Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Headphones Not Shutting off Speaker Potential Software Fix - Tested with Meter

earthmansurfer

Active member
This is regarding Gray Ghost, Sun Ray, Chef Phones, etc. not shutting off the detectors speaker when connected to the headphone module. This is not about the WM10, just those of us with the starter pack.

What I did was first find the active pins - labeled 1, 2 & 3 in the photo below. Then I measured the Ohms between the active pins on the detached headphone module with the following setups:

1. Koss Headphones attached to headphone module (they work) - Pins 1 & 2 = 220 ohms, 1 & 3 = 113 ohms, 2 & 3 =111 ohms
2. Gray Ghost headphones with adapter attached (they work) ------ Pins 1 & 2 = 25ohms, 1 & 3 = 26 ohms, 2 & 3 - 0 ohms
3. Gray Ghost headphones with no adapter attached (don't work) - Pins 1 & 2 = open , 1 & 3 = 24 ohms, 2 & 3 = open
*Note - Chef Phones had same activity, but the ohms were higher at 46. I imagine Sun Ray would be similar.

So, I believe the software simply needs to listen between pins 2 & 3 and if there is an ohm reading, shut off the speaker.
With no headphones plugged in there is an open circuit between the pins, so there can be no accidental shutting off of the speaker.

This solution seems plausible. I would appreciate it if testers or those with connections to Minelab could please bring this to their attention for a software fix if I am indeed correct.

Thanks,
Albert

ps - Note the last picture with the adapter plugged in. It sticks out 2" and is a bit wobbly. My concern, as well as others, is if you come down on this in the field, you will break the headphone module.
 
yes i have found the adaptor fix not so good with the 2 connections there is fuzz in the audio when the headphone jack spins in the adaptor it would be great if the above post good be implemented to work am sure the 2 $ adaptor plug is not the best of looks for a high end detector?
 
It requires a connection between the Ring and Sleeve leads.....http://www.minelab.com/__files/f/93182/KBA_21-1-CTX-3030-Audio-Options.pdf
 
I believe Ralph at Sunray is offering updates to headphones where it will work for the Gold Pros..
 
Digger - Thanks for the reply. I am familiar with Minelabs response to the headphone issue - but of note, it appears that was released after the headphone issue was discovered.

What I am saying is that they can write a software fix for this. Look at my detailed post above.

Evan - Yeah, I know a few of the companies are doing rewirings. That is great and needed.

The thing that is a bit odd is that the CTX is wired for Stereo. Why? Unless they are going to add stereo functionality (no true AM mode on the CTX, so I don't see a stereo mixed mode on the horizon), why not wire the machine for Mono (like most machines) and the problem is solved? Minelab mentioned industry standards (per that pdf) regarding wiring and how GG, Sunray, etc. didn't follow it. But is what Minelab did really any different wiring it for stereo? Goodrat said it well on another thread here:

Industry standard? What industry? Minelab is the only metal detector company that used tip/ring and no sleeve, so they are the minority (and caused a lot of headache for headphone companies).
The idea was to put stereo headphone speakers in series because they used to be low ohms in the old days for home stereo.

Why not just release a patch, not blame anyone and just fix the issue?

Albert

ps - And please don't get me wrong. I love the CTX, this is my gripe right now and I'm expressing it in hopes that they solve it.
 
Just a guess is all. However I was able to make my gray ghost phones work properly by making a small bridge/connection between the middle and upper sections of the plug with a tiny metal strip cut from a soda can.Works like a charm and when I pull the plug the bridge falls of and all is as issued.:thumbup:
I like this method better than the adapter plug projecting out of the machine....
 
My headphones work great ......Now you want a software upgrade to make NONE Standard Headphones work ..... which would make my headphones not WORK.....the other manufacturer have admitted they are in ERROR..

you do not rewire the space shuttle from the kitchen sink.....Mine lab DID the right thing .....accept it and Move ON....


jimpugh
 
Ray Mo - Do you mean inside the headphone housing? And does the speaker come back on when it is removed (I need that for videoing). Could you describe what you did (or include a pic), I will try it.
I don't think it can be hard wired though as it is plugged into a pin jack, so it must be receiving a signal in there.

Jimpugh - I am speaking respectfully and it would be nice if you could do the same and not just say "move on" or bring up space shuttle analogies. If people just moved on in our history, not a lot would have gotten done and we wouldn't have the rights we do. We weren't born with rights, we had to take them.

My intention is for all headphones to work if possible, not just some. Manufacturers will start to rewire headphones, but that is not admission of guilt. Read goodrats post above. So, it would be nice for Minelab to address the issue.

Thanks guys,
Albert
 
I will say it again detectors are not designed and built to work with certain brands of headphones (or any other aftermarket accessories for that matter). Headphones are built to work with detectors. The aftermarket adjusts in all industries as new products are released.
 
Gemini13 said:
I will say it again detectors are not designed and built to work with certain brands of headphones (or any other aftermarket accessories for that matter). Headphones are built to work with detectors. The aftermarket adjusts in all industries as new products are released.

In the meantime what is wrong with a software fix? What is easier, updating software or rewiring existing/future headphones, using potentially damage causing adapters, etc? It's very easy to say what you are saying when you are not affected by the issue.

I will say it again, I'm not blaming anyone, just looking for the easiest solution and not a "We're not at fault" excuse. If a software fix can't be done, then let Minelab say so. I would like to hear it from them, from an Engineer. But if a software fix can be done then everyone is happy. Isn't that what is best?

Thanks,
Albert
 
Gemini13 said:
I will say it again detectors are not designed and built to work with certain brands of headphones (or any other aftermarket accessories for that matter). Headphones are built to work with detectors. The aftermarket adjusts in all industries as new products are released.

dude do you own a CTX ? registered 5 weeks and running around here telling everyone how it is. what settings you running ?
 
Just solder the plug to match the diagram Digger provided. If it is the industry standard, it should still work on other units... unless they are not wired right. That's another issue though.
 
That sounds like a simple solution but it is not just how the plug is wired but how it is wired inside the headphones as well. Most of the HPs having problems have a limiter circuit, a compatibility switch, volume controls for each speaker or any combination of those. The simple stereo headphone like the UR-30 is not a problem.
 
Thanks for the comments guys.

Larry - Would someone with an understanding of electronics and soldering be able to follow that Minelab doc to get the headphones to work? (I mean is it a general type of diagram). My German isn't great and his English is non existent is why I ask. Both my Gray Ghosts and Chef Phones don't shut the speaker off. But, I tutor my neighbors son for free, so think he will do to my headphones what needs to be done :biggrin:

Albert
 
I think so, you might have to bypass some of the internal electronics like the limiter, but wiring headphones for stereo with volume controls is pretty straight forward. I am very happy with the bridge in the headphone adaptor fix but I don't make videos so I don't need the external speaker to work. The easiest fix is to use the WM-10 if you have one. For those who can wait a while longer, I think various manufactures will have the new models out and of course, you can send in your old ones to get updated as well.

Lots of options for the headphones if you don't want to use the stock UR-30's.
 
Gemini13 said:
I will say it again detectors are not designed and built to work with certain brands of headphones (or any other aftermarket accessories for that matter). Headphones are built to work with detectors. The aftermarket adjusts in all industries as new products are released.

I have 4 detectors and some others that are now sold. All my headphones work on any detector I've ever owned. It has never been an issue. How nice it is when I'm roaming around flea markets or garage sales and I see a fantastic set of headphones for practically nothing. I buy them knowing they will 100 percent work on all my detectors. Headphones should never be a proprietary piece of hardware. Headphones were originally designed to work on stereo equipment, not metal detectors. Any headphones worked on any piece of stereo equipment. Detector companies always designed their detectors around the headphones, not the other way around. You have 3 connections, right, left, and ground. It doesn't get any more simple than that.
 
I emailed Gray Ghost with some questions and it doesn't look like they are going to be changing their wiring design. Here is a quote (think from Gary) regarding that part:

We have not even tried to rewire our hp's for one unit because it would effect something else.

You know, I can't disagree with what the man said. I wonder what is going to happen to other detectors if Sun Ray rewires their headphones as they said, or will it be just a CTX model?

Albert
 
Takes me less tham 5 min. to make a set of Pro Golds work fine with the CTX and does not require any wire cutting ,soldering or any other hacking .Just a 4" piece of insulated copper wire twisted around 2 solder terminals as a jumper .
 
Ray-Mo. said:
Takes me less tham 5 min. to make a set of Pro Golds work fine with the CTX and does not require any wire cutting ,soldering or any other hacking .Just a 4" piece of insulated copper wire twisted around 2 solder terminals as a jumper .

Ray-Mo - Thanks for the reply but is that the suggestion that keeps the speaker off when you unplug them? I make videos quite often and need to be able to hear the speaker when the headphones are unplugged. If your method does that, please give me the details.

Albert

ps - Thus far no problems with the stereo to mono adapter. It stays connected to the headphone plug very tightly and isn't going anywhere.
 
Top