Remember that the DFX programs were all setup low or calm, set for stability rather than for maximum depth and performance while the programs on the V3 (on the other hand) were set up HOT and may need some calming down in some ground... so that they will perform to the expectations of the DFX user. Especially if the DFX user has stayed with the factory settings.
The DFX the user is encouraged to start out with the mild factory settings and increase the gain and sens etc as the user becomes more experienced. The V3 the user may have to turn some settings down to gain stability in some ground or situations.
If you stayed with factory DFX settings you were probably getting good stability but not maximum depth (but stll good depth and performance). You might try turning things down a little on the V3 to get it to perform more like the DFX.
It was a White's design idea to set the DFX factory settings up calm. They decided the opposite with the V3, to set the factory settings up HOT. The two detectors are really similar in many ways and thinking about the way the factory settings are set up may help anyone to understand how to set up the V3, especially anyone who is an experienced DFX user.
J
The DFX the user is encouraged to start out with the mild factory settings and increase the gain and sens etc as the user becomes more experienced. The V3 the user may have to turn some settings down to gain stability in some ground or situations.
If you stayed with factory DFX settings you were probably getting good stability but not maximum depth (but stll good depth and performance). You might try turning things down a little on the V3 to get it to perform more like the DFX.
It was a White's design idea to set the DFX factory settings up calm. They decided the opposite with the V3, to set the factory settings up HOT. The two detectors are really similar in many ways and thinking about the way the factory settings are set up may help anyone to understand how to set up the V3, especially anyone who is an experienced DFX user.
J