Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

CTX Software Upgrade

saltwater fix worked well to the point if I was on wet sand had to go wet the coil it worked better :clapping:

but like someone mentioned above it still falses on iron and well its annoying so an upgrade there is the only one I want.

AJ
 
amberjack said:
saltwater fix worked well to the point if I was on wet sand had to go wet the coil it worked better :clapping:

but like someone mentioned above it still falses on iron and well its annoying so an upgrade there is the only one I want.

AJ

ALL machines false on iron. It has to do with the oxidation of the iron, halo effect, etc. Digging iron is very easy to avoid with the CTX.
 
jimmy said:

You have to pay attention to the quality of the sound response, the pattern on the screen, the numbers, and exactly "where" over the ground the coil is responding. You can never eliminate 100% of the iron but if you learn your machine you can avoid at least 90%
 
Thanks Jason, I got about 20 hrs on the ctx and just not clicking right now, I came from a whites mxt & etrac and I think I need to forget what I learned from them and start from scratch so to speak with the ctx and use your advice.
 
Yea iron on the CTX is distinguishable from sound, pinpointing, and even in the numbers. First off a false is a false, because well, it's not consistent. When you get a high tone signal that you are unsure of, walk around the target 360 degrees while scanning the target. Very likely you will get the null or iron grunt depending on what program you are running, if it is iron. A real nonferrous high target tone is going to come through either the entire 360 degrees or at least 90% of it. If you are still unsure pinpointing is another clue. Most times the CTX will not want to pinpoint on the iron, and instead you will hear the pinpoint sounds start on the outside of where the target should be. Lastly, from my experience, iron loves to come in around 12:39 and 12:40, if it is indeed falsing and giving you a false reading. That can be another clue if you are on the fence still with a target AFTER trying the previous tips. Listening is more important that what the screen is telling you. Consistency is the key word. The CTX is very consistent, and does a great job with maintaining an accurate ID on deep targets. If you are getting a high tone in one spot, and it nulls or grunts the majority of the rest of the 360 degree turn, it is very very very likely iron. Learn to trust what the machine is telling you. Good luck.
 
yeah I don't dig hardly any iron, but as above I have to investigate and it slows me down :sadwalk:

so maybe I ask for to much or am just lazy :detecting:

AJ
 
Try turning down the Sensitivity when you see iron falsing. I'm curious if it eliminates it. I was doing some experimentations with settings and found this seemed true - but haven't really tried it in the field yet.
 
jimmy said:
Thanks Jason, I got about 20 hrs on the ctx and just not clicking right now, I came from a whites mxt & etrac and I think I need to forget what I learned from them and start from scratch so to speak with the ctx and use your advice.

Yes you do. You need at least 100 hours before things really start making sense. Of course, that's if you are really paying attention to how every target is responding. If people just treat it like a $100 beep-and-dig detector they will never learn it.
 
Just some thoughts from my very limited time on the CTX: Know the area you're detecting so you can ID the trash common to that site. i.e., Around my old farmhouse, the steel siding installation and aluminum window wrapping left many small, flat metal pieces and some certain sized screws lying around the outside walls. So, it's good to note the CTX's response to these items so you can recognize the sound in that area. The flat steel siding and aluminum trimmings signal high, but a specific, repeatable high so you'd know, when operating in that area what is happening.

Also, large flat iron laid horizontally can read high, but it'll give you iron sounds and traces on the display. If one just ran around blindly swinging, without figuring out the history of the area before, it'd take awhile to figure all this out. Having one of those long handled magnets to sweep around a sided house can show you what trash to expect also.

I'm digging relics a lot, so dig a lot of iron, but you can learn to size it and judge it by approaching from different sides and noting the starting point and by raising the coil off the ground. Even in my trashy farm yard, though, a silver fork rings through like a dinner gong... no questions on that signal!

Just keep exploring and swinging and learning the common junk in the area of interest and you'll pick it up. I think our ears begin to sense the signal better than our eyes, so a period of careful listening and digging everything will teach you a lot.
 
I would like to see a computer based program that would allow a Minelab tech to trouble shoot your machine online. They do it with computers, programs, etc., so why not the CTX? The software should be easily adaptable to almost any Mac or PC. In fact why not have a link where an owner could go that would allow the owner to troubleshoot his machine? Go online, go to the site, bring up the program, plug the CTX in and do a diagnostics, maybe reset some levels or test a coil/s for factory settings. It could also allow more bins. I realize the 'issues' that could cause with viruses, and folks deciding to 'superman' their machines but that is all controllable.

Would also love to be able to get an extended warranty from Minelab, not a dealer, for after the 3 years. I know some dealers have the extra 2 years or so, but I understand Minelab is not allowing that anymore. I would pay $200 or so for an extra 2 or 3 years. I dont expect them to warranty and make parts forever but 5 years ins not out of line for a $3000 msrp machine. They do it for washing machines, televisions, fridges, etc. so why not a detector. I dont need a warranty on the shaft or the other stuff that is wearable just a 'repair' parts and labor policy on the control head and coils. Dealers come and go so a 'dealer' policy is quite often worthless.
 
jas415 said:
Would also love to be able to get an extended warranty from Minelab, not a dealer, for after the 3 years. I know some dealers have the extra 2 years or so, but I understand Minelab is not allowing that anymore. I would pay $200 or so for an extra 2 or 3 years. I dont expect them to warranty and make parts forever but 5 years ins not out of line for a $3000 msrp machine. They do it for washing machines, televisions, fridges, etc. so why not a detector. I dont need a warranty on the shaft or the other stuff that is wearable just a 'repair' parts and labor policy on the control head and coils. Dealers come and go so a 'dealer' policy is quite often worthless.

They won't warranty beyond what expect to be the trouble free period. Since they refuse to provide longer warranties, you have to deduce they expect the machines to begin have problems beyond that period.
 
jas415 said:
Would also love to be able to get an extended warranty from Minelab, not a dealer, for after the 3 years. I know some dealers have the extra 2 years or so, but I understand Minelab is not allowing that anymore. I would pay $200 or so for an extra 2 or 3 years. I don't expect them to warranty and make parts forever but 5 years ins not out of line for a $3000 msrp machine. They do it for washing machines, televisions, fridges, etc. so why not a detector. I don't need a warranty on the shaft or the other stuff that is wearable just a 'repair' parts and labor policy on the control head and coils. Dealers come and go so a 'dealer' policy is quite often worthless.

Pretty simple and if you get the right dealer to make you a good sale. Buy another CTX, but get a package deal with extra stuff like the one I mentioned at a certain unnamed dealer. Then unload all the stuff you don't want, list your old CTX on eBay or a detecting forum and I bet you could almost get your money back? The loss would or could be around $200-400 and there you have it. New CTX with warranty.
 
Top