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Just installed the remote PP/Disc button on my Excal-WOW

rbdigger

New member
OK, I am new to the Excal, but even in the short amount of time I have had my Excal II I have learned to love and hate it. Love all its capabilities, but hated the stock headphones and the fact that to go from PP to Discrimination mode you had to keep turning a knob that was not easy to get to. So, with the help of OBN I did the headphone mod and the remote PP button mod. Wow. Let me tell you. My Excal is now one mean hunting machine. The remote PP button makes hunting so much more efficient.

I have an Anderson CF shaft on my Excal and the button I chose to use fit perfectly in the top of the handle. The button is waterproof and how I did the mod should be completely waterproof all the way around.

I set the button in the handle by embedding it in gel coat resin which is 100% waterproof and should protect the backside of the button from water shorting.

Where the wire goes through the endcap, I just drilled the smallest hole possible for the wire to go through and sealed the inside of the cap with gel coat resin. On the outside I replaced the factory heat shrink cover with new heat shrink and left a "cup" of extra material which I filled with Marine GOOP. I do not believe there is any way water is going to get through my wire pass through area.

Took it for a test run at the beach this morning for a 2 hour hunt and it worked flawlessly. I found more good targets then I ever did before due to increased efficiency in hunting with the remote PP button.

Thanks again to OBN for all the help and the videos for both the headphones and the remote PP button. Could not have done it without his help.
 
Great job!

I've got a remote PP switch wired to my GT. Works great. It unplugs from the back of the box via a stereo jack so I can quickly throw the control box on my water rig. I ran the stereo cable I used through the inside of the shaft and up through the hollow bike end bar to make the install as clean and professional looking as possible. The stereo plug exits the shaft right in front of the back of the control box on the shaft so it can plug right into it.

I did have to clip down the Radio Shack switch's solder terminals a bit so they'd clear the bike end bar to slide inside it, and once in there I protected them form an accidental short by way of some liquid electrical tape painted on to of the switch terminals. Had to cut a slit down the bike end bar so the switch could slide into the position I wanted it, since there wasn't enough room to turn the switch inside the end bar to fit down in a drilled hole for it.

It would have been almost impossible to route the cord from inside the shaft right up inside the grip in place, so to get around that I drilled a hole at the base of the end bar grip and the shaft right in front of it for the cord to exit the shaft and then go up inside the grip. In this base of the grip location, no worries of wear and tear from my hand causing a short in the cable as it clears my hand below it when grasping the grip. When drilling the shaft hole here right at the front base of the grip, had to make darn sure the grip was where I wanted it, so I hunted with my custom light weight land rig build for a while to make sure everything was where I wanted it.

After that I sealed that slit to slide the switch down inside the grip, the end cap on the grip, and all entry/exit holes of the stereo cable on the shaft and base of the grip with Shoe Goo to insure no moisture or dirt could find a way in.

I plan to wire up a waterproof remote PP switch for my water shaft too (stock shaft), that once the GT is inside the waterproof Plano box I plan to mount on a snap on back shaft extension on my water rig, the remote PP plug inside the Plano box can be plugged right into the GT.

When I was going about wanting to wire up a remote PP switch to my GT, I did a bunch of web searching to see if anybody had come up with one. Only thing I could find was remote PPs for older Sovereigns which had a different switch configuration. If memory serves those units used a disc/all metal switch that was open when in DISC and closed when in all metal, so rather than have to do anything else, all you had to do was wire another switch in parallel to that one to close the two switch leads (if memory serves here again...been a while).

Then just set the stock switch to the open (disc) position. Maybe I have it reversed, and it was open in All Metal PP and closed in disc, but the realities/logistics were the same, and you'd then set the stock switch to whichever mode was the open position. In other words, no conflict if the stock switch was set one way and the other another that could possibly hurt the Sovereign by way of flipping the remote PP switch in relation to where the stock switch was set.

With the GT, as you can see from the below pictorial schematic I made, the stock switch grounds one way for Iron Mask Off Disc mode, has no connections made for Disc Iron Mask On Mode, and grounds the other way for turning control over to whichever function the All Metal switch on the face plate is set to. For that reason, I was worried that if I simply wired a simple "on/off switch" to the all metal lead, while the stock switch was set for Disc Iron Mask OFF mode, something funky might happen with both traces being completed circuit wise inside the GT at the same time, and do something bad to the machine. So, I decided the safest route was to bypass the stock switch completely and take it out of the picture to prevent any bad possibilities.

I could have just put a simple on/off connection right on the All Metal leg trace of the switch, but that would limit you to having to have the GT in Disc Iron Mask On mode all the time versus being able to flip to the Iron Mask OFF mode as well. The beauty of this setup too is that the stock switches all still work even when the remote PP switch is plugged in, and will only bypass the disc switch when the remote is thrown forward (in the way I have it mounted hanging down from my grip like a Whites trigger), and also that you can set the stock All Metal modes switch to whichever you desire to flip back and fourth between that and whatever disc mode (iron mask on or off) you have the other stock switch set to. This way the remote PP switch isn't just limited between flipping between say disc iron mask ON and PP, but rather can flip between say Disc Iron Mask OFF and one of the other two All Metal modes (Track Or Fixed) as well.

This pictorial schematic lists all the part #'s I used from Radio Shack, and also even described the proper wire colors inside the stereo cable part # they sell so no need to use a multimeter to figure out which wires are which on the stereo plug it has on it. If you wire the plug to the switch according to the colors, and also the stereo plug numbered pin outs on that to the proper places on the GT's stock disc mode switch, should be no problems with it working exactly as intended. But as with all things in life, use this information, right or wrong, at your own risk...
[attachment 258550 REMOTEBLANK.JPG]

And here's a thread that explains this mod further...
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1303737,page=1

PS- OBN or anybody else, is that Radio Shack stereo cord good enough for water use? Don't want to use any kind of cord that might permit water soaking into it. I doubt it could but figured better to ask the experts on water hunting mods.
 
Nice job much easier set up to use :thumbup: Jim
 
Ran out of time to edit my post. There are actually two other ways to rig a remote PP to the stock switch, but they both have problems with either not being able to retain the Disc Iron Mask ON or OFF modes to flip back and fourth to, or the other method would risk the stock switching being in Iron Mask OFF mode while you forced it to All Metal PP mode, with both being a complete circuit inside the GT at the same time. Who knows what that might do, but I don't want to risk finding out. Thus why I set it up the way I did.

And if I didn't make it clear, with the remote PP plugged into the stereo jack or not, the stock switches still retain full stock functions for use. It's just that if the remote PP switch is pulled backwards towards my hand (in the way I mounted it) it would bypass the stock disc switch completely and turn control over to the All Metal switch's setting, whichever you have that set to on the GT.

I wanted the remote PP mounted so when pulled towards my hand it would go into one of the All Metal modes, so when thrown forward and away from my hand I'd be less apt to bump it during most of my hunting time in disc.

The PP function on the GT has some serious potential abilities. Not only to see deeper than the legendary ability of BBS disc, but also to punch through harsh minerals that even BBS can have issues with. Many PP users say full volume/full sensitivity will give PP mode the depth of top of the line PI units in the worst of grounds. Even with sensitivity set at what is stable for disc, and even with volume at it's lowest, at one particular badly mineralized beach I found PP mode was easily seeing coins at 4 or 5" that disc was either choking or completely nulling out on due to the microscopic iron, black sand, and other minerals in the sand. Blew my mind, and made that dead beach wake up like I couldn't believe with targets. In no time I had a pouch full of coins, where as double the amount of time than that hunting in disc that day before hand I had little to show for my efforts.

Many say in PP mode sensitivity can run at full blast with no stability issues even in bad ground. I have played with that and it appears true, and also it does appear full volume on my GT gives more depth than lowest for PP (but has no effect on disc when I've compared lowest/highest volume). I've long heard many say full volume on the Sovereign increases the depth of disc, so I would suspect that's true on prior models, as I do see on the Excalibur when I've toyed with it that full volume does give disc more depth. Just not that I can see when precisely measured in disc mode on my GT.

I have big plans for PP mode this year. Not just using it on beaches when targets are scarce to punch deeper or to see even shallower stuff disc can't, but also for use on land at some sites that are low in non-ferrous trash but have the potential for some deep old coins out of the reach of non-PI units. Even if there is a bunch of iron present, I can already often tell what iron is by way of how it reacts in PP. It'll either be fuzzy at the edges, have a wider approach and leaving response to the target, or will only sound off one way (approach or leaving it, either one). I'm hearing there are about 10 other words in PP to judge targets by, so I look forward to learning that. My game plan on land when I use it is to only go after targets that I suspect aren't iron by their response, and also that sound soft enough to be out of the range of typical detectors but not this "PI-like" mode on the GT using PP.

One handy thing about having a remote PP is that on the beach you can flip back to disc and see if it sounds off or is nulling like iron. Based on it's depth if it sounds within range of disc *for that beach* and you get no response, then chances are it's iron. On the other hand, you can scoop out the sand and once PP says it's on the beach dumped out now, flip over to disc and if it nulls then it's iron. Some guys will then just re-fill the hole without recovering it, leaving it for the PI guys. :ninja: I don't like to do that if I can help it, because way I see it one last piece of iron in the sand means one less chance at it masking something or me digging it up next time.

But for land using this reverse disc thing- If I flip to disc and it sounds off and is trashy, then it's not out of reach of other machines so I might pass on it. By concentrating on only the deepest of whispers that don't sound like iron, and also conversely won't sound off when flipping to disc due to being out of range, then I am targeting only stuff beyond "where no man has gone before" so to speak.

I'm going to continue to play with this PP thing to compare to the Deeptech units. Both are very similar in abilities in many ways in terms of ultra depth, so if I can see extreme depths on coins somewhat matching what I'm seeing video wise with the Vista units, then I won't feel the need to add one to my arsenal, since PP mode is pretty much giving me the same abilities (IE: ability to tell iron and ability to go very deep). Those units are limited in discrimination to right around just above iron, so with PP's ability to signal iron, if the depth is similar then I won't see a need to get one for these particular specific land hunting situations- Low non-ferrous trash but may have high amounts of iron, with the potential of some very deep coins at such a site.

By far though those units have some very good fine gold sensitivity for thin chains and such, but that's not of primary importance to me. I mainly go after old coins, or when beach hunting I'm after gold rings, since they are IMO far more numerous in the form of what is to be found gold wise. The GT will bang at super depths on low conductors just like it will on silver coins, so long as they are an intact loop. I'm working on another video right now to show this, like the one I did with a woman's wedding band.
 
Very Nice Job. RB. I'm impressed with the handle, like the fit of Bulgin Button, That one is the best I have found. Now she is a real hunting machine.....Hey, I like that shrink tubing also....good job..!!
 
OldBeechnut said:
Very Nice Job. RB. I'm impressed with the handle, like the fit of Bulgin Button, That one is the best I have found. Now she is a real hunting machine.....Hey, I like that shrink tubing also....good job..!!

Thanks OBN. Could not have done it without you. It paid off already this evening. Two rings. One silver with diamonds and one gold with diamonds. So much more efficient to hunt you can really pick through all the "bad" targets so much faster and thus you get on to more of the good ones before time runs out.

I am glad you like the shrink tubing. Finishes it off well I think and allow for a really good waterproofing of the wire penetration area on the end cap.
 
I will send them my machine, have them do it and I will be glad to pay the price they ask. I know if I was to try to do it myself, I would mess something up. Nice job and good hunting. John
 
Congrats on a very nice looking mod. That all metal switch right there ready for the thumb sure is the way to go.
tvr
 
Great job rb on the mods. Can you give us the info on the button?
 
Good looking job on the mod and I know you will like it.
 
That looks sweeeet RB, its how the excal should have been made :)
gonna do this mod myself (with the help of the OBN videos of course ) once I find a UK supplier of a suitable waterproof switch :ukflag:
Great job :clapping:
 
I have a question, with that PP mod .... would ML be willing to do any needed repairs, like say a new coil? I know they like to pressure test it before they release it. Excellent job by the way. Sounds like you are really getting the hang of it with those finds.

Dew
 
dewcon4414 said:
I have a question, with that PP mod .... would ML be willing to do any needed repairs, like say a new coil? I know they like to pressure test it before they release it. Excellent job by the way. Sounds like you are really getting the hang of it with those finds.

Dew

Dew, I would do a new coil myself, so I was not worried about what ML would do. Now, if the circuit board fails that is another story. However, I do have a good friend who does PCB work and he might be able to fix it. I would sure go to him first before ML knowing the history of customer service.

Here's to hoping nothing needs fixing for a long time. I will do my best to take care of my now precious Excal. Nothing like doing all the mods and finding some gold to make the machine really yours.

Ron
 
:thumbup: Thanks for the info on the switch you used , ive managed to find a supplier in the UK :ukflag:
Just got to find courage to do the mod now :surprised:
:beers:
 
Thanks for the info rb. I don't normally hunt in PP. I do realize that PP is deeper, at least it seems that way with mine. So just to clarify, you run with the switch set in PP and pushing the button puts it in disc? Or is it the other way around? I just finished up modding up one and wasn't sure I really needed the PP mod. Now I wish I did it. I can always pull it back apart after I get all the components together. Hopefully gonna get to hunt with Obn this season to get some on the beach tips on hunting in PP. Thanks again, Joe.
 
surfman said:
Thanks for the info rb. I don't normally hunt in PP. I do realize that PP is deeper, at least it seems that way with mine. So just to clarify, you run with the switch set in PP and pushing the button puts it in disc? Or is it the other way around? I just finished up modding up one and wasn't sure I really needed the PP mod. Now I wish I did it. I can always pull it back apart after I get all the components together. Hopefully gonna get to hunt with Obn this season to get some on the beach tips on hunting in PP. Thanks again, Joe.

Joe, you set the Excal switch to PP and pushing the remote button puts it immediately into Disc. If you want to hunt in Disc, just turn the Excal knob to Disc. In the Disc mode the remote switch you installed does nothing. That is what I like about the remote PP switch install is that it does nothing to the original capabilities of the machine.

Good luck. Ron
 
Thanks for the push button info - your rig looks sweet. Thanks for posting as well.
 
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