mrwilburino
Member
Steve O said:
I'm a nurse......but maybe I just think like a carpenter.
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HOW TO DIG TARGETS-AND NOT GET BANNED
- Thread starter GunnarMN
- Start date
I'm a nurse......but maybe I just think like a carpenter.
Great video!
My take on plugs right or wrong.
Like some of the others, the soil here is typically not damp like in the video but dry and usually VERY compacted.
In parks, i always dig a semi-circle plug to keep some of the roots intact. I'll admit there are times when a deep silver oldy is suspected which demands a full blown 360 deg. plug.
One issue i see with others plugs is that they try to stamp ALL of the soil back in the hole. Ends up looking like a dried up mole hill, an eyesore that can be spotted at a distance. With dry compacted soil, there's always some soil left over after replacing the plug. Simple, grind any clumps down with the hands and just toss that excess into the wind. I guarantee it will not be noticeable with out a magnifying glass...it will morph with the lawn and will 100% disappear with the next rain.
I also try to keep my plugs just a little below grade so the rain will puddle over it thereby increasing the odds of a quicker recovery. That also makes it a little less noticeable.
Another issue i see with bad plugs is the perimeter around the edge of the plug is not filled in but instead has a void or valley so to speak exposing some of the root system. This will guarantee the plug will dry up and take a long time to recover. I always keep a handfull or take any left over soil and tap it into those perimeter valleys then lightly tamp the whole thing down. Really makes the plug invisible with dry soil too.
One more thing when digging plugs in parks. I will typically dig a deeper and larger plug than needed. Why?
Park lawn mowers are usually very powerful and can create one hell of a vacuum....they will easily pull out a shallow plug especially with dry soil.
A deeper plug will also keep most of the root system intact.
Yep, i've seen some really ugly plugs out there. Its no wonder metal detecting is still allowed in most parks.
My take on plugs right or wrong.
Like some of the others, the soil here is typically not damp like in the video but dry and usually VERY compacted.
In parks, i always dig a semi-circle plug to keep some of the roots intact. I'll admit there are times when a deep silver oldy is suspected which demands a full blown 360 deg. plug.
One issue i see with others plugs is that they try to stamp ALL of the soil back in the hole. Ends up looking like a dried up mole hill, an eyesore that can be spotted at a distance. With dry compacted soil, there's always some soil left over after replacing the plug. Simple, grind any clumps down with the hands and just toss that excess into the wind. I guarantee it will not be noticeable with out a magnifying glass...it will morph with the lawn and will 100% disappear with the next rain.
I also try to keep my plugs just a little below grade so the rain will puddle over it thereby increasing the odds of a quicker recovery. That also makes it a little less noticeable.
Another issue i see with bad plugs is the perimeter around the edge of the plug is not filled in but instead has a void or valley so to speak exposing some of the root system. This will guarantee the plug will dry up and take a long time to recover. I always keep a handfull or take any left over soil and tap it into those perimeter valleys then lightly tamp the whole thing down. Really makes the plug invisible with dry soil too.
One more thing when digging plugs in parks. I will typically dig a deeper and larger plug than needed. Why?
Park lawn mowers are usually very powerful and can create one hell of a vacuum....they will easily pull out a shallow plug especially with dry soil.
A deeper plug will also keep most of the root system intact.
Yep, i've seen some really ugly plugs out there. Its no wonder metal detecting is still allowed in most parks.
Quick Hijack Question:
How do you cut/fill plugs in dry, drought prone areas?
I've used the "slice/probe/pat-down" method in the past, being it was recommended by a groundskeeper that worked for a golf course.
But it gets ugly when looking for deeper targets.
Sorry for the hijack.
How do you cut/fill plugs in dry, drought prone areas?
I've used the "slice/probe/pat-down" method in the past, being it was recommended by a groundskeeper that worked for a golf course.
But it gets ugly when looking for deeper targets.
Sorry for the hijack.
sprchng
Well-known member
shadowulf said:
Hardly a hijack! but a good point. The whole world is not lush kentucky bluegrass. We get less than 10" a year and a lush lawn/park is a subsidized feature. The assumption in the OP is that if it's not beautiful when you start to dig it doesn't need to be when you leave,,,which is to a point true. Unfortunately from now until about Spring the grasses just get drier and crustier and any plug pretty much just falls apart and there's not alot you can do about it. I try to limit my digging in those areas or employ as much camouflage as possible. Fill the hole and blend the surface in and if anyone asks---- tell them someone else dug it
Please do NOT add fresh grass or any other fresh organic material to the plug. Composted organic material is great but never "fresh" material. I've been a licensed landscaping contractor for 20 years, adding any fresh organic material to a plant causes an issue called "nitrogen draft". Look it up in any landscaping resource. Here is a good description of nitrogen draft.
The carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is very important to microbial activity within a garden soil. All soils have microorganisms that decompose organic materials. Microorganisms use the carbon from organic waste as a source for energy, and the microorganisms require nitrogen and other nutrients for reproduction.
Normal microbial activity requires a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of about 30:1. When the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is below 30:1, the microorganisms stop decomposing organic matter. When the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is higher than 30:1, decomposition increases.
When you add fresh organic materials to your garden soil, you increase the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, creating a condition called nitrogen draft. When nitrogen draft occurs, microorganisms consume all the available nitrogen and other nutrients. The microorganisms literally out-compete the plants for available nitrogen, causing plants to turn yellow or purplish and their growth to be stunted.
The carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is very important to microbial activity within a garden soil. All soils have microorganisms that decompose organic materials. Microorganisms use the carbon from organic waste as a source for energy, and the microorganisms require nitrogen and other nutrients for reproduction.
Normal microbial activity requires a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of about 30:1. When the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is below 30:1, the microorganisms stop decomposing organic matter. When the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is higher than 30:1, decomposition increases.
When you add fresh organic materials to your garden soil, you increase the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, creating a condition called nitrogen draft. When nitrogen draft occurs, microorganisms consume all the available nitrogen and other nutrients. The microorganisms literally out-compete the plants for available nitrogen, causing plants to turn yellow or purplish and their growth to be stunted.
Phillip_in_NM
Member
Whenever I detect in areas of manicured lawns (relatively rare here in the desert Southwest), I bring a little baggie of the houseplant fertilizer sticks broken into pieces about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long. Then after I've dug my plug, I drop in the little bit of fertilizer stick before replacing the plug. I even had a groundskeeper at one place ask me if I was fertilizing the plugs because of what he had seen in the areas I had worked. He loved it and told me I was welcome back anytime!
Phillip_in_NM said:
I'm in a similar place (Reno NV) and the groundsmen are pretty protective of their grassy areas. The groundskeeper I spoke of had seen me poking around the edges of the course fence when we met. I asked him about plugging and he just made it clear to try and avoid it if possible. One too many days of "too hot" or "too cold" puts them under the gun. Which is why he like the "cut&stitch" method. Less disturbance to the grass.
Being I have to renew my detecting permit, which is near the city's groundskeepers building. I'll see if I can get some info from them.
Placing plant fertilizer in the plug hole may be good for the grass in that spot, but a week or two later you will have spots of grass that is a slightly different color and growing at a faster rate than the rest of the lawn. I'm sure the landscaper that cares for the property will not be happy. Remember, the object is to "leave no trace". Except for obtaining permission, the property owner and visitors should never see or know we were ever there.
Shhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Not so loud. They don't charge for it, yet.
Ya, makes a whole lotta sense, don't it!
Basicly its a way to regulate and inform on the do's and don'ts.
Stay away from the sports complexes and manicured city property.
And the permit gives the LEO a quick way to know if you know the rules. They ask for your permit, you show them it, usually ends with a "have a nice day & good luck". Unless you are not following the rules.
Btw, you can not engage with "sex workers" legally in Washoe (I.e. Reno) or Clark (I.e. Las Vegas) counties. Only counties with less than 400,000 people is it possible to establish a brothel.
Ya, makes a whole lotta sense, don't it!
Basicly its a way to regulate and inform on the do's and don'ts.
Stay away from the sports complexes and manicured city property.
And the permit gives the LEO a quick way to know if you know the rules. They ask for your permit, you show them it, usually ends with a "have a nice day & good luck". Unless you are not following the rules.
Btw, you can not engage with "sex workers" legally in Washoe (I.e. Reno) or Clark (I.e. Las Vegas) counties. Only counties with less than 400,000 people is it possible to establish a brothel.
Phillip_in_NM
Member
Oldguy said:
Its obvious that you're not here in the desert Southwest! ANY green is a good thing. The groundskeeper I dealt with was delighted. Of course he might have been impressed that anyone actually cared enough to go to the trouble and expense of doing things right.
Might not work as well for you folks that have green everywhere!
You guys down south have it too good. You start your grass from a plug to begin with, and it usually takes off like a wild fire. You are right though, a little fertilizer in the plug of southern species turf grass would probably be beneficial. Here up north our grass isn't as durable and is subject to subtle changes in color and growth rate.
Old Guy:
How would a shallow zig-zag cut do for digging?
Kinda like 2 tiny plug cuts. The flap would be smaller, and one could prolly get a few inches deeper.
Hmm, I might try that in my backyard. The dog just about have it trashed already. And I can see for myself how well the grass recovers.
How would a shallow zig-zag cut do for digging?
Kinda like 2 tiny plug cuts. The flap would be smaller, and one could prolly get a few inches deeper.
Hmm, I might try that in my backyard. The dog just about have it trashed already. And I can see for myself how well the grass recovers.
Shadowulf:
Never cut a shallow plug. The majority of root structure of (northern species) turf grass is about 3" deep. If you cut your plug at least 4" deep you preserve that root structure. It's just like transplanting, you don't want to damage the roots. It's OK to gently spread the plug apart after it's out to recover a shallow target inside of the plug, just be careful not to damage the roots.
Never cut a shallow plug. The majority of root structure of (northern species) turf grass is about 3" deep. If you cut your plug at least 4" deep you preserve that root structure. It's just like transplanting, you don't want to damage the roots. It's OK to gently spread the plug apart after it's out to recover a shallow target inside of the plug, just be careful not to damage the roots.
I understand that. But a "slash" through the roots seems to stitch together better than a full semi-circular "plug" cut. Especially if I make the full depth cut only big enough for the target to be removed. Almost more like a surgical incision.
As I said, my backyard is trashed. And I plan on reseeding/ rolling-turf on it when I landscape. The remaining grass is very similar to what is in our city parks. I figure it is a good test bed for me to practice with until I re-landscape.
As I said, my backyard is trashed. And I plan on reseeding/ rolling-turf on it when I landscape. The remaining grass is very similar to what is in our city parks. I figure it is a good test bed for me to practice with until I re-landscape.
Give it a try on your own property and see if it works. Remember, most turf grass is very resilient, it can take a lot of abuse and still come back and look good. Just my opinion, but when I am on someone else's property I take the extra care to make sure everything is done right, just like when I am on a paid job.
I agree. I just wanted to get the opinion of someone in-the-know.
The issue we have around here is there is usually so thin an area of roots that too large a cut makes a horrible flap of turf.
I would think about trying this on a public park without several tries on my own lawn. Besides, I have a new crop of dandilions coming in this year. And "lawn surgury" seems to be the only sure way to remove them once they sprout.
The issue we have around here is there is usually so thin an area of roots that too large a cut makes a horrible flap of turf.
I would think about trying this on a public park without several tries on my own lawn. Besides, I have a new crop of dandilions coming in this year. And "lawn surgury" seems to be the only sure way to remove them once they sprout.
JamesBondaka
Active member
wvrick
Active member
Glad to see post like this one! I was just watching Youtube videos and seen so many people digging in playgrounds and public parks with long handled tools (shovels). A sure way to get ban from public property! I spend some of my own detecting time fixing other peoples hole when I come across them, even some golf divots so they don't get mistaken for people hunting. I just wish everyone used a little common sense.
I had a talk with one of the senior park managers in my area about plugging. For our area, he recommends to keep it as small as possible ajust press the plug in when done. No fertilizers or special treatment. This area has too many variables to contend with. But j did not get the third degree or a scowling look. He was friendly and even said good luck.