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This is my new hunting strategy...

Critterhunter

New member
when I'm not out scouting out new virgin sites...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?18,1420731,1420731#msg-1420731
 
Way back when there were detectors with little or no discrimination that is the way we hunted. Grid an area, dig it all, go back and grid from opposite direction & do the same. We dug a bunch of junk but got some nice silver & rings too. Unfortunately/fortunately those detectors couldn't get deeper than 6 inches on a good day so even "cleaned out" areas became productive again. To really succeed in the dirt grid, go AM , set it hot and dig every beep-FORGET DISCRIMINATION .....JMHO
 
Yes it can work, but in a nice old park you have to watch not to dig too much or it will look like it was ploughed with all the holes you will be digging. In a old Field it would be great to do this and you maybe surprised at what you will find.
Back in 1973 when I started detecting we didn't have disc on our detectors so we went more by what each target sounded like and could tell on some of the good and the bad and this is the years we found lot of gold rings as we went more by size and such and there were lot of rusty bottle caps, but not too many pull tabs back then.
The first rule we found out when disc came out is not to trust it as it was wrong many times and go by what the target sounded wise by size and how far you could lift the coil and still get the signal. Many things have changed over the years and why I like the Sovereigns in disc as they give you so much info on each target it see, you just got to learn its language and understand what it is saying. I have done what you are saying, but use the disc at 0 on the Sovereign, go real slow and listen close to each tone change or a blips of a positive target and will dig some iron too that can fool you, but dig a lot less holes that those running all metal, but remember you have to understand the Sovereign.
 
F75 would be awesome for this set in all metal and dig it all, would take a load of time so like Rick says you gotta pick your location carefully as you will be doing alot of digging damage to the soil.

have a look on the dankowski website, pretty sure he has a story there where he did this. I think he started out with a CZ in all metal and then finished off with one of those minelab gold machines, gpx or whatever they are called. he actually tells you how many of each target he found and so forth, its an interesting read.
 
Rick(ND) said:
Yes it can work, but in a nice old park you have to watch not to dig too much or it will look like it was ploughed with all the holes you will be digging. In a old Field it would be great to do this and you maybe surprised at what you will find.
Back in 1973 when I started detecting we didn't have disc on our detectors so we went more by what each target sounded like and could tell on some of the good and the bad and this is the years we found lot of gold rings as we went more by size and such and there were lot of rusty bottle caps, but not too many pull tabs back then.
The first rule we found out when disc came out is not to trust it as it was wrong many times and go by what the target sounded wise by size and how far you could lift the coil and still get the signal. Many things have changed over the years and why I like the Sovereigns in disc as they give you so much info on each target it see, you just got to learn its language and understand what it is saying. I have done what you are saying, but use the disc at 0 on the Sovereign, go real slow and listen close to each tone change or a blips of a positive target and will dig some iron too that can fool you, but dig a lot less holes that those running all metal, but remember you have to understand the Sovereign.
When I started early 60's with a D-Tex BFO you just dug it all-period Back then no one even knew what U were doing and you could hunt anywhere taking care to fill your holes & properly cut a hinged plug. Of course there came the slobs & things went down hill from there but what a ride while it lasted
 
Good point about watching all your digging in a small area like that and maybe getting kicked out. I plan to use my Propointer to pinpoint and remove what I can with a screwdriver first. What you have to dig use a 3 sided plug with a side still attached to act like a hinge and clean it up real nice to hide it when done, otherwise you are asking for trouble.

Even if the old machines back in the day were used to dig everything like said they didn't get good depth and ground minerals could have cost them the target too. Not to mention they had less ability to see coins next to iron and such which may to this day only give a junky response but aty least enough of a response above iron to dig.

I probably wouldn't dig iron unless I was getting some kind of non-iron junky response from it, so that's why using a small coil at first is important to muster at least some kind of response above iron. Then again, if it was a solid null one might want to remove all the iron by probing if it was shallow enough.

Even junky/ghostly/weak signals from small pieces of foil should be removed as if it's shallower than the coin the coil detection field will not go past even a tiny bit of foil and see the coin.
 
Also, I plan to categorize all my trash/ring/coin numbers for each grid. After a while I should be able to come up with some averages for this park as to how many old coins or rings/other good finds come from how many grid blocks and how many trash targets were removed. Down the road I'll write up a report on it.
 
Critterhunter said:
Also, I plan to categorize all my trash/ring/coin numbers for each grid. After a while I should be able to come up with some averages for this park as to how many old coins or rings/other good finds come from how many grid blocks and how many trash targets were removed. Down the road I'll write up a report on it.

U have to much time on your hands!!!!!:rofl:
 
Critterhunter said:
Good point about watching all your digging in a small area like that and maybe getting kicked out. I plan to use my Propointer to pinpoint and remove what I can with a screwdriver first. What you have to dig use a 3 sided plug with a side still attached to act like a hinge and clean it up real nice to hide it when done, otherwise you are asking for trouble.

Even if the old machines back in the day were used to dig everything like said they didn't get good depth and ground minerals could have cost them the target too. Not to mention they had less ability to see coins next to iron and such which may to this day only give a junky response but aty least enough of a response above iron to dig.

I probably wouldn't dig iron unless I was getting some kind of non-iron junky response from it, so that's why using a small coil at first is important to muster at least some kind of response above iron. Then again, if it was a solid null one might want to remove all the iron by probing if it was shallow enough.

Even junky/ghostly/weak signals from small pieces of foil should be removed as if it's shallower than the coin the coil detection field will not go past even a tiny bit of foil and see the coin.
U are right about the depth of the old machines but as far as being masked not a problem as a beep was a beep and we dug it all-copper, silver, gold and iron and just think NO PULL TABS!!!!
 
Yea, but if you were getting a huge signal from a large/thick bed of nails were you digging targets like that that were say 2 feet wide? That's when being able to see a small coin blib mixed in that one big signal is a plus.
 
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