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Who prefers to NOT use the digital meter with their Sovereign GT.

JASONSPAZ1

New member
Years ago when I had a Sovereign XS-2A it had a meter as part of the package I purchased. I only used the meter for a short period of time and then sold it. I sold the meter since I felt that I am a tone type of guy.
My first real detector was a Tesoro Royal Saber that had the three tones which I thought was great. After that I got a Fisher CZ6a and never looked at the meter and just went by the tones. Now that the winter is coming and the gears start to turn in my head I find myself wondering if I should get the digital meter for my current Sovereign GT. However I get the feeling that it would be a waste of $$ since I have become pretty good at telling what a target is by the tones of my SOV GT. So my question is this does anyone prefer to NOT use the target id meter with their Sovereign GT.

Thanks in advance
HH
Jason
 
I think that if you have already learned the tones , it's sort of redundant ......I was not completely there yet as far as learning my tones, but I got pretty good at it adn sold the meter .... I found that the numbering scale on the Sovereign was such that most of the coins hit in the high tones anyway , and the Gold hit in the lower tone range .... I sold my meter and was then able to use the money for other endevors ....For the price of those things, you could buy yourself a new coil that would help you a lot more than the meter would ...... I'm glad that I had the meter to start out with though ..... It was a HUGE help to learn the tones .... Jim
 
When I'm obviously wading in the water up to my waist I'm not using a meter, and the control box is chest mounted too. On the beach hunting the dry sand even though I'm scooping every signal I still prefer to use a meter, as I feel it's good practice to learn what numbers and tones act like for specific targets. After all, many people find themselves scooping every signal on the beach so you get to see what all those "odd" numbers and tones are that you might otherwise stay away from on land. I've found that deep fringe coin signal practice with the meter/sound on the beach is a good tune up when old coin hunting on land. Some of the deep coins I've scooped on the beach acted very differenly due to fringe edge depth, orientation in the sand, or mineral content, so I know what to look for on land when going after those.

For land hunting I couldn't live without a meter. It's an added input tool to target traits. Very close VDI numbers within a few digits of each other there is no way I could hear the difference on and so the meter clues me off to subtle differences. Sure, there are some targets within a digit or two that you will hear the tone pitch differences in, but that's very dependent on where they happen to be on the scale for me. Something 152 and 154, for instance, I can't really tell the tones apart on. If a site is lousy with 152 number tabs then believe me I'll be digging any 151 or 153 numbers around it. There are other audio clues to differences between targets even with the exact same VDI number, but in terms of pitch difference between two very close numbers I need the meter to help me out on.

The meter on the Sovereign is tied very directly to what it outputs in audio, so as soon as you hear it you'll instantly see the number for it on the screen. In that sense this machine is much faster than even machines that have a much faster recovery speed. Many machines lag behind the audio with their VDI response. Take the Explorers for example. They seem about a split second or two behind the audio, which is just one of the reasons why most of those guys ignore the meter and pay attention to the audio. You can have two targets next to each other and the audio shows the difference but the meter is only fast enough to see the junk signal. Not so on the Sovereign. If you can hear it you WILL see it's VDI #. It's VDI also doesn't seem to degrade at depth until the very fringe edge of detection depth, unlike my Experience with my Explorers. For the most part if the GT can hear it it will give the proper ID, but if it's at that last edge of depth then the VDI might only try to climb and never make it to 180, but I'm talking the last 1/4th inch or so of outter fringe detection depth.

The other perk about the Sovereign meter is that it's pretty much the only machine that can calibrate it to both the coil you are using and the ground you are hunting, where as other machines can get off a bit due to a coil change or mineral content. Calibrate it on a buried dime while adjusting sensitivity for best depth and the ID is as true as it gets.
 
The meter allows me to see whats going on with a target along with the ability to hear the tone.When the digital number climbs only a couple of numbers I wouldn't hear the difference.Most important are the deep targets you need the meter to help lock on the target with the wiggle.Close blend targets are easier to pinpoint with the meter.I could save money not using headphones,probe,or a meter but all of these are needed tools to help with my search.Yea you need a meter for land hunting to get the most out of a Sovereign.
 
Jason
That's a tough question.
I have a meter on my GT. I like it on one hand and I do not like it on the other hand. I have really thought about putting a cover over it, but then again it's a two edged sword. I was reading a book by "C.J. Clynick" and he seemed to stand by using the meter. I would not sell or give up my meter,

But as Ron said "The meter allows me to see whats going on with a target along with the ability to hear the tone.When the digital number climbs only a couple of numbers I wouldn't hear the difference.Most important are the deep targets you need the meter to help lock on the target with the wiggle.Close blend targets are easier to pinpoint with the meter.I could save money not using headphones,probe,or a meter but all of these are needed tools to help with my search.Yea you need a meter for land hunting to get the most out of a Sovereign."

As Critterhunter said "When I'm obviously wading in the water up to my waist I'm not using a meter, and the control box is chest mounted too. On the beach hunting the dry sand even though I'm scooping every signal I still prefer to use a meter, as I feel it's good practice to learn what numbers and tones act like for specific targets. After all, many people find themselves scooping every signal on the beach so you get to see what all those "odd" numbers and tones are that you might otherwise stay away from on land. I've found that deep fringe coin signal practice with the meter/sound on the beach is a good tune up when old coin hunting on land. Some of the deep coins I've scooped on the beach acted very differently due to fringe edge depth, orientation in the sand, or mineral content, so I know what to look for on land when going after those."

As Synthnut said "It was a HUGE help to learn the tones ...."

I would have to say use it by all means.
I have learned to recognize tones on my Sovereign Gt, by watching the meter and digging everything. I can't say I have found more gold treasures than pull tabs.......practice I would say at this point if you want to get a meter buy one.
 
Perhaps I should give the meter a try again since my GT is my primary inland machine. I did not realize that the meter works instantly with the tones as much as you guys are saying it does ( no lag like in the Explorers). OK well here is another question. Does the Minelab meter fit securely on top of the Sunray probe control box? I notice that my Sunray probe control box has a V clip on the top so I assume that the Minelab digital meter slides nice and snug onto the probe control box. If it is not to much trouble can someone post a picture of Their Sovereign GT with the sunray probe control box with the Minelab meter stacked on top. I just want to see how it looks.
Thanks so much in advance guys
Take Care
HH
Jason
 
Sorry guys. I guess I should have done some online investigating before I cluttered the forum with my post. I just wanted to see how the digital meter looked on the pole assembly along with the Sunray probe

Thanks anyway:cheers:
HH
Jason
 
Jason,on a straight rod asm such as a GT you won't have the line of vision with the meter stacked on the probe.Example the two photos shows the probe box close to the handle so you can flip the switch without moving your hand off the grip.The meter is placed forward for a better line of sight mounted on a copper pipe hanger.The hanger can be bent or adjusted to your line of sight.Again stacked on a straight rod asm.is too low for line of sight for a straight shaft.The pipe hanger is $1.68 at Home Depot.
 
Thanks for the info Ron. How does the meter's v clip slot fit onto the pipe hanger?

Thanks in advance
Hh
Jason
 
That copper pipe hanger lasted me about a day! It got beat to heck. I ended up mounting the vclip directly to a bicycle handlegrip with a strip of 1/2" aluminum and nylon screws. So far so good with that.....
 
J,the V clip holes will line up with the last two holes on the hanger.Match with a couple of small screws and mount V clip.Very clean,sturdy and light.
 
What did you do. Take a picture of my Sovereign GT. :surprised: I better go look in the closet.
 
Yea, thanks to his tip on the copper pipe hangar I used one on my GT, mounted to the top of my grip which is a bike end bar. I hunt the woods a lot and have yet to have the mount fail on me. The beauty of it is it will allow you to bend/flex it into the perfect angle for viewing too.
 
YES YOU DO NEED TO LEARN THE TONES!!!!!
HOWEVER; due to having a meter I was able to pick out deeper coins on edge that can give a chirp or faint pitchy scratchy sound that my 550 meter said it was a coin between various junk. 550 flashed on my meter in one akward coil movement. I dug the trash Items and scanned that area again now I was able to swing the coil and get a repeatable tone, still at times its not repeatable but find it to be a coin anyway on edge again of course.
There are times when hunting zero disc. that other tones conceal the the faint tone of a deep coin! Thats why I always go back and cover the area again in the silver mode and found more coins that I did not hear due to over tones of other junk items. The silver mode has its place and the meter is a must on land sites for sure! I once dug a wheat penny that was an honest 11 inches deep with the 7.25 bbs coil using the wiggle the tone did climb slightly but the meter was able to hit the 550 mark on the right angles, so thats another reason for the meter. you need BOTH. TONE & SIGNAL strength using the wiggle.
TONE is key, but there are times that soft tone can be missed due to nearby targets, but the meter won't miss it.
Get clives book on the sovereign and read it over and over and over.
We haven't even gotten to the all metal mode regarding sound.
Its not just the hours on the sovereign but the right scenarios!
Learn the language and know your digital numbers on gold once you truly learn it; Go out with the explorer/etrac guys and LISTEN to their targets as they can only hear a beep beep! The sovereign speaks a language and once you learn it you will never depart from it!
Wil
 
wpruden said:
YES YOU DO NEED TO LEARN THE TONES!!!!!
HOWEVER; due to having a meter I was able to pick out deeper coins on edge that can give a chirp or faint pitchy scratchy sound that my 550 meter said it was a coin between various junk. 550 flashed on my meter in one akward coil movement. I dug the trash Items and scanned that area again now I was able to swing the coil and get a repeatable tone, still at times its not repeatable but find it to be a coin anyway on edge again of course.
There are times when hunting zero disc. that other tones conceal the the faint tone of a deep coin! Thats why I always go back and cover the area again in the silver mode and found more coins that I did not hear due to over tones of other junk items. The silver mode has its place and the meter is a must on land sites for sure! I once dug a wheat penny that was an honest 11 inches deep with the 7.25 bbs coil using the wiggle the tone did climb slightly but the meter was able to hit the 550 mark on the right angles, so thats another reason for the meter. you need BOTH. TONE & SIGNAL strength using the wiggle.
TONE is key, but there are times that soft tone can be missed due to nearby targets, but the meter won't miss it.
Get clives book on the sovereign and read it over and over and over.
We haven't even gotten to the all metal mode regarding sound.
Its not just the hours on the sovereign but the right scenarios!
Learn the language and know your digital numbers on gold once you truly learn it; Go out with the explorer/etrac guys and LISTEN to their targets as they can only hear a beep beep! The sovereign speaks a language and once you learn it you will never depart from it!
Wil

Wpruden, excellent post! So many things right that you touched on. By the way, I re-posted your 12x10 reviews in my 12x10 thread. I know (think) you don't get on too much, so just for an update I traded my 15x12 for a 12x10 because the 15x12 wasn't showing greater depth than the 10" Tornado in my high mineral soil. On the beach it did, though. So far the 12x10 looks to be deeper than the 10" coil but I'm still doing comparison tests. What's interesting is after I experienced this coil and then re-read your old review many things were similar to us. Namely, the crisper/sharper sound for one thing.

Anyway, back to the topic. I can relate on deeper silver being missed because of louder/shallow targets and so using "Silver Mode" will allow you to hear the deep ones and ignore the loud/shallow trash. I have experienced this as well when using the notch to silence the pull tabs in an area. My nickle count (deep and old nickles too) goes way up when I do this. Not only do I pay more attention to the lower conductivity targets that do sound through (like nickles) while shutting up the tabs, but I'm also more apt to hear the deeper ones where a nearby loud target can talk over it. I mainly only use the notch when ring hunting in high tab areas, or when old coin hunting in a bunch of tabs but still wanting to look for nickles in there, yet I can't put up with the 3 to 5 tab hits PER SWEEP at some sites. That's when it's killer. Can't tell you how many older nickles (1930's to 1960's) I've found only an inch or two deep in areas like this, yet everybody else walks right over them. That's due to both machines that don't have the resolution of the Sovereign in the middle part of the scale, as well as people getting blasted out by the tab hits. Mainly though I try not to use any notch or discrimination when old coin hunting.

I can also say that one silver dime I dug a few months back was about 6" deep or so, but it had two shallow tabs about 4" away on either side of it. The first few sweeps through the spot I only heard the loud blast from the tabs. For some reason I decided to turn around and re-sweep the spot more carefully, and only then did I hear the nice/soft/sweet silver coin between them. It's like trying to hear somebody whisper in a bar with loud music playing. Even though the coil could easily see all three targets, until I gave the coil proper use (I was using the S-5) and lingered between the three targets did it have time to isolate and sound off to the coin. If I moved faster or in a different way through them the coil could still see the coin, but the audio was being overpowered by the loud trash hits. I have no doubt that had I ran discrimination all the way up I would have heard that coin while not hearing the tabs, causing me to notice it the first time.

Besides that, there are so many extra traits a meter provides. Very outer fringe depth on coins the audio might only go high/low, but the meter will give some distinct traits to show you it's a coin. At near fringe depth the meter will steadily climb to 180 as you wiggle and it makes it there. On a tiny bit deeper targets the meter might only get to like 173 or 176 before falling to the basement and then steadily climbing with the wiggle again, over and over it does this. You'll know it *should* being doing this based on how deep it sounds *for that site*. Different sites have different max depth responses.

On targets at the very outer edge of detection depth there is a new and distinctly different pattern to coins. They may only linger in the 140's, 150's, and 160's, never getting higher and never settling on one number. The trick is they don't settle into say 165 when it would then probably be a tab. A outer fringe coin might "slide" around, yet the numbers are still far less random than junk. If it sounds fringe deep and does this then dig. If it sounds shallow enough to not be giving you this response then chances are it's oddly shaped trash (non-uniform shape causes shifting numbers).

Above all, constant slow back and fourth wiggles over the target need to be maintained to draw out the ID. Beyond all this, I find the GT will pretty much ID as deep as it can hear a target. I'm talking only in the last say 1/4th to half inch of fringe outer depth do the above things start to come into play. Found no other machine that will ID as true at depth, and all the way out to the very edge of it's detection depth. My Explorers would get "funky" past about 6" in my soil when it comes to the ID.

Can't say this enough...If people want to practice deep coin signal responses then sticking a dime in the ground is the best way to learn. After all, if you don't know what a deep coin acts like then chances are you'll never dig one up. Even if you do, chances are you didn't soak in how it acted before digging it, since you didn't know for sure what it was. By sticking the dime slightly deeper every time you will see where the above three "phases" of a deep coin come into play and how they act. Slowly getting to 180 for near fringe depth, only getting up to 160's or 170's for outer fringe and then dropping down and climbing again, or just doing a 140's 150's thing when it can't get any deeper and still be seen by the machine, but the pattern to these is different than the first two. Practice makes perfect. Even at some rough ground/high mineral sites what is "fringe" depth can be a lot shallower than what it is at others. Mainly you go by sound when you know to expect the above stuff from coins, but there are those really bad sites where the target won't sound all that deep yet it will do one of the three above things. By sticking a coin in the ground at that site you'll know at what depth to expect the above types of responses. It may only sound 6 or 7" deep but it can't give a text book perfect ID due to the harsh ground conditions. As bad as these sites are for even the Sovereign, they were much worse for my Explorers, and even worser than that for non-BBS/FBS machines. Never forget that.

Wpruden, one more thing...You're remark about the Explorer/Etrac is so right on. They do have some traits to their audio but it's still processed and put in a "nice clean wrapper" and sanitized beyond what I want in terms of the telling traits of say gold versus junk.
 
My fellow Sovereign hunters enjoy your detector its name states it all!
The key is: Technique, skill and equipment. We have the best equipment just need various field scenarios.
Critter, thank for your words.
Wil
 
Hi Wil ,
A couple of questions......

How long have you owned a Sovereign ?

How long have you owned an E Trac ?

Thanks, Jim
 
How do you all deal with EMI or experience EMI with your Sovereigns? I have had a great deal of trouble in either channel at some locations, rendering the detector useless, as my friend with an Etrac kept on hunting.
 
Only two ways I know of. A smaller coil and turn down the sensitivity. There are places that you just can not hunt.
 
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