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V3I

oklahomadigger

New member
I have been succesfull for the last 6 months with my V3I,Just a couple of ????

1---when looking at the ground tracking +zoom=ground probe ,what am I looking for to determine what I need to adjust for minerals and EMI,

2--If a Site is noisy what do you change first and if it does not what to change next and so on?

3--How do you determine what ground filter to run?I usally run 5 band pass

Im sorry if I am asking things that has been covered before.
 
n/t
 
I'll answer 2 and 3 first.

2--If a Site is noisy what do you change first and if it does not what to change next and so on?
1)Switch to a band pass filter as the band pass filters will filter out more noise than the high pass filters
2) Try different frequency offsets
3) Try the various single frequencies
4) Lower disc sensitivity
5) Try correlate mode rather than best data (if in 3 frequency mode).
6) Switching to Salt Compensate helps with EMI if you want to work in 3F mode.
7) Change coils (concentric)
:geek: Try wired headphone

3--How do you determine what ground filter to run? I usually run 5 band pass
When selecting a filter consider Mineralization first, EMI next and Sweep Speed last.
If you know your ground mineralization then you would probably make these choices.
For, very low mineralization use 5Hz, then for low mineralization use 7.5Hz.For moderate mineralization use 10Hz and for high mineralization use 12.5Hz

If considering EMI use the High Pass filters if the EMI is low and the Band pass filters if the EMI is high.

This information is meant to get you close. The slowest sweep speed that you find you can use will usually produce the best results. Adjust your physical sweep speed a bit for the best target response after selecting the best filter for the environmental conditions. After you select the best filter for the environmental conditions adjust your sweep speed to optimize the target response.
 
OK, question 1

1---when looking at the ground tracking +zoom=ground probe ,what am I looking for to determine what I need to adjust for minerals and EMI,

The VDI number; Ferrous mineralization is in the -95 to -75 VDI region. Conductive mineralization such as a wet salt sand beach is near VDI -15 to +15. A ferrite bead will come in very close to 180 degrees (-95 VDI) which is close to where most normal ground comes in. Salt water (wet beach or fields with lots of fertilizer and wet) comes in close to 90 degrees (0 VDI). The closer the VDI is to -95 the more ferrous the soil and as the number goes down the more conductive the soil. By determining the ground
 
Something I would suggest is down load the V3 manual off the Whites web site. The V3 manual goes into greater detail on certain subjects.

According to the V3 manual page 39-40 the ground tracking probe shows 360 degrees of phase for each frequency of use. You can use that info to determine your ground mineralization plus numbers high mineralization negative less, or you can use the TDI for target determination.
The V3i manual page 21 is pretty vague on the subject.

When you hit a noisy site I assume you mean lots of ticks and pops. First you need to determine if it's EMI or ground noise. Simple enough, hold your coil straight out waist level if it keeps making noise turn your discrimination down if it makes noise while sweeping the ground and theres no targets turn the gain down.
I hunt the Fair Grounds here and theres tons and tons of trash and I turn the gain down to 3 and disc at 90 and still get good depth and the machine runs smooth.

As far as what filter to use I would refer back to the manual. A lot depends on your sweep speed. 2 seconds left to right 2 seconds right to left = 10 Hz filter.
The way I pick a filter is when I start hunting ,I find a descent repeatable signal then I will try different filters until I get the best sound while maintain a constant sweep speed.
For me the area decides my sweep speed. Trashy means slower and lower filter, fewer targets means I need to cover more ground and a faster sweep speed and higher filter.
Thats whats nice about the V3i is you can customize it for maximum effect.
 
Dude said:
Something I would suggest is down load the V3 manual off the Whites web site. The V3 manual goes into greater detail on certain subjects.

According to the V3 manual page 39-40 the ground tracking probe shows 360 degrees of phase for each frequency of use. You can use that info to determine your ground mineralization plus numbers high mineralization negative less, or you can use the TDI for target determination.
The V3i manual page 21 is pretty vague on the subject.

When you hit a noisy site I assume you mean lots of ticks and pops. First you need to determine if it's EMI or ground noise. Simple enough, hold your coil straight out waist level if it keeps making noise turn your discrimination down if it makes noise while sweeping the ground and theres no targets turn the gain down.
I hunt the Fair Grounds here and theres tons and tons of trash and I turn the gain down to 3 and disc at 90 and still get good depth and the machine runs smooth.

As far as what filter to use I would refer back to the manual. A lot depends on your sweep speed. 2 seconds left to right 2 seconds right to left = 10 Hz filter.
The way I pick a filter is when I start hunting ,I find a descent repeatable signal then I will try different filters until I get the best sound while maintain a constant sweep speed.
For me the area decides my sweep speed. Trashy means slower and lower filter, fewer targets means I need to cover more ground and a faster sweep speed and higher filter.
Thats whats nice about the V3i is you can customize it for maximum effect.


Now that makes real good sense Thank You
 
Thanks Oklahomadigger. Thank you Rob and Dude for more information that will help me out in the field. I needed to know that. Now I just have to figure out how to keep it in my head??? Appreciated!! Happy Trails....Z
 
Dude said:
The way I pick a filter is when I start hunting ,I find a descent repeatable signal then I will try different filters until I get the best sound while maintain a constant sweep speed.
For me the area decides my sweep speed. Trashy means slower and lower filter, fewer targets means I need to cover more ground and a faster sweep speed and higher filter.

If you do this test you should reduce your RX until the signal just good. Then you will notice the results of changing the filters. If the signal is too strong it may be hard to see a change between filters.
 
" Now I just have to figure out how to keep it in my head??? Appreciated!! Happy Trails....Z"



Just print this page, or the part you like and put it in your pocket for a reference

HH
John London
 
While the higher-tech models like the Spectra series offer a vast array of adjustment features and wide-ranging selections within them, it is very easy for many hobbyists to tinker with them beyond belief. The XLT was tough for many, and the DFX added a few more adjustments that made it a bit more challenging. The Spectra VX3 is a step above, and the Spectra V3i can keep a person "touching-and-scrolling" for lengthy periods just to try and accomplish what isn't really accomplishable.

By that, I refer here to sweep speed. So many people, regardless of the make or model detector in their hand, seem to have an obsession with wanting to sweep - - - = F A S T ... and most of the time their field performance will be impaired.

Rob's responses, the technical parts, are well regarded and I just don't want readers to skim over this important line he inserted. Use the adjustments that are really needed to get good performance, but make sure that you don't try to over-sweep the V3i (or any other detector) when it defeats the designed performance level.

Just my non-technical reminder.

Monte
 
I have to agree with you Monte and thanks for chiming in.

Over the years I would have to guess that more users have become disappointed in the programmables by over adjusting without understanding what they were doing than for any other reason. Programmable detectors are NOT for everyone and the non technical hobbyist will often do much better with a detector with limited adjustability, the VX3 is a fine example of simplification.
 
So.............your saying the goal of adjusting for proper usage of the machine will never happen. And, if that's the case ( MY Words) now..You'll never get full potential with he V3i, and maybe always rather poor hunting results.. Is this correct Monte...??
 
I read it wrong..Sorry......... I now understand Monte was speaking of sweep speeds and not total operation of the V3i..
I'm looking forward to detecting with the V3i.. There are so many things I like on this machine.... VDI, Icons, Probe mode, Available coils, Pre set programs that cover just about any detecting situation I could want ............ The feel of the detector....... I also want to say the stability is awesome. I owned a prior version...........Let me say the V3i is a much improved version. Like Larry said in an earlier post..If you haven't upgraded to the v3i .run to the post office and get it sent in.. You will be very pleased.
 
Thanks Monte,

Honestly I have hardly made that many adjustments over the years. I use maybe 3 programs and use my Hi Pro program 90% of the time.

Keep those Classic's running.:devil:
 
Elton said:
I read it wrong..Sorry......... I now understand Monte was speaking of sweep speeds and not total operation of the V3i..
I'm looking forward to detecting with the V3i.. There are so many things I like on this machine.... VDI, Icons, Probe mode, Available coils, Preset programs that cover just about any detecting situation I could want ............ The feel of the detector....... I also want to say the stability is awesome. I owned a prior version...........Let me say the V3i is a much improved version. Like Larry said in an earlier post..If you haven't upgraded to the v3i .run to the post office and get it sent in.. You will be very pleased.

Elton, I'm glad you got that message about Rob's reference to a slower sweep speed usually being the best. I was referencing how so many people get too carried away and simply mess up the performance.

Oh, there can be some other differences is performance just based on other circuitry design alone, but adjustments can tempt people and over-tinkering or over-adjusting can defeat the controls basic abilities.

For example, I like my XLT. I've liked all of them in the past, and the one I own now isn't going anywhere until I pass away. This is Lucky #22 and while I have owned a few DFX's, the XLT has always provided me with better all-around performance. I have my three custom programs, but I only use my favorite one about 95% of the time, and maybe that's more like 98% of the time.

Not too many adjustments, and not any radical or goofy changes that will cause negative performance for what I will use it for. The DFX is a good detector and some still like it even after trying the Vision/Spectra V3. That's good, in my opinion, because those guys, and the gal and guy I know who like their XLT more, are comfortable with them. They felt the V3 just had too much for them to learn .... and adjust.

Yes, there is a lot to learn, but there shouldn't be too much adjusting, or not much variance from a current setting, in order to get a satisfactory change.

You're certainly not new to metal detecting so I am sure you will also take the time to simply learn what the V3i can do. Like the XLT and DFX and MXT's they have a very similar weight and balance ... with the same size/weight coil counted ... and that is one of the reasons I like the Spectra series. I do like the stability they provide, too.


Larry (IL) said:
I have to agree with you Monte and thanks for chiming in.

Over the years I would have to guess that more users have become disappointed in the programmables by over adjusting without understanding what they were doing than for any other reason. Programmable detectors are NOT for everyone and the non technical hobbyist will often do much better with a detector with limited adjustability, the VX3 is a fine example of simplification.

Larry, between you and Rob, and naturally several others, I think most of the needed questions get answered here. I just couldn't help but emphasize the simple reminder Rob made about sweep speed.

You are so correct that way too many people make an error in buying a very multi-programmable detector. They do it, I think, for the wrong reasons. Those are often because the want more depth, better depth, want to find deep small targets located inches below big hunks of iron or non-ferrous junk, and they think they can make them hunt faster and process things faster than ever before.

While some programming capabilities have helped in some respects, we just can't ignore the basics. Proper coil choice, proper coil presentation, and proper sweep speed. They, or too many of them, also believe the added visual TID info will be closer to 100% accurate on coin identification and don't appreciate that trash causes target masking, and bad ground signals also much be dealt with.


Rob (IL) said:
Thanks Monte,

Honestly I have hardly made that many adjustments over the years. I use maybe 3 programs and use my Hi Pro program 90% of the time.

Keep those Classic's running.:devil:

You're welcome, and a bigger "Thank You" for the detailed assistance you provide readers, especially here on the Spectra Forum. :thumbup:

If everyone who bought a brand new programmable detector had to actually use it, with factory-stock programs and settings, for 1 year or 60 full days afield, which ever came first, and had to actually LEARN what each program difference provided, master the different program settings the factory provided, and get to just KNOW the detector really well ... then get an instant full-function update (a magic switch to make everything work fully), ... then some might have a better chance of figuring out what different feature adjustments might provide.

By then they ought to know if the new multi-programmable model would be for them, or if they just needed a 'simpler' detector. If they knew the Spectra or other programmable well, they might not over-adjust. Like you, I have a particular program that I have only made a FEW modest changes (on my XLT), and it does its job just fine. Like your 90%, it is a good 95%-98% of the time I grab the XLT and use ONLY that one program and set changes.

As for those excellent Classic series models that White's provided us, I will do my best to always have one in hand or in the rig waiting to help the cause. :) Modified and equipped with a 6
 
This whole discussion reaffirms a basic "truth"....appreciating that learning "the basics" are where we start our personal process, learn the machine and all it's details, then we all come back to prioritizing our time with basics. (The fact that Monte's honest appraisal has a Classic and V3i as "the goods" just illustrates the point.) Respect for "basic" can mean either a particular "basic" machine, or the basic adjustments on a "glory box".
 
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