying to get an answer from the Nokta Distributor [size=small](Kellyco)[/size] as to why they do not have the 5½X10 Concentric coil in stock.

I called them again this morning and was told by the fellow he would have to ask the president of the company why they don't stock that. I pointed out to him that it is a Nokta coil that works with the Gold + and Relic, and that they are supposed to be the Distributors here in the USA, and if that means supplying a dealer, they should have the4 inventory on-hand. They have my phone number and e-mail and I haven't hear from them yet. Figures ....


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Still can't find that 5.5x10 concentric for my relic. :-( my ground is perfect for a concentric and that size has quickly become my favorite.
I am checking, and I don't think any 'ground' is really perfect or not for different types of coils as most work reasonably well with our modern detectors, DD or Concentric. Actually most makes and models do better with a Concentric than a Do8ble-D coil, overall, but there have been too many myths spoken about DD's and "highly mineralized" ground that it seems to be a trend for people to comment as if it were 100% true, and it isn't.

Some brands and specific models, such as a Tesoro Silver Sabre or Bandido II or Bandido II µMAX or Tejón, really most Tesoro's, will perform much better in most environments with a Concentric coil than a DD of a similar size. That includes hunt in a very trash and dense iron nail environment. That's due to how they were designed to operate in the first place. The Makro Racer series and the Nokta FORS series were designed to operate with various sizes of Double-D search coils, but to their credit they also perform splendidly with the 5½X10 Concentric coil.

The same size DD coil also works well, but I keep that one mounted to my Gold Plus with a round 5½" DD as back-up, and the 5½X10 Concentric affixed to one of my Relic's, and I prefer the Concentric for most of the Relic Hunting and C&J Hunting I do with the Relic.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
Still haven't had to use the smallest 5" yet. I want to just to make sure it works right, but I have 2 years until the warranty is gone.
The standard 7X11 DD is fine for hunting most sparse-target types of sites like parks and schools, or other open areas like a plowed fild, but the 5½" diameter round DD is an absolute must-have, and really must-use search coil for trashy places, working in and around brush or structures, and is really just a very versatile search coil for any-day use afield. You definitely need to learn it.

Monte
 
Thanks for the tips Monte!!
So far for all around I do like the 5.5x10 for my relic best, but also don't mint the 7x11 for field areas.
So you aren't worried about the heat leaving detectors in your vehicle? The only reason I don't leave and in my car is the heat in the summer. Thought they would get damaged.
P.s. I'll have to give that tiny 5" coils a try soon.
 
Stoof-tabsallday said:
Thanks for the tips Monte!!
So far for all around I do like the 5.5x10 for my relic best, but also don't mint the 7x11 for field areas.
The small 5½" DD gets the most run-time on my Relic due to the very dense iron debris where I hunt most often. The 5½X10 Concentric gets used second most often when I work the fringe areas or ghost towns and other heavily littered sites, or less challenging sites where iron nails or clipped wire are usually the only ferrous trash items around and non-ferrous junk is also minimal. The least often used 7X11 DD coil only does service in plowed land or urban settings such as sports fields, or hunting a freshwater beach and those kinds of places.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
So you aren't worried about the heat leaving detectors in your vehicle?
No, not really. The only time they don't stay in the vehicle is when high and low extremes are at the point where I wouldn't want to be in there either. When we get wintry days with snow on the ground and /or when temperatures stay below freezing day and night, I take them in the house. If summer heat gets above 100° day-after-day, I usually take them in the house unless there are sites I plan to night hunt.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
The only reason I don't leave and in my car is the heat in the summer. Thought they would get damaged.
Most of our cars, vans and pick-ups have AM/FM radios, CD players, and even DVD players in them and we don't remove them for the summer heat. Many have electronic devices for gauges in the instrument panel in place of the old needle meters, and we don't remove them in the heat. Direct sunlight through the windows might sometimes hit some of these devices directly, but for the most part they are sheltered from direct sunlight and light-contact heating.

Note: I never suggest storing detectors in a car trunk because even though there are no windows for direct light, they are confined spaces that do heat up and do not have adjustable ventilation.

When we deal with high heat in summer, the vehicles usually have a window down for venting fresh air, or we use AC when occupied to keep the vehicle comfortable. During the day I park under my carport, or whenever possible I try to park in some shade. I also might leave a window or two slightly open for ventilation. All this attention is complemented by the fact I have a couple of lightweight, white colored, hospital blankets I have used for decades. I cover all of my detectors son the back seat with one of these blankets, as well as tuck my headphones under the blanket, to keep everything sheltered from the direct sunlight. Also out of view, and the windows of my vehicles are usually well tinted, too.

I used to take my detectors in the house a lot, but early on that was just to tinker and air test and learn. Since early 1971 I have kept most of my regular-travel detectors on the back seat and used one of the light white blankets to cover them, and in these past 45 years I have never had a single issue related to sun or temperate extreme damage. That also means I have always been at-the-ready in my travels when I happen to come across any unplanned opportunity to detect a site, such as unexpected sidewalk tear-outs or renovation in an old parks, etc.


Stoof-tabsallday said:
P.s. I'll have to give that tiny 5" coils a try soon.
Just be ready to put in enough time to learn it well, and also be prepared to appreciate just how impressive the small 5½" diameter DD performs. Use it enough, especially in brushy or confined spaces or in heavily littered places, and you just might be inclined to consider using it much more often.

Monte
 
No turn around time here in NZ - simply make video of the problem -

Email it to Dilek and the replacement part is sent out - About a week or so

Guys that own the reputable US brands here have to box them up and ship them to the USA to be repaired - (well over a month turn around)

The cost of shipping both ways plus the service charges are just too expensive - Add the fact that one or two of the manufacturers will not just sell you the parts and its easy to see why international buyers prefer the Turkish method of service -

If you couple that with the fact that the big US manufacturers have made it virtually impossible for international buyers to purchase from a US retailer direct - I am in NZ and prefer to spend my cash in the same country that makes the gear - I also trust a number of the retailers in the US as well -

Still, if that's how they want to run their corporations then that's fine with me -
 
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