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Mod a Stanley Intellisensor Stud Finder

Deewayne

New member
I have a Stanley Intellisensor stud finder that I'm modifying into a pinpoint.

I opened it up and found the pickup is not a coil. It's a flat plate (etched circuit board) that has two areas on it. One is a small trace that goes around 3 of the outer edges and the other is a large square area that sits inside the smaller trace, like a square with a U around it. Each trace has only one wire connected to them (there is no connectivity between the two areas.) The small trace has a wire from the main board connected to the center of this trace. Like so ---I.

I made a few coils that didn't work.

Here's two that did.

I measure the area each trace area covered. Then calculated how much .51mm enameled wire it would take to cover the same area.

The coils I made were both open ended (only one wire from each coil back to the main board.)

One was an air core coil and the other on a ferrite rod.

The bottom coil had 93" (add 8" extra for connecting to main board) of wire wrapped on a drinking straw or around a 4-5mm ferrite round rod (5mm x 100mm), this one connects to the red connection.

For the top coil I took 49" of wire, and soldered a 8" piece of wire at it's mid point, like in the rough drawing above (this wire connects back to the board (black.), when you wind this wire do it as if it's one length of wire. In other words when you get to the mid point just keep going.

The bottom coil covers about 1 1/4" of the core and the top coil covers about 3/4" of the core.
Yes - the wire overlaps it's self.

I found both the air and ferrite coils worked about the same. The ferrite coil may work out a little better.

You may have to readjust the sensitivity, do it 1/4 of a turn at a time.

The neater your wraps are, the better it will work.
 
Deewayne,

Care to share photographs of your work? I would like to see. What is the range of this pinpointer?
 
Deewayne this looks promising, I'm looking forward to seeing tihe completed. Will you post drawings , diagrams.
Robert W
 
See above.

I have an idea as to how I'm going to enclose it.

Being on a very tight budget right now it may be some time before I can purchase the external
electronic parts I want to use.
 
Hey Deewayne, Do you have any pictures. And is this the same thing as a stanley stud sensor 100. Thanks
 
No pics yet. With the holidays coming I've been busy with other things.

Not sure if the 100 is the same. If you go to this site it will show you a pic of mine.

http://www.toolbarn.com/stanley-77-110.html
 
I had a page of project updates type in and It disappeared. O well. I'll post the entire project this weekend.
 
Yes it's about the same thing. I would like to see pictures from beginning to end and also the new coil you made. Thank you
 
Things didn't go well this weekend for working on the PP.

The circuit board is not really made for re-working. I've had a lot of traces lift of the board. I had to do a lot
of trace repairs.

Tomorrow I am going out and buy another stud detector.

All of you will learn from my problems.

Some of you wanted picture. I'll take some as I do the re-build.

Here are a few items you can purchase ahead of time if you wish.

1ea. 6" x 3/4" PVC pipe sch. 20.
Everything else is sch. 40.
1ea. 8" x 1 1/2" pipe
1ea. 1 1/2" to 3/4" bell reducer
1ea. 3/4" cap
1ea. 1 1/2" cap
DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING TOGETHER YET.

1ea. soldering iron (15W max - no soldering guns, you'll destroy the board.)
1ea. spool of small dia. solder.
1ea. spool 16ga. wire, solid conductor (red)
1ea. spool 16ga. wire, solid conductor (black)

Stay tuned. I'll post more tomorrow. Oops, I just looked at the clock, So I'll be back today.
 
Another update.

I have the new circuit board built. A lot fewer headaches.

THIS BUILD IS PREFACED WITH THIS NOTE:

IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO SOLDER --- DON'T ATTEMPT THIS.

I have all the photos but I'm have problems getting them download to photobucket.

One last thing I have to do is get the LED's and the piezo buzzer mounted.

I'm not going to go into all the soldering I did. I have already told you how to make
the new coil. The soldering is just removing the led's and extend them, extend the battery connector, remove the antenna then solder the coil in It' place, and extending the piezo buzzer.

Stay tuned.
 
The first post in this thread tells how to make the coil ( it will be pictured later.)

This will be multi part post as I don't know what the max page size can be.

Part 1.

These pictures show the stud finder (SF).

R01.jpg


R02.jpg


R03.jpg


End part 1.
 
Part 2.

This one shows the SF with the back removed. To remove the back there are 3 screws under the battery cover.
Remove these screws then carefully pry the front and back apart by separating the two halves at the bottom of
the battery compartment. Then cut the two wires that connect the antenna (cut close to antenna.) Mark on the
circuit board where the red wire connects (just in case it breaks off.)

R04.jpg


There are 3 black screws that hold the circuit board to the front of the SF. Carefully remove these screws and
remover the circuit board from the front. There are two wires from the circuit board to the piezo buzzer. Cut these
about 1/4" above the circuit board.

R06.jpg


End part 2.
 
Part 3.

In this picture the piezo buzzer is cut out of the front cover. DO NOT try prying the buzzer from it's seat. If you
bend it it will not work again.

R07.jpg


This picture show how the PP will look when the PVC is put together.

R09.jpg


End Part 3.
 
Part 4.

The next two pictures show the slot that has to be cut into the 1 1/2 pipe. This slot is where the circuit board slides into.

R10.jpg


R11.jpg


End part 4
 
Part 5.

These pictures show the circuit board being slid into the pipe. The second pictures show how the
circuit board has to sit when it is fully seated. Note the blue adjusting resistor is flush with the
wall of the pipe.

R12.jpg


R13.jpg


End part 5.
 
Part 6

In these pictures we will be dealing with the Bell Reducer.

In the first picture you can see a hole drilled into the large end of the reducer. This hole has to be slightly bigger than the threads of a 6 -32 machine screw. This hole has to line up with the push button switch on the circuit board. Make sure the board is seated properly before you drill the hole.

R14.jpg


This picture shows the 6-32 nylon machine screw going through the bell reducer. There is a nylon nut
on the inside. The nut is screwed on where it is flush with the end of the screw. A 1" screw will be about the right length. When you get the screw cut to the correct length put a small drop of super glue inside the nut and put them together. Let this dry before you insert the board back into the slot.The screw/nut is now your new push button switch.

R15.jpg


End of part 6.
 
Part 7

At this point you can glue the 3/4" cap to the 3/4"pipe and the 3/4" pipe to the bell reducer.

Now we will start working on the electronics.

From a plastic milk jug cut 6 circles 7/8" in dial. In 4 of these cut holes that match the shape
ferrite rod. Hot glue the two non-hole circles together. Now hot glue two of the center cut circles
together (make two sets.)

Slide one of the center cut spacers 2" up on the rod. Slide the other center cut to 1 5/16 up on the rod. Now glue
the uncut spacer on the end. It should look like this. |~~~~|~~|-----. ( | = spacer, ~~~ = coiled wire, --- =rod .)
Leave 8" of excess wire for connecting to circuit board. Remember only one end of each coil connects to the
circuit board. The wire from the small coil solders to where the red wire from the antenna was. Do not solder these
wires to the circuit board. These will be solder in the last step of the board rework.

I bought a pack of shrink tube from Radio Shack and slid the smallest ones over each of these wires.

Here's a picture

R15b.jpg


These two show the front and back of circuit board.

R16.jpg


R17.jpg


End of part 7
 
Part 8

This shows the wires go off the board for the battery connector, the length from the board to the battery connector is
11 1/2" (red and black wires.) The red and blue wires are the ones from the coil 6" long. Even though the coil wire
are shown solder to the board don't solder them on, wait till you have the LED's installed.

R18.jpg


Take the small paperclips and cut 8ea. 5/8" pieces. Rough them up by sanding them.

Now remove, extend and replace the LED's. Remember the placement of the green LED.

Solder the segments of the paperclip in the holes the LED's were removed from and solder the
wires for the LED's to the paperclip. Keep the flat side of the LED's closest to the large IC.
Mark the LED's. Green, 1 for the one closet to green, 2 for the next and 3 for the last one.
I put hot glue over these wires just to hold them in place.

Extend and replace the piezo buzzer (consider where your going to place it to determine the wire length.)

Now solder the coil to the board.

I put hot glue over all the wires to secure them to the board.

Your PP should look like this.

R21.jpg


End of part 8
 
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