Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

vents and over heating the CZ3D

grouser

New member
I want to build a carry case to hip mount my 3d,,,,,I will never need the speaker so I was not going to cut slits in the plastic case for that,,, I see no other vent holes on the unit. Is there any? If I enclose all but the top of the control box will it over heat? Thanks
 
It won't overheat - after all - the CZ 20 and CZ 21 are sealed (watertight) and they basically have the same inner workings as a land based CZ model.
 
How about posting a pic of your hip-mount for the rest of us? Also, have you considered making a cordura(?) cloth bag for it? Kind of like the one that is included from Garrett, for their Sea Hunter II pi machine? It had a belt loop, and a velcro strap that secures it in place. Nice and light weight. Just a thought. :)
 
Here's a link on this web site that shows how to make a pouch for a Minelab Sovereign GT with a meter. I'm sure the method shown in this link can be used to make a hip mount for just about any detector.

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,633381,633381#msg-633381


-NEBeachcomber
 
The case I am designing encloses the coil connector in an empty space below the control box with-in the tote case. I will turn the cable 90 degrees with-in this same space and have it come out the side of the case so when I take off the entire unit I can set it down and it will set on the bottom of the carry case and not damage the or touch the coil wire,, It is a hard plastic inner shell that slips down into a Cordura type pouch,,, will post pics later if I can,,,,,,,,I have a leather one but the coil connector sticks out the bottom,,, and I find that after a long hunt I want to take my belt off and set it down,,,,usually the coil wire/connector is the first thing that hits the ground,,,,, I HATE THAT as I believe it's the cause of a bum connector on my unit as we speak (type LOL),,,,,thanks for all you help gents
 
Sure takes the weight off of the arm but if not careful the connector to the control box can be strained and need to be resoldered.....
 
Dan-Pa. said:
Sure takes the weight off of the arm but if not careful the connector to the control box can be strained and need to be resoldered.....
spot on!!! It will not happen again to this unit after my new case is done,,,,,
 
I fully agree Dan!

While I do own several Fisher detectors... I do not find the need to hip mount any of them.

I also own two of other detectors shown in the link and I prefer to hip mount them for both comfort and convenience. This other detector company also recommends looping the lead through your belt to take the strain off of the connector while hip mounting for just the reason you mentioned in your earlier message.
 
Top