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Will someone please call a priest, I think I'm cursed :help:

Dan(NM)

Well-known member
I had to send in my CTX this past week due to touch pad issues, fortunately it's still under warranty. The repair guys get the CTX and tells me everything's working just fine, but, they are going to replace the touch pad because I did a video of the problem and they saw what was going on. Fast forward...I bought a used Explorer II to use while my CTX is out of commission. I get it yesterday and last night fire it up to make sure everything is working properly. No problems, machine if functioning as it should, so.....I go thru the menu and make all the adjustments to get this bad boy ready to hunt this weekend. Looking good, everything is set, then......I press the iron mask button, nothing :confused: press it again and again notta. I try to go back into the menu, nothing happening there :veryangry: I'm thinking, no way this is happening. Hit the noise cancel button, dead as a door knob :rant: I went thru all the other buttons they work fine. So, I decided to do pull the battery and do a master reset. About the time it finishes, I think, what if I can't get back in to make any adjustments, too late, the damage is done, I lost all my setting and I still have dead buttons. So, I'm stuck with the start up settings, but, at least I can adjust sensitivity, threshold and the smart screen. I get a hold of the guy and fortunately he offers to do whatever it takes to make things right. Well, while I was waiting for the Ex2 to arrive, I come across a video of a guy replacing the face plate because his buttons quit working on his machine. The seller has agreed to pay for a new face plate and I'll do the fix myself. What are the odds of having 2 machines malfunction in the same way in the same week. Go figure :rage:
 
Dan -- WOW. And, ironically, my SE Pro flaked out this morning!! I think Minelab must be doing this to us on purpose, to make us all have to purchase an Equinox! Maybe (Star Wars reference here) they pre-programmed "order 66" into these things, and the Minelab "Emperor" just executed order 66, and all of our machines are responding to the order -- their sinister sales plan for the Equinox! :stretcher: LOL!

I know, it's not funny. I'm not happy about this either; I have a trip to the beach planned starting this coming Friday, and it looks like I will be without a machine to use... :veryangry:

Do let us know how your repair experience with Minelab goes, on your CTX, and how your "face plate replacement" goes with your EX 2.

Steve
 
sgoss66 said:
Dan -- WOW. And, ironically, my SE Pro flaked out this morning!! I think Minelab must be doing this to us on purpose, to make us all have to purchase an Equinox! Maybe (Star Wars reference here) they pre-programmed "order 66" into these things, and the Minelab "Emperor" just executed order 66, and all of our machines are responding to the order -- their sinister sales plan for the Equinox! :stretcher: LOL!

I know, it's not funny. I'm not happy about this either; I have a trip to the beach planned starting this coming Friday, and it looks like I will be without a machine to use... :veryangry:

Do let us know how your repair experience with Minelab goes, on your CTX, and how your "face plate replacement" goes with your EX 2.

Steve

Ya gotta laugh :) But when it's happening, it really sux! I'll keep everyone up to speed on the new repair center's turn around time.
 
Dan,just one other thing...try taking the coil completely off the machine and fire it up. Does it still malfunction?
 
IDXMonster said:
Dan,just one other thing...try taking the coil completely off the machine and fire it up. Does it still malfunction?[/quote

I did everything, coil off, battery out all night, reset and I even tried a warm rag on the touch pads to see if I could get them to.... well....whatever :) Buttons are toasted.
 
Dan two things you can try...

1. Open the control box, remove the membrane switch button pad connector from the circuit board (it just pushes in/out), gently clean the contacts with a pencil eraser then reseat it and test.

2. Pull the battery and let it sit for several hours to overnight so the caps on the circuit boards drain completely then retest.

I dissected the button pad once mapping out the traces (yes I really need to get a life lol). If memory serves there are 13 contacts at the circuit board. The membrane switch button pad connects 2 of these 13 pins together momentarily telling the Explorer which button was pressed. So if you press say the Start button that may connect pins 2 and 12, the Iron Mask button may connect pin 3 and 7 and so on. Some pins are shared, say pin 5 it may be used by 3 of the buttons connecting say 3 to 4 for one button, 3 to 8 for another button, etc.

Since this is just a switch closing you can test the membrane switch button pad with a simply multi-meter using its continuity test. When a button is pressed, it should connect 2 of the 13 pins. Obviously remove the battery, press one of the buttons that's working, using your test leads locate the two pins 1-13 that button activates at the circuit board. Repeat for the rest of the buttons mapping out which buttons activate which pins. Of the buttons that are not working is there a pattern, one of the shared pins taking out all of those buttons? If so focus your attention on that contact in terms of cleaning.
 
Charles (Upstate NY) said:
Dan two things you can try...

1. Open the control box, remove the membrane switch button pad connector from the circuit board (it just pushes in/out), gently clean the contacts with a pencil eraser then reseat it and test.

2. Pull the battery and let it sit for several hours to overnight so the caps on the circuit boards drain completely then retest.

I dissected the button pad once mapping out the traces (yes I really need to get a life lol). If memory serves there are 13 contacts at the circuit board. The membrane switch button pad connects 2 of these 13 pins together momentarily telling the Explorer which button was pressed. So if you press say the Start button that may connect pins 2 and 12, the Iron Mask button may connect pin 3 and 7 and so on. Some pins are shared, say pin 5 it may be used by 3 of the buttons connecting say 3 to 4 for one button, 3 to 8 for another button, etc.

Since this is just a switch closing you can test the membrane switch button pad with a simply multi-meter using its continuity test. When a button is pressed, it should connect 2 of the 13 pins. Obviously remove the battery, press one of the buttons that's working, using your test leads locate the two pins 1-13 that button activates at the circuit board. Repeat for the rest of the buttons mapping out which buttons activate which pins. Of the buttons that are not working is there a pattern, one of the shared pins taking out all of those buttons? If so focus your attention on that contact in terms of cleaning.

Charles, your a lifesaver:clapping: I opened the control box after I removed the battery, separated all the circuit boards, disconnected the face plate, then put it all back together. Everything is working as it should, thanks for the advise!!
 
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