Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Whites Classic III Question

Mr Jean

New member
Hello fellow Whites users.

I am off to England for my first hunt overseas and was wondering if there are any coils larger than 8 inches that are compatible with the older Whites Classic III machine. Is there a spider coil available?

I have a Classic III ID and a Classic III non-metered machine.

I was told by an expert plowed-field hunter that I needed the largest coil I could get in order to pick up that thin hammered silver.

Any help woud be appreciated!
 
No it is the 6 or 8 inch coil you would need .
I USE THE 6 INCH COILS. The large coils will go deep but will not pick up the small coins.
You can use USA dimes for testing.
The XL PRO would be a nasty detector to take over the pond.:clapping:
 
First, the Question: Just what is a Classic III ID?

The closest thing to a Classic III ID is the IDX/IDX Pro which was based on the Classic III SL circuitry with the Classic ID TID circuitry added.

Next, a possible answer: You didn't clarify which Classic III you have except to say "older." If you have the early (original) Classic III that was supplied with a white-colored 8" coil, then the only larger coil you might be able to use is the Blue Max 256. This same coil can also be used on the Classic II and Classic II SL which, like the early Classic III, used the older circuitry design.

The Classic III PLUS and Classic III SL models came supplied with a Blue Max 950 coil, and they can use all of the other "Blue Max" series of coils from 4" to 6
 
Hi Monte,

I wasn't clear in my original question. I have the Clasic III SL and the Classic III SL with a meter.

I just found out that I could get a 15" coil to go with my stock 9.5 Blue Max but will that be worthwile for me to spend the extra money or just take my chances with the stock 9.5 that I have?

As I said in my original post, I am going to England in April and will be hunting plowed fields. In your opinion, will the 9.5" be enough and if so, how can I set my detector to reach maximum depth and sensitivity in order to pick up those thin wafer-like hammered silver coins?

Any Ideas would be apreciated.
 
The Classic III works well on U.K. ploughed fields and will have no trouble locating small hammered silver as long as you don't switch to a larger coil size. The 15" will pass over much medieval and Roman without giving a beep so avoid.
Even the stock 9.5 inch coil fitted to Classics/XLT etc is really to large and is often referred to as an air test coil. It really suffers from target masking. If your on a half decent site there will be three thousand years of rubbish. The eight and six inch will allow you to work round all the ferrous.
Discrimination should be set to just knock out a small nail....any higher and you kiss the small silver goodbye. The more ferrous in the soil the less discrimination that should be used.
 
Well, several, actually, but a couple of them had been using an XLT or one of the faster-sweep 6000 series which tired them out quickly. In addition, they found the fast sweep and bigger coils (stock950's) hampered them working in some of the furrows and rough-ground depressions as well as around some brushy areas.

Both of them had tried their Classic III SL's, but again they used the 950 coil ... AND ... they continued to sweep at the faster speed needed for best performance by the other two models.

I tweaked the Ground Balance and got them both to give the 6
 
Hi guys. If any of you are going over to England to detect, it is worth coming up to Scotland as well, some great finds here. I have some fields close to the Antonine wall (Roman). Lots of good detecting in Scotland, you guys would be very welcome
James
 
Well Monte you have answered my questions and I am very happy to know that the 9.5 coupled with my slow sweep speed will be just fine for my upcoming trip.
I've always been a bit shy about using low to no disc with my non-meterered machine as I will dig plenty of targets and have to rely on my ears to listen to the sweet and soft silver targets.
(I still think that my non-metered machine works better than my metered one.)
But I guess it will have to be as I don't want to miss anything on a trip like this.
It's not like I can go back anytime soon as and hunt the same area.
Thanks for the tips and I am sure happy to have found you again after all these years!
Cheers!
 
Hello James,
Thank you very much for the invite and I would dearly love to hunt is Scotland too.
My freind and I have 1 day off in London before our trip to Colchester so I don't think we could make it up there for this trip.
How far are you from London?
 
Hi Brian,
Thanks for the tips as I was worried that my current set-up would not be good enough and I don't have enough money or time to learn a new detector before my trip in April. We have about 3 feet of snow here and winter lasts for 7-8 months sometimes.
I am in Edmonton, Alberta Canada.
I have a question for you though... you mentioned that: "the more ferrous the soil, the less disc". I thought it would be a higher disc to knock out the junk?
 
I am in central Scotland just north of Glasgow. That means either a 7 hour drive or a 1 hour flight from London

Maybe see you next time
Best wishes
James
 
Brian, over in the UK, stated: "the more ferrous the soil, the less disc"."

He was referring to the "ferrous" or "iron mineral content" that is associated with a lot of their soils. In others words, it's non near neutral to mellow like a Florida coast beach, or easy-going mild ground such as a bulk of Texas dirt. Instead, a good deal of the plowed fields they hunt have a little more mineralization, iron mineralization or ferrous mineralization, whichever term you prefer.

If you are working a picnic area with an abundance of pulls tabs and screw caps, you would use a higher discriminate setting to reject (ignore) them.

If you were searching a ghost town that was littered with densely-strewn iron nails, then you would use just enough discrimination to reject or ignore the most common annoyance, the iron (ferrous) nails.

But when searching ANY site where you want to find-it-all, especially where there are known small and thin targets, you use NO discrimination to reject man-made objects, ferrous or non-ferrous.

Instead, you will want to use the least amount of discrimination possible ... preferable NONE (if your detector offers that option) so that all you are going to be doing is ignoring the very low-conductive ground signal. That way, ALL detectable target might be able be heard, then recovered.

With the Classic III SL or the Classic IDX/IDX Pro (same Classic III SL circuitry except with TID circuitry added), you have that capability. You simply want to make sure the Frequency Shift is set at the Factory Preset (ALWAYS unless you plan to adjust the GB as necessary), toggle to "Black Sand" and then set the Disc. Level at the minimum setting.

The Normal/Black Sand toggle simply adjusts the discriminate range by enhancing or expanding it lower when set at Black Sand. The upper rejection level is unaffected. Only the lower end is expanded.

If you have a properly set Ground Balance, then the Classic III SL or an IDX Pro can be one of the most efficient detectors you could own ...... for any application!

Enjoy England!

Monte

PS: If you have any particular questions about the Classic series, feel welcome to drop me an E-mail to: MonteVB@comcast.net

Monte
 
Thats normal practise....more junk then wind up the discrim.
Trouble is you just can't afford hardly any discrimination in the first place. This applies to all machines Fisher/Minelab whatever.
The fast recovery speed of the Classic will allow you to detect good items very close to bad. Up the discrim. and the positive audio response of small items will either disappear or become so slight that the surrounding ferrous will just mask the target out.
Less discrimination means you maximise depth and hear more targets both bad and good that you then have the opportunity to check individually, cherrypicking out the good by the smoother audio.
 
Mr Jean,

The Larger Coils in general will cover larger areas but you could LOSE depth on Roman Hammered Silvers because they can be so small you could walk over them without an audio response if you used for instance a 1500 Blue Max Loop.

I think the best loop for the job in England would be the low profile Royal 800 which would hear the small hammered deeper and with greater discrimination intensity over a larger loop.

The Jimmy Sierra Magnum Force 15" is an exceptional Loop as it has been engineered with a DUAL Receive section making it exceptional on Large AND Smaller Coin Size Targets. Something to consider.
 
An 8 inch coil is the best choice for the Classics,XLT etc but I would be wary of the JS 15 inch. The Hot Shot is the better choice, but even then if you can find Streaks report on his organised trip to England he mentions that most used the Hot Shot on their XLT's and DFX's for the first day or two but then swapped to smaller coil sizes.
 
You might be right. I'd have to A/B both coils. I can tell you that when I was over in England on the Jimmy Sierra Tour in 2004, I found a Roman Minimus(sp?) withe the DFX and Hot Shot 12. I believe that is one of the smallest coins circulated in Roman Occupied England before 335 AD. It was about 3" down in a plowed field. Got a good hit with a very low conductivity reading.

You might compare all your loop choices by laying down the target on the ground w/o any other nearby edge targets effecting things...

* Engage you Pin Point Mode and look for the strongest all metal pin point signal. That amplitude of signal will indicate the loops true potential on any target relative to its size.(Tips2006 v1.1)
 
Top