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Anonymous
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If you sent your explorer in for a cosmetic fix and you also asked it to be checked out for a possible electronic problem, would you expect it to be returned still having your same settings loaded?
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Anonymous
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The manual has a page for recording your settings. I'd write them all down.
Take digital pics of any discrimination patterns. They will be hard to remake, but they should help you recreate them. I don't think they would completely brain dump your machine, but they might set it back to factory defaults to test it.
I'd save user B and hope it comes back with all the savings intact.
HH
Rhoderman
Take digital pics of any discrimination patterns. They will be hard to remake, but they should help you recreate them. I don't think they would completely brain dump your machine, but they might set it back to factory defaults to test it.
I'd save user B and hope it comes back with all the savings intact.
HH
Rhoderman
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Anonymous
Guest
NOT speaking from a qualified "tech" position(as I am NOT). Just speaking from experience.
Yes,I would,if it's going back to Minelab. There is no reason why the info should have changed or why your settings need to be lost..... UNLESS the PCB, middle one of the three, that I am pretty sure has the chip that retains ALL that user input info,would need to be replaced. If you were experiencing a problem the I guess this is what has happened if you've lost this info.
OR
Though I don't think Minelab would indulge in simply doing control box "exchange" system when having to deal with cosmetics,but you never know, and maybe this might explain why ones indiviual settings and info is no longer there.
My understanding is that there is an pin/port diagnosis connection point/s inside the Explorer(looks like one similar to some oledr computer rs232 serial port connections, that permits the Minelab tech. to attach to the electronics to Minelabs daig equipment and determain if the Explorer is functioning properly. This connection point <span style="background-color:#ffff00;">might</span> even allow info transfer from detector to detector.
BUT
this is HIGHLY UNLIKELY TO HAPPEN to a qualified Minelab tech and these things usually occur in the hands of some really amatuer intrepid detector modifiers(myself included <img src="/metal/html/biggrin.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
"> )
.If the search coil cables are somehow accidently(you would not want to do this on puropose)shorted when the detector is on, Explorer will lose all user input info, though not the onboard defaults.
This shorting can happen even without attempting to experiement on the Explorer as there are other reasons why this shorting could happen.( I won't go into it TOO much).
Again I have simply put forward a point of view that might explain.
So CC, did this happen to you?
Does the Explorer function properly now?
Hard Nosed
Yes,I would,if it's going back to Minelab. There is no reason why the info should have changed or why your settings need to be lost..... UNLESS the PCB, middle one of the three, that I am pretty sure has the chip that retains ALL that user input info,would need to be replaced. If you were experiencing a problem the I guess this is what has happened if you've lost this info.
OR
Though I don't think Minelab would indulge in simply doing control box "exchange" system when having to deal with cosmetics,but you never know, and maybe this might explain why ones indiviual settings and info is no longer there.
My understanding is that there is an pin/port diagnosis connection point/s inside the Explorer(looks like one similar to some oledr computer rs232 serial port connections, that permits the Minelab tech. to attach to the electronics to Minelabs daig equipment and determain if the Explorer is functioning properly. This connection point <span style="background-color:#ffff00;">might</span> even allow info transfer from detector to detector.
BUT
this is HIGHLY UNLIKELY TO HAPPEN to a qualified Minelab tech and these things usually occur in the hands of some really amatuer intrepid detector modifiers(myself included <img src="/metal/html/biggrin.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
"> ).If the search coil cables are somehow accidently(you would not want to do this on puropose)shorted when the detector is on, Explorer will lose all user input info, though not the onboard defaults.
This shorting can happen even without attempting to experiement on the Explorer as there are other reasons why this shorting could happen.( I won't go into it TOO much).
Again I have simply put forward a point of view that might explain.
So CC, did this happen to you?
Does the Explorer function properly now?
Hard Nosed
A
Anonymous
Guest
What happened is I sent my xs in because of the floppy coil camlock thing. Before I sent it the detector it was having some noise problems. It took me a couple of hunts to realize my connection was being broken by the movement of the shaft in the camlock. I would have to unhook it and sometimes reset the detector to snap it out of this noisey stage. Anyway, that was my diagnosis not to say it was 100% correct.
I just received my detector back with the new housing but did notice my settings were the same. To test a detector properly I would expect the techs. to put it back to factory but maybe I'm wrong on this? Anyway, I was out with the detector and started to have some of the same type problems. I figured it was my x-1 probe but could not find any evidence that it was. Since that day (3 hunts ago) I put my probe on my other Explorer and it works A1, just as it had all along. Now that I'm convinced the probe was not the problem I will put the detector in question on a regular shaft set up and swing it for a few hours to test it out. I'm REALLY hoping there was interference of some sort affecting my detector that day as I REALLY don't want another shipping bill. I'll leave it at that for now because I am unsure of what the problem was that day but there is no doubt there was a problem.
PS To have a problem this time of year would really upset me, but my 2nd xs is working like a dream. I'm on my best detecting run in a while so that eases the pain a little <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=""> Thanks for the reply.
I just received my detector back with the new housing but did notice my settings were the same. To test a detector properly I would expect the techs. to put it back to factory but maybe I'm wrong on this? Anyway, I was out with the detector and started to have some of the same type problems. I figured it was my x-1 probe but could not find any evidence that it was. Since that day (3 hunts ago) I put my probe on my other Explorer and it works A1, just as it had all along. Now that I'm convinced the probe was not the problem I will put the detector in question on a regular shaft set up and swing it for a few hours to test it out. I'm REALLY hoping there was interference of some sort affecting my detector that day as I REALLY don't want another shipping bill. I'll leave it at that for now because I am unsure of what the problem was that day but there is no doubt there was a problem.
PS To have a problem this time of year would really upset me, but my 2nd xs is working like a dream. I'm on my best detecting run in a while so that eases the pain a little <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
"> Thanks for the reply.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Like i said,
"This shorting can happen even without attempting to experiement on the Explorer as there are other reasons why this shorting could happen.( I won't go into it TOO much)."
There have been many at time that I experienced problems similar to what you mention when engaging and extra search coil via a switch box.(Pic supplied) I use the X-1 or my m/l8 inch as a hand held seach coil. I've made and service my own switch box for any coils(Paid Ralph @ Sunray when I purchased the X-1 a while back ,the extra bucks to give me a standard coil connector with a straight non curly cable with the X-1.
This is why I am sure that when ever there is a problem the switch box would have been the first place to look.
I went nuts recenly <img src="/metal/html/confused.gif" border=0 width=15 height=22 alt=":?"> <img src="/metal/html/confused.gif" border=0 width=15 height=22 alt=":?"> when I cound't see or find ANY problems with my soldering or wiring in one of my new or old switch boxes when I attached it to my newly aquired EX2.
I narrowed it down to the X-1. the problem occured every time I moved the cable near to the point that it goes into the x-1.I guess all the use that my X-1 has had(lots that is)you would expect it. I popped the cable end cap off and saw that I had streched and fatguied the cable to break. cut and soldered the wires at that point, back together, insulated them from each other, Pushed the cap back on and taped and siliconed it and I was back on track. My Sunray X-1 probe works the way it should and like new. All those problems I was having just diappeared.
Point is that if you switch box is functioning and all else is working okay then it just <span style="background-color:#ffff00;">might</span> be the probe. Keep the probe plugged in and see if it see if it goes haywire when you twist the cable like when you are using it in the field. If it is NOPt this then it's back to the switch box or (gulp) the Explorer control box. Now ther is POSSIBLY an inherent production fault here that I have noticed that might be the cause of many problems and that has been visble on BOTH of my Explorer XS's. I don't know if it is an issue in my EX2 as I have yet to open it up. I eventually will open it up and see if the same problem has occurred.
Hard Nosed
"This shorting can happen even without attempting to experiement on the Explorer as there are other reasons why this shorting could happen.( I won't go into it TOO much)."
There have been many at time that I experienced problems similar to what you mention when engaging and extra search coil via a switch box.(Pic supplied) I use the X-1 or my m/l8 inch as a hand held seach coil. I've made and service my own switch box for any coils(Paid Ralph @ Sunray when I purchased the X-1 a while back ,the extra bucks to give me a standard coil connector with a straight non curly cable with the X-1.
This is why I am sure that when ever there is a problem the switch box would have been the first place to look.
I went nuts recenly <img src="/metal/html/confused.gif" border=0 width=15 height=22 alt=":?"> <img src="/metal/html/confused.gif" border=0 width=15 height=22 alt=":?"> when I cound't see or find ANY problems with my soldering or wiring in one of my new or old switch boxes when I attached it to my newly aquired EX2.
I narrowed it down to the X-1. the problem occured every time I moved the cable near to the point that it goes into the x-1.I guess all the use that my X-1 has had(lots that is)you would expect it. I popped the cable end cap off and saw that I had streched and fatguied the cable to break. cut and soldered the wires at that point, back together, insulated them from each other, Pushed the cap back on and taped and siliconed it and I was back on track. My Sunray X-1 probe works the way it should and like new. All those problems I was having just diappeared.
Point is that if you switch box is functioning and all else is working okay then it just <span style="background-color:#ffff00;">might</span> be the probe. Keep the probe plugged in and see if it see if it goes haywire when you twist the cable like when you are using it in the field. If it is NOPt this then it's back to the switch box or (gulp) the Explorer control box. Now ther is POSSIBLY an inherent production fault here that I have noticed that might be the cause of many problems and that has been visble on BOTH of my Explorer XS's. I don't know if it is an issue in my EX2 as I have yet to open it up. I eventually will open it up and see if the same problem has occurred.
Hard Nosed
A
Anonymous
Guest
It would depend on several variables but the Sl locations should be constant uless they are changed on purpose. A noise problem would not be associated with the S1 settings that you have saved. Therefore there would be no reason to expect them to be changed.
Noise problems are associated with the front end of the receiver and the coil. This really has nothing do do with S1 saved data. So, I would expect to see the setting just as they were when you sent the detector to them. If you could noise cancel or go to semi-auto and reduce the noise then you pretty much go to cables and connections of the coil to the receiver.
Testing for a noise problem would not involve S1 saved data unless you were having problem with programs and saved data. Memory problem would be the kind that might cause your S1 setting to be changed.
I guess you are wondering if they checked the detector for proper operation. I would say they did unless you had problem other than noise. Also, I am a Minelab dealer and talk with them and am confident they will do as you request on a repair.
HH, Cody
Noise problems are associated with the front end of the receiver and the coil. This really has nothing do do with S1 saved data. So, I would expect to see the setting just as they were when you sent the detector to them. If you could noise cancel or go to semi-auto and reduce the noise then you pretty much go to cables and connections of the coil to the receiver.
Testing for a noise problem would not involve S1 saved data unless you were having problem with programs and saved data. Memory problem would be the kind that might cause your S1 setting to be changed.
I guess you are wondering if they checked the detector for proper operation. I would say they did unless you had problem other than noise. Also, I am a Minelab dealer and talk with them and am confident they will do as you request on a repair.
HH, Cody
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Anonymous
Guest
In other words you feel they fixed the camlock but didn't even test it..At first I didn't know if you were afraid to lose delicate settings or the above..
For those that don't know Minelab U.S.A. is reinbursed by the mother company for work done and see no reason why they shouldn't test it. I imagine they have sophisticated testing equipment and would want to test it as sent in with your programs installed as in reallity they are installed when malfunctions occur. Only my lowly opinion but some have had minor problems and when they held the power button it sort of rebooted itself and worked perfect going back to factory settings and contunued to work well after aditional settings were installed..In addendum I feel the unit was tested and usually a work order comes back telling what was done which should further establish this..By the way have you had problems since it returned.
For those that don't know Minelab U.S.A. is reinbursed by the mother company for work done and see no reason why they shouldn't test it. I imagine they have sophisticated testing equipment and would want to test it as sent in with your programs installed as in reallity they are installed when malfunctions occur. Only my lowly opinion but some have had minor problems and when they held the power button it sort of rebooted itself and worked perfect going back to factory settings and contunued to work well after aditional settings were installed..In addendum I feel the unit was tested and usually a work order comes back telling what was done which should further establish this..By the way have you had problems since it returned.
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Anonymous
Guest
I had same problem a few months back. I was using my stock coil and it went crazy like I was detecting right near power lines. I turned sens down to single digits and was still twitchy. After a few trips out noticed it was only stock coil having the problem, but it was very intermittant. Noticed that when I extended or retracted the lower rod problem would get better or worse. Finally discovered that the cord clamp on the plug had caused a iffy connection on one of the coil wires. I cut off about an inch of the cord and resoldered the socket back on.
Try plugging the coil to the detector without the upper rod and wiggle, jiggle and twist the cord by the connection and see if you can cause it to twitch out.
chris
Try plugging the coil to the detector without the upper rod and wiggle, jiggle and twist the cord by the connection and see if you can cause it to twitch out.
chris
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