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T2 Waterproofing question
- Thread starter Terry
- Start date
Ed in SoDak
Member
Well, both my original and replacement coil leak, so I'd suppose most if not all of that $50 must go towards sealing that up. I'm of the opinion it oughta come that way, as about all coils for any top brand detector are waterproof and can be expected to contact dew on the grass at least, if not a complete dunking in a creek. The T2 does not appear to be a beach machine, but it is presented as useful for prospecting. I've heard in creeks is a good place to hunt for gold, so I think they dropped the ball here. At least you can pay the extra bucks and have it added.
I have no idea what they do, but I'd just trundle myself down to the hardware store, choose my own sealant and apply it to any seams on the outside, then test. Problem might be if I miss some tiny pinhole or two, it would still eventually get damp inside and take forever to dry out. A ziplock bag could be used a watershield for the electronics and display. The $41.37 I'd have left out of that $50 would buy a lot of batteries or gas for the truck!
Has anyone else tried sealing the searchcoil themselves?
-Ed
I have no idea what they do, but I'd just trundle myself down to the hardware store, choose my own sealant and apply it to any seams on the outside, then test. Problem might be if I miss some tiny pinhole or two, it would still eventually get damp inside and take forever to dry out. A ziplock bag could be used a watershield for the electronics and display. The $41.37 I'd have left out of that $50 would buy a lot of batteries or gas for the truck!
Has anyone else tried sealing the searchcoil themselves?
-Ed
I've hunted with the T2 for a whole year now and aside from the known problems of bumping the the setting dial, and being slightly tippy, I've used it more often than my explorer. The main reason is the 1800's ghost town we've been concentrating on is full of iron and the T2 works better than the explorer. The reason I sent it in for repair was the headphone jack stopped working, which they are going to repair for nothing, but they asked if I wanted the $50.00 waterproofing. That's why I'm asking....thanks for the reply's.
Ed in SoDak
Member
Yeah, it'd be nice to know specifics. I'm sure my homebrew solution would look like just that. Maybe they also seal the brainbox. The coil could apparently benefit from any type of effective sealant, there's enough reports of leaky coils to show that's an ongoing problem. First Texas has traditionally been pretty good about doing needed repairs, such as your headphone jack, but I also know they are deep into the R&D and production costs on these coils already. If they have a post-production solution, they should immediately apply it to all future coils so future purchasers don't need to make this decision.
-Ed
-Ed
Ed in SoDak
Member
Well, that's not totally correct. Water inside the coil housing usually renders the detector useless till the coil is dried out. Once it is dried, it again works normally.
Assuming my T2 coil to be waterproof, I detected a shallow creek. It soon became "wonky," and I had to put it back in the car and get out my Time Ranger, which, incidentally is well-sealed. A few days later the T2 coil dried out and worked fine once again. Figuring a leaky coil was defective and also trying to address a relatively severe sounding-off whenever the coil was bumped, I emailed my dealer and the company and they specifically asked for its return, so it could be destructively tested to try to find the reason. I received a new coil and also got the r6 upgrade at that time. The new coil was free but I paid for the upgrade.
Next time I had the coil in the water, it again misbehaved, so I let it dry out and now avoid dunking it and try to keep dew, etc. wiped down during use. I'll probably just do the homebrew application of epoxy or something to seal the seams and wire entry point.
While I understand the bean-counters are probably "underwater" with coil development R&D costs, a waterproof coil is such an industry-wide defacto standard, that I balk at their apparent policy on this issue.
-Ed
Assuming my T2 coil to be waterproof, I detected a shallow creek. It soon became "wonky," and I had to put it back in the car and get out my Time Ranger, which, incidentally is well-sealed. A few days later the T2 coil dried out and worked fine once again. Figuring a leaky coil was defective and also trying to address a relatively severe sounding-off whenever the coil was bumped, I emailed my dealer and the company and they specifically asked for its return, so it could be destructively tested to try to find the reason. I received a new coil and also got the r6 upgrade at that time. The new coil was free but I paid for the upgrade.
Next time I had the coil in the water, it again misbehaved, so I let it dry out and now avoid dunking it and try to keep dew, etc. wiped down during use. I'll probably just do the homebrew application of epoxy or something to seal the seams and wire entry point.
While I understand the bean-counters are probably "underwater" with coil development R&D costs, a waterproof coil is such an industry-wide defacto standard, that I balk at their apparent policy on this issue.
-Ed
Ed in SoDak
Member
Thanks Nick! Looks like we'd get more than some sealant on the coil for our 50 bucks, which is good. Still not worth it to me, though. I like the current handle, I can solder in my own new trigger switch if need be and I put a piece of foam weatherstripping on the side of the battery compartments and stretched the springs out a bit to solve that issue.
I'm the Tim Taylor of electronics. Remember "More Power!!" from the Tool Time TV show? For years I've never been afraid to re-engineer almost any comsumer product. Take a great product idea, toss in enough bean-counters, and there's always room for simple overhauls and improvements by just replacing the cheapo parts when they fail with something more robust. Take something as simple as a battery clip or coil connector. Very easy to find much better replacements that end your frustration with parts that can't handle abuse.
I've always held the opinion that what makes the mark between a low-buck and a great product is the quality level of the parts. This can be seen everywhere, but especially in electronics. Back in the hey-days of high-powered stereos, the circuits progressed to the point that they all sounded about the same. The only was to achive distinction was in that silky-smooth control action. That, or the addition of umpteen connection facilities, which usually consisted of the addition of so many extra jacks or buttons and switches that the other guy didn't have. Once this became the selling point, lesser manufacturers would put all sorts of cheap controls on their systems in order to fool the buying public.
A true high-quality rig used the best components available. It was obvious from the "feel," and perhaps even moreso to one like myslef, who had the guts to peer inside and see for themselves what it was made of. That won't make the grade to be sold at Walmart these days, but I know the parts inside a detector are but a tiny fraction of the total cost. Spending a few cents more to start wouldn't hurt in propelling your product past the "toy" status.
But I know without stating that at some companies, the bean counters usually win! Draw your own conclusions!
BTW: The T2 manual states the coil is "waterproof," So, reiterating, all new coils should come with this improvement from the factory and not as an extra-charge item. Just my opinion!
-Ed
I'm the Tim Taylor of electronics. Remember "More Power!!" from the Tool Time TV show? For years I've never been afraid to re-engineer almost any comsumer product. Take a great product idea, toss in enough bean-counters, and there's always room for simple overhauls and improvements by just replacing the cheapo parts when they fail with something more robust. Take something as simple as a battery clip or coil connector. Very easy to find much better replacements that end your frustration with parts that can't handle abuse.
I've always held the opinion that what makes the mark between a low-buck and a great product is the quality level of the parts. This can be seen everywhere, but especially in electronics. Back in the hey-days of high-powered stereos, the circuits progressed to the point that they all sounded about the same. The only was to achive distinction was in that silky-smooth control action. That, or the addition of umpteen connection facilities, which usually consisted of the addition of so many extra jacks or buttons and switches that the other guy didn't have. Once this became the selling point, lesser manufacturers would put all sorts of cheap controls on their systems in order to fool the buying public.
A true high-quality rig used the best components available. It was obvious from the "feel," and perhaps even moreso to one like myslef, who had the guts to peer inside and see for themselves what it was made of. That won't make the grade to be sold at Walmart these days, but I know the parts inside a detector are but a tiny fraction of the total cost. Spending a few cents more to start wouldn't hurt in propelling your product past the "toy" status.
But I know without stating that at some companies, the bean counters usually win! Draw your own conclusions!
BTW: The T2 manual states the coil is "waterproof," So, reiterating, all new coils should come with this improvement from the factory and not as an extra-charge item. Just my opinion!
-Ed
If it is like the F 75 upgrade, a seal is put on the screen for better water proofing, grip, battery compartment and springs checked and fixed if necessary, and in general the detector gets a check up. If I had a leaky coil, I would send it back for replacement. HH jim tn