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180 & 550 Meters Sovereign ID Charts

I would guess the various meters would go in this sticky and not the accessory one since some have already been posted? For that reason, I stole this quote from Rick and a picture of one type of the 550 meters Minelab used to make that he was talking about. Good info...

Rick(ND) said:
This is the older Minelab 550 meter that was made around 1998 or so, it wasn't as stable as the newer 550 meter like on the Elite, but they do work. This meter can be made into a 180 meter if you like and I have a few kits left to do this, but they have to be soldered in if you decide to buy this meter and want a 180 meter. I have seen some that don't work on the GT also and not sure why, but will work on the XS series Sovereigns. Now depending on what the person wants for this meter as it maybe easier and cheaper for a Ron's meter.
Rick

Far as I know all the various Minelab and aftermarket meters will work with all models, but I have heard what Rick is saying above about that one meter not working sometimes on a GT for some reason. Anybody know of any other meters that don't work with certain Sovereign models? I think as a general rule all will work on all models with probably just that exception in some cases with that particular meter above, and even in that meter's case some work fine with the GT and some don't for some odd reason? Also, all coils will work with all meters far as I know. Only exception being the internal InSight meter that goes into the speaker hole doesn't ID targets with an SEF coil for some reason, but there is a potential fix for this involving a pin jumper on the coil plug you just pop on if I remember right. That meter, however, once installed is permanent and won't allow you to use other external meters. Not useful for those who shaft mount the control box but some who chest or hip mount really like it.

If anybody has any other pics of various Minelab and aftermarket meters that haven't been posted in this sticky yet please do so and include any info of the pros/cons of them you can, such as some that used a 9V for a light or such and what have you. I'm still looking for any threads on the old Minelab bar graph meter and will post it and pics if I can dig it up. Anyway, here's a pic of the meter Rick was talking about above...
 
Here's my review of Ron's homemade excellent meter. The Minelab Digisearch meter is no longer being made, the last in a long line of meters from Minelab and other companies, but you may still be able to find it at some dealers or of course used just like numerous other meters that were made. Only meter I know that is still out there is an internal one that replaces the speaker, and it's not useful to most people because you can only easily see it if you are hip or chest mounting.

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1701073,1701073#msg-1701073

Also, here's a pic of one of Ron's homemade meters but they aren't all yellow like this...
 
This sticky of course needs to have a picture of the last Minelab meter that they made, the Digisearch meter, which I think they stopped making last year in 2011 or so? Some have speculated this might signal the demise of the GT, while others feel perhaps it's just the fact that there are already so many meters out there for Sovereigns that work or people can pretty easily make one using a volt meter. Even still, many Sovereign guys prefer not to use a meter because of it's rich audio and like hunting "old style" like that, and still yet others do a lot of dry beach or water hunting with it and a meter is not really needed on the beach most of the time and should not be risked using in the water.

The DigiSearch was the first meter made by Minelab to use the 180 scale after they saw how the public liked that scale on other meters I guess from other companies. Far as I know the Digisearch meter first showed up for the GT, and in fact the Elite was using the last version of their 550 meters?

Since I've got a ton of time on my hands today :biggrin: for various reasons, I'll next try to dig up the analog meters that were sold at one time for the Sovereign. Some guys who cut their teeth on analog machines of yesterday prefer the analog meters you could get for the Sovereign. I prefer digital myself. Analog needles have a lag time while waiting for them to move when working heavy trash, and not as much resolution as a digital meter where you can see a one digit change in targets where that's a hard thing to do with an analog meter.
 
A bit of info I dug up about the two versions of the Winburn meter, the Avenger and the Night Hawk, both of which used the 180 scale. This first quote (and pics below) are about the Avenger model. The differences between it and the Nighthawk (from what they are saying below) is that the Avenger needed a 9V battery to power it because it didn't draw it's power from the Sovereign, but that the Nighthawk version drew it's power from the Sovereign and only needed a 9V if you wanted to use the night light. The other differences were that the Avenger had the adjustment pot inside it to calibrate to 180 on a dime or quarter while the Nighthawk version had an external pot from what I gather from these posts...

Ron from Michigan said:
This 180 meter has no external adjustment.There is a on and off power switch on the side of the meter.Also requires one nine volt battery for power.The mounting bracket is nice and gives the user a great view of the ID screen. After the back plate is removed a small screw driver is needed to adjust the pot inside the meter.

MonDak said:
I have a Winburn, it really works good. Once you adjust it to 180, it never needs readjustment.
But it has a problem, on hot or sunny days the screen goes black and you can't read it.

Ron from Michigan said:
Mondak,my Winburn Nighthawk had the same problem in summer on a bright sunny day I would have to search in shade so I could see the meter.I could search for 5 to 10 minutes before I lost the screen and then in the shade that amount of time to recover.Would a screen cover work?So your saying the Avenger holds its adjustment and the external knob is no big deal.Thanks Ron

MonDak said:
Ron
A screen cover would help for the sunlight problem, but not the ambient temperature.
When I got mine it read about 3 points lower than it should have. I took the cover off
and adjusted it correctly. I have'nt had to readjust it since and that was about
2 years ago.

Ron from Michigan said:
Joe,Winburn manufactured these 180 meters and like the Sunray meters these are difficult to find.I used the Winburn Nighthawk for a couple of seasons which didn't require a battery had an outside adjustment knob and even a night light.Again after looking for another 180 meter the Sunray was my first choice,but found the Avenger and it works great.Thanks Ron

The below pics are from Ron's first quote above of the Avenger version, which had an internal POT adjustment and required a 9V to run, while the Nighthawk version only needed a 9V if you wanted to use the new added backlight and instead drew it's regular meter power from the Sovereign. The Nighthawk version also had an external adjustment pot instead of the internal one on the Avenger from all I gather above.
 
Old California said:
Had forgotten about the Sun Ray DTI II meter until the other day going through a box of detector parts searching for something else, Several years ago converted my old Sovereign into a waterproof detector going meter less so wasn't using a meter anymore with the old Sovereign.

Hooked up to my GT and she still works! Brought back memories of using the 180 meter, Seems like yesterday.

Does anyone know the difference between the Sun Ray DTI II and DTI III or was there ever a DTI III?, Can't remember been away from using a Sov meter too long wasn't until recently picked up a GT for a Patriot meter.

Any information greatly appreciated.
Paul (Ca)

Rick(ND) said:
Hi Paul,

Good to see you are using a Sovereign again and you are using the best model too.
On the DTI 2 there were actually 2 different one, the first one had a nylon calibration control and many had a problem with them as it was easy to turn them too far and break them and had to be sent in and had the metal ones put on. The second one came with the metal one and never heard of any problem with them at all. The last DTI meter Sun Ray made was the DTI 3 which had the back light in it and the mount was a bit different as if I remember right sat back toward the operator and was metal instead of the fiberglass or what ever it was. The DTI 3 had a button you push to turn the light on and would say on for 90 seconds and then it would go off to save the 9 volt battery that was mounted inside the meter and got to easy when it needed changed. The light would not work if the detector was off as it had to be on for the switch to work to turn it on. Rick

Rick(ND) said:
The Sun Ray and the Minelab meter used the battery of the detector control box for power and don't use a extra battery for the meter, but the DTI 3 of Sun Ray uses a battery for the back light. I was told that the first one made by Sun Ray may have had a battery in it, but never seen one myself since 1996 when I first started using a Sovereign.
 
I remember hearing some blurbs elsewhere about the Patriot meter below having some kind of "iron sentry" type setting you could turn on or off as well as a few other "unique" features not seen on other meters? Not sure what the iron sentry thing would be useful for as the Sovereign ignores iron for the most part and will show a negative number for it on all the meters I'm aware of? Also, I think this meter had a night light because I saw reference to people loving it for night hunting. I'll try to dig up more on that down the road as I'm starting to suffer research burn out today with all this meter searching. It was by far the most expensive meter I think for the Sovereign at I think around $300 maybe, but some guys swore by it. Probably analog lovers who just thirst for an analog meter, but again I saw blurbs about it also having some other unique features. Either way, too burned out to dig that up right now. :biggrin:

If anybody knows of any meters I've missed please post a pic and a brief discrimination or at least a link to a thread on it. I *think* there were one or two other analog meters out there for the Sovereign by third parties? Anybody? Anyway, here's a bit on the Patriot. I found much more in my searching on it but I'm just too burned out dig through that stuff today. Maybe tomorrow, and then I'll search and see if there are any other meters I'm missing, or perhaps pics of the various Sunray versions where as I think the prior message just had a pic of the DII version.

Old California said:
Here's a picture of the Patriot meter on the GT handle, the Patriot meter did come with a connector that fastens the meter to the handle portion above the foam grip but instead went with a different connection.

Instead of using the connector went directly from the meter to the upper portion of the handle, drilled out a hole through the top handle and used a nut & bolt to fasten the meter to the handle.

Paul (Ca)
 
A bit more info from Rick on various meters...

Rick(ND) said:
As far as Minelab meters the new one made for the GT that is the 180 meter is the best one Minelab has made and to me work the best. Now Sun Ray used to make a meter for the Sovereign call the DTI 2 and DTI 3 meter that many of us love, but hard to find anymore as they are not being made anymore. There were other meters being made but the Sun Rays and the new 180 meter Minelab makes seem to be the ones that worked out the best. Another meter I forgot about was a meter called a Nighthawk that also seem to be a great meter too. There was a analog meter too being made that was expensive, but didn't work as good for me and many while some loved them. I think you will find the new Minelab 180 meter the best new one you can get, but used the Sun Ray,Minelab 180 or the Nighthawk is your best choice.

Rick
 
Enough researching for the day on meters but figured I'd post a little overview of the Sovereign's VDI and what makes it so special, along with a few VDI response tips to judge targets by...

First some unique things about it...I'm not aware (?) of any other machine on the market that has an adjustment to tune it's VDI to various coils used on a detector. If anybody knows of another machine that does this let me know? Anyway, the perks to being able to do that is that when changing coils there is a risk of a machine's VDI being slightly "off" in terms of the proper VDI # for a specific target. By tuning a Sovereign meter to 180 over a dime or quarter you've fine tuned the machine to give the same ID on targets with each coil you use. That's one of the reasons why I trust the VDI on the Sovereign more than any machine I've personaly used.

Second, some believe the meter reads the VDI from the coil. It does not. The Sovereign processes the target's signal and then sends a voltage based on the conductivity of the target back down via the coil cable to the meter. I think this is based on a 2 volt scale or so. Because this VDI isn't processed heavily for say display in unique ways on a screen like on some other detectors with heavy processing, I also trust what this machine is saying to me more than any other for that reason too. It's a more "pure" report of the target's conductivity to me and nothing is lost in translation through layers of software or special display processing.

Another perk to this is that the VDI is also very "instant". What you hear you instantly see the VDI for on the meter. There is no "lag" between hearing the target and then seeing it's potential ID on the screen. Some peoples have so much software or electronics layered between the audio and VDI processing that the output of audio and VDI is out of sync on them. Usually the VDI lags behind the audio, so for that reason on some machines they will tell you to ignore the VDI and listen to the audio because the VDI can be saying one thing and the audio another. Paying attention to the audio first and foremost is still a good idea on the Sovereign, but not for the same reasons. For instance, if you hear a whisper of a high coin tone mixed in trash it might be so quick that even the great instant VDI on the Sovereign can't stabilize the number on the screen and show it long enough for you to catch that whisper of a high tone mixed in the junk. As fast as the VDI is on the Sovereign, much faster than even some "fast" response machines I've owned and in fact probably more "instant" than any machine I've owned, audio should always be your first and foremost hint to a target. Yes, this is a slow machine but you'll be shocked at how "instant" the VDI response is on a Sovereign.

You'll find that foil usually (from memory) starts around 40 to 60 or so on the 180 meters. Iron will read in the negative number range. In terms of resolution another thing that makes the Sovereign's VDI so special is it's got super high resolution from foil all the way up to copper pennies. I'm not aware (?) of any other machine on the market with such a high resolution in that conductivity range, making it real handy for say digging gold rings or relics while avoiding specific common trash numbers at a site like a specific tab or tabs present there while digging all other numbers. Combine this high resolution with the excellent telling audio of the Sovereign (very long and drawn out) and the numerous alert tones, and you can see why it's a favorite among some gold ring hunters. This machine (like other Minelabs) is not very sensitivity to fine gold like thin chains, but in terms of gold rings (even super thin ones) it's pretty much as deep as it gets in a VLF machine for finding them. The excellent analog-like detailed audio also is a good way to avoid a bunch of trash. Anyway, back to the VDI thing...There are some machines that have "2D" discrimination, based on a ferrous and a conductivity scale. However, the conductivity range is rather limited. On one machine's 0 to 50 conductivity scale copper pennies start at about 38, so you can compare that to the roughly 40 (or so) starting point for foil on the Sovereign all the way up to about 178 or 180 for a copper penny and you can see a lot of fine detail resolution in that range of conductivity on targets to really split some hairs on stuff. For example, if you note and avoid a few pesky specific tab numbers on the Sovereign and dig everything else you won't be blocking out a wide range of potential good targets, where as on a machine with less resolution in conductivity you would be blocking out a more broad range of targets but avoiding a few tab numbers.

I feel this is one of the strongest strengths of the Sovereign and it's VDI for ring or relic hunting, or for certain old coins that range down the scale. You can dig targets 1 digit off of that pesky tab present at a site and might find a lot of good stuff that way. Not only that, but this machine is also the most "sure bet" I've owned for nickles. They are distinctly several digits below the start of the lowest tab range (rare exceptions to this, but very rare), so you can easily avoid tabs and most other junk and still dig a ton of nickles. Also handy for old coin hunting where you want to avoid most trash but are willing to take a chance on an old nickle as it's probably a sure thing, and in fact might come up with a gold ring even though you were just out for coins. I've dug a ton of nickles, old and new, at pounded out sites with this machine. More so than any other I've owned. And, the nickle sound is very distinct and lower than tabs, so by sound alone it will get your attention. The VDI resolution is just icing on the cake for nickle hunts. Also, because the nickle zone is so well defined with high resolution you'll avoid most junk that reads a hair or more below it, where as on other machines with less resolution you'd have much more lower reading junk like foil and higher reading junk like tabs that are included in that machine's wider "nickle zone" due to it's less distinct resolution.

When I'm being particular about what to dig one of the VDI tricks is to watch the VDI was you short sweep or wiggle (which should be done to derive the best ID out of the target) over something. Is the VDI # changing by more than 2 digits? If not, change your angle by 90 degrees and short sweep or wiggle over it again. Has it changed from the original one or two VDI #'s that the first angle gave? Then chances are it's not a round object, and thus is not a coin, ring, old button, token, or some other round good find. When I'm being particular I will wiggle or short sweep over it from one angle and if it doesn't change by more than two digits, and also doesn't from another angle, then I'll dig it. Not saying some round good finds can't change by 3 digits or more, but that more often than not those targets are odd shaped trash by my experience. Also, let's say it reads 144 and 145 from one angle, then reads 145 and 146 from another. Even though it didn't change by 3 digits or more from any two angles, it did change by 3 in total from those two angles...144, 145, and 146. Here again it's *probably* odd shaped trash but I usually dig those. It's when it roams by 3 digits or more from one angle I'll walk when I'm being picky, but even still if I'm extra picky if it changes by a total of 3 digits or more when the two angles are summed up then I'll walk on those too. Hope you see what I mean here...If it says 144, 145, and 146 or more from one angle I'll walk. If it says 144 and 145 from that angle but doesn't read 144 OR 145 from 90 degrees, but instead reads like 145 and 146 from the next then I'll still bet money it's junk, but it could be a nickle or a ring. You'll get an unspoken feel for what target IDs vary too much from various angles to find out what is usually trash or what is round. Also, you've got to continue your short sweeping or wiggling over the target to try to stabilize the ID to judge this. If you are being lazy and not constantly wiggling or short sweeping then by default the ID can get unreliable. You are trying to pull the best ID out of it and if it fights you and wanders by 3 or more, or changes from the first 2 numbers to 2 others when you switch 90 degrees then bet on it being trash probably.

Far as all coins above copper pennies being 180 on the meter, I don't think of that as a big deal to me. I've owned machines with high coin resolution and they can make a coin look junky due to the unstability of the machine trying to reason out which percise conductivity number they fall on as the differences are very close on many coins from copper penny and above. Strangely, despite the high resolution of the Sovereign in the low and mid range, I don't find it's VDI "floaty" or unstable at all. Very rock solid, but in terms of high resolution on coins they are so close that on other machines I've owned it can make them seem like bad targets. Also, when I am old coin hunting if the coin is deep or even shallow but in trash then I just want to know it's a coin, because those two factors could make one coin read like another and make it harder for me to decide it's really a coin as it's fighting the depth or trash and ranging wildy. Besides, I've dug plenty of silvers that read like clads or even as wheats for some odd reason. Depth, nearby trash, being on edge, the coin being worn a bit, the ground being real dry...All of these things can make one coin read like another. A bigger net catches more fish in a sense, so I just want to know it's a coin when out for the old stuff. I feel that wider "net" catches more coins that I might otherwise pass on thinking they are too unstable and thus junk or are hiding as looking like some other coin. The only coins I really want to ID are zincs to avoid those when say clad hunting and trying to rack up fast clad totals. The Sovereign can easily ID zincs as they read below 180, so that's all I really care for when wanting to be particular about what coins I'm digging.

One final VDI related tip...A trick I use on the Digisearch meter is to notice the negative number the machine displays when it resets. This is easy to notice as the machine will reset it's threshold to the stock tone. You can often make it do this by thumbing the coil on the ground and it's easier to do with sensitivity running high. Hold the coil still and look at the negative number displayed. At least on my Digisearch meter if it's calibrated to go 180 on a dime or quarter the negative number will be -506. For this reason I never use a coin to calibrate mine. I just adjust the negative number to -506 when the machine resets. If I look down and see that number after it resets I know it's still set right to go 180 on a coin above a copper penny.
 
You have got to check out this picture tour somebody made walking down memory lane of various Sovereign accessories (stands, etc), remote PP switches, aftermarket meters, home made meters, various meter mounting methods, and other such unique accessory or mod ideas. Very cool...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41469816@N00/sets/72157626545872106/show/

Some aftermarket meters (such as Ron's) use their own mounting method so you can pretty much mount them anyway. Others, like all the Minelab made meters, require the V-clip bracket to mount on, which on the GT is found down past your hand grip on the shaft. This mounting location is ridiculous. It wasn't a problem with older S-rod Sovereign shafts where the hand grip was recessed from blocking the view of the meter, but with the straight shaft on the GT all the Minelab made meters are hard to see since they don't stand up. There are aftermarket plastic V-clip stands that snap onto the shaft's V-clip and then the Minelab meter mounts on top of that so it's raised above the hand grip for easier viewing. There is also a plastic V-clip stand out there that mounts the meter to the side of the shaft for easier viewing, but I don't think I'd prefer that myself. And, of course, the aftermarket meters stand up anyway so even if you mount them in that location they are easy to see above the grip.

Still others have modded the Minelab meters mounting location by drilling the V-clip rivets out and then mounting the V-clip on a copper pipe hangar ($2 at a home improvement store) using two flat head screws so that they will clear the meter when it's slid onto the V-clip. You can then mount the meter high on the pipe hangar's strap to clear the grip, or like I did you can mount the meter right on top of the grip via that pipe hanger. This can be done even with the stock grip easily, but it's even easier to do if you are using a bike end bar as your grip. I use one because it's much more comfortable than the stock grip, and also allows easier mounting of the meter that way. I feel mounting the meter above your grip is the best looking and easiest to see way to have the meter. Ron's meter comes with one of these pipe hangers already on it so it's real easy to grip mount it.

If anybody has any further pictures of ideas for varios meter mounting methods please post them. I'll get around to posting a few pics of how I have the Digisearch meter mounted on my GT too.
 
As posted on page 2, the first Minelab 550 meter (which was more unstable than later 550 models) that came out at the time of the XS2 can be seen in the pic below. Does anybody have any pictures of the second (and I think last?) Minelab 550 meter that came out later that was said to be more stable (but many still found it's scaling too unstable and prefered converting it as well to the 180 scale)? Not sure when it came out but I think the more stabile second 550 meter was already out long before the release of the Elite from the sound of it, or maybe was only released when the Elite came out?

I'm not sure but the second picture posted below might be the second 550 meter and it was called a "DigiScan" I think? Notice it's color is different than the 180 Digisearch meter but I'm not sure if this pic is of the DigiScan or is just a pic with funky photo colors of the Digisearch 180 meter. Not even sure if the "DigiScan" was the later more stabile 550 meter, or if it was just an early name for the Digisearch 180 meter as the first version of the 180 meter that came out at the release time of the GT?

In fact, not sure if there is a DigiScan meter and that the last 550 meter was not called that and there was never an early version of the 180 meter either called that. Just saw somebody mention a DigiScan meter but maybe they were talking about the DigiSearch meter and named it wrong? I just saw this second pic below and thought...Is that just a 180 Digisearch but with bad photo coloring, or is it an early version of the 180 meter called the Digiscan, or is it the second more stable version of the 550 meter and was called a Digiscan? I can't tell by the photo what the name is on it, but the guy referenced it as the Digiscan meter.

Also, I've already posted the Sun Ray DTI II meter pic this thread. Does anybody have any DTI or DTI III pics? I think they look very similar though anyway. And if anybody has any of the Windburn Avenger II or Nighthawk models pics to post too please do. I only posted the original Avenger's which I assume is the AV1 people were calling it, but that photo doesn't say AV1. Oh, I should mention that all three of the Winburns are said to suffer from the screen going blank in the sun. I think I only said two of them did in the meter overview message a few messages ago.
 
This is a Sovereign user from European on youtube so I'm not sure if this Minelab meter is called a DTI in the US but that's what he calls it. I thought the first Sun Rays were called DTI meters, but you can see it looks like the Digisearch 180 Minelab meter except for the name on the face. I'm sure the Minelab meter here in the US prior to the 180 Digisearch is the same meter, even if it's called something else. Anybody know if it was called something else here? I know Minelab had at least two 550 meters before the Digisearch meter, and the first one was said to be less stable than the second 550 meter they made. Even with the more stable second Minelab 550 meter (which I would think is the one shown in the video), most prefered to convert it to a 180 meter due to further stability, and 180 resolution still is higher than any other machine I'm aware of on the market in terms of target conductivity from foil all the way up to copper penny. The conversion involves a couple of resistors and a POT change. Good video as it also shows how to get into the meter as well.

(Digging up the link...Give me time...)

OK, I lost part of the front of the link when I copied it and I don't feel like digging it back up, but if you copy it (below) and paste into the top of your window and press enter it'll take you to it anyway.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mxmUHm5qwU
 
Just watched this video all the way through. A few notes, first, here's the intact link...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mxmUHm5qwU

Second, if you watch the video to the end they tell you what K resistors and POT to replace with written text at the end of the video. They had bought the "kit" off the web but really you only need to know what K the two resistors and POT are to replace to do it on your own to convert an old 550 Minelab meter to a 180 one.

Third, I noticed he was using a solder wick to suck up the solder to remove the old resistors and POT. While that's handy if you have it, truth be known I've down extensive soldering for years and never used a solder wick to suck up/remoave old solder. I just will put pressure on one end of the part I'm removing and then put soldering iron heat on that end of the part I'm trying to remove. Once the solder heats up that end will pop out if you've got proper leverage on it with a screwdriver or something.

Finally, and this is for ANYBODY with ANY Sovereign meter from ANY company...If you can't seem to calibrate the meter to the proper number (180 for a 180 meter or 550 for a 550 meter), then you need to take it apart and adjust the coarse pot on the circuit board. As you notice in the video, before calibrating it with the external knob POT control they adjust it to 180 on an internal circuit board coarse pot via a screwdriver. To do this you first set the external pot control about mid way through it's adjustment range. Then calibrate the internal pot to go 180 as close as you can (or 550 if you are still using an old non-converted meter). Then, once the internal pot is set, you can fine tune via the external POT. By setting the external POT mid way through it's travel, you are insuring enough adjustment left/right wise to set it properly once the internal one is set as close as possible.

For this reason, I have read of some meter users in the past who couldn't get their meter to adjust to the proper number of 180 (or 550 on an old non-converted meter) to a clad dime or quarter. It's because you need to center the external pot and then adjust the internal one to as close to that as possible if not right on. Then fine adjustments can be made with the external one.

Also, this is a handy trick for meters who develop a dead spot with the external POT adjustment. The more pots are adjusted the harder they are to tune as they develop dead spots. By moving the internal POT a bit in adjustment you'll move the external POT's adjustment a bit on where it needs to be to say go 180 on a clad dime or higher, and thus make it much easier to adjust the external POT on hunts by being away from the dead spot.

For that reason, I have told people to never play with the external POT until the machine has warmed up for several minutes. Chances are once warmed up it will read 180 on a clad dime or higher without playing with it, but if you keep screwing with the external POT you can wear dead spots into the POT. If you haven't bumped the external POT then chances are it will calibrate fine once the machine reaches "steady state". If after say 10 minutes or so of warmup you find it extremely hard to adjust to 180 on the external pot, you've got a dead spot there. When that happens it might be worth opening the meter and tweaking the internal POT a hair left or right, and then the external POT will calibrate to 180 easier since it's not riding on the same dead spot. Just make sure to center the external POT somewhat before playing with the internal one. Get the internal one as close to 180 (or 550 on an old non-converted meter) as possible and then you should be good to go with final calibration on the external one as needed.

You might think to yourself..."These Sovereign meters sound kind of primative." Nope, don't think that. The Sovereign processes the conductive nature of a target inside the control box and then sends a voltage level (on I think a 2V scale) back down the coil cable to the meter to read. There are benefits. The VDI isn't sent through layers of processing as is on other machines, so you get a very "instant" VDI # on the Sovereign compared to even much faster machines. There is no lag between the audio and what the VDI is telling you as compared to even much faster machines, and because the VDI isn't sent through layers of processing it's a more "true" representation of the targets conductivity than on machines I've used with more "enhanced" VDI displays. In fact, as slow as the Sovereign is, I find it's VDI not only more trusting, but also more "instant" with no lag when wiggling between targets than the fast machines I've owned. Without naming names, some machines will say one thing in audio while the VDI says something else. That's why many say to pay attention to the audio on some machines and not the VDI. Not as true on the Sovereign, but just the same audio should always be your first choice as to whether to dig or not, regardless of what the VDI is doing. Having said that, I trust the VDI on this machine more than any other I've owned.
 
Meter Mounting Methods On Top Of Grip And Such. The one with the blue Minelab meter uses a $2 copper pipe hanger as discussed in the thread. Simple and easy and can be used to mount on grip as well by attaching the stock V-clip meter mount to the pipe hangar with two flat head screws. Just cut down the length of the pipe hanger strap to the length needed and then the pipe hanger's round clamp just clamps onto the grip at the top, or can be used to mount the meter on the shaft standing high or something for easy viewing too. The yellow meter in the first pic is using a different mounting method than the pipe hanger used for the yellow and blue meters in second pic...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1156230,1156664#msg-1156664
 
There should be numerous 180 meter charts in this sticky on the first page or so. Take the text and just paste into Paint and shrink or what have you, or you can also capture the picture format of my chart I made in those links and shrink/skew/whatever with paint to the size you want. I keep mine on a piece of cardboard taped over with clear duct tape to protect it from rain/mud and carry it in my holster with my digging tools so I can grab it to refresh my memory on stuff when needed. Maybe somebody will also post you a ready to print/tape chart on your meter from one of the several charts linked to too? I think there was one chart that was small and printed out to tape to just about any meter like Ron's that stood up too like the old Sun Ray meters too, but I don't know if I posted a link to that thread maybe? If you need further help and nobody helps you out and you can't capture/shrink a smaller chart to put on his meter then send me a PM and I'll whip one up in Paint for you, and then I'll also post it here for people ready to print/tape to the face of a meter. My custom chart is a compilation of them all and with my added VDI target stuff that I scanned on things like common trash, but it's probably too tall even shrunk to tape onto Ron's meter, so I'll dig up the shorter charts and do that for you if you don't find a way or get a response/link from somebody else...
 
I found one of your charts that is incredibly detailed and covers a tremendous range. I'll do like you did and print it then tape on cardboard, thanks again.
 
Got this in a PM today, and this isn't the first time I've been asked this or seen the question come up in the forum, so I think it'd be useful in this sticky. Message has been edited for clearity....

Name Withheld said:
I needed to get a few extra parts for mounting that meter (One of Minelab's meters). I got the meter, then discovered that I didn't have the v-bracket (on the shaft) to mount it to the shaft. I got the v-bracket then realized I didn't have screws, so I ordered them. Instead of screws I got pop rivets in the mail which apparently is the proper way to mount the bracket. Problem is that I don't have a pop rivet gun. SO then I ordered a pop rivet gun. Now I am waiting on the pop rivet gun.

I had heard that some shafts didn't come with the V-clip. But strangely some do and some don't. You don't need rivets. You can use flat headed screws to mount the V-clip on the shaft in it's stock position where the holes are already existing for the v-clip/rivets, as flat head screws will allow the meter to clear them and slide onto the v-clip.

Also, if you are using one of Minelab's meters don't mount the meter on the shaft below the grip in it's stock position. Impossible to see and I really wonder what Minelab was thinking when they could have just made a v-clip that would pop right on to the top of the hand grip for the same exact cost I'm sure.

Here's what you do...Go up to your local home improvement store and look for pipe hangers for like $2. I used one made from copper but there are various types. They have a mounting bracket that has two thumb screws or regular screws (depending on which you buy) to clamp it on the shaft like it's made for it, and it has a long strap with holes in it.

Take that hanger and clamp it onto the top of your grip, right around the grip but up near the top to clear your hand. Bend the mounting strap up and over the top of the grip. Take your V-clip and mark it's two rivet/screw holes onto the strap where you want it to sit (right above the grip resting on it is best). Drill the two holes in the strap, then cut off the excess strap. Now use two flat head screws to screw the v-clip onto the mounting strap. Slide the meter onto the V-clip, plug the coil into the meter and then the meter into the control box and you're all set!

Having the meter above the grip is the only way to fly with the stock meter. There are some plastic Sovereign meter mounts that mount the Minelab made meters down the shaft past the grip but off to the side of the shaft so you're hand grip isn't blocking it, but mounting above the hand grip is the best like any normal metal detector should be. Some do however prefer the meter down the shaft closer to the coil as they find it easier to watch the meter and also watch how they are using the coil while working at a target.

Other aftermarket meters that stand up high are fine mounted right on the shaft past the grip like at or near the stock position as they stand up/are tall and so clear the grip for easier viewing down the shaft. Ron's meter is like this, and his like some other meters even has they're own mounting bracket so you don't need the V-clip in the first place. It will mount on the shaft anywhere you want it, or on top of your grip too by just bending the mounting bracket I think.

Here are a few pics of the pipe hanger I used and it mounted to my GT using the Minelab Digisearch meter. As said, with some non-Minelab meters like Ron's (last pic) no need to use a v-clip, as they already feature the ability to mount the meter on the shaft or grip without a v-clip...

PS- In these pics you can see my remote pin point switch hanging down, installed inside a bike end bar I cut down the length on and used for my grip. The pipe hanger and shaft were later painted as this was early on in my custom light weight shaft build. You can find further info on these meter mods, remote PP switch, or custom shafts by others and me in this huge thread in the modifications forum...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?22,1141218,page=1
 
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