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Good point but my T2 won't pass that nail test, will yours? I used a rusty nail though...Keith Southern said:
Actually all of this is basically useless once you hit the dirt
I have seen detectors not even be able to do this till dirt is added to the mix then they do it better than the ones that airtest the trick better but suffer in the ground..
Keith Southern said:gotta be in one tone like he is though and disc enough to cancel the nail probably around 20-21 disc.. I will post up a video tomorrow !
Remember that once a nail is barely disced out and you sweep the nail and the target together it increases the snapshot of the target 2 different metals at the same time being analyzed combining the target raising it above nail disc enough to break through the disc..
Say the nail read's 20 and you disc it out... the coin reads 70 and the combined will still be way above the disc point so you get a hit..It wont be above 40 so dont use 2 tone it will call that target iron use 1 tone...
It's all about target surface area same trick with a railroad spike and the coin will not be heard... but put say a aluminum can under the spike and you will get a hit..
Now turn the nail sideways and the surface area for the sweep approach increases and then the target cant break through it's at 20 at most now unless you use say a silver dollar or such and then you will hear it but might only read say 50 when combined with the nail but would read 95 buy it's self..
Actually all of this is basically useless once you hit the dirt
I have seen detectors not even be able to do this till dirt is added to the mix then they do it better than the ones that airtest the trick better but suffer in the ground..
Keith
Keith provides a lot of beneficial info, too, and I have seen many cases where such 'brick tests" with iron nails and such just didn't cut it. Also, without the rejection level known, it makes it difficult to match the test settings, and as noted, the "brick" was not turned lengthwise. That alone can make a difference.earthmansurfer said:Thanks for the info Keith. That was pretty useful. I had my discrimination at 21 I believe and couldn't get the coin to sound with the nail 1" from it (and of course nothing when on it.)
For some of us, and in many ways, I have to agree about the performance 'edge' of the Omega and Gamma when using a similar search coil and side-by-side testing. Do I like the T[sup][size=small]2[/size][/sup] ? Yes, which is why I own one. Do I prefer to use my Omega 8000? Yes, I do, and there are reasons why, too.earthmansurfer said:It seems to me that the Omega 8000 is better with most things than the T2. Would you not agree? By reading here it seems that people are leaning in that way.
The T[sup][size=small]2[/size][/sup] has a somewhat different balance or feel. Not that the Omega is bad, they are just different and some prefer the T[sup][size=small]2[/size][/sup]. The 4 AA alkaline batteries to power a T[sup][size=small]2[/size][/sup] cost a little less than one equal-quality alkaline 9v battery and I like that. The trigger toggle to select Fast Grab or pinpoint is also a very nice function some prefer. In some applications, depending upon the ground mineral environment, I can get just slightly better depth of detection w/o visual TID.earthmansurfer said:What is the T2 better at ? Does it get maybe 1" more of depth? It seems that it's just a product of advancement in the electronics. Maybe the T2 has more functionality with Modes and a better interface (I like the knob and one button as well as the pull trigger pinpointing and GB.). Perhaps a price adjustment is in order? (And I don't mean to make the Omega more $$$!)