Coin Hunting Patterns and Settings

[mjax]

Hello, I am new to the forum. I recently switched to a CTX 3030 and I am finding that it doesn't "grab" the target signal (coins, in particular) as well as I would like. That is, it seems like I am having to dig a lot of iffy signals to find anything. So, my question is if you are using a limited pattern (say, one specifically created for old US coins) does that make it more difficult for the machine to produce a good, 2-way signal? Does a more "open" pattern allow the machine to operate better.

Also, I would definitely like to hear what others are running for mild to no mineralization while coin hunting. Lastly, volume gain is still a mystery to me. I go with a setting of around 15. Does it really make a huge difference in decent condition? Thanks so much!
Mark

 

[IDXMonster]

Oh boy...as soon as I post something, someone else will post something different. Well...since one of my main missions is to help others increase their finds because I’m just like that, here’s what you do.

Volume Gain-30. This gives maximum response from even the weakest/deepest targets.
Combined Mode with Ferrous/Coin Target Separation
You will have 5 tone bins. Set the upper right bin for high conductors at 1200hz. Set all four others to 75hz.
Size your high conductor bin from 38-50 Conductive, 0-25 Ferrous
Fast-OFF
Deep-OFF
Seawater-OFF
Pinpoint-Normal
Response-Normal
Be SURE to get extremely good at PINPOINTING. “Centering” the target is critical for proper ID and depth indication.
If you are hunting public ground, do NOT dig targets less than 6” on the meter. This takes serious discipline because of the temptation. Discipline yourself to leave what has very little chance of being silver or old alone!

Just for peace of mind....the first 8 months I had the CTX I dug 88 silver coins from public ground here in southern Wisconsin. The second season (8 months long) I dug 151. The third season I dug 103 and last year 91. These are my settings from basically Day 1. You will NOT get nickels with this but you will get more silver and old copper by not paying attention to all of the red herrings in the nickel range.

 

[IDXMonster]

Since I can’t edit my first post anymore....this setup will not pick up Indians and possibly very small silver coins like trimes and POSSIBLY half dimes. The trade off here is....the more of the low to mid conductors you can simply disc out, the more junk you will weed out. It’s not very likely you’ll have a lot of half dimes and trimes to choose from, and I tend to disc out Indians which normally come in at 12-32 to 12-35 because around here they are just wrecked by corrosion. In order to concentrate on the more COMMON sized coins, I set up this way. If you want to go after stuff in the low 30’s...just lower the bin to 30 to accept them.

 

[mjax]

Since I can’t edit my first post anymore....this setup will not pick up Indians and possibly very small silver coins like trimes and POSSIBLY half dimes. The trade off here is....the more of the low to mid conductors you can simply disc out, the more junk you will weed out. It’s not very likely you’ll have a lot of half dimes and trimes to choose from, and I tend to disc out Indians which normally come in at 12-32 to 12-35 because around here they are just wrecked by corrosion. In order to concentrate on the more COMMON sized coins, I set up this way. If you want to go after stuff in the low 30’s...just lower the bin to 30 to accept them.

Thanks for the information. I do like finding the Indians (they are mostly in really good shape in Middle Tennessee). I imagine that older nickels are always corroded, right? I say that because I haven't found any Buffalo, V, or Shields that haven't looked rusted. One question, why did you choose not to select fast or deep for recovery? Thanks again.

 

[IDXMonster]

Thanks for the information. I do like finding the Indians (they are mostly in really good shape in Middle Tennessee). I imagine that older nickels are always corroded, right? I say that because I haven't found any Buffalo, V, or Shields that haven't looked rusted. One question, why did you choose not to select fast or deep for recovery? Thanks again.

Fast ON turns OFF some filtering which causes the ID to be less accurate when deep. Deep ON employs MORE filtering which causes the machine to be slower in separation. That’s from the manual. I simply run with them both off because it’s a happy medium.

 

[bklein]

I would like to see videos on Deep and Fast settings. At the beach I run with them enabled but don’t perceive an obvious difference if I switch them off.
I set Smooth rather than Normal. This may give you the response you would like. It seems to hold the target signal as the coil sweeps over it. Normal is shorter duration, maybe better for separation? Another thing is try someone else’s coil to be sure yours has the sensitivity it should. My first 11” was weak, my first 17” was weak.

 

[LTimedigger]

Oh boy...as soon as I post something, someone else will post something different. Well...since one of my main missions is to help others increase their finds because I’m just like that, here’s what you do.

Volume Gain-30. This gives maximum response from even the weakest/deepest targets.
Combined Mode with Ferrous/Coin Target Separation
You will have 5 tone bins. Set the upper right bin for high conductors at 1200hz. Set all four others to 75hz.
Size your high conductor bin from 38-50 Conductive, 0-25 Ferrous
Fast-OFF
Deep-OFF
Seawater-OFF
Pinpoint-Normal
Response-Normal
Be SURE to get extremely good at PINPOINTING. “Centering” the target is critical for proper ID and depth indication.
If you are hunting public ground, do NOT dig targets less than 6” on the meter. This takes serious discipline because of the temptation. Discipline yourself to leave what has very little chance of being silver or old alone!

Just for peace of mind....the first 8 months I had the CTX I dug 88 silver coins from public ground here in southern Wisconsin. The second season (8 months long) I dug 151. The third season I dug 103 and last year 91. These are my settings from basically Day 1. You will NOT get nickels with this but you will get more silver and old copper by not paying attention to all of the red herrings in the nickel range.

U didnt mention it IDX but if memory serves me you also run manual starting around 15 and adjusting slowly up till you start to get too much falsing am I right?

 

[IDXMonster]

U didnt mention it IDX but if memory serves me you also run manual starting around 15 and adjusting slowly up till you start to get too much falsing am I right?

U didnt mention it IDX but if memory serves me you also run manual starting around 15 and adjusting slowly up till you start to get too much falsing am I right?

LT...that is what I would do, but a brand new user should really start in Auto+3 to get the gist of things, IMO. Now if I was using the Explorer....manual sensitivity for sure, even at lower levels. It was shown before that if the CTX is running below 23 by itself in Auto+3, then running manual sensitivity higher than 23 can possibly see targets Auto cannot. I actually think BK might’ve done that demonstration. But we just need to walk before we run. Then when the OP “gets a handle on it”...he can set up the sensitivity level just as you said.