target id questions?:ausflag:

[blowfly1967]

i'm australian.faqfaq is very interesting especially if your american.everything i've read on this site about target identification,points at clad and wheaties.i thought this was an australian company"minelab",therefore we should australian values on the numbers,surely!!or are we to small to worry about,is the money better overseas.all i'd like is to be able to get feed back on our coins and what the numbers mean.incidently over here we uselly put sugar and milk on our wheaties and have them for breakfast pull tabs at 9.12,18 is so thrilling. what is -6 at 8 to 10 inches,sometimes 30 is good and sometimes it's a coke can.surely there is secret list out there somewhere that tells the less fortunate what the bl- - dy numbers mean. aussie that is.hoo roo see ya blowfly .

 

[BarnacleBill]

Minelab had nothing directly to do with creating the lists on this site. Much of that work was done by Digger with some contributions from others. I believe that even Digger's list is not comprehensive of all minted U.S. coinage and is still a work in progress. But the operative word is "work".

If anyone that visits the forum is willing to put in the work to create a list for their country/region, it will be heartily welcomed and included as a resource for other forum members. The forum is only as good as the members efforts to make it so, and there certainly have been some contributors from Oz that have provided some great content on this site; Marco, Mick etc, as well as others. The recent mod by PinPointa that was posted is a prime example, great stuff!

HH
BarnacleBill

 

[Android]

Sounds like you need to go use the machine and figure it out. I would dig all signals that repeat. I found the list to be a giude but not law.

 

[trueblue]

this will help you out Blowfly its an earlier post that I saved by gold rat

AS REQUESTED DIGGER


Target All Metal #1 Pattern #2 Pattern #3 Pattern
Old pull tab with large finger grip (ring only) style #1 18 12
Old pull tab with large finger grip (ring only) style #2 22 22
Old pull tab with large finger grip (ring + tab) style #3 20 22
................................................(tab only) 12 12
Old pull tab with large finger grip (ring only) style #4 14 14
2 hole pull tab style #1 12 12
2 hole pull tab style #2 18 nil (couldn't get a TID)
2 hole pull tab style #3 14 16
1/2 a 2 hole pull tab (top 1/2) 12 12
1/2 a 2 hole pull tab (bottom 1/2) 16 16
Soft drink bottle pull tab not thread style 12 12
Crown seals (beach) tested 6 with large variance 16 - 48 28 - 46
Silver foil (several layers 1/2" length) 4 nil (couldn't get a TID)
Silver foil (several layers 1" length) 4 6
Old Spoons ( different alloys) 10 -22 8 - 24
Shot Gun cartridge ( beach)(mineralised) 10 10
Shot Gun cartridge (site inland) 22 22
22 bullet shell 8 8
Slag (beach)(maybe result of welding boat hull etc) 24 24
Steel washer (bright 1") 6 6
Brass washer (1/2") 34 34
Copper nail 24 24
Steel Nail (beach heavily mineralised 3") -6 nil
Aluminium can (top only) 34 34


COINS (pre decimal 1966) All Metal #1 Pattern #2 Pattern #3 Pattern

3d (threepence) 1950 (50%silver,40%copper,5%zinc,5%nickel) 22 22 nil 22 "sports ground closed circa 1955"
3d (threepence) 1949 (50%silver,40%copper,5%zinc,5%nickel) 12 12 12 12 "this coin very eroded from beach"
6d (sixpence) 1951 (50%silver,40%copper,5%zinc,5%nickel) 30 nil 30 30 "sports ground closed circa 1955"
1/- (one shilling) 1952 (50%silver, 40%copper,5%zinc,5%nickel) 34 34 34 34 "sports ground closed circa 1955"
1d (one penny) 1927 (97%copper, 2.5%zinc,.5%tin) 38 40 36 36 "sports ground closed cica 1955"
1d (one penny) 1916 (97%copper,2.5%zinc,.5%tin) 34 32 32 32 "Tasmanian Goldfield mineralised poor condition)
1d (one penny)(English) 1891 no info on composition 32 32 32 32 "Tasmanian Goldfield mineralised poor condition)

COINS (decimal currency post1966)

1c (one cent)(97%copper,2.5%zinc,.5%tin) 34 34 34 34
2c (two cent)(97%copper,2.5%zinc,.5%tin) 38 40 38 38
5c(five cent)(75%copper,25%nickel) 8 8 8 8
10c(ten cents)(75%copper,25%nickel) 12 12 12 12
20c(twenty cents)(75%copper,25%nickel) 20 22 nil 20
50c(fifty cents)(75%copper,25%nickel) 24 24 nil 24
$1(one dollar)(92%copper,6%aluminium,2%nickel) 32 32 32 32
$2(two dollar)(92%cupro nickel,6%aluminium,2%nickel) 30 34 30 30


Digger,
I have noticed that some patterns do knock out certain coins.
Coins with similar compositions have larger TID's depending on size of coin.
Coins eroded by ground mineralisation have lower TID's to coins in good condition.
I hope this info is a help or of interest to all the forum members.
Any interesting relics or coins I find I will post.
It's low tide where I live and I'm going wading for one of our most popular crustaecans " blue swimmer crabs "
Legal size 12cms (5") (or larger) between the carapice or about 20" from claw to claw.
Do you have any type of crab catching like this off the beach!!!!!

happy hunting

gold rat

"HH" trueblue

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

Blowfly.
If you go to FAQFAQ and scan down till you find Gold rats Australian TID list of Aussie coins, it will give you a good start.
I use the 30, so I can't give you 70 numbers, but they will put you in the ball park. Android is correct about the numbers serving as a guide only. A $1 coin will give a solid 32 on the 30, but I have seen one that has had some corrosion on it, pull the number down to 24. $2 coins will mostly come up as a 32, but can bounce down to a 28 sometimes.
The primary reason that I don't own a 70 (apart from parting with more of the folding stuff) is the fact that the more refined discrimination doesn't really offer any real edge on our gold coins. I don't know if there is any difference on the pull tabs and our 10c pieces, but as they are only separated by 1 number on my Explorer, they may well show up on the same notch. All it takes, is for a coin to be angled in the ground and the numbers can be thrown off. On edge, they can read another number higher ( I don't know if the 70 does this, but have noticed that on my GTI) but often they will read a notch lower. I would geusstemate that 70% of coins found, would be flat to the coil though. I'm not knocking the 70,; from the short time I played with one, I was quite impressed with it. I simply can't justify the upgrade.
Gold Rat's list was not extensive and as it's late here, I won't be able to give you some more numbers to more of our pre-decimals tonight, so I'll do that tomorrow night. The only number that I can tell you straight off the bat, is our gold sovereigns. On the 30, they are a solid 24. Just like our 50c.
Till tomorrow.
Mick Evans.
P.S. Listening to the VCO when you pinpoint, will also serve as further information as to a targets size, if they are close to the surface. Quite useful on screw caps.

 

[Digger]

As a couple guys referenced, gold rat shared some of his Australian TID numbers on this forum nearly a year ago. And like many other subjects that were frequently asked about, I copied it to the FAQFAQ section. http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,586883,590684#msg-590684


The information available at this site is due to the efforts of those who are willing to learn their detectors and share their opinions. If you come up with another TID for Australian targets, or any other useful X-Terra information, feel free to post it so others can benefit.



HH
Randy

 

[brissietex]

David Cooper of the fine Treasure Enterprises here in Brisbane gave me an Aussie coin chart. I still have it around here somewhere. I can send you a scanned PDF of it if you would like.

It is a pretty decent guide but definitely isn't gospel due to ground conditions, corrosion/condition of target, target alignment/depth in relation to coil, coil size/freq, localised interference, moon/planet alignment, detector's mood that day, wife's/partner's mood that day, what juice the local transients were drinking that day, etc etc. I've dug up "gold" (1 and 2 dollar coins) that was more than few numbers off what the chart says they should be. Go figure...as they say, you'll never know what is truly under your coil until you dig it up.

cheers...Keith

 

[James/Washington]

starting in this detecting fun. If you are then I suggest that you DIG ALL TARGETS, no matter the TID reading for a month or even more! Newbies need to know how to communicate with their detectors. You can NEVER, with 100% accuracy, tell what a target is unless you dig it. The detector is just giving hints of what the target might be. There are just way too many things that influence the detectors TID for them to be 100% correct every time. This goes for every detector ever made , or that will ever be made. The only way to guestimate what the target may be requires that you are knowledgeable of your detector and the environment around you and have the detector properly set up. After a month or two, maybe more, you won't need no stinking chart. Good advice is to find someone that is knowledgeable to go detecting with. My best advice is to practice, practice, practice. I wish you the best of luck.

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

n/t

 

[blowfly1967]

thank you barnaclebill for your help and all the rest who have shown me where to find the info.i didn't know of gold rats post and since reading it all i can think of saying is "wow!!"he really researched the task at hand,i thank him too.blowfly

 

[blowfly1967]

thank you trueblue you certainly have eased the way with gold rats post,i'll print off a copy to carry until i know it all by heart blowfly .mick from dubbo,i have an x terra 50.i'm
somewhat like you i didn't need the 70! if the day ever arrives and my wife agrees to go gold hunting i would take my vaquero.the only reason. i bought the 50 was for the parks so i wouldn't have to make a lot of holes.the vaquero ,with a sand scoop is great on a beach blowfly hh

 

[Kiwi]

This might sound like a silly question but........... would the target ID the same for all the models ie 30,50 & 70 if they were all set the same, ground balance, sensitivity etc and all metal ?

 

[blowfly1967]

the responce to my question has been awesome,just one more little question?what maybe are gold and silver numbers likely to be mind you as guide only?you know there is jewellery out there too! smile one and all and i'll try and behave. hoo roo see ya blowfly hh

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

Blowfly.
If you are referring to coins, then the numbers tend to be the same most of the time. Once you start getting 4 or 5 arrows showing, then the numbers will tend to be lower. That happens to all detectors on deep coins. Our post 1945 coins (50% silvers) and small silvers like the three pence and six pence, will hit around the 32 mark. A post 1945 florin, gives an even bounce between 32 and 36 on my X-Terra 30. So does a 1c piece. A full silver florin gives a solid 40, same as a penny. A half penny comes in at 36, same as a 2c piece.
If you are talking about rings, if you recover targets from about 12 to 24, then that will cover most gold rings. Silver rings hit like our gold coins (32). Rings, although they could show up over these ranges, will tend to give a steady signal like a coin.
Mick Evans.

 

[BarnacleBill]

Looking at Digger's ID chart and zeroing in on the 40% silver nickel shows some of the variability between models. They can coincide or be close, but not always, however, they should not be way off with a few exceptions like U.S.Indian Head Cents.

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,493598,493651#msg-493651

But there are many circumstances that can make it difficult to establish ID's to a certainty. i.e. Our neighbors to the North(Canada) have steel core clad coins. Approach the coin with the coil in one plane it reads Silver, approach it in another plane it reads Iron. Therefore a little mental exercise after the coil's swung over the target.

1. It's one of those danged Eh! coins from the frozen North.
2. It's a Silver or Copper coin next to a piece of Iron.
3. It's a rusty steel crimp on bottle cap that's falsing as a coin.
4. Ground conditions are throwing off the ID.

What action you take next depends on many factors, dig or not dig is the question!

My guess is 40% will pass it over, 30% will dig(beep diggers), 30% will dig a shallow plug to allow the detector to get a better look at the target for further evaluation. A long time detectorist can fall into any of those three categories depending on; fatigue, state of mind, weather, insects, time of day, time constraints, target depth, ground conditions etc.

If your coinage is made of composite metals then it may never be 100% accurate as the detector gets a different view on each sweep.

HH
BarnacleBill

 

[Digger]

In remember making several posts about jewelry and where it might read on the X-Terra TID. In doing a quick search, I've located these articles that should help answer your questions.



http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,510032,510042#msg-510042

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,391759,391799#msg-391799

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,427625,427684#msg-427684

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,569213,569213#msg-569213

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,569213,569213#msg-569213

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?55,560543,560557#msg-560557


I'm sure there are more posts pertaining to the topic of gold jewelry. But these will give you a start. HH Randy

 

[blowfly1967]

mick it really comes down to operating in all metal until i learn this machine . this morning i did just that ,the $8.70 not a lot and the trash kept me going for two and half hours .i'll learn! to barnaclebill and randy i think i might have opened a can of worms but neverless thank you again for supplying me the info. i have a lot of catch up reading to do.fair dinkum cobbers! hoo roo,see ya! blowfly hh

 

[Lou from downunder]

Hi guys,

I, like Mick, am an unashamed modern coin hunter.
Best day... $99.50. But even on a bad day will pick up over $50.00 in coins.
Hunt mostly playgrounds with that lovely golden brown wood chip fall cushioner that positively gobbles up coins, especially my beloved "goldies".
Have you ever dropped a coin that you were rubbing the dirt off of over this material?
GONE! Just about need to re-detect it.
These areas are generally serious trash free.
I hunt in prospect mode for I find that in C/T it sounds off and displays numbers on all sorts of tiny pieces of "stuff". In prospect, unless the target is really deep, which is unlikely in our hammered playgrounds, the signal is short and sharp. I run in all metal to avoid the constant nulling on tiny pieces of ferrous.
When I get that nice short, sharp, "good" sounding signal I switch to C/T mode to see what numbers come up.
Minus numbers are obviously ferrous, numbers from 2 to 6 probably foil, 8 onwards, dig everything.
On my machine, a 70, square tabs read from 14 to 18, depending on size, proximity etc. and as such would ignore them..... until....
This day I was checking out a playground in the middle of some soccer grounds, only to find I'd been beaten to the punch, no targets at all until at the swings,{saving the best till last},I get a good signal.
Checking in C/T reveals numbers 16-18. In disgust I give the chips a kick to find 22ct 8.4 gram mens signet ring smiling up at me. Melt value,$200 plus.
I have a collection of 40 gold rings, mostly found in the water with an Excalibur 1000, and ran them past the 70 that night to see what numbers they registered at.
Lets just say I was truley horrified to realize what I might have left behind in the past year.
Some of the finer rings were coming in at 4-6. General, run of the mill rings from 14-16, same as pull tabs!

Moral of the story....
Its easy to become lazy and overly rely on numbers to make your mind up for you, but if you don't want to miss anything good, then you can't get hung up on numbers, unless they're minus numbers, and dig EVERYTHING!

Cheers Lou.

 

[blowfly1967]

hi lou ,i'm just starting out with the fifty.it's what i wanted regardless of the flack i have other machines.i like this one.i ran all of our coins on the ground to check them against what list i have and found that they nearly matched up ,except that $1.0 coins are not 30,but respond to 33.33on my cheat sheet is 3d or 1 s in the old scale.i walked past heaps of these this mornig because i said no way! i operate all my machines in all metal how ever i sometimes slacken off and do it easy,then i spit the dummy and go back and do it properly. your disclosed finds say you must live in a city somewhere,where?if you say cairns,then i'll understand where all my finds have gone.hoo roo blowfly hh

 

[Lou from downunder]

G'day Blowfly,

Your goodies are safe from me.
I'm from Melbourne, the home of 1000 playgrounds!

Cheers Lou.