Mike Hillis
Well-known member
Hi Guys,
I have a Bounty Hunter Tracker IV that has a broken On/Off/Gain switch. The potentiometer has two connector "cards" I guess you'd call them, where the leads are that connect to the PCB, and the front "card" next to the faceplate has broken away from the pot. The result is the inability to turn the detector on or off unless you hold the pot closed, and even then it generates constant static, so it needs to be replaced. (The constant static is what caused me to trouble shoot it).
I called BH to see if I could just buy the pot but was told no and the factory repair cost on this inexpensive unit isn't attractive. Hate to toss it for the lack of a five dollar part.
I'll de-solder the pot this weekend and see if I can find a marking on the panel side to help me purchase a replacement, but thought I would ask on here too just in case someone knew the answer.
Thanks,
HH
Mike
PS...the PCB looks good. Surface mounted components, effective use of space.
I have a Bounty Hunter Tracker IV that has a broken On/Off/Gain switch. The potentiometer has two connector "cards" I guess you'd call them, where the leads are that connect to the PCB, and the front "card" next to the faceplate has broken away from the pot. The result is the inability to turn the detector on or off unless you hold the pot closed, and even then it generates constant static, so it needs to be replaced. (The constant static is what caused me to trouble shoot it).
I called BH to see if I could just buy the pot but was told no and the factory repair cost on this inexpensive unit isn't attractive. Hate to toss it for the lack of a five dollar part.
I'll de-solder the pot this weekend and see if I can find a marking on the panel side to help me purchase a replacement, but thought I would ask on here too just in case someone knew the answer.
Thanks,
HH
Mike
PS...the PCB looks good. Surface mounted components, effective use of space.