I may be just wishing out loud, but does anyone know of an underwater housing suitable for, or adaptable to containing the Gold Bug Pro? Doesn't have to go too deep, maybe 6 to 8 feet at the most. There are makers of custom housings, but I believe their prices would be pretty steep, maybe even higher than the cost of a Garrett AT Pro (which goes down to 10 feet).
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Underwater housing for Gold Bug Pro?
- Thread starter Hobbyist
- Start date
JimGilmore
Active member
mAYBE AN OTTER BOX
JimGilmore
Active member
you could try contacting otterbox and give them the dims...
Maybe they would be interested in making a new size.
Maybe they would be interested in making a new size.
Ken in Georgia
New member
Great idea! Lets see who can come up with one.
Ken in Georgia
New member
Good idea jim
My brain is whirling with thoughts. Thank you again Jim! I shall write to the Otterbox company and make a proposal for a clear waterproof casing which will fit Gold Bugs and Teknetics G2s.
A casing which closely contours the machine would be better than using an overly-large Otterbox; less airspace inside means less bouyancy. Just leave enough space inside for one or 2 small packets of silica gel to absorb any moisture in the trapped air. Hmm...maybe a thick translucent and flexible membrane for the front to allow finger access to the +, - and GG/pinpoint buttons. 2 external knobs with double o-rings for us to turn the knobs. 3 main problematic areas for waterproofing are
1) The headphones (maybe just do without headphones...plug in LED lights or a vibratory mechanism instead)
2) The entrance port for the coil's cable
3) The mounting of the unit to the rod.
If anyone has ideas/suggestions, please chime in!
A casing which closely contours the machine would be better than using an overly-large Otterbox; less airspace inside means less bouyancy. Just leave enough space inside for one or 2 small packets of silica gel to absorb any moisture in the trapped air. Hmm...maybe a thick translucent and flexible membrane for the front to allow finger access to the +, - and GG/pinpoint buttons. 2 external knobs with double o-rings for us to turn the knobs. 3 main problematic areas for waterproofing are
1) The headphones (maybe just do without headphones...plug in LED lights or a vibratory mechanism instead)
2) The entrance port for the coil's cable
3) The mounting of the unit to the rod.
If anyone has ideas/suggestions, please chime in!
JimGilmore
Active member
I say look on "treasure depot.com"
Somebody there had put a garrett 250 I think it was in an otter box and used fittings and such....I think he had headphones plugged in and all...
Somebody there had put a garrett 250 I think it was in an otter box and used fittings and such....I think he had headphones plugged in and all...
You can also find more waterproof boxes by googling:
gsi lexan box
pelican case
plano guide series field boxes
S3 Dry Boxes
Underwater Kinetics Dry Boxes
To run cables through the housing you could use Blue Sea Cable Clams. Make sure the inside diameter of the plastic hole is large enough for your coil connector to pass through so that you do not have to cut and splice your coil cable. You could also run a waterproof headphone through a second cable clam. Main drawback to a set up like this is that it is a set and forget approach and would be difficult to use the ground balance feature. Probably a better setup for an auto-ground balance metal detector.
Good luck.
gsi lexan box
pelican case
plano guide series field boxes
S3 Dry Boxes
Underwater Kinetics Dry Boxes
To run cables through the housing you could use Blue Sea Cable Clams. Make sure the inside diameter of the plastic hole is large enough for your coil connector to pass through so that you do not have to cut and splice your coil cable. You could also run a waterproof headphone through a second cable clam. Main drawback to a set up like this is that it is a set and forget approach and would be difficult to use the ground balance feature. Probably a better setup for an auto-ground balance metal detector.
Good luck.
I found the article, Jim! It's on another forum. As I'm not sure if it's permitted to post links to other forums in here, those who wish to read about that underwater housing can Google "Waterproof Ace 250 Lake Looter".
And my thanks to kai_gold for the search terms. I'm pretty sure I can find a suitable box from among those brands!
One remaining hurdle: apprehension due to the possibility of drowning this great detector due to component failure.
And my thanks to kai_gold for the search terms. I'm pretty sure I can find a suitable box from among those brands!
One remaining hurdle: apprehension due to the possibility of drowning this great detector due to component failure.
I have duly written in to customer.service@otterbox.com , and I urge all who wish to have a properly-constructed waterproof housing for your machine to do the same. If enough people express interest in such a housing, it may prompt Otterbox to fast-track a new product for us! Below is the body of the e-mail I sent them:
"Dear Sir/Madam,
I would like to put forth a request to your company to manufacture a waterproof clear box to house the main unit of Fisher Gold Bug/Gold Bug SE/Gold Bug Pro/Gold bug DP and Teknetics G2 metal detectors. All the aforementioned models share essentially the same main unit shell and are of similar dimensions. They are all produced by the First Texas Corporation and are rather popular.
I own a Fisher Gold Bug Pro and would love to be able to take this unit into 5 or 6 feet of water safely. It works well in shallow salt or fresh water and having a waterproof housing would allow users to extend the machine's search area. Such a housing would also have the added benefit of providing protection against rain and accidental light knocks on land.
Unfortunately I am unable to provide you with the installed base numbers for your analysis of potential customers. However if you were to approach the First Texas Corp, they may be able to give you the current figures. If you were to look into the dedicated online forums for these machines, you will find that the users are a rather enthusiastic and dedicated metal detectorists and would surely want to give our machines the benefits of such a protective housing. I hope you will consider expanding your product line to service this market.
Thank you."
"Dear Sir/Madam,
I would like to put forth a request to your company to manufacture a waterproof clear box to house the main unit of Fisher Gold Bug/Gold Bug SE/Gold Bug Pro/Gold bug DP and Teknetics G2 metal detectors. All the aforementioned models share essentially the same main unit shell and are of similar dimensions. They are all produced by the First Texas Corporation and are rather popular.
I own a Fisher Gold Bug Pro and would love to be able to take this unit into 5 or 6 feet of water safely. It works well in shallow salt or fresh water and having a waterproof housing would allow users to extend the machine's search area. Such a housing would also have the added benefit of providing protection against rain and accidental light knocks on land.
Unfortunately I am unable to provide you with the installed base numbers for your analysis of potential customers. However if you were to approach the First Texas Corp, they may be able to give you the current figures. If you were to look into the dedicated online forums for these machines, you will find that the users are a rather enthusiastic and dedicated metal detectorists and would surely want to give our machines the benefits of such a protective housing. I hope you will consider expanding your product line to service this market.
Thank you."
I will surely post any reply from Otterbox, Seeker41. Hopefully they will consider my request.
Thanks for the URL, Godigit1 . It looks OK, but I'd want to have the ability to use the controls while in wet environs.
I agree, Kai_gold , cable clams (sometimes called cable glands) are great for the coil cable and headphones cable. Will compare Blue Sea Cable Clams to other manufacturers such as UKMarine. I'm now looking for the means to control the knobs and push switches for gb, + and -.
I've found rubber boots by Zago and APM Hexseal. If these can be mated with a spring-loaded plunger that has sufficient travel, one can activate the ground balance/pinpointing, + and - switches. The lid of the waterproof box may have to be reinforced by adding ribs under it. Drilling 5 holes for the various control actuators (2 knobs, 3 push-style) will definitely weaken it; the action of pushing plungers may also cause it to flex and compromise the seals.
Will keep looking for a way to make the 2 knobs operable from outside the housing.
Note: I'm thinking of fashioning a base plate to be mounted to the main unit. the base plate can then be clamped into or slid into position inside the housing on friction runners. Gotta make it easy to remove the main unit to swap batteries while still maintaining the position in the housing so that the alignment to the 5 actuators will not be compromised.
Thanks for the URL, Godigit1 . It looks OK, but I'd want to have the ability to use the controls while in wet environs.
I agree, Kai_gold , cable clams (sometimes called cable glands) are great for the coil cable and headphones cable. Will compare Blue Sea Cable Clams to other manufacturers such as UKMarine. I'm now looking for the means to control the knobs and push switches for gb, + and -.
I've found rubber boots by Zago and APM Hexseal. If these can be mated with a spring-loaded plunger that has sufficient travel, one can activate the ground balance/pinpointing, + and - switches. The lid of the waterproof box may have to be reinforced by adding ribs under it. Drilling 5 holes for the various control actuators (2 knobs, 3 push-style) will definitely weaken it; the action of pushing plungers may also cause it to flex and compromise the seals.
Will keep looking for a way to make the 2 knobs operable from outside the housing.
Note: I'm thinking of fashioning a base plate to be mounted to the main unit. the base plate can then be clamped into or slid into position inside the housing on friction runners. Gotta make it easy to remove the main unit to swap batteries while still maintaining the position in the housing so that the alignment to the 5 actuators will not be compromised.