woodchiphustler
New member
The arrival off the AKA Sorex Pro. Stay tuned.
Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.
T MINUS 27 HOURS AND COUNTING
- Thread starter woodchiphustler
- Start date
azsh07
Member
You sent me a PM about mine weeks ago..weird thing was I never got a notice and it never showed up on the home page as a notice...weird....just saw it this morning.
I have used one for a year now...I have hundreds of hours on it. I used to have a ton of videos up on YouTube on how to use it and set it up BUT....a few screwballs were downloading them and using them to sell them. Which is not OK as I did not spends hours and hours making videos for dealers to scab them.
Anyway, just need to give it time and learn all the modes and how they interact with each other. A lot of these interactions are not explained in the manual and it takes many hours and a lot of fiddling to get a handle on the,. However overall it is easy enough to turn on and go. GB usually drives a lot of people nuts as it does not always work the way it seems...but you have a manual GB option so...learn how to use it properly.
When testing inside the house you need to GB first. Do not just turn on and go. VDI is directly interrelated to GB offset so you can screw up your VDI accuracy by having a wrong GB offset. Use ferrite or brick...if neither is available go to manual GB...grab a CD...yes a CD and adjust GB until you get a perfect vertical line. A CD has a VDI angle of 0 or vertical. This will give you a proper VDI reading now on targets.
The detector is deep...deep as a T2 or F75 in boost if you set it up properly and use the proper freq coil. I like the 6x10 at 14khz usually...but the big 9x12 at 7Khz works well for general field hunting.
There is also a hidden menu...first level is explained and allows you to adjust tones for each of the four VDi zones as well as where these zones fall etc. The hidden menu allows you to adjust K filtering which I think is basically a filter speed...there are several options in this menu...although AKA says not to fiddle with it...but I did anyway...wont hurt anything as long as you note where the settings were initially.
If you need help send me a PM...not going to answer questions here.
Also do not ignore the suggestion to re calibrate the coil when temps change...just like the Nautilus machines this one optimizes coil frequency etc per temps. This is explained in the maual but press the F button when turning on and it will go to coil frequ auto Gb mode to set coil parameters.
Good luck. I probably know more about how to use this detector than anyone around accept the Russians and even better than most of them. I tore into this thing as well as the Kondor.
But sadly the plethora of boneheads on the web ruined it. I have been asked to upload all the vids again but no way...too many hours to do so.
scott
I have used one for a year now...I have hundreds of hours on it. I used to have a ton of videos up on YouTube on how to use it and set it up BUT....a few screwballs were downloading them and using them to sell them. Which is not OK as I did not spends hours and hours making videos for dealers to scab them.
Anyway, just need to give it time and learn all the modes and how they interact with each other. A lot of these interactions are not explained in the manual and it takes many hours and a lot of fiddling to get a handle on the,. However overall it is easy enough to turn on and go. GB usually drives a lot of people nuts as it does not always work the way it seems...but you have a manual GB option so...learn how to use it properly.
When testing inside the house you need to GB first. Do not just turn on and go. VDI is directly interrelated to GB offset so you can screw up your VDI accuracy by having a wrong GB offset. Use ferrite or brick...if neither is available go to manual GB...grab a CD...yes a CD and adjust GB until you get a perfect vertical line. A CD has a VDI angle of 0 or vertical. This will give you a proper VDI reading now on targets.
The detector is deep...deep as a T2 or F75 in boost if you set it up properly and use the proper freq coil. I like the 6x10 at 14khz usually...but the big 9x12 at 7Khz works well for general field hunting.
There is also a hidden menu...first level is explained and allows you to adjust tones for each of the four VDi zones as well as where these zones fall etc. The hidden menu allows you to adjust K filtering which I think is basically a filter speed...there are several options in this menu...although AKA says not to fiddle with it...but I did anyway...wont hurt anything as long as you note where the settings were initially.
If you need help send me a PM...not going to answer questions here.
Also do not ignore the suggestion to re calibrate the coil when temps change...just like the Nautilus machines this one optimizes coil frequency etc per temps. This is explained in the maual but press the F button when turning on and it will go to coil frequ auto Gb mode to set coil parameters.
Good luck. I probably know more about how to use this detector than anyone around accept the Russians and even better than most of them. I tore into this thing as well as the Kondor.
But sadly the plethora of boneheads on the web ruined it. I have been asked to upload all the vids again but no way...too many hours to do so.
scott
woodchiphustler
New member
Scott,
Glad to hear from you. I will let you know how things progress. Glad to see your still around.
Glad to hear from you. I will let you know how things progress. Glad to see your still around.
azsh07
Member
When you messaged me actually. Damn bout of Diverticulitis that nearly wiped me out........since I am a disabled vet they transferred me to a VA hospital....whew man...glad I am out.
Anyway..patience. Your gonna have a lot of sounds going on...kind of drives me nuts sometimes...mixed mode is great but in trash...wow....even after 30 years it gets me.
Anyway..patience. Your gonna have a lot of sounds going on...kind of drives me nuts sometimes...mixed mode is great but in trash...wow....even after 30 years it gets me.
woodchiphustler
New member
I needed a new challenge. This is the only one out there I wanted to try. Onward.
azsh07
Member
One note...of many...it is very hot off the dges of the coils...so you will get some high falsing off of iron if swept of the edge sometimes.....but using the all metal audio you know where the target is anyway.
The EMI filter works great and so no need to reduce sens in any EMI situations unless it is super bad.
Hot rock filter works well if you have them...I use a little here due to ground mineral pockets when it is wet.
I do run in disc screen with the disc set around -10....just my settings....I don't need to hear every nail....since there is mixed mode I can hear if the all metal is responding but no disc response and know it is iron. Plus you can quick swap over to the all metal screen.
Too many sounds to run wide open forever...I tried both and found using disc mode was best overall.....but each his own.
I like the polyphony audio for slow hunting...sounds like an explorer kinda...but for everyday use I use standard short tone. Short Tone modulated helps with iron falsing abit but never seen it do a whole lot.
MSF mode is normal hunting and is really best mode. SSF is used for trying to ID bottlecaps....you MUST swing completely off the target and let the processor time to ID before another swing. If you get a swoop looks like the Nike symbol..it is usuallt junk or bottlecaps. I don't hunt many areas with bottlecaps so never use it.
MM mode works well in heavy trash but lose depth. I use it rarely as I can hunt in MSF most times. Make sure you know what mode you are in...if you accidently hit MM it overrides most other settings and if you not notice..it will toss you for a loop.
Only thing I wish was audio volume for the all metal side....wish I could turn it down a bit.
Scott
The EMI filter works great and so no need to reduce sens in any EMI situations unless it is super bad.
Hot rock filter works well if you have them...I use a little here due to ground mineral pockets when it is wet.
I do run in disc screen with the disc set around -10....just my settings....I don't need to hear every nail....since there is mixed mode I can hear if the all metal is responding but no disc response and know it is iron. Plus you can quick swap over to the all metal screen.
Too many sounds to run wide open forever...I tried both and found using disc mode was best overall.....but each his own.
I like the polyphony audio for slow hunting...sounds like an explorer kinda...but for everyday use I use standard short tone. Short Tone modulated helps with iron falsing abit but never seen it do a whole lot.
MSF mode is normal hunting and is really best mode. SSF is used for trying to ID bottlecaps....you MUST swing completely off the target and let the processor time to ID before another swing. If you get a swoop looks like the Nike symbol..it is usuallt junk or bottlecaps. I don't hunt many areas with bottlecaps so never use it.
MM mode works well in heavy trash but lose depth. I use it rarely as I can hunt in MSF most times. Make sure you know what mode you are in...if you accidently hit MM it overrides most other settings and if you not notice..it will toss you for a loop.
Only thing I wish was audio volume for the all metal side....wish I could turn it down a bit.
Scott
woodchiphustler
New member
Have to find my Koss phones. The sound is to sharp using my high end us phones. Man it is fast. Just got out in a hay field . Grass is to high for the small coil. Learned a few things. High pitch signal along the bottom was always large iron. I did manage to read the manual today. Man that thing is tiny.
woodchiphustler
New member
Much like a Goldbug the 6x10 at 14 khz will not detect large silver coins. The large coil at 7khz finds it all.
azsh07
Member
Your midrange targets......should see that the 14 KHz coil even though it is smaller will hit small midrange targets deeper than the large 7Khz coil. Especially on those midrange smaller buttons. Been a while since I did the video on that....but the difference was noticeable.
Now on small silver I never saw a huge difference..kind of tough comparing the smaller coil at 14 to the larger coil at 7 for depth etc...but the 6x10 did fine on dimes etc.
Now I never checked on a silver dollar....might have to go check.
But I need to make sure what VDI you get on the large silver and make sure it is not pushing up to 88 because there is an audio response difference between 87 and 88...not stated in the manual...I found it by asking AKA...you also cannot edit the tone nor the volume etc of VDI 88-90.
If the GB is set slightly positive you will push the VDI range up 1 digit for every degree of + GB offset so big silver will push up into hotrocks or even wrap around into the -89 range. Although for that you would need to have 4 degrees of GB offset + and I would doubt you would run it like that intentionally.
You might try setting it just one degree - of neutral GB and see if it makes a big difference...it should. Although if the ground has a lot of mineral variances any - GB is a pain. But...you can also increase the hotrock reject....kind of a fiddle with this that thing.
I will check large silver on my 6x10....I never did. But go check them small mid range targets......should see a difference.
Now on small silver I never saw a huge difference..kind of tough comparing the smaller coil at 14 to the larger coil at 7 for depth etc...but the 6x10 did fine on dimes etc.
Now I never checked on a silver dollar....might have to go check.
But I need to make sure what VDI you get on the large silver and make sure it is not pushing up to 88 because there is an audio response difference between 87 and 88...not stated in the manual...I found it by asking AKA...you also cannot edit the tone nor the volume etc of VDI 88-90.
If the GB is set slightly positive you will push the VDI range up 1 digit for every degree of + GB offset so big silver will push up into hotrocks or even wrap around into the -89 range. Although for that you would need to have 4 degrees of GB offset + and I would doubt you would run it like that intentionally.
You might try setting it just one degree - of neutral GB and see if it makes a big difference...it should. Although if the ground has a lot of mineral variances any - GB is a pain. But...you can also increase the hotrock reject....kind of a fiddle with this that thing.
I will check large silver on my 6x10....I never did. But go check them small mid range targets......should see a difference.
woodchiphustler
New member
Small targets hit well including reales and cut quarters. I won't get back out until next week.
sandgroper
New member
Hello azsh07/woodchiphustler
Could you explain the working/user difference between AKA Signum mft 7272m and the Sorex Pro please.
Signum
6 x AA, 20hrs
1.25kg
4 tones ?
4 user programs
headphone plug ??
Claims goes deeper than sorex pro
Sore Pro
4 x AA, 30hrs
1.15kg
4 tones
3 independent algorithms
headphone plug at front display
best regards
Could you explain the working/user difference between AKA Signum mft 7272m and the Sorex Pro please.
Signum
6 x AA, 20hrs
1.25kg
4 tones ?
4 user programs
headphone plug ??
Claims goes deeper than sorex pro
Sore Pro
4 x AA, 30hrs
1.15kg
4 tones
3 independent algorithms
headphone plug at front display
best regards
azsh07
Member
I have translated the Signum MFT manual into English....and read it thoroughly. I also have talked quite a bit to some people in Russia about the MFT and differences between that and the Sorex.
From what I have read and been told the biggest difference is depth first of all.....second are the different user modes or algorithms available in the MFT that the Sorex does not have. There are a few minor differences beyond this but not much. One of the improvements is also menu layout is easier to get to some settings but since it is only available in Russian...it may be easier to navigate in quick menus than something deep like on a Whites V3i. Try navigating deep menus in Russian.
SO depth is claimed to be a few inches deeper than the Sorex and from what I read on the Russian forums it seems to be true...just how much we would see I do not know.
I would have to read the manual again on the multiple algorithms but they are designed to help IDing in iron trash as well as different types of large and or small iron in ways that we don't. Remember the Russians look for a lot of iron war relics so they seem to have different ways of dealing with a variety of iron targets both good and bad.
My only interest was for the increased sensitivity.....however I never ordered one as they were sold out this spring and I was told they were going to think about an English version.
Scott
From what I have read and been told the biggest difference is depth first of all.....second are the different user modes or algorithms available in the MFT that the Sorex does not have. There are a few minor differences beyond this but not much. One of the improvements is also menu layout is easier to get to some settings but since it is only available in Russian...it may be easier to navigate in quick menus than something deep like on a Whites V3i. Try navigating deep menus in Russian.
SO depth is claimed to be a few inches deeper than the Sorex and from what I read on the Russian forums it seems to be true...just how much we would see I do not know.
I would have to read the manual again on the multiple algorithms but they are designed to help IDing in iron trash as well as different types of large and or small iron in ways that we don't. Remember the Russians look for a lot of iron war relics so they seem to have different ways of dealing with a variety of iron targets both good and bad.
My only interest was for the increased sensitivity.....however I never ordered one as they were sold out this spring and I was told they were going to think about an English version.
Scott