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Vaquero - Schoolyard King!

DavHut

New member
[size=medium]Like most detectorists, I have tried many detectors in my nearly 20 years in the hobby. Name a brand commonly available and I have likely tried some, if not most of their offerings. But every now and then I like to go back to my roots; back to basics, so to speak.

My first detector was a Tesoro Silver Sabre II, a great detector and a good first learning tool. I no longer have it; instead I have graduated now to the latest
 
Very good and informative post Dav. You really know your machine! HH Joe
 
David, great article about the V. I believe most Tesoro's would fall into the scope of your post. Tesoro's discrimination is second to none and the ulta light weight is also unrivaled. R.L.
 
I believe most Tesoro's would fall into the scope of your post. Tesoro's discrimination is second to none
The ulta light weight is also unrivaled.

All true!

I was at it again this morning, spending some time in dirt church and the Barkchip Cathedral.

I really wanted to get the feel for foil on this trip since it is so abundant at schoolyards and other tot-lots. One of the things both my old Silver Sabre II and 1266X were good at was ID'ing foil. If you worked the coil just right, at the right speed, foil would give itself away by it's weak response, rapidly dissappearing signal and in the case of the 1266X, the "buzziness" of the audio. Well, I can say the Vaquero - - - comes close.

There doesn't seem to be a defined "set and forget" point at the low end of the b1 range where foil will give itself away, but the DISC will do that for you.

To try this yourself, first recall the idea of the Nickel Pivot Point mentioned in the first part. With that as your starting point, every notch below it will be given a negative number hereafter: -1, -2 , etc.

So to hunt for foil, set your DISC at -2, or TWO notches below nickle. Most foil, even the small bitsies, will signal clearly at this level. But, somewhere between the nickle pivot and -1, foil almost always breaks up and cuts out. The small bits dont have enough surface area to give a signal if you raise your coil even a littel bit, either. Only the really large wads will hit up around nickle - not much you can do about that.

So working the DISC around the nickle pivot and raising the coil a bit, I was ID'ing the 'foilies' pretty reliably. I tested this time and again this morning and it was clear... foil will give out somewhere between the notch before nickle and the nickle notch itself.

So what about the pieces of what I like to call "micro-jewelry?"
Examples of this sort of jewelry are gold kiddie pieces, small charms and fine filigree work. We're told by the experts such stuff falls into the foil range, right? Well, I tested a few such pieces from my collection and the experts are correct - you can forget about them at foil DISC levels.

The Vaq wont get them. At least a few of my test pieces were not detectable at all, even at minimum DISC and max settings! The only thing that was reliably detected was a small 10K kids ring.

Unfortunately, this stuff DOES exist around schools, tot lots and other such places. I found a neat little junk kiddie bracelet today, all chain and baubles - which I eyeballed. The Vaq barely picked it up, even at the -2 point (what I'm gonna call the "Foil Detect" setting).

The only way to get such goodies is to hunt in ALL METAL and hope that it'll be big enough.... :(

Now for the good news. Fortunately, there isn't as much really nice kid jewelry as you may think. Some, but not what I'd call a lot, so I dont worry over missing it - but I DO make the effort in barkchip lots and sand by going to the -2 notch setting. I hit lots of foil, as expected, but it's easy to tell by "thumbing" the DISC knob and shuffling the barkchips around with the toe of my shoe.

I dont think I'll ever have it all figured out, no matter how much I try. But the more I practice and push the limits, the better my results become. Keep at it, Tesoroites.
 
Nice write up of your observations. I use a Tejon, and have found that in order to get the micro stuff you have to be clear down on iron - I never go to the total all metal setting as I dont like listening to the sound, but I always check all signals in totlots but usually ran at just below foil setting, but I saw something gold colored sticking in the sand, ran the coil over it and got no response - it was a filigreed gold earring, so to get it all I now run iron in sand, and as you say its easy to check without too much trouble in sand and chips.
 
I am thinking on getting a Vaquero to do till Tesoro brings out a new water machine that will work in the salt as the Tiger just doesn't cut it. Definitely want a unit that will hit a fine necklace in the dry stuff.
 
Bad news? Probably not, regardless of your settings.
Good news? No one else makes one that will hit them reliably, either.

UPDATE: This whole chain thing is much ado over nothing. There is very little gold in a fine chain to start with, so even if you find one... you aint found much.
There is also a feeling that says... "if you can find chains, you can find anything" That's a load of CRAP!
For a detector to reliably hit fine gold chains, it has to be so sensitive that you probably dont have the patience to live with it in normal use.


WARNING! HARSH TRUTH ALERT - - Small gold chains are a wash - low conductivity metal that is mostly air and interspaces. Metal detectors could righfully be called "surface area" detectors and chains dont have much, if any.

You DO get the larger ones sometimes, the one with chunky links, but even these come in as broken signals. You have to listen for the scratchy choppy hits and dig a lot of foil. Thats the bottom line... oh, and hope there's a pendant still attached!
 
...I have found that in order to get the micro stuff you have to be clear down on iron - I never go to the total all metal setting as I dont like listening to the sound,

I always check all signals in totlots but usually ran at just below foil setting, but I saw something gold colored sticking in the sand, ran the coil over it and got no response - it was a filigreed gold earring, so to get it all I now run iron in sand, and as you say its easy to check without too much trouble in sand and chips.


I think that would work just fine. I didnt run that way as I was trying to work out the foil angle, as I said. But the pieces I tested with a properly GB'd unit at home where virtually undetectable at any setting. Unless you were physically investigating every signal, you would have probably missed them.
That comes as close to ALL METAL as you can get!
 
I had found a few small chains with the Bandido II umax and was hoping the Vaquero was as sensitive. They were not loud banging targets but a noticeable response in the dry sand and wood chips.
 
I have to agee with your results on chains, at least in my experience. I didnt mean to lead anyone astray - chains will signal their presence. But some things have to be right to detect them...

1. You need to be in a very low DISC mode
2. The chain needs to be rather shallow.
3. It needs to be bunched or have sizeable links.
4. You have to listen for and investigate very erratic and broken
signals.
5. It would be nice if the pendant were still with the chain!
 
Fantastic post.
 
Thanks DavHut for the tips and experiences.
I also swing the V and believe your posts will help a lot.
 
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