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Which Fisher Do I Take?

RLOH

Well-known member
I have a real problem and it's driving me nuts. I currently own two Fishers, a CZ 70 and a Coinstike. Whenever I go detecting, I can't make up my mind which detector to take. Today I took the CS and left the 70 home. It really doesn't matter which one I take as they are both capable of making great finds. I guess I try to make my decision based on how trashy the place is I'm hunting. When super trashy, the CS gets the nod. When it's a little less trashy and targets are 8 inches plus deep, I take the 70. This mornings hunt was a trashy park that use to be a school from 1900 until 1964. The finds were nothing too great, but I did find one ring. Two wheats 1952 and 1917 and a 1935 merc. Don't believe the rumor that the CS is not a deep detector. These coins along with the white gold ring with a 1/3 caret diamond were all 7 to 8 inches deep. I ended up with 35 coins total and I only hunted a 40 foot by 50 foot section. I am constantly amazed at what the CS will find with slow and deliberate hunting. I swear that this detector is the best trash detector I have ever used. HH R.L.
 
I agree with you without hesitation however...

Coinstrike likes round rusty objects especially rusty bottlecaps and calls them a high coin while a CZ like deep rustynails...Seems like an experienced CZ hunter can overcome that deep rusty nail thing.. read Mikes CZ page...but no one can tell me about those darn rusty bottlecaps and how to avoid them with a Coinstrike..Any takers on this one...and please don't tell me where I hunt there is no rusty bottlecaps as its not an answer...seems like my area had a lot of beer drinkers over the years of bottled beer...
In addendum a CZ is user friendly and the Coinstrike has a learning period..so take your pick a CZ for extreme depth and a Coinstrike for moderate depth and trashy areas...
 
When using the C$ if you raise the coil up 4-5 inches if its a rusty bottle cap the TID will drop big time but if its a coin it will stay high.Try that trick out and see if that helps with the C$ and the rusty bottle cap problem.
 
I noticed that too on some detectors that I have used, there is something about lifting the coil off the ground a bit. It also helps for some detectors that may give a false on nails, the key to using this technique is to slowly lift the coil while sweeping and if the signal drops out rapidly then more than likely it is trash. Turning 90 degrees and resweeping helps too, if the signal drops out then it may be trash. However, deep targets and signals in trashy areas don't over rely on signal dropouts, it's best to dig more of them and then make a judgment on whether to do it or not. For nails, they tend to have a much wider all-metal scan than coins.
 
Swinging over the target faster didn't help much and hunting where there is none naturally was a success..but your method sounds logical
and going to have to try that..
For you CZ users...and those deep rusty nails...make sure the signal repeats from two directions and step to the left 45 degrees and swing side to side as to and fro is not accurate on a CZ, just a quirk of the unit..If the signal seems to cover a large area or pinpoint seems to move also an accurate indicator its a rusty nail..Last but not least to a trained ear the nail will sound a tad different as as its configuration is different than a high coin it should double beep from from angle when it hits both ends of the nail. Sure we all get fooled but with practice will dig very few nails and perhaps get fooled on an iffie or perhaps an extremely deep or bent nail...
 
with a glob of rust on it as I found out one time in a heavy hit area.I got a great coin signal left to right but at ninety degrees the signal bounced all over, went negative.It sounded so good in the one direction and wasnt deep so I just had to dig it and was glad I did as I got a nice old merc with the rusty remnants of something on top of it.Taught me a good lesson that day:))
 
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