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ace 250
- Thread starter monoman
- Start date
lazyaussie
New member
khouse 
monoman the ACE250 is a great little detector for hunting new coins ( just loves the $1-$2 coins ) & jewellery & it"s all right at finding old stuff to ( but if ya hunting around my area you should buy a bounty hunter as i don't need the competition
.) the pinpoint can be hard at the start but once you get use to it it"s fine.
i really don"t have any complaint's about my ACE250.
monoman the ACE250 is a great little detector for hunting new coins ( just loves the $1-$2 coins ) & jewellery & it"s all right at finding old stuff to ( but if ya hunting around my area you should buy a bounty hunter as i don't need the competition
.) the pinpoint can be hard at the start but once you get use to it it"s fine.i really don"t have any complaint's about my ACE250.
lazyaussie
New member
i look forward to seeing some great finds
- - asking what people here think of the Ace 250 is like preaching to the choir!
The reponses are liable to be, er, rather biased.
So, in keeping with that, here's what Charles Garrett himself says about it:
(sic)..."Because a quality metal detector is really a scientific instrument, you can't expect it to be inexpensive. In fact, buying a cheap, off brand detector will shorten your career, because you won't find much of anything.
I make it a policy never to talk bad about the detectors made by other, reputable companies. And I also recommend that you don't need the most expensive model available, from my company or any other. Over the years my company has built a wide range of detectors. Yet our one continuing goal is to give the customer the most value for their money - regardless whether he buys one of our models or not.
We've even finally achieved my personal goal of a simple, capable, OneTouch computerized instrument that beats that $200 price (Ace 250)."
- - excerpted from the book, "Treasure Hunting for Fun and Profit," by Charles Garrett.
This is from Bill "Uncle Willie" Revis:
"Somewhere on this forum I spoke of it when I field tested it way back. It's very sensitive so run your sensitivity at four bars to start with.
Target response and recovery is lightning fast so it's virtually impossible too swing to fast to miss targets. Also, if you do whip the coil it will go somewhat deeper. Slower scanning still works best and it will allow this, too
Practice pinpointing, as it is a little different. The "hotspot" is the center, front tip of the inside oval on the coil. It almost pinpoints like a DD coil. Just scan side to side to center the target then drag the coil straight back until the instant the signal stops and your target will be right there. If you have trouble with a target turn ninety degrees to the target and scan it again and you'll hit it right on. On deep targets the hotspot will move back from the tip of the inside oval a bit. Garrett has an animated diagram on their site that gives a general idea on pinpointing.
The 250 is sensitive to small objects and gold and you will find it performs like detectors costing three times as much - which is why Garrett is selling tons of them.
The 12-inch coil will get you another 2-3 inches in depth and operates and pinpoints just like the standard coil. The Sniper coil is hot in trashy areas and gets great depth for a small coil and is sensitive to small objects."
Andreas Meyer offers this:
"Here are some tips for the new and old Ace 250 owner to get the best power out of it.
1. Tape the coil cable straight up the lower rod.
That way you can run sensitivity much higher without falsing.
2. Hunt in the Relic or All Metal Mode. If you start notching out more you will easily loose 2 inches of depth.
3. If you get a weak signal try to swing the coil faster over the target. That improves target ID and depth.
4. If the target just jumps around in the coin range, it is a deep coin most of the time. If it jumps all over the ID range it is trash.
5. If you use the 4.5 sniper coil (just 60$) run sensitivity at max. You can still get coins 6 to 7 inches deep!
This small sniper coil is important for trashy sides (around old houses, around trees in parks). The standard coil sees to many targets at once and good targets will be masked by trash. Try it...it will open your eyes to what target separation is all about.
6. Pinpointing:
If the pinpointing area seems to large go over the target release pinpoint switch and press it again OVER the target.
That is called "detuning" and the target will shrink and be in the center of the coil.
7. Have fun.... - - Andy"
Since you've already ordered, there is little else to add except that your committment is commendable. As you can see you got a lot for your $200.
So now, here are some of the things to be mindful of with the Little Ace 250...
- The headphone jack is oddly placed, on the offside rear.
I'm not sure what they were thinking with this, but it ensures the headphone cable will be right in the way each time you stoop to recover a target.
- The pinpoint is sort of vague, not real sharp. It's the number one problem for newcomers and you have to work with it to get it right.....
- The response envelope of the coil is also very broad, meaning it hits hard across a large area over a target.
This can be a good thing, but it forces you to really focus on a "minds eye" pinpoint. Weaning yourself off the pinpoint feature is more difficult, this way.
For a newcomer, all of this will be disconcerting, so be patient.
- The display is peckish.
For less than 200$, whaddaya want?. But it isn't big and so you may find yourself squinting to read it.
- Enough warning should be given to newcomers about the sensitivity.
I'd call it barely restrained, especially at high SENS settings and it WILL false plenty if you crank her too high and get into the trash.
This is seen as a jumping ID cursor and an audio that seems to just go off for no reason, or cannot be repeated over a target. If that occurs, don't be afraid to reduce the gain.
(It's best if you use the higher SENS settings to help define deep or 'iffy' targets, while sweep scanning in the midrange settings).
- The depth accuracy of the display is just good.
Newcomers want to put deep faith in the information their detector provides, but old hands know such things are best considered an approximation. There are two other ways to help determine depth of targets:
1. The "beep" of the detector will shorten up to a 'blip' on deeper targets.
2. The tried and true "coil lift" method. Simply raise your coil as you scan over the target. Deep targets will stop signaling right away, as the coil retreats away from them.
- The Ace 250 is VERY loud, with a strong audio output. If you don't use headphones, you are going to draw a crowd.
- The headphones that come with it new, are of the El Cheapo variety. You'll want to replace them, since they'll likely break before long.
- It doesn't have amplitude modulation.
Like all Garretts, it just comes on and hits you with a loud audio tone when it detects a target. Whatever headphones you eventually get, ensure they have a built in volume control.
AS you grow and develop a more skilled and knowledgable hand at this detecting business, you may find the Ace 250 begin to fade in it's appeal. There are better performing models out there, with more refined features and you will discover them and be lured by them. Don't worry about it, it's normal.
If that happens, keep the Ace and explore the other offerings. Knowledge is Power, after all.
The 250 will always be there for you, as a backup, loaner or nostalgia trip. Some people even revert back to it, for good.
The reponses are liable to be, er, rather biased.
So, in keeping with that, here's what Charles Garrett himself says about it:
(sic)..."Because a quality metal detector is really a scientific instrument, you can't expect it to be inexpensive. In fact, buying a cheap, off brand detector will shorten your career, because you won't find much of anything.
I make it a policy never to talk bad about the detectors made by other, reputable companies. And I also recommend that you don't need the most expensive model available, from my company or any other. Over the years my company has built a wide range of detectors. Yet our one continuing goal is to give the customer the most value for their money - regardless whether he buys one of our models or not.
We've even finally achieved my personal goal of a simple, capable, OneTouch computerized instrument that beats that $200 price (Ace 250)."
- - excerpted from the book, "Treasure Hunting for Fun and Profit," by Charles Garrett.
This is from Bill "Uncle Willie" Revis:
"Somewhere on this forum I spoke of it when I field tested it way back. It's very sensitive so run your sensitivity at four bars to start with.
Target response and recovery is lightning fast so it's virtually impossible too swing to fast to miss targets. Also, if you do whip the coil it will go somewhat deeper. Slower scanning still works best and it will allow this, too
Practice pinpointing, as it is a little different. The "hotspot" is the center, front tip of the inside oval on the coil. It almost pinpoints like a DD coil. Just scan side to side to center the target then drag the coil straight back until the instant the signal stops and your target will be right there. If you have trouble with a target turn ninety degrees to the target and scan it again and you'll hit it right on. On deep targets the hotspot will move back from the tip of the inside oval a bit. Garrett has an animated diagram on their site that gives a general idea on pinpointing.
The 250 is sensitive to small objects and gold and you will find it performs like detectors costing three times as much - which is why Garrett is selling tons of them.
The 12-inch coil will get you another 2-3 inches in depth and operates and pinpoints just like the standard coil. The Sniper coil is hot in trashy areas and gets great depth for a small coil and is sensitive to small objects."
Andreas Meyer offers this:
"Here are some tips for the new and old Ace 250 owner to get the best power out of it.
1. Tape the coil cable straight up the lower rod.
That way you can run sensitivity much higher without falsing.
2. Hunt in the Relic or All Metal Mode. If you start notching out more you will easily loose 2 inches of depth.
3. If you get a weak signal try to swing the coil faster over the target. That improves target ID and depth.
4. If the target just jumps around in the coin range, it is a deep coin most of the time. If it jumps all over the ID range it is trash.
5. If you use the 4.5 sniper coil (just 60$) run sensitivity at max. You can still get coins 6 to 7 inches deep!
This small sniper coil is important for trashy sides (around old houses, around trees in parks). The standard coil sees to many targets at once and good targets will be masked by trash. Try it...it will open your eyes to what target separation is all about.
6. Pinpointing:
If the pinpointing area seems to large go over the target release pinpoint switch and press it again OVER the target.
That is called "detuning" and the target will shrink and be in the center of the coil.
7. Have fun.... - - Andy"
Since you've already ordered, there is little else to add except that your committment is commendable. As you can see you got a lot for your $200.
So now, here are some of the things to be mindful of with the Little Ace 250...
- The headphone jack is oddly placed, on the offside rear.
I'm not sure what they were thinking with this, but it ensures the headphone cable will be right in the way each time you stoop to recover a target.
- The pinpoint is sort of vague, not real sharp. It's the number one problem for newcomers and you have to work with it to get it right.....
- The response envelope of the coil is also very broad, meaning it hits hard across a large area over a target.
This can be a good thing, but it forces you to really focus on a "minds eye" pinpoint. Weaning yourself off the pinpoint feature is more difficult, this way.
For a newcomer, all of this will be disconcerting, so be patient.
- The display is peckish.
For less than 200$, whaddaya want?. But it isn't big and so you may find yourself squinting to read it.
- Enough warning should be given to newcomers about the sensitivity.
I'd call it barely restrained, especially at high SENS settings and it WILL false plenty if you crank her too high and get into the trash.
This is seen as a jumping ID cursor and an audio that seems to just go off for no reason, or cannot be repeated over a target. If that occurs, don't be afraid to reduce the gain.
(It's best if you use the higher SENS settings to help define deep or 'iffy' targets, while sweep scanning in the midrange settings).
- The depth accuracy of the display is just good.
Newcomers want to put deep faith in the information their detector provides, but old hands know such things are best considered an approximation. There are two other ways to help determine depth of targets:
1. The "beep" of the detector will shorten up to a 'blip' on deeper targets.
2. The tried and true "coil lift" method. Simply raise your coil as you scan over the target. Deep targets will stop signaling right away, as the coil retreats away from them.
- The Ace 250 is VERY loud, with a strong audio output. If you don't use headphones, you are going to draw a crowd.
- The headphones that come with it new, are of the El Cheapo variety. You'll want to replace them, since they'll likely break before long.
- It doesn't have amplitude modulation.
Like all Garretts, it just comes on and hits you with a loud audio tone when it detects a target. Whatever headphones you eventually get, ensure they have a built in volume control.
AS you grow and develop a more skilled and knowledgable hand at this detecting business, you may find the Ace 250 begin to fade in it's appeal. There are better performing models out there, with more refined features and you will discover them and be lured by them. Don't worry about it, it's normal.
If that happens, keep the Ace and explore the other offerings. Knowledge is Power, after all.
The 250 will always be there for you, as a backup, loaner or nostalgia trip. Some people even revert back to it, for good.
Tip #1 - Practice in your own yard pinpointing and recovering targets. You don't need to learn this in the park. This way you won't have giant holes in the park to ensure future hunting there. When you go to the park start in the tot lots and sand volleyball courts. Your DVD that comes with the detector tells you to hunt in the all metal mode. Don't do it. Start in the coin mode. Then graduate all the way up to relic mode. Keep your sensitivity no more than 5 bars starting out. Around the steel supports in the tot lots lower the sensitivity to 1 to go around the steel. Then when you get about 2 feet from the steel bump the sens back up. Last year I quickly made a pinpointing video for the 250. It could have been a lot better but it may help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liyIUKonpGs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liyIUKonpGs
n/t
If you ordered the 250, it comes stock with the medium size coil.. If you also ordered
the 9x12, you will have two coils. The stock coil is 6.5x9 inches. It's not too bad in
trash. Not as good as the sniper, but a good bit easier than the 9x12.
The 9x12 is good for larger open areas and does go the deepest of the three
coils. Good for relic hunting, etc..
the 9x12, you will have two coils. The stock coil is 6.5x9 inches. It's not too bad in
trash. Not as good as the sniper, but a good bit easier than the 9x12.
The 9x12 is good for larger open areas and does go the deepest of the three
coils. Good for relic hunting, etc..
Yep, it can be handy for quite a few places. IE: good beach coil.. Covers the ground
faster than the others. Good for relic hunting in fields as long as the brush is not
so thick to impede the swinging.
Good for an extra 2-3 inches depth vs the stock coil, but I find I need to
run the sens up pretty high to get the full performance from it.
But I do the same thing on the other coils. Heck, I'm just about to the
point where I start full blast and go backwards only if needed to reduce chatter.
IE: up in OK out in the sticks, I can run all the coils about full blast and not have
excess falsing.
faster than the others. Good for relic hunting in fields as long as the brush is not
so thick to impede the swinging.
Good for an extra 2-3 inches depth vs the stock coil, but I find I need to
run the sens up pretty high to get the full performance from it.
But I do the same thing on the other coils. Heck, I'm just about to the
point where I start full blast and go backwards only if needed to reduce chatter.
IE: up in OK out in the sticks, I can run all the coils about full blast and not have
excess falsing.
A load of features for the price point
Light weight
Common batteries
One of the big name manufacturers
Affordable detector
Optional coils (the 4.5 sniper is hot in trashy areas & affordable)
Has display screen (some prefer, some don't)
There's a market should you decide it's not for you
---------------------------------------------------------------------
No volume control - I always use quality headphones & have volume control on them.
Pinpointing - was different for me but got used to it fast
Bell Tone - (I prefer non bell tone - now I'm knocking down the 250)
Light weight
Common batteries
One of the big name manufacturers
Affordable detector
Optional coils (the 4.5 sniper is hot in trashy areas & affordable)
Has display screen (some prefer, some don't)
There's a market should you decide it's not for you
---------------------------------------------------------------------
No volume control - I always use quality headphones & have volume control on them.
Pinpointing - was different for me but got used to it fast
Bell Tone - (I prefer non bell tone - now I'm knocking down the 250)
Uncle Willy
New member
One thing about a display - one doesn't have to look at it and rely on it. Since I'm from the old school I rarely do.
Bill
Bill