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the red baron

antonio24

New member
I have a detector the red baron and was burning
A transistor just where this number will only see one achievement numbers not if 58A Or 38A in trade not found
Seems to lack a letter was not asked whether someone can help me please
Thanks:help: :help: :help: :help: :help:
 
I say replace Transistors at 38B and 58B, and trade in your Red Baron for a new T4....Lack of letters can lead to a bad day of detecting...j/k

BH-LandStar
 
In all seriousness, please post your question again...
So far all I understand (I think) is that you have a burnt part on the board of your Red Baron??


HH,

BH-LandStar
 
Is to burn this transistor and not if 38A or 58A or if you have a point ahead (b58A example) so, the bad thing is that burning half of the transistor (the number) and one bad thing is that I do not speak English if not Spanish (use translator)
 
Antonio24, try write in Espanol por favor, so to ask for translator
into Engles by forum member? Gracias/gratia.
Me only comprende poquito Espanol.
..W
 
Bueno, sabes es que tengo el detector y se le quemo un transistor lo malo que justo fue en el lado del numero aunque se le puede ver un poco de los n
 
From what I can tell he has burned a transistor in his detector. It is burned where the part number is printed and he can't tell if the number is 38 or 58.
 
Google Translate beta:
Well, I know is that the detector and was burning a transistor evil that was just on the side of the number although he can see a little bit of numbers, when we see an 8A first and then with special lenses between a divise 5 or 3 and that's my question that I do not know if it is a 58 or 38 is to see that it could also be that a letter would forward the truth is not. We would appreciate your help

bendorfold translate:
Well, all I know is that the detector has a badly burnt transistor on the side with the numbers. Although we can see a little bit of the number, when we look with a magnifying glass, we can't decide if it's a 5 or a 3 and that's my question. I don't know if it is a 58 or a 38, there could also be a letter before that. We would appreciate your help.

If someone has a Red Baron, could you get the numbers off the transistor(s). A photo would be nice.
 
If anyone can translate to him, tell him the board location is of no concern...All he needs to do is to know what the part itself is...I take it it is probably an electrolytic capacitor...He only needs to know it's value and voltage rating, then unsolder the bad part, and replace it with a new part, and pray that something else on the board did not cause the part failure...Best to tell him to give it to someone who knows electronics...I am sure it can be repaired, but at what cost...Unless he really wants to keep this thing, he should just upgrade to a T4 or better...

HH,

BH-LandStar
 
Know its an old thread but had the same problem on one I'm in the process of repairing (mostly sentimental reasons- been in the family since new). Anyways its a MPS3638A (or 3638A transistor) most likely (same one on mine). There are a few of them in there. Often the ICs go bad too is seems to usually should be replaced as well. From what I hear its usually the power board so shouldn't need to mess around with anything else. On the ICs sockets are recommended (at least by Conan) and make a lot of sense. Should change the batter out for a Lipo of the CORRECT VOLTAGE and amperage (NOT 9V batteries). Otherwise you will just burn it out again. Sometimes the original battery packs also grounded out and short the circuit too. Hope this helps those poor souls who have the same issue.
 
I have an RB3 coming and plan to apply my many Beers of Experience to the several issues they have in common. Hopefully mine works, so we can go straight to the Beer-testing part! At least it has extra battery packs, assuming they're the correct type. Looked like new in the pics.

-Ed
 
If yours has the tantalum capacitors might want to check them with an ohm meter before powering up. After some research it seems that occasionally the tantalum caps go bad but unlike the electroltyics (which just leak or just act like a fuse and dead end/ break the circuit) tantalums short- can be pretty nasty and burn up ICs and transistors (some of which aren't easy to buy anymore). Tantalums normally last a long time but I suspect three of them are bad.:sad: So I will probablyt I have to replace a few more transistors and maybe some of the ICs (which I just replaced already- at least used the sockets so no soldering for them). Mine is from the 80s from the pics looks like certain years came with electrolyics. Make sure the battery holders don't short on the metal housing. Might want to make sure the power switch (DPST on the back of the volume pot) is still making all the contacts- seems to be a common problem. All Electrolytics should be replaced and verify the power hookups if suspect (another common problem). Hope comes workng though. In case it isn't there is a running thread on another site for this detector- pretty informative.
 
Thanks for the tips and heads up on the tantalums. I have a bad habit of just applying power first thing. I've read the RB thread over on the tech site.
-Ed
 
HELLO, I WANT TO AID IN MY RED BARON 7. BATTERY called "B" AND BURNED WITH INVERTED POLOS ANY COMPONENT, NOT THIS MORE PROPERLY MEASURING THE BATTERY "B". COMPONENT WHICH IS GIVING DEFECT, I'M FINDING THAT WAS THE MC 1496P. THANK YOU
 
HELLO, I WANT TO AID IN MY RED BARON 7. BATTERY called "B" AND BURNED WITH INVERTED POLOS ANY COMPONENT, NOT THIS MORE PROPERLY MEASURING THE BATTERY "B". COMPONENT WHICH IS GIVING DEFECT, I'M FINDING THAT WAS THE MC 1496P. THANK YOU
 
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