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My Etrac is a POS
- Thread starter CDDZ
- Start date
RandyNorthridgeca
New member
Sorry to hear your having a problem with the your new E-Trac. Sounds like you have a bad coil.
Have you tried resetting it to factory setting? If not go to your manual and find reset in the table of contents and follow the instructions.
If you're using the rechargeable power pack you might want to try using the extra battery back they send which needs batteries and see if it makes a difference.
Hope you get it fixed soon.
Good Luck
Have you tried resetting it to factory setting? If not go to your manual and find reset in the table of contents and follow the instructions.
If you're using the rechargeable power pack you might want to try using the extra battery back they send which needs batteries and see if it makes a difference.
Hope you get it fixed soon.
Good Luck
Where abouts are you in central ohio??
I am outside Marion and if you are close by i am willing to help you out...
I have 2 etracs and i have not had any problems taking them straight from the box and using them...i am hearing more problems like yours so they may have a bad batch of coils...
You can reach me at teverly@hotmail.com.
I am outside Marion and if you are close by i am willing to help you out...
I have 2 etracs and i have not had any problems taking them straight from the box and using them...i am hearing more problems like yours so they may have a bad batch of coils...
You can reach me at teverly@hotmail.com.
sharpshooter
Member
If you are not happy with it, then you should sell it.
Good Luck with your next detector.
Good Luck with your next detector.
You are right to hold the coil in the air and not on the ground when noise cancelling.
Have you tried using fast=on; deep=on; ferrous; 2 tones; relic pattern; pitch hold. You might enlarge the relic pattern slightly or run the "iron mask" up a few notches to where it is about where the top of the blocked out area is on the relic pattern... like to about 30. Mine is much quieter in ferrous/2 tone. you just get an iron grunt and a higher tone if there is something non-ferrous. Don't expect perfect numbers did some from the tones. You'll dig some iron to be sure but you'll also start to trust the conductive number. Stay in Auto sens, even an even auto (no plus or minus) if it is still noisy try auto-1, 2, or 3. I almost always run auto+3 and when I do hunt in manual, it is usually 28 but I rarely if ever find anything in manual what will not also signal in auto+3, but it could happen, more in less mineralized groung though I think.
Try that same ground where you are having trouble by burying a few coins at 3 to 5 inches and see if you can hit them. I have hunted one place where I found nothing... a 145+ yo Victorian home... nothing.. nada. I tried every machine I have. Finally I buried three coins at about 5" and they promptly disappeared to every machine I own. The lawn is pretty much cinder from an old RR depot that used to be across the street and it completely masks everything. Some machines work well at some sites and some don't.
I hope you get this figured out. (now i'll read the rest of the posts..)
J
Have you tried using fast=on; deep=on; ferrous; 2 tones; relic pattern; pitch hold. You might enlarge the relic pattern slightly or run the "iron mask" up a few notches to where it is about where the top of the blocked out area is on the relic pattern... like to about 30. Mine is much quieter in ferrous/2 tone. you just get an iron grunt and a higher tone if there is something non-ferrous. Don't expect perfect numbers did some from the tones. You'll dig some iron to be sure but you'll also start to trust the conductive number. Stay in Auto sens, even an even auto (no plus or minus) if it is still noisy try auto-1, 2, or 3. I almost always run auto+3 and when I do hunt in manual, it is usually 28 but I rarely if ever find anything in manual what will not also signal in auto+3, but it could happen, more in less mineralized groung though I think.
Try that same ground where you are having trouble by burying a few coins at 3 to 5 inches and see if you can hit them. I have hunted one place where I found nothing... a 145+ yo Victorian home... nothing.. nada. I tried every machine I have. Finally I buried three coins at about 5" and they promptly disappeared to every machine I own. The lawn is pretty much cinder from an old RR depot that used to be across the street and it completely masks everything. Some machines work well at some sites and some don't.
I hope you get this figured out. (now i'll read the rest of the posts..)
J
OhioCoinHunter
New member
I am also willing to help. I'll be at the club hunt at Goodale this Sunday.
I will see if I can swing over that way Sunday. I noticed a lot of people offering advise, I appreciate it, but I think some of you neglected to read what I said in the OP. I have tried all of the suggestions prior to posting it, I think that is why I am most frustrated with the machine. I understand how this machines' disc works and the nulling. Today's hunt was decent, not a ton of chatter. I really believe it is the coil, possibly a bad insulator in one of the windings causing eddy current, which could cause the ultra sensitivity to mineral content of the soil.
If you can get hold of a multimeter and test for the resistance or any shorts of the Pro stock coil at it's connector:
MY PRO stock coil connector, on a digital LCD reading of my multimeter shows:
Pins 1 and 2...................Fluctuating between 01.1 and 01.3 ohms
Pins 2 and 3................... Fluctuating between 05.5 and 05.6 ohms
There is NO measurable continuity anywhere else and the readings should only vary slightly as the standard. If there is a short within a coil that is the cause of a problem, then I THINK ,these readings should be altered greatly.
david di
MY PRO stock coil connector, on a digital LCD reading of my multimeter shows:
Pins 1 and 2...................Fluctuating between 01.1 and 01.3 ohms
Pins 2 and 3................... Fluctuating between 05.5 and 05.6 ohms
There is NO measurable continuity anywhere else and the readings should only vary slightly as the standard. If there is a short within a coil that is the cause of a problem, then I THINK ,these readings should be altered greatly.
david di
I appreciate you taking the time to check that, were you subtracting the internal resistance of your meter with those readings? All the ohms value I listed are without subtracting the internal resistance of the meter, assuming you did the samedavid.di said:
Pins 1 and 2 ............1.1ohms
pins 2 and 3 .............open
pins 3 and 4 ............. 5.9 ohms
I dident read all the Responses you got but a Buddy on mine had the same problem he switched coils and his unstable prob was gone,
He sent his coil off to Minelab and thay fund a pin on the coil that plugs in the Detector was broke so check the coil pins out,
Mickfin, Hope this Helps CDDZ,
He sent his coil off to Minelab and thay fund a pin on the coil that plugs in the Detector was broke so check the coil pins out,
Mickfin, Hope this Helps CDDZ,
Yes, tested just like you did.
Had my multimeter set to measure in the 200 ohm range, hence the decimal point placement.
It was a straight through measurement without any subtraction and just a check for resistance at those pins.
You probably have done so, but just in case you didn't , did you test for continuity from the outer metal casing of the coil-to-control box(Etrac head) connector for shorting to one of the 4 used pins?
The problem might be quite different if there was any shorting. None the less, it would also be a consideration.
Also
Did you also manage to gently twist and let's say "jostle" the curly cable at both ends of connection, ie: into the coil end and into the control box end connector with the multimeter to see if there where any notable variations?
david di
Had my multimeter set to measure in the 200 ohm range, hence the decimal point placement.
It was a straight through measurement without any subtraction and just a check for resistance at those pins.
You probably have done so, but just in case you didn't , did you test for continuity from the outer metal casing of the coil-to-control box(Etrac head) connector for shorting to one of the 4 used pins?
The problem might be quite different if there was any shorting. None the less, it would also be a consideration.
Also
Did you also manage to gently twist and let's say "jostle" the curly cable at both ends of connection, ie: into the coil end and into the control box end connector with the multimeter to see if there where any notable variations?
david di