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Tiger Shark,Performance,,???
- Thread starter comcat
- Start date
They are great in the freshwater lakes, salt water I don't know, but freshwater in Kansas, it is great. I've had mine for 11 years, will get the depth similar to land Tesoros, And they run quiet in the Iron.
Mine is the one with interchangable coils, but have only used the stock 8" coil, it has good coverage and discriminates well in the small iron debris, completely ignores bobby pins and small rubbish.
Mine is the one with interchangable coils, but have only used the stock 8" coil, it has good coverage and discriminates well in the small iron debris, completely ignores bobby pins and small rubbish.
The Tiger Shark is great in fresh water, but in salt water and wet salt sand I found the it gave constant chatter. The only way to stop it was to put it into salt mode and dramatically drop the sensitivity, which costs you a lot of depth.
The only place I wouldn't recommend the Tiger Shark is the wet salt sand or surf. Everywhere else it is a great detector.
The only place I wouldn't recommend the Tiger Shark is the wet salt sand or surf. Everywhere else it is a great detector.
I had some serious falsing on my unit in salt mode in shallow water (knee deep) and I was not able to groundbalance in the water (it was possible outside). What would be the best procedure to set up the Tiger Shark to salt conditions? How low can I go with sensitivity not to loose to much depth? How much depth should I get with a salt water stable Tiger Shark for a normal sized coin (say US copper penny) in air test? I would like to set up my detector before going to the beach. I plan to get a dedicated salt water machine soon, but I want to use the TS first (which I use for fresh water normally).
Follow the manual on ground balancing on the water. Turn your disc up just past foil. Turn your sensitivity down.
The most important thing about any signal is salt water is whether it's repeatable. I have found that false signals tend to occur under the following conditions in the ocean:
- at the endpoints of each sweep
- when you accidentally hit bottom with the coil
- when you move the coil too abruptly
- when there is too much black sand and bits of rusty iron all over the place
There's a simple way to deal with the first three conditions: Just focus on the middle portion of each sweep when you hear the signal. If you get a signal that happens only at the endpoints of your sweep, not in the center, it is a false.
The fourth condition might mean you'll have to try a different beach, but turning down the sensitivity can help a great deal. You should still be able to find coins, but you won't be picking up every tiny piece of crumpled-up foil or flake of rusty iron. Of course, some of those small-metal signals could be thin gold chains, so maybe you'd better dig them!
Once you master the learning curve for dealing with false signals, processing the audio and visual data through the best computer in the world (your brain), you can get good results with this metal detector in the ocean. If you try different areas and settings, you can develop a good feel for these techniques in as little as two or three trips out.
The unit was clearly able to handle the salt water, but the ocean became too rough for my liking as clouds rolled in and it became windy. Too many facefuls of water finally took their toll. I can't count how many times I dropped the scoop or how many times a wave knocked the coil flat up against the shaft while I was trying to detect. Fighting the waves can take the starch out of a person pretty quickly.
The most important thing about any signal is salt water is whether it's repeatable. I have found that false signals tend to occur under the following conditions in the ocean:
- at the endpoints of each sweep
- when you accidentally hit bottom with the coil
- when you move the coil too abruptly
- when there is too much black sand and bits of rusty iron all over the place
There's a simple way to deal with the first three conditions: Just focus on the middle portion of each sweep when you hear the signal. If you get a signal that happens only at the endpoints of your sweep, not in the center, it is a false.
The fourth condition might mean you'll have to try a different beach, but turning down the sensitivity can help a great deal. You should still be able to find coins, but you won't be picking up every tiny piece of crumpled-up foil or flake of rusty iron. Of course, some of those small-metal signals could be thin gold chains, so maybe you'd better dig them!
Once you master the learning curve for dealing with false signals, processing the audio and visual data through the best computer in the world (your brain), you can get good results with this metal detector in the ocean. If you try different areas and settings, you can develop a good feel for these techniques in as little as two or three trips out.
The unit was clearly able to handle the salt water, but the ocean became too rough for my liking as clouds rolled in and it became windy. Too many facefuls of water finally took their toll. I can't count how many times I dropped the scoop or how many times a wave knocked the coil flat up against the shaft while I was trying to detect. Fighting the waves can take the starch out of a person pretty quickly.
jim palmer
New member
Tiger sharks really bite hard on gold...
TheOtherLeggoHead
Member
Mosin Nagant?