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NEW HUNTER. NEED ADVICE
- Thread starter jgyarddog24
- Start date
1. After you buy your machine work it over each target well, listen to it from every direction, and dig nearly everything at first. You will learn discrimination later. Try to guess what you have first, iron, non-iron, what metal. Copper coins are the easiest.
2. You will dig a lot of trash. That gives you experience both in digging and how to read the machine. Remember gold = aluminum some times.
3. Now look for more interesting areas. New parks will yield more new stuff. History takes a little searching and reading. Towns that are small today may have been very busy years ago. Old trails and paths. Places that may have had a view 100 years ago might now be forest.
I had the good fortune to start hunting in a place where there was a lot of activity in the past and not much in the last 100 years. The first site I hunted yielded brass gun hardware and coins from the 1800s. My very first coin with a BH Sharpshooter (borrowed) was a 1889 Victoria 3 pence. My second was a 1859 Victoria large Canada cent from the same site in 2 days. Most of the site was in tall grass and I have not hunted there since. That is my ace in the hole spot. There is no modern junk. If you can find a site like that it is sweet!
HH
1859
Landstar, QD2 and a Minelab Xterra-70
2. You will dig a lot of trash. That gives you experience both in digging and how to read the machine. Remember gold = aluminum some times.
3. Now look for more interesting areas. New parks will yield more new stuff. History takes a little searching and reading. Towns that are small today may have been very busy years ago. Old trails and paths. Places that may have had a view 100 years ago might now be forest.
I had the good fortune to start hunting in a place where there was a lot of activity in the past and not much in the last 100 years. The first site I hunted yielded brass gun hardware and coins from the 1800s. My very first coin with a BH Sharpshooter (borrowed) was a 1889 Victoria 3 pence. My second was a 1859 Victoria large Canada cent from the same site in 2 days. Most of the site was in tall grass and I have not hunted there since. That is my ace in the hole spot. There is no modern junk. If you can find a site like that it is sweet!
HH
1859
Landstar, QD2 and a Minelab Xterra-70
dougmoore34
New member
I love my old Discovery 2200 and my F-75 is a dream machine (hate the AA batteries) and I saved my pennies and bought a 4th generation Time Ranger (I love it too). Ya know that old Discovery 2200 cost me $35.00 at a garage sale and once I learned to listen to it I could hunt with and sometimes outhunt the 'big boys'. sure the more costly machines have great features, but are they really worth it? Not always (in my case and opinion). When I swing the 75 I use the trigger for pinpointing and ground balancing I love that, but you have to really stop and think about things like your: Sensitivity, Discrimination Level, Process#. I find myself spending more time looking at the machine than the dirt (it is cool to look at). Now my brother actually uses the machine (unlike my watching it work). On the Time Ranger I live for the SNIFF (to target specific object types) and BLANK (to ignore specific objects). I also spend a lot of time missing many contacts because of those features (thats a good and bad thing). The low cost low featured Discovery 2200 remains the unsung hero throughout it all. It has just enough features to force you to look at the screen once in a while, but not enough to captivate someone (even someone as simple as myself).
If learned a lower priced machine can and will perform with the costly ones. Will you miss things? Sure it happens with every single detector on the market that I have heard of. There is no guarantee that any one machine will do it all (none that they can live up to anyway). Anyone can claim whatever they swing is without a doubt the very finest machine in its class, but it doesn't mean that they are correct other than to say that they endorse this or that machine or brand. Within reason any machine will perform well in the right hands.
So back to what Dirt Jockey said (and very well). It will matter more how much time you spend learning the machine than the price point you meet when buying the machine. I could probably name another 10 machines that have features I like, but it doesn't mean they are right for me and the detecting I do most. It has taken me 4 different detectors to do that much and if I had to get rid of all but one...(makes me sad to think about...) I suppose I would keep my TR since as I learn it I love it more and more. It's all just opinion, but if you don't learn the machine the money spent will have been for nothing in the first place.
Lets see in a nutshell...my 2200 is my fast swing coin shooter in fairly clean parks. My 75 is all about the gold baby (operates at 13htz) and it's the only one that works great at the beach. My outback is water-proofed and goes in the lake. The Time Ranger goes everyplace except into the water, but is perfect for construction site sweeps.
Confusing enough? Yep, me too. Buy whatever machine you can afford that gets you the features you want and then spend the next year digging every pop tab and contact you can find. After a year of digging plugs and stealing all the knowledge the old timers around here are willing to part with your detector should have found enough to buy your next machine or at least put a huge dent in the price.
Good luck and happy hunting,
Doug in OR
If learned a lower priced machine can and will perform with the costly ones. Will you miss things? Sure it happens with every single detector on the market that I have heard of. There is no guarantee that any one machine will do it all (none that they can live up to anyway). Anyone can claim whatever they swing is without a doubt the very finest machine in its class, but it doesn't mean that they are correct other than to say that they endorse this or that machine or brand. Within reason any machine will perform well in the right hands.
So back to what Dirt Jockey said (and very well). It will matter more how much time you spend learning the machine than the price point you meet when buying the machine. I could probably name another 10 machines that have features I like, but it doesn't mean they are right for me and the detecting I do most. It has taken me 4 different detectors to do that much and if I had to get rid of all but one...(makes me sad to think about...) I suppose I would keep my TR since as I learn it I love it more and more. It's all just opinion, but if you don't learn the machine the money spent will have been for nothing in the first place.
Lets see in a nutshell...my 2200 is my fast swing coin shooter in fairly clean parks. My 75 is all about the gold baby (operates at 13htz) and it's the only one that works great at the beach. My outback is water-proofed and goes in the lake. The Time Ranger goes everyplace except into the water, but is perfect for construction site sweeps.
Confusing enough? Yep, me too. Buy whatever machine you can afford that gets you the features you want and then spend the next year digging every pop tab and contact you can find. After a year of digging plugs and stealing all the knowledge the old timers around here are willing to part with your detector should have found enough to buy your next machine or at least put a huge dent in the price.
Good luck and happy hunting,
Doug in OR
silversmith
New member
Hi and welcome to hobby. The Time Ranger looks like a omnipotent detector, but, way to many bells and whistles for your first detector. Why not get a Tracker IV for you first unit. They're cheap, my kid loves his, the when you get a bunch of experience, then graduate to the Time Ranger. Good luck however way you go. 
Ed,
I'm trying to determine the differences between the current version 4 and the previous versions.
The image you have for the previous versions have Blue push buttons.
The image you have for the current version looks almost like it has either been changed to Grey buttons, or that is a Black and White image.
So can you tell me if the buttons on version 4 have really changed to Grey or is that a Black and White image?
A few other ways to tell the difference that I noticed is that the earlier versions had an arrow for the Blanker meter when the unit was turned on and the numbers 2,0,4 on that meter.
The new version 4 appeards to have no arrow ,and the meter has a 4 on one end and a + on the other end.
I also noticed a few other differences. Version 4 calls the lower second buttom from the right "Program Select" while the older units refer to it as "Preset"
This would be one very handy way to tell even if the unit isn't turned on.
Another difference is that version 4 states "BATT" while the previous versions state "BATTERY".
So there are quite a few different ways to tell a version 4 from the previous versions but I was just wanting to know the answer to that button color question.
James
I'm trying to determine the differences between the current version 4 and the previous versions.
The image you have for the previous versions have Blue push buttons.
The image you have for the current version looks almost like it has either been changed to Grey buttons, or that is a Black and White image.
So can you tell me if the buttons on version 4 have really changed to Grey or is that a Black and White image?
A few other ways to tell the difference that I noticed is that the earlier versions had an arrow for the Blanker meter when the unit was turned on and the numbers 2,0,4 on that meter.
The new version 4 appeards to have no arrow ,and the meter has a 4 on one end and a + on the other end.
I also noticed a few other differences. Version 4 calls the lower second buttom from the right "Program Select" while the older units refer to it as "Preset"
This would be one very handy way to tell even if the unit isn't turned on.
Another difference is that version 4 states "BATT" while the previous versions state "BATTERY".
So there are quite a few different ways to tell a version 4 from the previous versions but I was just wanting to know the answer to that button color question.
James
I did a little more research and found a color photo of the old versions and the current version 4.
Most sellers haven't updated their photo's yet so if your looking for a version 4 make sure to ask them first encase they have older stock.
Older versions:
[attachment 121441 TimeRangerEarly.jpg]
New version 4:
[attachment 121442 TimeRangerVersion4.jpg]
I hope this helps, it did me.
James
Most sellers haven't updated their photo's yet so if your looking for a version 4 make sure to ask them first encase they have older stock.
Older versions:
[attachment 121441 TimeRangerEarly.jpg]
New version 4:
[attachment 121442 TimeRangerVersion4.jpg]
I hope this helps, it did me.
James
Ed in SoDak
Member
Hi James,
I just put up whatever graphic or pic I found or had on the confuser with no regards to color, looks like it's always been blue buttons. My older TR doesn't have a "P1" display, I assume that's for "Program 1" of the choices you get by pressing the Program Select button.
-Ed
I just put up whatever graphic or pic I found or had on the confuser with no regards to color, looks like it's always been blue buttons. My older TR doesn't have a "P1" display, I assume that's for "Program 1" of the choices you get by pressing the Program Select button.
-Ed
cad master
New member
I started metal detecting in 1980 with a Heathkit detector. It came as a kit and I had to assemble it before I could get out and play with it. The Heathkit has worked well over the years but a lot has changed in metal detector technology since 1980. Three years ago I decided to purchase a new machine and bought a Pioneer 202 which is made by Bounty Hunter. I've never been happier. It took a few outings to understand what the 202 was telling me but I think that's only because I've been using the Heathkit all these years. After reading this forum as well as a few others I've come to the conclusion that detectors are like cars. There are people that are Ford people, some are Chrysler people and some are Chevy people. They will all try to convince you that their brand is the best. I
My opinion is that they all work, they all find coins and jewelry as long as you stick with the name brands like Whites, Garrett, Fisher, Bounty Hunter, etc. you'll be happy with which ever one you decide on buying. This is a hobby you can really get hooked on.
Lee
My opinion is that they all work, they all find coins and jewelry as long as you stick with the name brands like Whites, Garrett, Fisher, Bounty Hunter, etc. you'll be happy with which ever one you decide on buying. This is a hobby you can really get hooked on.
Lee