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I Got A Free 1266X With The White Coil HELP!:wave:
- Thread starter MarkCZ
- Start date
Keith Southern
Active member
inside the control housing ...it had better component's ( Larger) and ran a little more quite and had better depth.. the board was left over from the 1265 they tweaked them up a little reversed the push pull power from the 1265 and gave it the spoked coil...it was a transitional time when fisher was changing over to more modern type circuit's and the newer circuits were smaller but at a little cost to performance...So the white coil was short lived... Even the first Cz's had the white coil before going black... Guess they liked the white since it was the color of there solid coils for year's...Some people like white coils now because it helps them see there sweep patterns better ...
But yes the white coil ones are looked for by the 1266 aficionado For a little extra performance..( But probably not noticed by most)
Good luck with it
Keith
But yes the white coil ones are looked for by the 1266 aficionado For a little extra performance..( But probably not noticed by most)
Good luck with it
Keith
MarkCZ
Well-known member
Keith, thanks for the information that confirms what my brother had found out.
I believe my co-worker (a friend) bought a Coinstrike off from you a few weeks back, small world. Well he got his a week or so after I got mine (C$) his worked fine, mine wasn't doing so well, but we met up and I tried his coil on mine and BINGO! perfect. Then there was a forum member here that had a 8" Coinstrike coil for sell and $41.00 later and all is well.
Mark
Keith said:
I believe my co-worker (a friend) bought a Coinstrike off from you a few weeks back, small world. Well he got his a week or so after I got mine (C$) his worked fine, mine wasn't doing so well, but we met up and I tried his coil on mine and BINGO! perfect. Then there was a forum member here that had a 8" Coinstrike coil for sell and $41.00 later and all is well.
Mark
TheOtherLeggoHead
Member
My 1266 has a white coil. I love that machine.
MarkCZ
Well-known member
Well, I took the two screws out of the rear of the housing (next to the coil cable connector),
Pulled the electronics out the front, (one unit, two stacked boards, front panel, rear mount/cable connector)
Wires for the charger jack, toggle, and battery leads were short, but long enough to just let the electronics outside the housing.
What I found to be the problem,
The headphone jack was fine, its panel mounted in the twin board models.
The excess movement in the front panel was due to how the panel mounts to the circuit boards.
The front panel has two flat metal arms (legs) that are bent at a 90 degree bend. These two arms mount on each end of the panel and near the middle height wise and mount to the circuits boards. So, when you unplug the headphones the two arms FLEX and allow the front panel to teeter totter. So, I decided to do the unthinkable!
I put it back together, cleaned the lower inside corners of the housing, place a small bead of super glue jell in them (an inch up the sides and out across the bottom an inch) and held inward pressure on the front panel for about twenty minutes! then let it set overnight. It seems to be pretty solid now.
I have used it enough now that I'm pretty sure its running okay. So,
I'm not going to send it back,
I'm going to use it as it is until it dies (if it ever does).
My neighbor gave it to me, so I'm not going to try and sell it or get rid of it as long as it works!
Thank You All For Your Feedback!
Mark
Pulled the electronics out the front, (one unit, two stacked boards, front panel, rear mount/cable connector)
Wires for the charger jack, toggle, and battery leads were short, but long enough to just let the electronics outside the housing.
What I found to be the problem,
The headphone jack was fine, its panel mounted in the twin board models.
The excess movement in the front panel was due to how the panel mounts to the circuit boards.
The front panel has two flat metal arms (legs) that are bent at a 90 degree bend. These two arms mount on each end of the panel and near the middle height wise and mount to the circuits boards. So, when you unplug the headphones the two arms FLEX and allow the front panel to teeter totter. So, I decided to do the unthinkable!
I put it back together, cleaned the lower inside corners of the housing, place a small bead of super glue jell in them (an inch up the sides and out across the bottom an inch) and held inward pressure on the front panel for about twenty minutes! then let it set overnight. It seems to be pretty solid now.
I have used it enough now that I'm pretty sure its running okay. So,
I'm not going to send it back,
I'm going to use it as it is until it dies (if it ever does).
My neighbor gave it to me, so I'm not going to try and sell it or get rid of it as long as it works!
Thank You All For Your Feedback!
Mark
MarkCZ
Well-known member
Well I don't know about it being a good fix. This model needed a snap in trim ring to help secure (stabilize) the front panel, or a rear panel mounting system like four corner mount screws. So it not having anything broken, just an aged design problem, It seemed like a simple way to stabilze the front panel. For now the detector seems more solid then it was.
Mark
Mark