What signals to dig

[weeunc]

What signals do you guys usually dig? Being new to this I seem to keep away from the one way signals or signals that jump all over from very high to low on the spectrum . Is this a wise choice? I know they say to dig everything especially when you are a newbie like me. I have a GTI 1500 and set it to coin or jewelry. I then listen for signals that hit within these ranges both ways . But I find a lot that hit with good tone one way only. Usually I don't dig these but I'm always afraid that it could be a nail hiding a coin.

I know the only way to learn is dig everything . I guess I'm answering my own question but it never hurts to pick the brains of the veterans.

I find when hunting in zero discrimination at my property hard as the detector never stays quiet.
Any input good or bad would be appreciated.

Thanks again

 

[NM5K]

Most ID bouncers tend to be trash. But not always.. Or at least it would depend what
one considers as trash. IE: could be old hot wheels cars, relics, etc. Those will often
bounce around as well.
Many one way hits that are stable in ID can be coins. I've found plenty of them.
If I get a one way hit that shows fairly deep, and ID's the same every time, I dig it.
It's often a deep coin on the edge of the coil pattern, or sideways coins, etc..
Also, if a nail were close to a coin, you could bounce around as far as ID. But in
many cases you can tell that they are two objects if they are far enough apart.
But I'm using a 250, and am not really familiar with how the 1500 acts when pinpointing
and IDing. For instance with the 250, if I have two objects close together, but far
enough apart to be pinpointed separately, I can usually tell which object is which
by the ID shown after releasing the pinpoint button. Say, if there is a dime, and
two inches away a nail. When I pinpoint, I'll often be able to tell there is two objects,
even if they overlap a bit. Desensitizing the pinpoint mode can shrink things down
and make it easier to see. So lets say I'm pinpointing the object I think is a coin.
When I pinpoint it, and do the final "pull back to tone cutout", I'll release the button,
and do a very slight twitch. The ID will go off, and 95% of the time it will be for the
object I was pinpointing. Lets say it was a dime tab going off. Then I move to the
other target and do the same. It reads a bouncy iron/coin read. It's probably the
trash of the two objects.
But I'll still usually end up digging both being as both are in the neighborhood.. :/
Like I say, some bouncers might be some relic or something I might want to keep,
like say the hot wheels cars, or whatever.
Anyway, if you get a one way hitter and it reads the same coin ID every time, I'd
dig it. It's often a deep coin, or one on it's side. You can also switch directions
to help verify in some cases.
But like I have said, I usually dig about everything. Even some trash targets are
objects I'd like to keep. I hunt relics as much or more than coins.
Actually, old relics is really what I bought it for. Not coin hunting. The coins are
just a bonus to me. I'd trade five years of clad for a civil war belt buckle any
day of the week.. Course, where I detect, there is not much civil war stuff..

 

[Uncle Willy]

If you do the "twitch" over those signals many will turn into two-way signals. Corroded or heavily tarnished coins will signal like that including coins on edge.

Bill

 

[murfar1]

That was very well put NM5K. Very well explained. I also use the 250 and what I usually do with a consistent one way signal is go to A/M mode and I'll normally (most of the time) pick up what it is that is causing the interference (masking) be it foil, iron, etc. And usually from that point I can pinpoint the good signal once I get them separated. Sometimes if I sweep while moving around the desired target from different angles I can bring up a good 2 way signal. Having said that, I'll fess up and say I don't much bother with 1 way signals anymore unless they appear as very promising clear bell tones or I can get a 2 way signal by changing my sweep position. I'm mainly a coinshooter. It's just too time consuming for me to keep doing that and it really slows me down. Not that I'm in a rush but I'm slow enough already. It's also very hard on the bod (being of ancient age) and I have to use some discretion on just how many deep knee bends I'm going to perform. Yes, I'm probably leaving some good targets behind but there are always others, usually just a few feet away.

 

[weeunc]

Thanks for all of the info. What do you mean by final pullback to tone cutout. What does twitchng mean? I'm not familiar with the 250 ( or the 1500 yet ) I have never used the pinpoint button for anything but locating the spot , sizing and how deep the object is.

Also when I get a one way coin signal and go to A/M mode I usually will get a coin signal one way and a iron signal the other. Does this mean there are two objects or is this the halo effect with the iron causing the detector to think it is a better metal?

Sorry to ask so many questions but you guys seem to have a lot of experience. It sure seems like a lot of hunters love that 250.

 

[oldranger]

a TWITCH is a quick short wiggle over the target
it will for sure help find the coins Uncle Willy and
the rest of the experienced folks have for sure
helped me a lot

Good luck and Welcome

Ron

Rangers Lead The Way

 

[murfar1]

Also when I get a one way coin signal and go to A/M mode I usually will get a coin signal one way and a iron signal the other. Does this mean there are two objects or is this the halo effect with the iron causing the detector to think it is a better metal?

To me, in my limited experience, hearing a 1 way signal in the A/M mode means there are probably 2 targets in close proximity and I'm usually able to hone in on the one I want after having switched modes. If I'm in jewelry mode for example and get a 1 way signal, my experience has been that most of the time it's due to an adjacent target which I've had discriminateed out, i.e. iron. Some of the veterans have suggested also that stomping the ground can help (assume this is in the case of a coin lying on edge) or doing the twitch/wiggle. I've had limited success with either one but others have said it can be a successful tactic. Can't address the halo effect as I don't know much about it. Didn't mean it to seem I was giving advice. I've got less n 3 months experience under my belt. Just trying to tell it like it is for me so far.

 

[rick (nova scotia)]

Signals that jump wildly AND go all the way up to silver or 99 are most likely going to be iron. Signals that bounce, but not quite so wildly, AND do not go all the way to the top of the scale, say tab to penny or 50 to 68 just as examples, can still be trash, but are much more likely to be something interesting, or maybe multiple targets.

You said you were new, sure wouldn't hurt to dig a few, it will give you more confidence to walk past them.