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How do I start this hobby?

meatman

New member
I have always been interested in getting a metal detector, but have never done it. I decided that I am going to buy one and start looking for stuff. What kind of detector is recommended? I have looked around and there are a lot of choices. What options should I look for? What is the best value out there? I see they can get fairly expensive. I would like to get one of $400 or so. Is that a reasonable price for a decent detector? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
I strongly suggest a high a quality set metal detector deticated headphones.

The kind of metal detector depends on what you want to hunt and the conditions you will be hunting under.

I think you should start cheep. Learn what your needs are and then you can make a better decision.

Two excellent choices are Garrett's Ace 250 and Tesoro Silver Umax.

The Ace has a digital display. It is one of the best choices for a starter metal detector. It has one of the best displays. Works better than MD's costing much more.

The Silver doesn't have a display but is a high performance metal detector that can match the performance of machines costing five times as much. It goes very deep for the price. Tesoro's also have a life time warranty.

Both these metal detectors are under $225 new.

HH,
 
Thanks for the feedback. I live about an hour from the coast so I will probably be searching some beaches, but I also want to check out some parks, state parks, campsites, playgrounds, old houses etc. I would like to search for coins, jewelry, and whatever else I can find.
 
First make sure you know the do's and dont's of the hobby.

1) Always check federal, state, county and local laws before searching. It is your responsibility to "know the law."

2) Abide by all laws, ordinances or regulations that may govern your search or the area you will be in.

3) Never trespass. Always obtain permission prior to entering private property, mineral claims, or underwater salvage leases.

4) Do not damage, deface, destroy or vandalize any property (including: ghost towns and deserted structures), and never tamper with any equipment at the site.

5) Never litter. Always pack out what you take in and remove all trash dug in your search

6) Fill all holes, reguardless how remote the location, and never dig in a way that will damage, be damaging to, or kill any vegetation.

7) Do not build fires, camp or park in non-designated or restricted areas.

:geek: Leave all gates and other accesses to land as found.

9) Never contaminate wells, creeks, or any other water supplies.

10) Be courteous, considerate, and thoughtful at all times

11) Report the discovery of any items of historic significance to the local historical society or proper authorities.

12) Uphold all finders, search and salvage agreements.

13) Promote responsible historical research and artifact recovery and the sharing of knowledge with others.



National Forest and Federal Lands -- Metal Detecting is NOT ALLOWED! Only by special permit only, acquired from the federal government. Each area has a district office.

Corp of Engineer Lakes, Shoreline, and Lands -- Permission has ben granted only on pre-disturbed sites, such as beaches and attached swimming areas. New Corp lakes and lands must be Ok'ed by main office of the Army Corp of Engineers. Each area has a district office.

State Parks and Lands -- Some state parks are open to metal detecting, yet some are not! We suggest that you check with the park ranger before attempting to use your detector.

Bureau of Land Management Lands (BLM) -- Some areas of their lands are open for use of metal detecting, and some are not. We suggest that you contact their district office to check.

City or County Park Lands -- Most all are open to metal detecting unless notice is given by a sign or city ordinance. This can be checked by contacting the Parks and Recreation Department in the city you wish to use your detector.

Public School Grounds -- Most all are open to metal detecting unless notice is given by a sign, city ordinance, law enforcement or school employee. You can check with the school office first.

Private Schools, Colleges, and Academies -- Must acquire permission! You can check with their office first. Should be viewed the same as Private Property.

Privately Owned Lands (Private Property) -- Must acquire permission! Permission is best gotten from the landowner. Also it is best to have that permission in writing.

Historically Marked Lands or Sites -- Metal detecting is NOT allowed! This site has already met what is necessary to become of historically significant and is marked so to preserve its history. Must acquire permission from owner, in special cases.



Remember, permission is always the best way. Learn proper digging tec hniques and clean the area of debris, so those that follow may also get permission and won't find the same area closed to metal detecting. Be a good treasure hunter andhelp those that need your expertise.
 
Meatman,for around 400.00 the perfect detector for you would be a used CZ5.I saw a lot of posts that swear that this unit is one of the best metal detectors ever made.For beach hunting the Ace or the Silver isn't in the same league.I have used this unit and it is a great metal detector for park hunting.If your patient and buy one of these units used and if it doesn't work out you could resale and get your money back.
 
Hi MM & Welcome :cheers: I got into MDing in August of '07, so I'm new myself. I read-around on the forums & it seemed that the Ace 250 was getting the most "buzz" in cost vs performance (and even out-performing some more expensive MD's). So That's what I got, and haven't regreted it for one second. I've been extremely pleased with it, and have made some nice finds since using it.

As far as advice, by all means read the "Do's & Dont's" posted above. Like any other hobby/sport, you'll seldom hear about the good that's done by MD'ers, but you'll hear the "bad" used in an effort to deny access to sites. Filling holes is a biggie!

Here's a few of my suggestions:

Start in your own yard, and learn to dig without leaving large damaged areas.

Use a drop cloth of somesort (I use a piece of heavy plastic) to place loose dirt from the hole on, it'll help in leaving the spot less noticeable because you can pout all the "crumbs" back into the hole.

If you get an Ace 250, or something in the same price-range, spend the left-over cash & get a handheld pinpointer.

Try a number of tools & see what you're most comfortable in using, and which does the least damage to the sod.

Check with Kellyco as they have some "deals" where they toss-in some "freebies", granted they aren't worth what they claim retail price is.....but it'll give you some good items to "start-out" with.

Read some of the old posts, they're full of information. Again, pay special attention to digging/recovery of items.

Last but not least.....have fun & good luck! :thumbup:

Smitty

Smitty
 
The Fisher CZ5 list for over $1,400.00.

I'm sure that for that much money it must have some strong points.

I would be suspicious of a metal detector that list for $1,400 and you can buy for $400.

On the other hand all Tesoros and the model Ace 250 by Garrett have good resale value.

Resale value is a true owner's statement about the true worth of detectors.

Good luck. Remember, there's so much hype and so many choices, you are not likely to make the best choice the first time you purchase a metal detector.

A good low cost MD is the wise choice for the beginner.

Wet beach units cost more money. Some don't work well for dry land hunting. Most people have one for beach and one for parks, Etc.

Best Wishes,
 
Thanks for all the tips. I read the do's and don'ts on another website earlier and had them in mind. I am the last person who wants to go where I'm not allowed and I don't want to cause any kind of problem to anyone. I am wondering though about the types of responses you get when you seek permission to hunt somewhere (like calling the school office for example). I doubt they get those kind of calls often. What has been your experience with that? It seems like trying to track down permission or determine a city or county ordinance could take hours on the phone trying to reach a person who could answer your question. Any time I deal with bureaucracy it is always take a lot of time.

Tabdog, What would you consider a high quality set of headphones? Thanks.
 
The top of the line CZ when the CZ5 was being produced the CZ20 with a 8 inch coil suggested price $1219.95. CZs are great used units and one may find a CZ5 around $400.00 or more at this point.The Ace is a good unit for a seasoned hunter or beginner,and I have owned and used a 250 Ace its a good unit.The older analog CZ5 is a step up performance wise.The CZ will ground balance and has a salt mode.Further more what are the two best performance water beach units?Answer the CZ20 and Excalibur.Just like the Sovereign shares traits of the Excal the same for the CZs are similar to the CZ20 but not water proof.
 
You got a good start - your here so you must be reading up.
If you have a club, that's always good as the one I belong to has a variety of machines, and different types of hunters.
Some local dealer's will work with customers well.
 
I think the most reasonable are the basic Killer B's. The basic set has only one volume control. If you can live with that then they have the same quality as the more expensive ones with equal performance but less features.

The Basic Killer B's can be purchased for $72 on the internet. Some sellers offer free shipping.

Sun ray Pro Gold are supposed to work well with Whites metal detectors. They have a little deeper sound. Some say not as clear. They have dual volume, a limiter control and leather ear cups.

The Sun Ray Pro Gold at $115. That's a lot for the money.

Those are two of what I concider good deals.

The more expensive ones offer some advantages that the individual can decide on.

I've not used the really expensive ones.

But using quality headphones are a must. It makes a big difference.

Some headphones like the Sun Ray Pro Gold are better on beaches because they block out sound better. But I think Killer B's sound clearer.

Maybe some one with more experience can help. There are more good headphones I don't know about.

HH,
 
Ace 250 is 212.00 Pinpointer is 100.00 Lesche digger/knife is 50.00 Headphones 32 ohm is 25.00 Free nail pouch at the lumber yard. Steak dinner is 14.00 All this and a cup of coffee for 400.00
 
I have both the Ace 250 and Tesoro machines.

The ace is lightweight, effective, and fun play with, for as little as $212 + shipping.
It does not compete with quality hi-dollar machines.

The Tesoro Silver uMax is liteweight, a pleasure to operate, and reliable, for low as $239 + shipping.
A quality hi-dollar machine will work hard and long for slim pickens after a Tesoro has been there first!

The Garrett Ace has a 2yr warranty, all Tesoros have a lifetime warranty.

The Fisher CZ5 is a great machine, now out of production, and the company sold.
If you want to spend more money and someone will warrant the machine, go for it if you're a risk taker!

If you have a local dealer within reasonable distance, see what they offer.
A local metal detector club would be very helpful.

Have fun!
 
Tabdog,I have owned a lot of CZs and they usually hold up very well built like a tank.I think the biggest problem is a cheap price on a used CZ is hard to find.On the other hand used Sovereigns are very risky too many people like to modify inside the control box with this unit.Which it only needs a straight rod asm a Sunray probe and meter and its the best period.I just saw a 1270 on Ebay 325.00 buy it now a1200 series but great detector for anyone.
 
That's a good price on the 1270.

I tried to find a 1266 for a long time. I kept just missing then because everybody kept buying them up so fast.

That's when I fell into a groove with Tesoro. Right now I'm using four machines that run on the 10kHz uMax coils. That way I have a selection of very good coils without having to buy coils for each machine. I have,,,, 5.75",,,7",,,8",,,9"X8",,,12"X10",,,,. I only had to purchase two of thoes, the rest came with the MD's including the 12"X10" concentric coil. I spent less than $200 on coils. The 12"X10" Concentric is a great relic coil. I use manual ground balance when relic hunting so the concentric with the added depth will ware me out digging deep holes.:goodnight:

I may yet find me a Fisher 1266, but with selections like the Cz5 at $400, I might re- think that.

HH,
 
I own an Garrett ACE 250 and a Garrett GTP 1350 and they both are great detectors. However if I would have bought the 250 first, I more than likely be a 1 detector hunter. The ACE is a great detector and costs less than half the price of the 1350.
Remember people are loyal to their brand, it is like asking "should I buy a Ford or a Chevrolet?"
I just dated myself, now days it is "Should I buy a Honda or a Toyota?"
 
The CZ20 now a CZ21 so even though we like to complain about First Texas they are doing something right.John D. as for the either a Ford or Chevy use to be correct American's who today think it should be Toyota or Honda will add to the US losing their manufacturing base.Senator Carl Levin from MI said"everyone can't work at a service job or on a computer American's need real manufacturing jobs"
 
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