1265-X & 1266-X Coils on a 1260-X

[MarkCZ]

Here's a pic. I don't have a manual and can't find one online.

Also, the pin arrangement isn't right either?

The 1220 and the 1260 connector on the control box should look like the picture below, the connector on the coil will have the half flat hollow with five male pins standing up in the hollow.

The other 1200's are basicly the same as far as the connector's go but they are reversed, but the pin arrangement should still have the same five pin layout as in my picture.

The picture below is of a coil connector on a coil for the 1266.

Mark

 

[MarkCZ]

This just in!

The below picture is of a coil connector for a Fisher F2!

Is it possible that somewhere along the way that somebody has replaced the connectors on the detector and the coil?

Mark

 

[Dave J.]

Here's a pic. I don't have a manual and can't find one online.

Ouch-- that's a problem. The first 1265's that came out used a plastic connector that looked like a good one, it passed qualification testing but as it turned out didn't hold up in the field. We had to switch back to the metal Switchcraft Slimline connectors that were the metal detector industry standard for so many years. And we weren't the only company that got bit-- Teknetics (the 1980's company in Oregon) tried the same connector and also had to abandon it.

The best fix is to switch the housing to the Slimline connector, but that involves some mechanical revisions since the connectors are different sizes and install differently. I doubt we even have the special pieces needed to make the conversion any more, that was about 25 years ago.

The next best fix is to find the mating connector, install that on the searchcoil cable, and treat it gently in hopes that it'll last a while before it fails. It's still being manufactured but I don't recall the manufacturer, think it was Amphenol or AMP (which may be same company?). It's probably in the Digikey, Mouser, and/or Allied catalog.

The metal detector business teaches a fellow in the business to regard connectors as a necessary evil. So many look like they should work, and yet so few actually do. Not even the Slimline is perfect.

--Dave J.

 

[MarkCZ]

Here's a pic. I don't have a manual and can't find one online.

Ouch-- that's a problem. The first 1265's that came out used a plastic connector that looked like a good one, it passed qualification testing but as it turned out didn't hold up in the field. We had to switch back to the metal Switchcraft Slimline connectors that were the metal detector industry standard for so many years. And we weren't the only company that got bit-- Teknetics (the 1980's company in Oregon) tried the same connector and also had to abandon it.

The best fix is to switch the housing to the Slimline connector, but that involves some mechanical revisions since the connectors are different sizes and install differently. I doubt we even have the special pieces needed to make the conversion any more, that was about 25 years ago.

The next best fix is to find the mating connector, install that on the searchcoil cable, and treat it gently in hopes that it'll last a while before it fails. It's still being manufactured but I don't recall the manufacturer, think it was Amphenol or AMP (which may be same company?). It's probably in the Digikey, Mouser, and/or Allied catalog.

The metal detector business teaches a fellow in the business to regard connectors as a necessary evil. So many look like they should work, and yet so few actually do. Not even the Slimline is perfect.

--Dave J.

So this is one of those plastic Twist & Lock connectors?
I've had three of those old Teknetics with those connectors on them (still have one) I NEVER had the first problem with them, Teknetics used that coil for a number of years!
My 9000/B
8500/B
and my Mark I had those connectors.
I've never seen a Fisher with one of though!

Mark

 

[MarkCZ]

Is this the connectors that is on your 1265? (I love these connectors, been working sense around 1983)

If so then I bet that Keith Wills at East Texas Detectors can get you some of the connectors and you can get somebody. or yourself to solder them on and you should be ready to go.
brokendetectors.com

Also, Keith told me that the Bounty Hunter push in connectors will plug right into the Twist & Lock type (They just won't lock)

Mark

 

[MarkCZ]

Here's a pic. I don't have a manual and can't find one online.

The manual for the 1266 will work for the 1265! the only difference is the push pull sensitivty control and the battery box uses different type of connectors and battery box lid latch is MUCH improved on the 1266.

Mark

 

[scratch]

Is this the connectors that is on your 1265? (I love these connectors, been working sense around 1983)

If so then I bet that Keith Wills at East Texas Detectors can get you some of the connectors and you can get somebody. or yourself to solder them on and you should be ready to go.
brokendetectors.com

Also, Keith told me that the Bounty Hunter push in connectors will plug right into the Twist & Lock type (They just won't lock)

Mark

That is exactly the connector that I have on my 1265x. Still works too, though it has a little slop in the connector from old age I guess. So I am going to assume that the guts of this detector are the same as the later models and run on the same frequency. I always thought I could use coils from the 1220-1260 series detectors because of the pin configuration but I guess I can't because of the frequency issue. I love this little machine and would hate to have it break and not be able to get it fixed. Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge in helping me with my early production run 1265x. You guys are the best.

 

[MarkCZ]

Is this the connectors that is on your 1265? (I love these connectors, been working sense around 1983)

If so then I bet that Keith Wills at East Texas Detectors can get you some of the connectors and you can get somebody. or yourself to solder them on and you should be ready to go.
brokendetectors.com

Also, Keith told me that the Bounty Hunter push in connectors will plug right into the Twist & Lock type (They just won't lock)

Mark

That is exactly the connector that I have on my 1265x. Still works too, though it has a little slop in the connector from old age I guess. So I am going to assume that the guts of this detector are the same as the later models and run on the same frequency. I always thought I could use coils from the 1220-1260 series detectors because of the pin configuration but I guess I can't because of the frequency issue. I love this little machine and would hate to have it break and not be able to get it fixed. Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge in helping me with my early production run 1265x. You guys are the best.

It would be VERY easy to make a short adapter cable that would connect to the control housing and the other end to connect to the more (standard) 1265, 1266, and 1270 coils!
I know Keith Wills is still making up twist & Lock teknetics extension cables, he also does repairs on older detectors, so I'm sure he could fix you up something.

Mark

 

[shooter]

gave you guys the patch cable fix a month or so ago in these posts

 

[MarkCZ]

gave you guys the patch cable fix a month or so ago in these posts

Shooter, did you ever have a Fisher with one of those "Twist & Lock" coil connectors? I do remember a topic about doing something with a connector on a Fisher detector, but I don't ever remember hearing or seeing a connector like this on ANY Fisher?

Mark

 

[shooter]

Nope never did my 1265X has the screw type, and the patch cable I made was a 555-D extension cable I had from my hip mount.Pin out should be the same replace it for the coil you need to use.

 

[scotrod]

shooter my friend bought 11 inch coil for his 1220x pro the pins all seem to line up but when connected nothing happens doesn't seem to make contact is there a difference between the 1220x pro and the 1220x key word being pro any help in this matter would be great thanks