Captain Leno
New member
I recently took my new V3 with me on a business trip to Texas. I did not have too much time to detect but I did have plenty of evening hotel time to study.
This "Study" step is essiential in learning this or any other new machine. I would suggest anyone do this, it has made a lot of things come clear to me.
If you sit around and wait on forum members to "Set-up" your detector for you than your going to be very frustrated and bewildered.
And most likely be at the mercy of the the stock programs and 4 inch depth.
There is no way that anyone can tell you exactly how to get better depth from your machine. Unless of course they live next door, hunt the same places you hunt, have the same sweep speed, and like the same targets and oh yeah.. having the same hearing abilities you do. However, there are some people in the forums that take this hobby VERY serious and are very good at relaying thier experience in text, from those you can learn a lot. I would suggest doing something similar to what I have done the last several days.
I removed my coil and lower arm, set the detector right here on the table, turned it and my computer on.
Downloaded a manual from the whites site and went through EVERYTHING.
I made several "Practice" Programs and saved them, Changed them, put them in the library, erased them, restored them, renamed them, and deleted them and done the whole thing over and over.
I took stock programs and tweeked them and restored them.
Everything I think you can possibly do to a hunting program I think I have done...
One thing for sure, I got all that saving, changing and storing DOWN TO A SCIENCE.
I then jumped into the manual and read it all and adjusted it all. Read it once and if I did not understand I read it again.
Before this week I had no idea what:
TX BOOST or RX GAIN did..
The Diffrence between DISC SENS and ALL METAL SENS was and how i might push the envelope a little deeper to get those sweet old targets <hint if your looking for depth
AUDIO was pretty self explainatory.. did not have to study that too much but now know how to adjust my threshold and understand why it is important to have it.
DISC Accept I understood but now understand what WRAP is.
I now know what Bottle Cap Reject is for and how its used and now I know that for the most part, unless I get into some real trashy areas I think I will just leave it off.
I now know that HOT ROCK reject is most likley something that I am not going to be concerned with in Indiana where I like to hunt.
Ground Filter (HUGE REVELATION HERE) I got what I think is a COMPLETE understanding of what that is doing, and in my Mild Soil the Factory Programs MAY NOT be best suited for MAXIMUM DEPTH in combination with my TURTLE SWEEP SPEED.
Frequency settings are now more clearer to me.. and when I am wanting to grab DEEP SILVER I should consider 2.5 kHz and give it a whirl..
I also learned what to do if I am working close by another detectorist ( offset ) but I doubt that will happen too often...
And I also learned that when I am home hunting the mild black dirt that I am not going to have to play with the ground tracking too much but if I decide to take off an go prospecting somewhere for gold I might want to re-read the section on that...
I am just trying to tell anyone that might be getting a bit frustrated that you need to take the time to read the manual.. and read it with your detector and PLAY WITH IT !
I think some detector company's are a bit misleading when they advertise "Turn and Go" programs... yes the factory pre-set to some degree are "Turn and Go" but not completly...
This "Study" step is essiential in learning this or any other new machine. I would suggest anyone do this, it has made a lot of things come clear to me.
If you sit around and wait on forum members to "Set-up" your detector for you than your going to be very frustrated and bewildered.
And most likely be at the mercy of the the stock programs and 4 inch depth.
There is no way that anyone can tell you exactly how to get better depth from your machine. Unless of course they live next door, hunt the same places you hunt, have the same sweep speed, and like the same targets and oh yeah.. having the same hearing abilities you do. However, there are some people in the forums that take this hobby VERY serious and are very good at relaying thier experience in text, from those you can learn a lot. I would suggest doing something similar to what I have done the last several days.
I removed my coil and lower arm, set the detector right here on the table, turned it and my computer on.
Downloaded a manual from the whites site and went through EVERYTHING.
I made several "Practice" Programs and saved them, Changed them, put them in the library, erased them, restored them, renamed them, and deleted them and done the whole thing over and over.
I took stock programs and tweeked them and restored them.
Everything I think you can possibly do to a hunting program I think I have done...
One thing for sure, I got all that saving, changing and storing DOWN TO A SCIENCE.
I then jumped into the manual and read it all and adjusted it all. Read it once and if I did not understand I read it again.
Before this week I had no idea what:
TX BOOST or RX GAIN did..
The Diffrence between DISC SENS and ALL METAL SENS was and how i might push the envelope a little deeper to get those sweet old targets <hint if your looking for depth
AUDIO was pretty self explainatory.. did not have to study that too much but now know how to adjust my threshold and understand why it is important to have it.
DISC Accept I understood but now understand what WRAP is.
I now know what Bottle Cap Reject is for and how its used and now I know that for the most part, unless I get into some real trashy areas I think I will just leave it off.
I now know that HOT ROCK reject is most likley something that I am not going to be concerned with in Indiana where I like to hunt.
Ground Filter (HUGE REVELATION HERE) I got what I think is a COMPLETE understanding of what that is doing, and in my Mild Soil the Factory Programs MAY NOT be best suited for MAXIMUM DEPTH in combination with my TURTLE SWEEP SPEED.
Frequency settings are now more clearer to me.. and when I am wanting to grab DEEP SILVER I should consider 2.5 kHz and give it a whirl..
I also learned what to do if I am working close by another detectorist ( offset ) but I doubt that will happen too often...
And I also learned that when I am home hunting the mild black dirt that I am not going to have to play with the ground tracking too much but if I decide to take off an go prospecting somewhere for gold I might want to re-read the section on that...
I am just trying to tell anyone that might be getting a bit frustrated that you need to take the time to read the manual.. and read it with your detector and PLAY WITH IT !
I think some detector company's are a bit misleading when they advertise "Turn and Go" programs... yes the factory pre-set to some degree are "Turn and Go" but not completly...