Critterhunter
New member
I always like to read about people who have pulled some good coins from sites that have been pounded for years and others have given up for dead. We can all get into a debate about which machines have the potential to find coins others missed (see my signature file), but this discussion is beyond that. I'd like to hear about how your techniques change from "virgin" sites to ones where the easy old coins just don't exist anymore for the most part. What methods do you use, signals do you look for, or how does your criteria for "dig worthy" change when you know the old coins left are either going to be super deep or shallow but masked badly by iron or other trash?
For me, I of course make sure I've got my machine fine tuned for maximum depth at that site and am constantly listening for those deep whispers that might be coins right at the edge of detection depth. Often on any machine these coins aren't going to always ID right even if you check them out carefully. That's when knowing how fringe depth coins respond on your particular machine pays off. As for the other coins, ones masked in some way or badly on edge, I also have done some testing to touch up on how those can react. I'm careful to check out any "junk" or null signals from various angles to see if I can find a coin signal mixed in there somewhere. I know from experience that a coin masked properly might produce a good coin ID from one specific spot and direction, while it can be a total null or really bad signal from any other. I also like to dig those shallow "clad" signals, even zincs, if they are masked fairly bad by nearby trash. Reason being they very well could be an old indian or something that, while shallow, hasn't been found by others because of the masking. Then there are those scratchy screw or bottle cap signals. Those can very well be old silvers or such that are giving a bad response due to trash with them in the hole. My other method is to grid the area from an odd angle that otherwise probably never have. Most people will parallel some land obstruction such as the wood line at the edge of a mowed grass field, while a few others (probably 20%) will grid that area at a 90 degree angle to that wood line, hunting up to it, then away, then back again, just like they were also mowing the lawn. When I think of it I like to work the area at a diagnal angle to something like that wood line or a sidewalk. Angle at it, then angle away. Reason being that many masked coins will only sound off from one specific direction. For that reason many of the coins that could be seen by paralleling the obstruction or hunting at 90 degrees from it have been found, but those that can only be seen by an odd angle are probably still there in greater numbers.
I'd like to hear your methods, strategies, and techniques for "worked out" areas. Do you go to a bigger coil, smaller coil, or say run the machine in All Metal to search for the real deep ones and then double check them in discriminate? Often discriminate might ignore a masked or fringe depth signal (due to things like ground iron content in microscopic form) while All Metal hits it harder. Have you dug coins that weren't even masked but for some odd reason read like a pull tab or other junk? What's your secret to popping old coins out of sites that others haven't bothered with for the last twenty years?
For me, I of course make sure I've got my machine fine tuned for maximum depth at that site and am constantly listening for those deep whispers that might be coins right at the edge of detection depth. Often on any machine these coins aren't going to always ID right even if you check them out carefully. That's when knowing how fringe depth coins respond on your particular machine pays off. As for the other coins, ones masked in some way or badly on edge, I also have done some testing to touch up on how those can react. I'm careful to check out any "junk" or null signals from various angles to see if I can find a coin signal mixed in there somewhere. I know from experience that a coin masked properly might produce a good coin ID from one specific spot and direction, while it can be a total null or really bad signal from any other. I also like to dig those shallow "clad" signals, even zincs, if they are masked fairly bad by nearby trash. Reason being they very well could be an old indian or something that, while shallow, hasn't been found by others because of the masking. Then there are those scratchy screw or bottle cap signals. Those can very well be old silvers or such that are giving a bad response due to trash with them in the hole. My other method is to grid the area from an odd angle that otherwise probably never have. Most people will parallel some land obstruction such as the wood line at the edge of a mowed grass field, while a few others (probably 20%) will grid that area at a 90 degree angle to that wood line, hunting up to it, then away, then back again, just like they were also mowing the lawn. When I think of it I like to work the area at a diagnal angle to something like that wood line or a sidewalk. Angle at it, then angle away. Reason being that many masked coins will only sound off from one specific direction. For that reason many of the coins that could be seen by paralleling the obstruction or hunting at 90 degrees from it have been found, but those that can only be seen by an odd angle are probably still there in greater numbers.
I'd like to hear your methods, strategies, and techniques for "worked out" areas. Do you go to a bigger coil, smaller coil, or say run the machine in All Metal to search for the real deep ones and then double check them in discriminate? Often discriminate might ignore a masked or fringe depth signal (due to things like ground iron content in microscopic form) while All Metal hits it harder. Have you dug coins that weren't even masked but for some odd reason read like a pull tab or other junk? What's your secret to popping old coins out of sites that others haven't bothered with for the last twenty years?